SCCA Build. Also i Need of parts!
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SCCA Build. Also i Need of parts!
Im in the process of turning a 1987 T2 into a fun track car. My goal is to build an all around fun car with a full race day setup excluding the Engnine.
I have an S5 T2 motor that i purchased from a gentleman in Sarasota, FL. Real cool guy he gave me a great deal on a beautiful motor.
My goal for the motor is a reliable 350whp. The car has a title and all so i will be driving it on the rds.
I also wouldnt mind those with information on chiming in on what mods are best for an auto cross/circuit car.... Im no pro and im learning as i go.
Thanks for any input, And im not rich so the car wont be done in a month but i will be done in under 9days is my goal!
**NOTE: I am always look for parts for the car! So if you have anything i could use please let me know!
Parts in need:
EMS, FPR, Fuel Pump,
Injectors, Downpipe for stock turbo.
Exhaust. Radiator, E-Fan, Oil Cooler,
Stock coils or Aftermarket, T2 hood.
After Market suspension parts.
Ok so about the motor
S5 T2 13bt
Street ported
Water jackets opened up on spark plug side.
Port and Polished throttle body
Engine also came with an Atkins Master Rebuild Kit and A
T2 Transmission.
I have an S5 T2 motor that i purchased from a gentleman in Sarasota, FL. Real cool guy he gave me a great deal on a beautiful motor.
My goal for the motor is a reliable 350whp. The car has a title and all so i will be driving it on the rds.
I also wouldnt mind those with information on chiming in on what mods are best for an auto cross/circuit car.... Im no pro and im learning as i go.
Thanks for any input, And im not rich so the car wont be done in a month but i will be done in under 9days is my goal!
**NOTE: I am always look for parts for the car! So if you have anything i could use please let me know!
Parts in need:
EMS, FPR, Fuel Pump,
Injectors, Downpipe for stock turbo.
Exhaust. Radiator, E-Fan, Oil Cooler,
Stock coils or Aftermarket, T2 hood.
After Market suspension parts.
Ok so about the motor
S5 T2 13bt
Street ported
Water jackets opened up on spark plug side.
Port and Polished throttle body
Engine also came with an Atkins Master Rebuild Kit and A
T2 Transmission.
#4
dont kill the cones
I'm kinda setting up my car for autox also. The tip I would give you is get ahold of an SCCA rule book and build you car for the class you want to run. I made the mistake of doing a street port on my car which bumped me up into a class I could be competitive in. You have the perfect blank canvas to start with though.
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Im going to def do that since you said that. I actually have a street port, plus mine is gutted and will have a roll cage eventually.... I hope i dont get thrown into a really bad class and just get my butt handed to me. Ive never done auto x but have always wanted to.
Thanks
Thanks
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Update
Got in some new parts the last couple of days.
Purchased a brand new aftermarket drive shaft..
Also got the stock S5 t2 flywheel resurface and the gentleman did a great job on it.
He also put a 8 a/n fitting on the front cover for the turbo drain line...
Does anyone know the Thread size and pattern for the turbo oil feed line?
Need New Part!!
Need S4 Fuel Rails!
Also an FPR.
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Energy master bushing kit was also purchased. Front end bushings were put on too...
Im looking into coilovers, what setups are guys running for the FC that works well?
Im looking into coilovers, what setups are guys running for the FC that works well?
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#10
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No offense, but you are not capable of maxxing out a stock chassis right now and as you gain experience, you won't have to ask advice because you'll know what needs doing.
Putting a car on track is enormously (and usually, unexpectedly) expensive...keep a close eye on your expenses (food, travel, lodging...everything) and you'll see.
There is no point in spending on hardware that you haven't the experience to utilize, especially if money is limited.
Your ability (non-existent at the moment) to evaluate and set up a chassis is the most important thing to develop right now...the car is actually much less important in the beginning stages.
The second most important thing is to learn to drive what ya got.
Chances are you will never field the top dog vehicle, someone always has better **** and more money. Winners win with inferior kit because they realize that they are the most important part of the equation and totally believe in themselves. They don't get psyched because a competitor seems to have better equipment.
You need seat time more than coilovers.
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agreed, most important part in a track car is the driver. i give you an example. we're running a miata this year. its actually quite a simple car, its all stock, except these magic shocks, expensive diff, and the safety stuff. we put it on Rotas, and hoosiers. its a PTE/TTE car (NASA)
driver number 1 runs a 1:44.8 at Laguna, which is half second off the lap record for the class.
driver number 2 is trying to break 1:50, and he built the car.
study the rule book, build a car for the slowest class you can, and get out there!
driver number 1 runs a 1:44.8 at Laguna, which is half second off the lap record for the class.
driver number 2 is trying to break 1:50, and he built the car.
study the rule book, build a car for the slowest class you can, and get out there!
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Don't touch the car, buy good tires and spend the rest on track time.
No offense, but you are not capable of maxxing out a stock chassis right now and as you gain experience, you won't have to ask advice because you'll know what needs doing.
Putting a car on track is enormously (and usually, unexpectedly) expensive...keep a close eye on your expenses (food, travel, lodging...everything) and you'll see.
There is no point in spending on hardware that you haven't the experience to utilize, especially if money is limited.
Your ability (non-existent at the moment) to evaluate and set up a chassis is the most important thing to develop right now...the car is actually much less important in the beginning stages.
The second most important thing is to learn to drive what ya got.
Chances are you will never field the top dog vehicle, someone always has better **** and more money. Winners win with inferior kit because they realize that they are the most important part of the equation and totally believe in themselves. They don't get psyched because a competitor seems to have better equipment.
You need seat time more than coilovers.
No offense, but you are not capable of maxxing out a stock chassis right now and as you gain experience, you won't have to ask advice because you'll know what needs doing.
Putting a car on track is enormously (and usually, unexpectedly) expensive...keep a close eye on your expenses (food, travel, lodging...everything) and you'll see.
There is no point in spending on hardware that you haven't the experience to utilize, especially if money is limited.
Your ability (non-existent at the moment) to evaluate and set up a chassis is the most important thing to develop right now...the car is actually much less important in the beginning stages.
The second most important thing is to learn to drive what ya got.
Chances are you will never field the top dog vehicle, someone always has better **** and more money. Winners win with inferior kit because they realize that they are the most important part of the equation and totally believe in themselves. They don't get psyched because a competitor seems to have better equipment.
You need seat time more than coilovers.
But i do understand that my skills dont exist. I appreciate your input though.
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agreed, most important part in a track car is the driver. i give you an example. we're running a miata this year. its actually quite a simple car, its all stock, except these magic shocks, expensive diff, and the safety stuff. we put it on Rotas, and hoosiers. its a PTE/TTE car (NASA)
driver number 1 runs a 1:44.8 at Laguna, which is half second off the lap record for the class.
driver number 2 is trying to break 1:50, and he built the car.
study the rule book, build a car for the slowest class you can, and get out there!
driver number 1 runs a 1:44.8 at Laguna, which is half second off the lap record for the class.
driver number 2 is trying to break 1:50, and he built the car.
study the rule book, build a car for the slowest class you can, and get out there!
Well im looking to try and get out there by march 22nd.
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among the racers, the Ground control or AWR setups, are pretty popular, it lets you run a good shock, which is the important part. the spring and hardware are just springs and hardware...
but yes, you want seat time, without having to work on the car at the track. later you will play with the suspension at the track, but ideally that is about it.
there is a hierarchy there though, the people doing it wrong will spend the whole weekend in the pits working on the car, and then the next step up are people who hardly touch the car, then you work on the suspension, and then the holy grail are the people that have people to vacuum the inside of the car between sessions. we've been racing for more than a decade and we play with the suspension a little, and stare with awe and wonder at the people vacuuming their car
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And yes i plan on being able to take the car out on the streets
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for starters, you just want something simple, and safe. so new bearings, fresh brakes. fix anything broken. for springs/shocks, a real race car will skip the chinese/ebay stuff, as its junk. so you could either find some decent shocks, and run it almost stock, or go for a race setup.
among the racers, the Ground control or AWR setups, are pretty popular, it lets you run a good shock, which is the important part. the spring and hardware are just springs and hardware...
but yes, you want seat time, without having to work on the car at the track. later you will play with the suspension at the track, but ideally that is about it.
there is a hierarchy there though, the people doing it wrong will spend the whole weekend in the pits working on the car, and then the next step up are people who hardly touch the car, then you work on the suspension, and then the holy grail are the people that have people to vacuum the inside of the car between sessions. we've been racing for more than a decade and we play with the suspension a little, and stare with awe and wonder at the people vacuuming their car
among the racers, the Ground control or AWR setups, are pretty popular, it lets you run a good shock, which is the important part. the spring and hardware are just springs and hardware...
but yes, you want seat time, without having to work on the car at the track. later you will play with the suspension at the track, but ideally that is about it.
there is a hierarchy there though, the people doing it wrong will spend the whole weekend in the pits working on the car, and then the next step up are people who hardly touch the car, then you work on the suspension, and then the holy grail are the people that have people to vacuum the inside of the car between sessions. we've been racing for more than a decade and we play with the suspension a little, and stare with awe and wonder at the people vacuuming their car
I would hate to go to a track day and just completely work on the car outside of suspension tuning... I mean i do plan on tuning the computer on the car while at the track though. But not actually have to fix things... Thats part of the reason im keeping the boost low.
LoL Im sure ill stare too. Im going into this with the idea that ill learn and grow. And the FUN factor. If im not enjoying it then why do it. So losing for a while wont hurt.
#19
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for starters, you just want something simple, and safe... for springs/shocks, a real race car will skip the chinese/ebay stuff, as its junk. so you could either find some decent shocks, and run it almost stock, or go for a race setup.
but yes, you want seat time, without having to work on the car at the track. later you will play with the suspension at the track, but ideally that is about it.
but yes, you want seat time, without having to work on the car at the track. later you will play with the suspension at the track, but ideally that is about it.
You paid for a multitude of adjustments with a billion possible combinations...and 90% are wrong. It's more likely your new Ohlins set up would be worse than stock without knowledgeable setup.
I think you'll find the first couple of track experiences will be sensory overload, you won't have time/energy to screw with suspension.
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the suspension tuning bit is true as well, half the point is to add adjustability, and then step 2 is figuring out what each thing does, which takes time.
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The injectors came in.
Also got a brand new 3 bar map sensor for $17 bucks... I was at advance auto asking about the map sensor and when I look it up on Google in my phone I find this one... Funny because their cheapest was $65...
Also took a photo of my uncles garage with my cousins 500whp FC... Everything is rotary... Family Tradition. Lol
Seriously thanks for the input guys. I've decided to go with the ground control suspension. I like the idea of picking the shocks best for me in the future...
Should I also get camber plates?
Also got a brand new 3 bar map sensor for $17 bucks... I was at advance auto asking about the map sensor and when I look it up on Google in my phone I find this one... Funny because their cheapest was $65...
Also took a photo of my uncles garage with my cousins 500whp FC... Everything is rotary... Family Tradition. Lol
Seriously thanks for the input guys. I've decided to go with the ground control suspension. I like the idea of picking the shocks best for me in the future...
Should I also get camber plates?
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yeah, you want more negative camber in the front
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So I I'm having a problem.. The transmission mount does bolt up to the bushings on the transmission...
Do I have the wrong bushings?
The mount is for 87 s 4 T2
I'm attaching some pics.
Do I have the wrong bushings?
The mount is for 87 s 4 T2
I'm attaching some pics.