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Welcome to this build thread,
I hope most of y'all will die of ***** and giggles when I'll be scatching my head on how to solve a easy problem. I'll try and be consistent with the updates.
On a more serious note, I am a young college student, located in Germany, that just bought a s5 turbo off a trailer. I used to have a NA S4 but just got tired of having no power and I had to leave for Mexico for my gap year and the compression started to get low on the rear rotor. Plus, i gotta pretty nice deal when I sold it.
I left my S4 completely stock because I had no money left at 18 for mods, so I am a newbie when it comes to modifying these cars. I'll gladly appreciate the tips/ words of wisdom from y'all.
Anyways, what I am working with:
S5 T2 Coupe
German Market Car
60.000 miles
Doesn't run or drive (sat for 15 years in a barn)
Still kinda broke
Paid around 7.900 USD (The market for them is so crazy here)
Not a lot of rust
Think it has the factory LSD
Factory "bodykit" sort of? It has the performance lip and the side skirts look meaner
Phase 1: Making it drive
Full Cleanup
New Suspension: K-Sport, Neomax or D2's (only legal one's in Germany)
New catback and possibaly also a 200 cell downpipe if emisions are bad, only option is FOX here
FULL Service, I am talking everything
ATF Treatment: how much should i put in there?
Fuel tank dropped and cleaned
New brakes, steal brakelines: have no idea what brake kit or even brakes i should get
New Air filter: Greddy or HKS
New Tires: pretty good idea what i want to get
New Bushings: probably energy one's idk
Phase 2: Making it nice
New ECU: stock is a n380, what can I run? I've heard that all modded ECU can work on S5's
Before y'all comment; yes I am mostly aware of the supporting mods I have to do: https://fc3spro.com/TECH/FM2W/power.htm
New Wheels is going to be difficult here in Germany
Manual Steering/ PS delete
Rear Stear delete
I will not be deleting emisions , or at least not fully
Possible rebuit and mild port
Goal is about 250-280hp
I still need a garage to work on it during the winter, only got a dorm atm, so if anybody knowns someone, please lmk!
That's all I got at the moment, will be getting smarter by reading stuff.
I will still have a but load of questions, y'all better be prepared to hear sum
Nice start, I don't think you did bad on the price considering how nice and complete the car looks.
You can pull spark plugs and feed atf into the chamber to sit. You can also feed some down into the intake so the other side of the chamber gets to soaking too.
Have you tried to manually spin the engine over to see if it's locked up?
Thanks for the positive comments! Sadly, I am quiet busy atm and don’t know when I’ll be actually able to start the project, weather also is beneath freezing here, sure doesn’t make stuff easy.
Also, I forgot to mention, I would like to upgrade the radiator and install an efan. Sadly, there are no Tauruses or Quests here where I can just rip it off and install it in the Rex. Any other suggestions? Would a 55 dollar amazon efan do the same job? Or what efans do you know of that are similar in size to the rx7’s and come off European cars?
Stick with the stock fan clutch. Nearly no aftermarket e-fan can match its performance, and for the most part they're extremely reliable. It also keeps things simple.
Also, post some more pictures when you get it cleaned up! Excited to see where you take this one.
Hey guys,
been a long time since i posted. I finally got a place where i can wrench on my stuff without being bothered.
So here are some things i got done on my checklist:
-no rust in the tank, fuel pump looks new.
-no fluid leeks of any sort
-fluids looked good (still going to replace them)
-new air filter old one was still good, but decided to replace anyway
-engine spins very freely by hand on the alternator bolt, no hiccups but I barely feel any compression even tho the sparkplugs are still in (is this normal?)
-sparkplugs look new, havent tested them yet
-i need a new fuel filter
-brakes are hella crusty
-belts look like they are going to snap any moment and sound crusty
-will still do the atf trick before startup
-all the lights work, i have a broken fuse or relay here and there (turn signals, horn, power windows etc.. nun too crazy)
How can i check if the OMP is still working once i get the car running?
Oh and i have a european s5 t2, and i found a bunch of labels of some other ecu that dont make quiet sense to me because i should have a n380 on my car from factory.