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Unfortunately not For ~$37 though this should be a lifetime's worth of lacing for anyone that's thinking about making more than 1 harness down the road...
I would recommend Prowire for the Lacing cord. His price is really good for that stuff. It is very thin so a lot of places have a hard time measuring it and they charge a lot more for it.
I would think the factory gauges are not too difficult. I do the FD gauges flawlessly and as long as you pay attention to what you are doing it isn't an issue.
Nice to see another FSAE powertrain lead into doritos. I was fortunate enough to take Claudes advanced vehicle dynamics course in Canada with Andrew, Trevor, and a few other RIT guys this past year. I also was a Calibration Engineer at Econtrols San Antonio with one of your newest engine guys at Roush Nick Baggett? FSAE Kansas powertrain lead.
I plan on doing the same thing you are doing now to my harness - I am a student still, but a EE major. Time is rough while in school, but I love reading through your thread, it is inspirational!
Nice to see another FSAE powertrain lead into doritos. I was fortunate enough to take Claudes advanced vehicle dynamics course in Canada with Andrew, Trevor, and a few other RIT guys this past year. I also was a Calibration Engineer at Econtrols San Antonio with one of your newest engine guys at Roush Nick Baggett? FSAE Kansas powertrain lead.
Nice! Yea FSAE taught me a lot and certainly got me the job with RYE.
Cool, yea Nick is working on the Cup cars so i really havent worked with him much since he started, but met him at the Mich comp this year. I'm mainly on the sports car side these days.
I plan on doing the same thing you are doing now to my harness - I am a student still, but a EE major. Time is rough while in school, but I love reading through your thread, it is inspirational!
Cool thanks! Yea time and money would be a huge issue in school. Does your school have an FSAE team? I'd highly recommend joining up and help with their harness if you can. There's a lot to learn from doing it once. I know of several things i'd do different if i started over.
Hey mate, are you happy with the Rhino 4200 for your heat shrink labelling?
Looking to pick one up soon. Slowly gathering supplies, while my harness build is still quite a way away.
Yea it's great. Just be aware that 5ft of shrink tube gets used up really quick. I think im on my 3rd or 4th cassette of the 1/8" already. A good trick i eventually learned was to print a lot of labels together. Theres a ton of waste at either end printing 1 at a time, but printing several together with 4 spaces in between and then cutting them saves a lot of length.
Cool thanks! Yea time and money would be a huge issue in school. Does your school have an FSAE team? I'd highly recommend joining up and help with their harness if you can. There's a lot to learn from doing it once. I know of several things i'd do different if i started over.
No, it does not, but it does have a Baja SAE team, and I am apart of that - most of the guys are ME's and I am a lone EE but with a strong passion towards the automobile industry
I've been slow to update this but over the last couple of weeks i've beeped out all the wires to make sure theyre in the right spot. Good thing i did, i caught a couple little mistakes that were easy to fix with no shrink tube.
Next i started doing shrink tube on all the straight lengths. There was one section thats got sort of an odd breakout, so i had to un-twist part of it to fit the right sized shrink tube on it and then re-twist. I've pretty much run out of shrink tube now so i'll need to get more next week. I can also order more boots now that i have a better idea of the sizes of the breakouts.
Once i finish installing the last bit of shrink tube i have, i'll install it in the car and figure out final lengths for all of the connectors. Most are quite long at the moment. Then i can terminate, install connectors, and maybe plug my ecu in for the first time. I guess i better learn how it works....
The first piece was the hardest to install. I tried a couple times before taping everything up and using a larger diameter tube.
It might be slightly too larger for this diameter but i couldnt fit a smaller size. And its only a tick loose.
The rest of the lengths along the main trunk were a lot easier to install
I wasnt able to get the right sized tube over this joint, so i had to untwist it.
Un-twisted section
Re- twisted. I had a little trouble with the splices, i'll need to be careful with the boot here.
No, it does not, but it does have a Baja SAE team, and I am apart of that - most of the guys are ME's and I am a lone EE but with a strong passion towards the automobile industry
Hah the never ending battle of Baja vs Formula. You know Formula is better tho right??? Ha ha nah thats cool, stick with it. There's a lot to learn from it.
No, it does not, but it does have a Baja SAE team, and I am apart of that - most of the guys are ME's and I am a lone EE but with a strong passion towards the automobile industry
An EE on a Baja team?! I guess you definitely have to interject yourself into other aspects of the car.
I reached a bit of a milestone this weekend. I finally test fitted my harness in the car. It went pretty well. No big panics, thank god. I do need to re think a couple of the break outs that i was planning to use straight boots for. I also need to change the direction that some of the legs come out of boots. Overall i'm pretty happy with it so far and starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel.
And i was worried that the ECU end was on the short side....
The factory pass thru grommet is actually super nice.
This breakout isn't quite as nice as i'd hoped since its going to end up on a bend. It'll be OK tho...
I seemed to have missed this breakout by about 8 inches, i ended up with all 3 legs following the main trunk for about that long. oh well.
I cut it close on the injector wires, but theyre close enough. I might have left a little extra on the primaries if i did it again tho.
I was originally planning on these two breakouts being straight and bending the straight lengths on either side. I now realize that a couple of 90* boots will be a lot nicer. As long as i get them bent in the right direction that is.
I like how this turned out.
This part wasn't fun however. Fortunately SD-20 makes a great lubricant and it dries up clean.
What are you doing with the wiper motor wiring? Deleting the cruise as well? The cruise system is completely standalone and can function properly with an aftermarket ECU.
What are you doing with the wiper motor wiring? Deleting the cruise as well? The cruise system is completely standalone and can function properly with an aftermarket ECU.
I included wiper and cruise wires. I've got new pins for both the FEM-01 and FEM-02 connectors as well as the cruise and wiper connectors. I've robbed connector housings from a donor harness.
Originally Posted by eage8
is that the stock firewall boot?
The firewall boot is stock. I robbed that from the donor harness too.
Been following this from the beginning. Excellent work so far. It shows a lot of thought and consideration that most people don't put into their wiring.
But, it then puzzles me why you would take the factory path on the right side which runs the harness directly over the hot turbo area. Why not follow along the firewall and break out above the engine? Or even better, what I've been doing lately, just run the harness up to the engine via the transmission tunnel?
I've enjoyed following this even knowing nothing of the art of motorsports wiring.
Could you provide some info on the underlaying theory and practice of the wire twisting?
Obviously it looks bitchin, but I suspect there's aviation influence in play and a more hard-nosed, practical reason for why/how it's done. I'd guess that flexibility/stress relief are major goals of the technique but don't really know.
As a member of the rabble whose harnesses have been frankensteined cut/paste jobs tournequetted in electrical tape, I'd like to appreciate the finer points of your craft.
From what I understand, concentric wire twisting allows for the smallest diameter of harness given the number of wires. Also, it allows for flexibility in the harness and EMI resistance to the overall harness due to the twisting.
thanks for sharing...this is awesome work....what would also be a cool addition and making the harness job easier I suspect would have been a sealed circular firewall connector making it easier to pull and install the motor. Although that would not have been a cheap addition as the connectors are expensive and the crimpers even more ridiculously priced.
I have been completely stalled out on this project since the beginning of Jan. I had enough racecar at work getting ready for the Rolex24 to use up all my ambition. I also kinda accidentally on purpose bought a speedboat, so that's been a good distraction. I'm going to try to make a little progress today and get some momentum going again. Unfortunately we will start testing in Europe with the WEC cars soon, so there really isn't the normal post Daytona slowdown that i was hoping for...
On another note, i want to insure my electronics since i have so much invested. I have Geico currently and talked to them about how to add coverage for the new electronics. They sold me 10K additional electronics coverage which i later found out, through my own research, would only cover 1k of custom electronics and 10k of manufacturer electronics. Needless to say, i was quite upset that i had spent half an hour on the phone discussing exactly what i wanted covered and they sold me coverage that wouldn't actually cover what we had discussed. I am now looking for new insurance for all my cars/boat/renters policies (that were with Geico). Any suggestions?
For ~$37 though this should be a lifetime's worth of lacing for anyone that's thinking about making more than 1 harness down the road...
12-17-15, 12:07 PM
