Slowly making a slow car fast, an S4 story
#26
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#27
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Picked up a Momo Course earlier this week. It was a toss up between this and the Montecarlo but I found this one for a good price. Plus it was made in 94 which makes it older then me and something somebody could have installed when the car was still relatively new.
#28
BroPunzel Performance Inc
they were 38 offset around. 18x9 front 245/40zr18 (13LBS) and the rears where 18x11 325/35R18 (15.6 LBS)
Wheels if I remember correct were
BSA MONOBLOCK WHEELS
Closer pic of wheels mounted with slight fender roll. The thunders didn't need to be rolled I did it as a precaution because the car made a lot of power (812whp on e85) and it tucked hard even though I had 12K coilovers in the rear.
Wheels if I remember correct were
BSA MONOBLOCK WHEELS
Closer pic of wheels mounted with slight fender roll. The thunders didn't need to be rolled I did it as a precaution because the car made a lot of power (812whp on e85) and it tucked hard even though I had 12K coilovers in the rear.
#30
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I’ll probably stick with the 295s. My 10.5 +22 stock out 10mm farther then your 11s. Plus being a narrower wheel the sidewalk will bulge out more and R888rs already run wide. I also don’t want to run any more then a 30mm over. That’s and the front tires have a slight stretch and if the tears are stuffed on there I think it’ll look off. Thanks for the info though. You helped me make my decision.
#31
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Tried to start the car today. Starts, runs for about 3 seconds, then dies. Did a little testing and the fuel pump wasn’t getting power with the key on but when I move the MAF it does turn on. Somewhere in my thinning I lost the ignition on power coming out of the computer to the relay. My guess is in the starter interrupt wiring. To fix the issue I just jumped power directly at the relay. Starts and runs fine now. The only problem is as long as the key is in the on position the fuel pump is running. Simple fix though with another relay and a fuel pump switch like a race car. That could even work for anti theft. It’s only temporary until I rewire everything for the Haltech.
This year at Sema Turbosmart released their new e-waistegate. I’m really excited about it as it means I don’t need to run the CO2 tank for the wastegates. They don’t release until December or January so I still don’t know about price yet. As Christmas approaches I think my present to myself will be the EFR 9274 with the Turbosource variable A/R turbine housing. Isn’t the stuff we can do with turbo technology amazing!
This year at Sema Turbosmart released their new e-waistegate. I’m really excited about it as it means I don’t need to run the CO2 tank for the wastegates. They don’t release until December or January so I still don’t know about price yet. As Christmas approaches I think my present to myself will be the EFR 9274 with the Turbosource variable A/R turbine housing. Isn’t the stuff we can do with turbo technology amazing!
#32
BroPunzel Performance Inc
I’ll probably stick with the 295s. My 10.5 +22 stock out 10mm farther then your 11s. Plus being a narrower wheel the sidewalk will bulge out more and R888rs already run wide. I also don’t want to run any more then a 30mm over. That’s and the front tires have a slight stretch and if the tears are stuffed on there I think it’ll look off. Thanks for the info though. You helped me make my decision.
#34
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Got a small box of goodies today. Hawk HP+ pads for the 300zx calipers. If I’m lucky I’ll have the brackets done by this weekend. Currently working on ceramic coating the wheels. Hopefully that will help keep the white wheels nice lol.
#37
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Finished ceramic coating the wheels. Can’t say they are any more shiny then before being as they where brand new haha. Although that was never the point. This should make the wheels much easier to clean but only time will tell.
Too much to do and never enough money haha. Currently waiting on the metal for my brake caliper brackets to show up on Thursday. I’m also polishing up the FTP lenses and prepping them for LED lights similar to the JDM ones, only brighter. Part of me want to do a projector retrofit but I’ve done them before and it wasn’t a fun time.
Recently I’ve been playing around with the new Haltech IC-7 software that just came out. It’s a really cool dash and I can’t wait to get one. The one thing I really wish it did is allow for additional inputs that trigger indicator lights at the top. Like having a light come on when I turn off traction control or when launch control is engaged. Oh well. Maybe I’ll be able to figure it out once I have it and the ecu installed.
Little update on my Retro-Spec dash I ordered. Still haven’t gotten it. They are “working on it” and “will update me in the next day or two” and come Monday that will have been 3 weeks ago. Needless to say I am less then thrilled.
Too much to do and never enough money haha. Currently waiting on the metal for my brake caliper brackets to show up on Thursday. I’m also polishing up the FTP lenses and prepping them for LED lights similar to the JDM ones, only brighter. Part of me want to do a projector retrofit but I’ve done them before and it wasn’t a fun time.
Recently I’ve been playing around with the new Haltech IC-7 software that just came out. It’s a really cool dash and I can’t wait to get one. The one thing I really wish it did is allow for additional inputs that trigger indicator lights at the top. Like having a light come on when I turn off traction control or when launch control is engaged. Oh well. Maybe I’ll be able to figure it out once I have it and the ecu installed.
Little update on my Retro-Spec dash I ordered. Still haven’t gotten it. They are “working on it” and “will update me in the next day or two” and come Monday that will have been 3 weeks ago. Needless to say I am less then thrilled.
#38
I would recommend ceramic coating the wheels after you mount the tires. If you ceramic coat the wheels before mounting the tires, the weights might not stick on the barrels.
#39
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Little late for that lol. Oh well I guess I’ll find out. At least for the fronts they didn’t even need weights.
#42
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#44
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I finally have brake caliper brackets! I decided to build them myself to test if the calipers will even work at all.
Currently painting them. Tomorrow is the final mounting and bleed the front brakes. Maybe if I’m lucky I can even take it for a drive.
Currently painting them. Tomorrow is the final mounting and bleed the front brakes. Maybe if I’m lucky I can even take it for a drive.
Last edited by FCSpoolyBoi; 12-08-19 at 10:13 AM.
#45
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Got everything painted and took it for a test drive. It’ll be nice once I iron a few things out. The toe is way off because I still need to chop just a little more off of the tie rods. I was getting a rattle from the front right corner but upon further inspection I think it was just the hood vents hitting on the new strut tower brace. It makes it hard to track down what’s causing what when you put a lot of new parts on all at once lol. I also need to bleed the brakes some more. If I have time tomorrow I’ll take it on another test drive. Still working on burning off the paint on the rotors but I couldn’t resist taking some pics. Overall I’d say it was a success. Evo X 14 inch disks with 300zx TT 40mm calipers.
#46
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Hey, look what showed up today! The S5 carbon fiber center console from Retro-Spec and boy is it nice. I almost don’t want to cut into it to fit switches and gauges.
#48
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I decided that right now I would be better off buying things that help me finish the brakes and suspension instead of the turbo. So I ordered a few things like 295/30r18 toyo r888r, hawk hp+ pads, shine 30mm rear overs, T2 cv axles, Momo steering wheel hub, evo 10 rear brake rotors, Audi S4 calipers, gktech hydro, and a carbon fiber gauge cluster surround.
The full brake setup will be Evo 10 front rotors with 300zx calipers and HP+ pads. For the rear it’s Evo 10 rear rotors. T2 front calipers for the foot brake with Audi S4 calipers for the hydro and mechanical parking brake that will be converted to electric since the gktech hydro uses the stock hand brake. The master cylinder is a Subaru 1 1/16 with wilwood proportioning valve for the rear. Big brakes for around 1/3 of the big brake price and all with parts available at local parts stores (aside from the hawk pads haha).
I’m getting pretty close to being able to focus on the motor. I didn’t want to be one of those peril that build a 700hp car and try to run it on stock diff and brakes because frankly that’s how you die haha. So I wanted to make sure the car was prepared before I started making power with it. Plus it’ll make it more enjoyable to drive in the meantime. Not that it wasn’t already fun to begin with haha. I think I just need the electric ebrake, new coilovers, and to finish the 8.8 install. The coilovers that came on the car are in really poor condition and are too soft for my liking. I was planning on getting some BC’s with Swift springs. The 8.8 is also necessary as with the sticky 295s I feel like I’m going to break the welded NA diff haha. I also plan on changing the gear ratio to 4.5 or 4.88 to help with acceleration without hurting highway cruising too much. Then I can swap them to something like 3.9 once the new motors in.
I passed a big milestone with the car recently. Not including the price of the car, I’ve spent over $10,000 on parts. They say the first 10,000 is always the hardest to spend and that the next 20,000-30,000 spends really easy haha. But for real I probably have about another $25,000 worth of work I want to do to it.
The full brake setup will be Evo 10 front rotors with 300zx calipers and HP+ pads. For the rear it’s Evo 10 rear rotors. T2 front calipers for the foot brake with Audi S4 calipers for the hydro and mechanical parking brake that will be converted to electric since the gktech hydro uses the stock hand brake. The master cylinder is a Subaru 1 1/16 with wilwood proportioning valve for the rear. Big brakes for around 1/3 of the big brake price and all with parts available at local parts stores (aside from the hawk pads haha).
I’m getting pretty close to being able to focus on the motor. I didn’t want to be one of those peril that build a 700hp car and try to run it on stock diff and brakes because frankly that’s how you die haha. So I wanted to make sure the car was prepared before I started making power with it. Plus it’ll make it more enjoyable to drive in the meantime. Not that it wasn’t already fun to begin with haha. I think I just need the electric ebrake, new coilovers, and to finish the 8.8 install. The coilovers that came on the car are in really poor condition and are too soft for my liking. I was planning on getting some BC’s with Swift springs. The 8.8 is also necessary as with the sticky 295s I feel like I’m going to break the welded NA diff haha. I also plan on changing the gear ratio to 4.5 or 4.88 to help with acceleration without hurting highway cruising too much. Then I can swap them to something like 3.9 once the new motors in.
I passed a big milestone with the car recently. Not including the price of the car, I’ve spent over $10,000 on parts. They say the first 10,000 is always the hardest to spend and that the next 20,000-30,000 spends really easy haha. But for real I probably have about another $25,000 worth of work I want to do to it.
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cleanseven (01-22-20)
#50
BroPunzel Performance Inc
I decided that right now I would be better off buying things that help me finish the brakes and suspension instead of the turbo. So I ordered a few things like 295/30r18 toyo r888r, hawk hp+ pads, shine 30mm rear overs, T2 cv axles, Momo steering wheel hub, evo 10 rear brake rotors, Audi S4 calipers, gktech hydro, and a carbon fiber gauge cluster surround.
The full brake setup will be Evo 10 front rotors with 300zx calipers and HP+ pads. For the rear it’s Evo 10 rear rotors. T2 front calipers for the foot brake with Audi S4 calipers for the hydro and mechanical parking brake that will be converted to electric since the gktech hydro uses the stock hand brake. The master cylinder is a Subaru 1 1/16 with wilwood proportioning valve for the rear. Big brakes for around 1/3 of the big brake price and all with parts available at local parts stores (aside from the hawk pads haha).
I’m getting pretty close to being able to focus on the motor. I didn’t want to be one of those peril that build a 700hp car and try to run it on stock diff and brakes because frankly that’s how you die haha. So I wanted to make sure the car was prepared before I started making power with it. Plus it’ll make it more enjoyable to drive in the meantime. Not that it wasn’t already fun to begin with haha. I think I just need the electric ebrake, new coilovers, and to finish the 8.8 install. The coilovers that came on the car are in really poor condition and are too soft for my liking. I was planning on getting some BC’s with Swift springs. The 8.8 is also necessary as with the sticky 295s I feel like I’m going to break the welded NA diff haha. I also plan on changing the gear ratio to 4.5 or 4.88 to help with acceleration without hurting highway cruising too much. Then I can swap them to something like 3.9 once the new motors in.
I passed a big milestone with the car recently. Not including the price of the car, I’ve spent over $10,000 on parts. They say the first 10,000 is always the hardest to spend and that the next 20,000-30,000 spends really easy haha. But for real I probably have about another $25,000 worth of work I want to do to it.
The full brake setup will be Evo 10 front rotors with 300zx calipers and HP+ pads. For the rear it’s Evo 10 rear rotors. T2 front calipers for the foot brake with Audi S4 calipers for the hydro and mechanical parking brake that will be converted to electric since the gktech hydro uses the stock hand brake. The master cylinder is a Subaru 1 1/16 with wilwood proportioning valve for the rear. Big brakes for around 1/3 of the big brake price and all with parts available at local parts stores (aside from the hawk pads haha).
I’m getting pretty close to being able to focus on the motor. I didn’t want to be one of those peril that build a 700hp car and try to run it on stock diff and brakes because frankly that’s how you die haha. So I wanted to make sure the car was prepared before I started making power with it. Plus it’ll make it more enjoyable to drive in the meantime. Not that it wasn’t already fun to begin with haha. I think I just need the electric ebrake, new coilovers, and to finish the 8.8 install. The coilovers that came on the car are in really poor condition and are too soft for my liking. I was planning on getting some BC’s with Swift springs. The 8.8 is also necessary as with the sticky 295s I feel like I’m going to break the welded NA diff haha. I also plan on changing the gear ratio to 4.5 or 4.88 to help with acceleration without hurting highway cruising too much. Then I can swap them to something like 3.9 once the new motors in.
I passed a big milestone with the car recently. Not including the price of the car, I’ve spent over $10,000 on parts. They say the first 10,000 is always the hardest to spend and that the next 20,000-30,000 spends really easy haha. But for real I probably have about another $25,000 worth of work I want to do to it.