Rob's Weekend Special (picture heavy)

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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 11:07 PM
  #26  
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so what are you doing for aux port and vdi actuation without the air pump to pressurize the solenoids?
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Old Feb 16, 2014 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by SpikeDerailed
so what are you doing for aux port and vdi actuation without the air pump to pressurize the solenoids?
Absolutely nothing at the moment. I have seen threads explaining that you can utilizing a S4 intake manifold that uses exhaust back pressure at high rpms. I also know that I could feasibly "jam" the ports open, but that will cause the low end to suffer.

With my summer rebuild looming on the horizon and my plans to boost the engine post-rebuild, I have not given the issue too much thought. It is my understanding that the "extra" pressure from the turbocharger will be enough to activate the solenoids.
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by the_mute
Absolutely nothing at the moment. I have seen threads explaining that you can utilizing a S4 intake manifold that uses exhaust back pressure at high rpms. I also know that I could feasibly "jam" the ports open, but that will cause the low end to suffer.

With my summer rebuild looming on the horizon and my plans to boost the engine post-rebuild, I have not given the issue too much thought. It is my understanding that the "extra" pressure from the turbocharger will be enough to activate the solenoids.
The N/A lim is considerably bulkier than the tii unit, if you're going to turbo the factory turbo and exhaust manifold wont clear the na intake. The stuff thats designed to make the n/a work better really become moot after a turbo is slapped on anyway. I vote just use the tii intake setup ported for 6port blocks. Any moderate turbo will spool quick on a 9.7:1 engine anyway.
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Old Feb 19, 2014 | 07:51 PM
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My S4 LCA came today. Thanks 1NSIGHT, you came to my rescue after I bought S5's and realized that was a complete waste of money.
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Old Feb 20, 2014 | 08:53 AM
  #30  
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S4 arms are where its at all day long.
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Old Feb 23, 2014 | 12:51 AM
  #31  
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Polyurethane trans mounts and OMP delete plate came in today. If I am awake enough tomorrow I will be installing them around noon.
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Old Feb 23, 2014 | 08:53 AM
  #32  
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Wake up sunshine. I've been up for almost 5 hrs now (since 2AM) there's no excuses for you! :p
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 05:28 AM
  #33  
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Took a weekend off from the build and went up to VIS for Drift Your Pants Off. Had a great time.


The Bad News: I drove to work yesterday just fine. No strange noises. Parked the car at work and when I went to drive home: Loud click from the starter...Engine won't turn over.

Exhaustive searching of the forums has returned stater, battery, ignition switch, engine grounds, or clutch switch as the culprit. So I did the following last night.

1. Checked/Tested/Replaced Duralast battery with Red Top Optima. (Been meaning to for a while)

2. Noticed there wasn't even minimal spark when I connected the new battery. Am I right in thinking there is a ground fault based on that?

3. Pulled starter. Hooked it to the Optima directly. Clunked. Starter gear spun but did not move into position fully.

Can't work on the car until Thursday because of the weather. So here I sit; waiting for a new starter to arrive so that I can troubleshoot the issue further.
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Old Mar 7, 2014 | 08:15 PM
  #34  
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Finally got everything grounded properly. Now I have to work out how to build my grounding set up.
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Old Mar 8, 2014 | 06:52 AM
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I actually remembered to grab my vert rims on the way out of the house this morning. Checklist for the today:

1. Get the FC started
2. Swap rubber of OE rims to Vert rims
3. Return old starter for Core.
4. (If there is time) Clean up Garret T28 and remove GTiR Manifold
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Old Mar 8, 2014 | 07:11 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by the_mute
I actually remembered to grab my vert rims on the way out of the house this morning. Checklist for the today:

1. Get the FC started
2. Swap rubber of OE rims to Vert rims
3. Return old starter for Core.
4. (If there is time) Clean up Garret T28 and remove GTiR Manifold
Or complete none of this. It would appear that I have fault in the harness somewhere. I have checked all the voltage and resistance levels on the starter. Only clear indicator is that the battery drops to 10 volts when I engage the starter. All my engine grounds are good. Clutch switch and start cut off relay are working.
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Old Mar 9, 2014 | 06:32 AM
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I found this while searching last night:

RX7 refuses to start and makes funny noises at me (video)... - RX7Club.com

Run a 12v straight from the ignition switch to the starter.I know it's a post about 3rd gens but the principle is the same.



I know that is a simplistic diagram, but this is what I am proposing.
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Old Mar 9, 2014 | 07:07 AM
  #38  
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What I do when I am not banging my head against a wall trying to source this gremlin.























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Old Mar 9, 2014 | 07:07 AM
  #39  
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Old Mar 9, 2014 | 02:52 PM
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The FC is down for the count. After spinning the motor by hand after the starter died, the motor now refuses to budge. Used a scope and it appears the rotors have carbon locked to the housings. That's all she wrote. Going to look at an S4 tomorrow night as a staging platform for continuing the build.
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Old Mar 9, 2014 | 04:14 PM
  #41  
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Dude that sucks brother! Sorry to hear that! Hopefully the S4 you're looking at will get you what you need!
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Old Mar 9, 2014 | 06:31 PM
  #42  
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Never give up, never surrender! Time for a JDM swap!
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Old Mar 9, 2014 | 07:10 PM
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Carbon locked? Not enough redline mannnn
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Old Mar 9, 2014 | 07:31 PM
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Don't give up on it, work to free it and make it live, at least till your able to rebuild the motor
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Old Mar 9, 2014 | 07:46 PM
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The photos from VIR the other weekend? I missed the event saddly
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Old Mar 10, 2014 | 02:58 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by 88fc3sT2
Carbon locked? Not enough redline mannnn
I know. And I thought I was being too harsh on the motor. Turns out it wasn't enough.

Don't give up on it, work to free it and make it live, at least till your able to rebuild the motor
The current plan is to drive the S4 while I rebuild the S5 engine. I had a bit of cancer on the floor pans and frame rails of the S5 from its time in Michigan. Depending on the state of this S4 I may do a full swap over and sell off the bits of the S5 I don't need to recoup some money.

The photos from VIR the other weekend? I missed the event saddly
It was a good time. Hopefully I will be able to do a bit of sliding next time. I don't mind playing photographer, but I wanted to go out there so bad.
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Old Mar 11, 2014 | 12:26 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Craze8
The photos from VIR the other weekend? I missed the event saddly
We had something at piedmont dragway in greensboro this past weekend, and silverdragon had a event at ncccar also.

Originally Posted by the_mute
The current plan is to drive the S4 while I rebuild the S5 engine. I had a bit of cancer on the floor pans and frame rails of the S5 from its time in Michigan. Depending on the state of this S4 I may do a full swap over and sell off the bits of the S5 I don't need to recoup some money.
fuuuuuuuuuuck rust. lets see pics of this new ride now.
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Old Mar 11, 2014 | 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by SpikeDerailed
fuuuuuuuuuuck rust. lets see pics of this new ride now.
The S4 is Super clean in the rust department. Paint and interior wise a little rough.

Pictures will be up tonight.
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 02:25 PM
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If the s5 molding and stuff is good, you could convert the s4 to s5.. maybe even swap in the interior?
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 88fc3sT2
If the s5 molding and stuff is good, you could convert the s4 to s5.. maybe even swap in the interior?
That was option 1. But I also have been enticed by option 2: Combine the best of both into one ***** out drift car.
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