Project: Adverny
07-25-13, 01:05 AM
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Journ
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Project: Adverny
HI EVERYONE. My name is Journey McDowell. I am a third year Cal Poly Engineering student. I am from northern california and am familiar with roads such as highway 237, highway 9, etc. I love the FC because it's an iconic car for its era as well as the fact it was so different because of the motor that's put in it-- the 13b 1.3L wankel engine! I picked up the car with 87,000 miles on it my senior year of high school, boy was I ecstatic. I wanted to start a build thread to document the progress i've made in this car--but also to share what has worked and what hasn't worked for me. I am still learning and this project has been a great outlet for me to fulfill the need to build something rather than doing countless engineering problems.
07-25-13, 01:23 AM
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First comes first was unfortunately making the vehicle smog legal. The car apparently had a mindtrain header to a gutted out bonez high flow cat--it stunk like a rotary. The cool thing though was that i came with a remoteless key. *beep beep*
07-25-13, 01:40 AM
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I really nerded out with the rotary engine trying to understand the new beast I soon needed to tame. The documents below mathematically describe and derive the commonly accepted ideas of the rotary engine such as: 1) For every one rotation of the rotor, there are three rotations of the shaft 2) Radius of the fixed gear shaft is 2 times the radius of eccentricity 3) The epitrochoidal shape of the housing is derived by a larger circle around a fixed smaller one.
These are rough proofs none the less, but I learned all this by being reading and trying to make sense of this brilliant idea for a motor! Did you know that the way mazda showcased their motor was that they set a penny on its side on top of the manifold and revved up the motor and proved the smoothness of their engine because it did not tip over? (The Wankel Rotary Engine by John B Hege, P.62)
After understanding that these equations were parametric I was able to simulate a "triangle" rotate within this shape with a program called QBASIC. I then copied that shape into a free CAD program call Inkscape which allowed me to draw my own parts into a 12x12 area. Using this program I went ahead and designed cams, 2:3 ratio gears, housing, and rotors to be laser cut on acrylic plastic using an Epilog Laser Cutter.
This was a working model of the wankel rotary engine!!!
These are rough proofs none the less, but I learned all this by being reading and trying to make sense of this brilliant idea for a motor! Did you know that the way mazda showcased their motor was that they set a penny on its side on top of the manifold and revved up the motor and proved the smoothness of their engine because it did not tip over? (The Wankel Rotary Engine by John B Hege, P.62)
After understanding that these equations were parametric I was able to simulate a "triangle" rotate within this shape with a program called QBASIC. I then copied that shape into a free CAD program call Inkscape which allowed me to draw my own parts into a 12x12 area. Using this program I went ahead and designed cams, 2:3 ratio gears, housing, and rotors to be laser cut on acrylic plastic using an Epilog Laser Cutter.
This was a working model of the wankel rotary engine!!!
07-25-13, 02:10 AM
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Met a pretty dynamic group of people in SLO. AE86 Corolla Coupe, another nonturbo FC rx7, some 240 guys, and an STI swapped legacy. My driving got tested by these guys thats for that's for certain--the memories.
07-25-13, 02:53 AM
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After the crash, I had a broken a racing beat sway bar bracket and cracked an OMP (Oil metering pump) line. My FC is a 1988 model, therefore it had the mechanical lines which are supposedly more reliable than the s5 "electronic" ones.
I replaced the sway bar bracket, but I couldn't leave this component to continue to leak astronomically. I called up the mazda dealership and they claimed it was going to be close to $800.00 to replace the OMP as well as its lines. Option two was to premix. That's exactly what I did.
It's interesting because these rotaries run sort of like a 2-stroke motor. The way that mazda designed it to lubricate itself was to mechanically inject engine oil using the OMP directly into the cycle to burn it off. Analogously, premixing is doing the same thing except for it injects alongside with the gasoline. This means you must initially dilute the gasoline with TCW3 motor oil. I literally have a turkey baster and a measuring cup in the back of the hatch.
Now people often say on rx7club to mix an oz of premix to a gallon of gasoline. I spoke with a rotary technician--I met with at All Star Bash 2012 who worked on Martin's Powered By Max FC-- and what he had to say baffled me. He claimed, "That's way too much actually because you may be more prone to clogging injectors and what not." So that frightened me just slightly. He showed me a water bottle and pointed to the bottom bulge and said that's how much he uses for a whole gas tank.
Anecdotally, I tried it all-- 1 oz : 1 gallon, I tried his method--but i justified to meet somewhere in the middle of both of the suggestions. I have driven 4k on this premixed vehicle with a ratio of 1/4 oz : 1 gallon. That is the equivalent of roughly 4 oz's per tank.
I replaced the sway bar bracket, but I couldn't leave this component to continue to leak astronomically. I called up the mazda dealership and they claimed it was going to be close to $800.00 to replace the OMP as well as its lines. Option two was to premix. That's exactly what I did.
It's interesting because these rotaries run sort of like a 2-stroke motor. The way that mazda designed it to lubricate itself was to mechanically inject engine oil using the OMP directly into the cycle to burn it off. Analogously, premixing is doing the same thing except for it injects alongside with the gasoline. This means you must initially dilute the gasoline with TCW3 motor oil. I literally have a turkey baster and a measuring cup in the back of the hatch.
Now people often say on rx7club to mix an oz of premix to a gallon of gasoline. I spoke with a rotary technician--I met with at All Star Bash 2012 who worked on Martin's Powered By Max FC-- and what he had to say baffled me. He claimed, "That's way too much actually because you may be more prone to clogging injectors and what not." So that frightened me just slightly. He showed me a water bottle and pointed to the bottom bulge and said that's how much he uses for a whole gas tank.
Anecdotally, I tried it all-- 1 oz : 1 gallon, I tried his method--but i justified to meet somewhere in the middle of both of the suggestions. I have driven 4k on this premixed vehicle with a ratio of 1/4 oz : 1 gallon. That is the equivalent of roughly 4 oz's per tank.
07-25-13, 03:20 AM
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Going about blocking off the OMP lines was quite the project and it took me some time because I was in the midst of a hefty load of schooling at the time. I had to take the intake assembly off, upper manifold, lower manifold, actuators, cruise control, throttle cable and clutch fan off in order to finally see the OMP.
I made sure to mark what rat's nest tubing went to what and kept all my hardware in labeled zip lock bags.
My friend gave me an opened banzai racing omp block off kit.
FC3s OMP Elimination Kits
The hardest part for me was figuring out what exactly the OMP lines were connected to as this was my first time taking the upper half of the motor apart. The kit my friend gave me too apparently was missing the allen head bolts to plug up the four oil injectors-- I think it was because it was opened previously, but it was free and all. Below is a photo with a red circle locating where I needed to order allen head bolts to block off the oil injectors.
I always wondered why allen head bolts? I searched forums, I searched online, I asked engineers-- and finally came to the conclusion that allen head's seat better than hex heads.
Ripping out the oil metering pump felt like ripping the head of an octopus off and untangling all of its tentacles. I sprayed it clean with brake cleaner and blocked it off with the plate, screwing it in place. I then used RTV Silicone to add some extra sealant.
Once you got through that I ended up having to order allen head bolts for the oil injectors. Those proved to be too tall for the right two oil injector holes. I tried to order the next size in length down, but apparently it was unavailable from every local store. I then went to get it machined short and they re-lathed the threads for 10 bucks. It needed to be 10mm x 1.0 thread pitch.
I made sure to mark what rat's nest tubing went to what and kept all my hardware in labeled zip lock bags.
My friend gave me an opened banzai racing omp block off kit.
FC3s OMP Elimination Kits
The hardest part for me was figuring out what exactly the OMP lines were connected to as this was my first time taking the upper half of the motor apart. The kit my friend gave me too apparently was missing the allen head bolts to plug up the four oil injectors-- I think it was because it was opened previously, but it was free and all. Below is a photo with a red circle locating where I needed to order allen head bolts to block off the oil injectors.
I always wondered why allen head bolts? I searched forums, I searched online, I asked engineers-- and finally came to the conclusion that allen head's seat better than hex heads.
Ripping out the oil metering pump felt like ripping the head of an octopus off and untangling all of its tentacles. I sprayed it clean with brake cleaner and blocked it off with the plate, screwing it in place. I then used RTV Silicone to add some extra sealant.
Once you got through that I ended up having to order allen head bolts for the oil injectors. Those proved to be too tall for the right two oil injector holes. I tried to order the next size in length down, but apparently it was unavailable from every local store. I then went to get it machined short and they re-lathed the threads for 10 bucks. It needed to be 10mm x 1.0 thread pitch.
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07-25-13, 04:24 AM
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That's Rad YounG_Gunner, i'm originally from milpitas in the southbay. I'm actually heading back up to the bay this weekend for some initial D meet my friend is bugging me to go to. It's in lafayette.
07-25-13, 04:34 AM
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Another funny mechanism that I feel Mazda designed was the cold start assist. Their thought process-- I think-- was to inject anti-freeze into the housings to burn off with the gasoline to help "kick-start" the motor when its below freezing.
First of all, that's categorically false because antifreeze does not burn. Assuming I understood their full intents and purposes for this, I decided to block off this port as well. People often did this as they felt as if it served no purpose-- and it really didn't for me in California.
This mechanism is interesting to me though, I wonder if we could use the reservoir as a meth injection kit!!?
Below are photos of the omp lines i ripped out along with the cold start assist.
First of all, that's categorically false because antifreeze does not burn. Assuming I understood their full intents and purposes for this, I decided to block off this port as well. People often did this as they felt as if it served no purpose-- and it really didn't for me in California.
This mechanism is interesting to me though, I wonder if we could use the reservoir as a meth injection kit!!?
Below are photos of the omp lines i ripped out along with the cold start assist.
Last edited by takeajourney; 07-25-13 at 04:36 AM.
07-25-13, 04:59 AM
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I then re-assembled all the components with the block off plates in tact and RTV silicone'd--except for the clutch fan (I'll get to that later). I put a gallon of gasoline and 1/4 of an oz of TCW3 oil. We plugged the battery in and primed the fuel system.
I cranked her over and "bup, bup, brrrrrrrrraahahhhh!" SHE STARTED RIGHT UP. BUT HER REVS KEPT INCREASING. So i put my clutch in. The revs still continue to increase ever so slightly. I figured it must've been just warming up issues, so I take it out of the garage and onto the street.
If i dont drop the clutch and engage the motor and the tranny, the rev's increase to the point where i wasnt comfortable with it. It was a moment where my friends were like, "Journey where are you going?!" I remember me yelling, "I uhhhh can't stop the car quiiiite yet."
I bring it around the block and back into the garage and turn the car off. We checked the throttle lines to see if we put it back alright. We checked the cruise control cable to see if it was stuck. Trying to chronologically follow the system,
WE TOOK THE INTAKE PIPING OFF. SURE ENOUGH I FORGOT TO TAKE A RED RAG THAT I STUFFED IN THERE OUT.
It was keeping the throttle jammed open.
I trolled myself, but after taking the rag out she was alive again!!!!
I cranked her over and "bup, bup, brrrrrrrrraahahhhh!" SHE STARTED RIGHT UP. BUT HER REVS KEPT INCREASING. So i put my clutch in. The revs still continue to increase ever so slightly. I figured it must've been just warming up issues, so I take it out of the garage and onto the street.
If i dont drop the clutch and engage the motor and the tranny, the rev's increase to the point where i wasnt comfortable with it. It was a moment where my friends were like, "Journey where are you going?!" I remember me yelling, "I uhhhh can't stop the car quiiiite yet."
I bring it around the block and back into the garage and turn the car off. We checked the throttle lines to see if we put it back alright. We checked the cruise control cable to see if it was stuck. Trying to chronologically follow the system,
WE TOOK THE INTAKE PIPING OFF. SURE ENOUGH I FORGOT TO TAKE A RED RAG THAT I STUFFED IN THERE OUT.
It was keeping the throttle jammed open.
I trolled myself, but after taking the rag out she was alive again!!!!
07-25-13, 05:13 AM
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The reason I didn't put the clutch fan back in for the initial revival was because I stripped the bolts trying to take it off. This big clunky fan just got in the way and was a pain taking off all the time since the bolts were so prone to damage.
You literally had to jam a flat head between two other nuts to hold it into place to be able to box wrench one at a time. Just a hassle. So i decided to go e-fan.
My initial mindset was that it'll be a cheap fix since I'll get it from a choice between the Ford Taurus or Mercury Villager. Second, I'll build my own controller connected to a thermoswitch that I'll save money from buying a controller box. Third, supposedly more horsepower since it has less of a mass moment of inertia on the crank?
I decided to go with the Mercury Villager as it sounded like too many people complained about the amperage draw from the Taurus fan affecting their alternators. Nonetheless, the electric fan from the 1995 Mercury Villager fit beautifully. I had to dremel cut room for my hoses. It hardly took away from the shroud's rigidity.
I followed this thread a ton to get an idea of where to start: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...switch-886862/
Wiring it up was the interesting part for me...
You literally had to jam a flat head between two other nuts to hold it into place to be able to box wrench one at a time. Just a hassle. So i decided to go e-fan.
My initial mindset was that it'll be a cheap fix since I'll get it from a choice between the Ford Taurus or Mercury Villager. Second, I'll build my own controller connected to a thermoswitch that I'll save money from buying a controller box. Third, supposedly more horsepower since it has less of a mass moment of inertia on the crank?
I decided to go with the Mercury Villager as it sounded like too many people complained about the amperage draw from the Taurus fan affecting their alternators. Nonetheless, the electric fan from the 1995 Mercury Villager fit beautifully. I had to dremel cut room for my hoses. It hardly took away from the shroud's rigidity.
I followed this thread a ton to get an idea of where to start: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...switch-886862/
Wiring it up was the interesting part for me...
07-25-13, 05:50 AM
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***WARNING*** Dealing with all this circuitry work requires a bit of experience with electronics as it deals with soldering, relays, and basic knowledge of "wire plumbing."
I literally had a cloud of electrical fire smoke come out of my wires because i accidentally grounded my e-fan circuit to the wrong component.
So first things first: I had to order a new thermostat housing that a location for the thermoswitch. My stock s4 had its hole factory plugged up, but I was able to obtain an aluminum housing that still had its factory thermoswitch!
My father is an electrical engineer so I had him draw me up schematics to hook up my electric fan going through a fuse and three relays and back to the factory thermoswitch. THREE RELAYS?? YES THE FACTORY THERMOSWITCH WIRING IS MORE COMPLICATED BECAUSE IT IS NORMALLY CLOSED. REGULAR ONES ARE NORMALLY OPEN.
How this system works is that when the thermoswitch (normally closed ) heats up to the temp over 194 degrees F or 90 degrees C, the switch inside will actually mold open--thus completing the circuit through the three relays. One of the relays acts as an inverter to correctly allow for completion of the circuit. Completing the circuit allows the fan to being to spin! So this is an automated mechanism based off of temperature. I believed in this route, because I didnt want to ever forget to turn on the fan and just completely overheat my vehicle.
I believe the reason why mazda designed a normally closed thermoswitch option is because if a component fails, your fan would be on all the time as a default-- just an assumption.
I assembled and wired up the circuit outside of the car on a wooden block just to see if my father's so-called "designs" worked. SURE ENOUGH, I was able to light up an LED by applying voltage. Then i tested the actual fan itself--just as expected the acoustic noise of the fan came on! Boy did I feel it pull those cfm's.
I used a bandsaw to cut a green "circuit board wafer" and attached all three relays to it and the board to the chassis. Finding a 12V wire was interesting because I had to tap into something that wasn't being used. Using a multimeter helped me find it, it felt like dousing for electricity hahahha.
**WORD OF CAUTION*** ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS, AND I REPEAT ALWAYS SWITCH TO VOLTAGE WHEN YOU ARE MEASURING VOLTAGE. IF YOU TRY TO MEASURE CURRENT, YOU WILL FRY THE FUSE IN YOUR MULTIMETER.
A way to test if this circuit was working was to unplug the wire to the thermoswitch, which opens the circuit. This sort of tricks the circuit to see if the fan will turn on.
I literally had a cloud of electrical fire smoke come out of my wires because i accidentally grounded my e-fan circuit to the wrong component.
So first things first: I had to order a new thermostat housing that a location for the thermoswitch. My stock s4 had its hole factory plugged up, but I was able to obtain an aluminum housing that still had its factory thermoswitch!
My father is an electrical engineer so I had him draw me up schematics to hook up my electric fan going through a fuse and three relays and back to the factory thermoswitch. THREE RELAYS?? YES THE FACTORY THERMOSWITCH WIRING IS MORE COMPLICATED BECAUSE IT IS NORMALLY CLOSED. REGULAR ONES ARE NORMALLY OPEN.
How this system works is that when the thermoswitch (normally closed ) heats up to the temp over 194 degrees F or 90 degrees C, the switch inside will actually mold open--thus completing the circuit through the three relays. One of the relays acts as an inverter to correctly allow for completion of the circuit. Completing the circuit allows the fan to being to spin! So this is an automated mechanism based off of temperature. I believed in this route, because I didnt want to ever forget to turn on the fan and just completely overheat my vehicle.
I believe the reason why mazda designed a normally closed thermoswitch option is because if a component fails, your fan would be on all the time as a default-- just an assumption.
I assembled and wired up the circuit outside of the car on a wooden block just to see if my father's so-called "designs" worked. SURE ENOUGH, I was able to light up an LED by applying voltage. Then i tested the actual fan itself--just as expected the acoustic noise of the fan came on! Boy did I feel it pull those cfm's.
I used a bandsaw to cut a green "circuit board wafer" and attached all three relays to it and the board to the chassis. Finding a 12V wire was interesting because I had to tap into something that wasn't being used. Using a multimeter helped me find it, it felt like dousing for electricity hahahha.
**WORD OF CAUTION*** ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS, AND I REPEAT ALWAYS SWITCH TO VOLTAGE WHEN YOU ARE MEASURING VOLTAGE. IF YOU TRY TO MEASURE CURRENT, YOU WILL FRY THE FUSE IN YOUR MULTIMETER.
A way to test if this circuit was working was to unplug the wire to the thermoswitch, which opens the circuit. This sort of tricks the circuit to see if the fan will turn on.
Last edited by takeajourney; 07-25-13 at 05:53 AM.
07-25-13, 06:04 AM
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Despite my "Mach-I" attempt for an electric fan worked, I wanted to simplify it to one relay. I just was uber bugged by the fact that it felt backwards-- I felt like it should've been so much easier.
In order to accomplish this task at hand, all that needed to be done was to get a normally open thermoswitch. I discovered that the Starion Conquest TSI had a thermoswitch that had the same threads and fit inside our thermostat housing. The rumors were true. I believe its m16 with a 1.5 thread pitch.
I drew up new schematics and quickly shorted wires up, made less of a cluster, and cleanly put in ONE relay. What's happening in this circuit is that when the temperature reaches 194 degrees F, the switch will mold over to make connection and thus complete the circuit and turning the e-fan on. MUCH MUCH SIMPLER.
In order to accomplish this task at hand, all that needed to be done was to get a normally open thermoswitch. I discovered that the Starion Conquest TSI had a thermoswitch that had the same threads and fit inside our thermostat housing. The rumors were true. I believe its m16 with a 1.5 thread pitch.
I drew up new schematics and quickly shorted wires up, made less of a cluster, and cleanly put in ONE relay. What's happening in this circuit is that when the temperature reaches 194 degrees F, the switch will mold over to make connection and thus complete the circuit and turning the e-fan on. MUCH MUCH SIMPLER.
07-25-13, 06:14 AM
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Upgrades that are on this car atm:
Front and rear racing beat sway bars
tokico blues struts
eibach springs
mazdatrix strut bar
hks super mega flow cold air intake
racing beat ignition coils
hawks hp+ pads
koyo radiator
cusco spin turn ****
racing beat header
racing beat presilencer
racing beat catback
ksp fresh air headlight cover
Front and rear racing beat sway bars
tokico blues struts
eibach springs
mazdatrix strut bar
hks super mega flow cold air intake
racing beat ignition coils
hawks hp+ pads
koyo radiator
cusco spin turn ****
racing beat header
racing beat presilencer
racing beat catback
ksp fresh air headlight cover
07-25-13, 09:52 PM
#16
Could have easily re-used the OMP by sourcing some pre-owned lines, or buying materials and making them your self. I believe some people on there also make kits. But... pre-mix works too. 
On an NA motor? 
Car looks clean. Try to stay out of those ditches.
This mechanism is interesting to me though, I wonder if we could use the reservoir as a meth injection kit!!?
Car looks clean. Try to stay out of those ditches.
07-26-13, 03:22 PM
#17
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That was definitely a viable option to get old lines, but i justified it by being able to go to sleep at night that my motor is always being lubricated! Thanks man, I plan to push this car but hopefully staying outta ditches! haha.
Yeh it's naturally aspirated. Once this motor blows, definitely going turbo swap.
Yeh it's naturally aspirated. Once this motor blows, definitely going turbo swap.
09-05-13, 12:34 AM
#18
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Picked up some enkei rpf1's that are 17x8.5 with +30 offset. It is a tight fit on the tokico blues struts, but they've made the car feel so much more grippier! These wheels are to tie me over until I can afford the wheels I want.
I'm going to an autocross event this sunday-- hope to see some norcal friends out there!
I'm going to an autocross event this sunday-- hope to see some norcal friends out there!
Last edited by takeajourney; 09-05-13 at 12:51 AM.
09-05-13, 12:48 AM
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Installed a Nardi Deep corn steering wheel to an NRG quick release and an "FD" hub I picked up on rx7club. The steering wheel is so much closer that I constantly miss the turn signal haha. This is honestly one mod to the car that makes it feel like a different car!
I had to source my own hex nuts to fit the wheel hub to the quick release that were sized M5- 1.25 pitch. I got grade 8.8, but do you think there is much need for 10.9. This IS a safety factor....
This combined with the fitting a helmet on my noggin' requires me to sit farther back-- it's getting time to need a bucket seat!
I had to source my own hex nuts to fit the wheel hub to the quick release that were sized M5- 1.25 pitch. I got grade 8.8, but do you think there is much need for 10.9. This IS a safety factor....
This combined with the fitting a helmet on my noggin' requires me to sit farther back-- it's getting time to need a bucket seat!
Last edited by takeajourney; 09-05-13 at 12:52 AM.
09-07-13, 09:04 AM
#20
Great work! I have been looking at replacing my fan wiring as well (previous owner set it to run constantly). Do you remember what year TSI had this correct switch? Also, correct me if I am wrong, but if you premix it will be harder to pass emissions?
09-07-13, 11:28 AM
#21
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The starion switch was a 1987! Make sure to get the thermoswitch because I actually ordered the thermosender first--which is simply a sensor. You'll know because it wont fit !
Funny that you ask whether or not I pass smog with premix because I just had to go through this process: YES I DID PASS EMISSIONS WITH PREMIX. Visual is a different story as it depends on who you go to because you are missing the oil metering pump, but i did my part as a California citizen to pass emissions haha.
There is a distinct two stroke smell as it burns along with the gas, but all-in-all the numbers below show that my emissions were low enough to pass with premixing.
Funny that you ask whether or not I pass smog with premix because I just had to go through this process: YES I DID PASS EMISSIONS WITH PREMIX. Visual is a different story as it depends on who you go to because you are missing the oil metering pump, but i did my part as a California citizen to pass emissions haha.
There is a distinct two stroke smell as it burns along with the gas, but all-in-all the numbers below show that my emissions were low enough to pass with premixing.
Last edited by takeajourney; 09-07-13 at 11:32 AM.
