My turn on my derpy build
06-09-12, 05:42 PM
#29
Oh, I didn't realize my nomenclature was wrong, thanks for the correction.
My results still stand however, no change to coolant temps with/without the undertray.
I just (semi) confirmed this yesterday as I tested my newly reinstalled Godspeed rad for leaks.
Two runs under more or less identical conditions, back to back, first without (Yay!, no leaks...yet) and then with the undertray.
No temp difference.
I have no explanation or theory to explain this- and I've put the undertray back on (because why not?)- but it makes no difference on my particular car.
My results still stand however, no change to coolant temps with/without the undertray.
I just (semi) confirmed this yesterday as I tested my newly reinstalled Godspeed rad for leaks.
Two runs under more or less identical conditions, back to back, first without (Yay!, no leaks...yet) and then with the undertray.
No temp difference.
I have no explanation or theory to explain this- and I've put the undertray back on (because why not?)- but it makes no difference on my particular car.
06-09-12, 09:52 PM
#30
Well, that's what the PC ******* crowd says it means with no other possible connotation. My gf and I use the term all the time when describing things that are just a bit 'special', silly things, our goofball dogs, et cetera. That ponies show has been pressured into changing the character name "Derpy Hooves" to something less 'offensive', idk how that was concluded, but basically people get their panties in a bunch when a show tries to relate to real live people and circumstances... yada yada yada, off topic.
Build looks interesting. I'd have tried not to use so many silicone elbows, turns are where the most internal turbulence builds so you run a higher risk of blowing them off or blowing them out. However, I'm sure there are plenty of people doing the same thing... so it may just be a nitpick.
06-09-12, 10:00 PM
#31
^ I agree with you and the "sillycones". However, it's what I have plenty of. I would like to someday get most of the aluminum piping welded... but how much more do I need to spend? It annoys me too to see it and know it's not the best method, especially by the turbo outlet. There are much better ways to do it. There are 3 connections there that can be eliminated with welded pipe. 3 couplers and 6 t-bolts. Barf!
07-01-12, 05:02 PM
#34
UPDATE!
I was slacking lately with tiny things to do, but I dealt with the heat and got it done.
Exhaust... DONE! Thanks to Rob who gave me a great deal. Much quieter.
Need to fix the wrap a little at the end there... Also completely missing the mounts on the underside of the chassis. Who knows how long ago they were removed. Must of the other points though are held on with new rubber mounts. And the mid-pipe is mounted with a new rubber piece (not visible)
[img]
Also shortened the turbo inlet
overall shot...
side shot...
So, it was a sauna in the car today, but I took it for a short drive. On my way to get gas after 5 minutes, I smelled something burning
It wasn't a lot, but I could see some coming out the rear passenger side of the hood.
I shut it down and pop the hood. Somewhere in the middle area of the turbo, there is smoke. It wasn't blue, so I doubt it's oil. It was grayish/white. However, it was not coolant either. No sweet smell to it. In fact, it was pretty nasty smelling. Maybe like a burnt plastic or something(???).
Not sure what it is! Previously, I had had let the car idle multiple times during the week and nothing ever happened!
So I let the car sit a few minutes and went to fill up with gas. I still smelled it a little, but didn't see anything. I boosted a little (5psi or so) and everything seemed normal but I did not want to push it. When I got home another 5 minutes later I did not see any more smoke while idling in the driveway.
I let it cool 2 hours, then let it idle again. Let it cool, came back a little while ago and let it idle some more. No more smoke, and the smell is gone.
Not sure what it was. Maybe just residues burning off under full operating temps? I had bought a cheap e-bay oil feed line, I suspect it could have been the gasket. Any other thoughts?
I will have to be careful and (more) alert next time I take the car out.
I was slacking lately with tiny things to do, but I dealt with the heat and got it done.
Exhaust... DONE! Thanks to Rob who gave me a great deal. Much quieter.
Need to fix the wrap a little at the end there... Also completely missing the mounts on the underside of the chassis. Who knows how long ago they were removed. Must of the other points though are held on with new rubber mounts. And the mid-pipe is mounted with a new rubber piece (not visible)
[img]
Also shortened the turbo inlet
overall shot...
side shot...
So, it was a sauna in the car today, but I took it for a short drive. On my way to get gas after 5 minutes, I smelled something burning
It wasn't a lot, but I could see some coming out the rear passenger side of the hood.I shut it down and pop the hood. Somewhere in the middle area of the turbo, there is smoke. It wasn't blue, so I doubt it's oil. It was grayish/white. However, it was not coolant either. No sweet smell to it. In fact, it was pretty nasty smelling. Maybe like a burnt plastic or something(???).
Not sure what it is! Previously, I had had let the car idle multiple times during the week and nothing ever happened!
So I let the car sit a few minutes and went to fill up with gas. I still smelled it a little, but didn't see anything. I boosted a little (5psi or so) and everything seemed normal but I did not want to push it. When I got home another 5 minutes later I did not see any more smoke while idling in the driveway.
I let it cool 2 hours, then let it idle again. Let it cool, came back a little while ago and let it idle some more. No more smoke, and the smell is gone.
Not sure what it was. Maybe just residues burning off under full operating temps? I had bought a cheap e-bay oil feed line, I suspect it could have been the gasket. Any other thoughts?
I will have to be careful and (more) alert next time I take the car out.
07-01-12, 07:40 PM
#36
^I thought about that too, there is some wiring hovering close by, but none of it looks burnt. It really was a nasty smell. Maybe it's the glue or some of that heat reflecting stuff I put on the LIM? However, that doesn't look burnt either. 
I should a get a few chances this week to take the car out (if the weather is comfortable at night)
I should a get a few chances this week to take the car out (if the weather is comfortable at night)
07-02-12, 12:08 PM
#38
It's probably just excess assembly oils and what not being finally burnt off when it reached true operating temps. I'm doing the typical panic I always do; making a mountain out of a mole hill. We'll see what happens next time. I'll have a jug of coolant standing by to put the fire out
07-02-12, 06:37 PM
#43
Sounds good Rob, will be in touch with future PM's. No rush to have it.
I had a slight hesitation, mostly when the car warmed up. Sometimes it was worse than others, never could figure out what was the root cause. Tried a ton of throttle pump settings but could never get it consistent. The other day it completely went nuts and I knew something went horribly wrong when the TPS wouldn't register. Turns out a wire came loose and fell out! I rechecked all the wiring and now everything is dandy. Hopefully no other faulty wiring!
So took the car out just now. Still warm out, but the air is dry and it wasn't a sauna.
The twin scroll really seems to work! The car is very drivable now, accelerating smooooth.
I hit the gas a few times and the car stops at 5psi, and fell off a little, not even fully revved out. I am running 2.5in racing beat DP, pre-silencer, and what looks to be a stock sized "cat back". I know a BNR stage 1 is supposed to behave like stock, but I have a free flowing exhaust and a good sized intake. I know it should and can give more than that.
Think I should "test" it by disconnecting the wastegate and capping the nipple off the turbo?
In the meantime I'll check all my piping for any boost leaks.
Overall, things going well.
I had a slight hesitation, mostly when the car warmed up. Sometimes it was worse than others, never could figure out what was the root cause. Tried a ton of throttle pump settings but could never get it consistent. The other day it completely went nuts and I knew something went horribly wrong when the TPS wouldn't register. Turns out a wire came loose and fell out! I rechecked all the wiring and now everything is dandy. Hopefully no other faulty wiring!
So took the car out just now. Still warm out, but the air is dry and it wasn't a sauna.
The twin scroll really seems to work! The car is very drivable now, accelerating smooooth.
I hit the gas a few times and the car stops at 5psi, and fell off a little, not even fully revved out.
I am running 2.5in racing beat DP, pre-silencer, and what looks to be a stock sized "cat back". I know a BNR stage 1 is supposed to behave like stock, but I have a free flowing exhaust and a good sized intake. I know it should and can give more than that.Think I should "test" it by disconnecting the wastegate and capping the nipple off the turbo?
In the meantime I'll check all my piping for any boost leaks.
Overall, things going well.
07-03-12, 06:02 AM
#45
Yes, stock actuator. I know the wastegate gets ported. I figured that's the reason... Time for a boost controller! I was planning on doing an electronic one with me haltech, just have to find a solenoid.
For now though it's a good idea it doesn't boost high. This should give me a safe "area" to tune with.
For now though it's a good idea it doesn't boost high. This should give me a safe "area" to tune with.
09-16-12, 11:52 AM
#48
Time for an update!
I recently installed some goodies:
Had the greddy BOV lying around, so I might as well use it. I was driving a while with no BOV, but was not worried. Also installed a MAC solenoid to attempt electronic boost controller with my dinosaur haltech E6k. There is very little info on doing this; mostly just "it doesn't work". I don't think it does work... I'm going to buy a manual controller and eliminate some wires. Oh well, I tried and I'm not upset about this one.
Installed some stock emissions equipment. I did not like the fact that my engine bay always smelled like fuel (from the tank vent). Putting this back has eliminated that, I am happy with the results; it was a simple thing.
Water injection! As you can see, the tank will be in the storage box (did not install yet). Ideally, you want the tank higher than the pump, but there is little room to do this in an FC. As long as you prime the system properly, it will work fine.
I did not install it in the spare tire space because I definitely want the spare tire, especially since last week I got a flat on the highway, and had to change my tire at 10:30pm on the side of the road!
Ran the line under the car and inside the frame rail. I'll keep an eye on the line and make sure it doesn't get scraped up.
comes up this way...
I recently installed some goodies:
Had the greddy BOV lying around, so I might as well use it. I was driving a while with no BOV, but was not worried. Also installed a MAC solenoid to attempt electronic boost controller with my dinosaur haltech E6k. There is very little info on doing this; mostly just "it doesn't work". I don't think it does work... I'm going to buy a manual controller and eliminate some wires. Oh well, I tried and I'm not upset about this one.
Installed some stock emissions equipment. I did not like the fact that my engine bay always smelled like fuel (from the tank vent). Putting this back has eliminated that, I am happy with the results; it was a simple thing.
Water injection! As you can see, the tank will be in the storage box (did not install yet). Ideally, you want the tank higher than the pump, but there is little room to do this in an FC. As long as you prime the system properly, it will work fine.I did not install it in the spare tire space because I definitely want the spare tire, especially since last week I got a flat on the highway, and had to change my tire at 10:30pm on the side of the road!
Ran the line under the car and inside the frame rail. I'll keep an eye on the line and make sure it doesn't get scraped up.
comes up this way...
09-16-12, 12:02 PM
#49
continuing:
Installed the controller for the water injection kit. It would have been nice to put it all in the glove box, but the wiring was getting awkward in the area, and I just wanted to get it mounted and running.
You adjust with a minimum boost and a maximum boost. The middle **** is for duty cycle; you can very the flow to increase or reduce the amount injected.
Finally wired in a relay. I used the radio harness to turn the relay on, and grabbed a new line from the battery. I'm using this to power the wideband controller, the 2 gauges and finally the water injection controller. before I had the radio harness powering the gauges and the wideband, probably shouldn't have (and didn't!) put any more onto that circuit.
It's a messy car, but it works.
Installed the controller for the water injection kit. It would have been nice to put it all in the glove box, but the wiring was getting awkward in the area, and I just wanted to get it mounted and running.
You adjust with a minimum boost and a maximum boost. The middle **** is for duty cycle; you can very the flow to increase or reduce the amount injected.
Finally wired in a relay. I used the radio harness to turn the relay on, and grabbed a new line from the battery. I'm using this to power the wideband controller, the 2 gauges and finally the water injection controller. before I had the radio harness powering the gauges and the wideband, probably shouldn't have (and didn't!) put any more onto that circuit.
It's a messy car, but it works.
