Rob's Weekend Special (picture heavy)
02-16-14, 02:34 PM
#27
I have seen threads explaining that you can utilizing a S4 intake manifold that uses exhaust back pressure at high rpms. I also know that I could feasibly "jam" the ports open, but that will cause the low end to suffer. With my summer rebuild looming on the horizon and my plans to boost the engine post-rebuild, I have not given the issue too much thought. It is my understanding that the "extra" pressure from the turbocharger will be enough to activate the solenoids.
02-18-14, 06:14 PM
#28
Absolutely nothing at the moment. I have seen threads explaining that you can utilizing a S4 intake manifold that uses exhaust back pressure at high rpms. I also know that I could feasibly "jam" the ports open, but that will cause the low end to suffer.
With my summer rebuild looming on the horizon and my plans to boost the engine post-rebuild, I have not given the issue too much thought. It is my understanding that the "extra" pressure from the turbocharger will be enough to activate the solenoids.
I have seen threads explaining that you can utilizing a S4 intake manifold that uses exhaust back pressure at high rpms. I also know that I could feasibly "jam" the ports open, but that will cause the low end to suffer. With my summer rebuild looming on the horizon and my plans to boost the engine post-rebuild, I have not given the issue too much thought. It is my understanding that the "extra" pressure from the turbocharger will be enough to activate the solenoids.
03-04-14, 05:28 AM
#33
Took a weekend off from the build and went up to VIS for Drift Your Pants Off. Had a great time.
The Bad News: I drove to work yesterday just fine. No strange noises. Parked the car at work and when I went to drive home: Loud click from the starter...Engine won't turn over.
Exhaustive searching of the forums has returned stater, battery, ignition switch, engine grounds, or clutch switch as the culprit. So I did the following last night.
1. Checked/Tested/Replaced Duralast battery with Red Top Optima. (Been meaning to for a while)
2. Noticed there wasn't even minimal spark when I connected the new battery. Am I right in thinking there is a ground fault based on that?
3. Pulled starter. Hooked it to the Optima directly. Clunked. Starter gear spun but did not move into position fully.
Can't work on the car until Thursday because of the weather. So here I sit; waiting for a new starter to arrive so that I can troubleshoot the issue further.
The Bad News: I drove to work yesterday just fine. No strange noises. Parked the car at work and when I went to drive home: Loud click from the starter...Engine won't turn over.
Exhaustive searching of the forums has returned stater, battery, ignition switch, engine grounds, or clutch switch as the culprit. So I did the following last night.
1. Checked/Tested/Replaced Duralast battery with Red Top Optima. (Been meaning to for a while)
2. Noticed there wasn't even minimal spark when I connected the new battery. Am I right in thinking there is a ground fault based on that?
3. Pulled starter. Hooked it to the Optima directly. Clunked. Starter gear spun but did not move into position fully.
Can't work on the car until Thursday because of the weather. So here I sit; waiting for a new starter to arrive so that I can troubleshoot the issue further.
03-08-14, 06:52 AM
#35
I actually remembered to grab my vert rims on the way out of the house this morning. Checklist for the today:
1. Get the FC started
2. Swap rubber of OE rims to Vert rims
3. Return old starter for Core.
4. (If there is time) Clean up Garret T28 and remove GTiR Manifold
1. Get the FC started
2. Swap rubber of OE rims to Vert rims
3. Return old starter for Core.
4. (If there is time) Clean up Garret T28 and remove GTiR Manifold
03-08-14, 07:11 PM
#36
Or complete none of this. It would appear that I have fault in the harness somewhere. I have checked all the voltage and resistance levels on the starter. Only clear indicator is that the battery drops to 10 volts when I engage the starter. All my engine grounds are good. Clutch switch and start cut off relay are working.
03-09-14, 06:32 AM
#37
I found this while searching last night:
RX7 refuses to start and makes funny noises at me (video)... - RX7Club.com
Run a 12v straight from the ignition switch to the starter.I know it's a post about 3rd gens but the principle is the same.
I know that is a simplistic diagram, but this is what I am proposing.
RX7 refuses to start and makes funny noises at me (video)... - RX7Club.com
Run a 12v straight from the ignition switch to the starter.I know it's a post about 3rd gens but the principle is the same.
I know that is a simplistic diagram, but this is what I am proposing.
03-09-14, 02:52 PM
#40
The FC is down for the count. After spinning the motor by hand after the starter died, the motor now refuses to budge. Used a scope and it appears the rotors have carbon locked to the housings. That's all she wrote. Going to look at an S4 tomorrow night as a staging platform for continuing the build.
03-10-14, 02:58 AM
#46
I know. 
And I thought I was being too harsh on the motor. Turns out it wasn't enough.
The current plan is to drive the S4 while I rebuild the S5 engine. I had a bit of cancer on the floor pans and frame rails of the S5 from its time in Michigan. Depending on the state of this S4 I may do a full swap over and sell off the bits of the S5 I don't need to recoup some money.
It was a good time. Hopefully I will be able to do a bit of sliding next time. I don't mind playing photographer, but I wanted to go out there so bad.
And I thought I was being too harsh on the motor. Turns out it wasn't enough.
Don't give up on it, work to free it and make it live, at least till your able to rebuild the motor
The photos from VIR the other weekend? I missed the event saddly
03-11-14, 12:26 AM
#47
We had something at piedmont dragway in greensboro this past weekend, and silverdragon had a event at ncccar also.
fuuuuuuuuuuck rust. lets see pics of this new ride now.
The current plan is to drive the S4 while I rebuild the S5 engine. I had a bit of cancer on the floor pans and frame rails of the S5 from its time in Michigan. Depending on the state of this S4 I may do a full swap over and sell off the bits of the S5 I don't need to recoup some money.