My turn on my derpy build
 

It's time for my own build thread.
Some background info...
Old setup can be found in my profile album. I got rid of it for a few reasons. The wastegate was external, and I didn't like the absurd

noise on the street of an open dump pipe. Being broken anyway didn't help! I ultimately would like to get on a the track. Believe it

or not, some tracks have a sound limit. Don't think an open dump pipe would meet that requirement. Also, the greddy turbo is only oil

cooled. I don't know how well that would last on a track. Finally, I wanted something a little more tame and livable to drive around.

I drove this car from November till April, all through the winter; it will be a year long weekend car.

So I sourced a cheapo stock turbo for $50 and a manifold for $20. Not a bad deal! Found a racing beat downpipe in the classifieds for

cheap too. Most parts are/were acquired second hand for this car.

The turbo went off the BNR for a basic stage 1 build. I do not want a crazy beast, just a nice driving car with a little oomph when I

want it.

Onto the pictures:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...e/autobots.jpg
Autobots, roll out!


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ullshottop.jpg
I sourced a greddy intake elbow/pipe so that area of the piping will be done soon


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6.../underpipe.jpg
piping underneath from the turbo to the intercooler


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v639/beefhole/msd.jpg
a little more spark


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...lfeedblock.jpg
Stock feed lines were fubar. ebay turbo oil feed line installed. Hope it works.


more in next post

Formatting got messed up in that first post. oops

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6.../fuelpress.jpg
shiny new parts on an old car


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...e/downpipe.jpg
wrapped downpipe, wrapped O2 sensor. Don't know how effective this stuff is, but what the hell I had it laying around



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6.../actuators.jpg
Yes, I am using the twin scroll!


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...insolenoid.jpg
I have it controlled by the stock solenoid. Hooked up to the Haltech output and will program it as a "dual intake valve"


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...le/wires-1.jpg
wires and lines and ties, oh my!


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6.../yesreally.jpg
yes, that's the stock OMP and stock TPS. yes it works. I'm too stubborn to not use this stuff!

That's it for now.

Some more info on the car:
Old, but still working Haltech E6k.
550/1600 injectors with Walbro 255 and the aeromotive FPR
I run the BAC and thermowax is still on the throttle body. Like I mentioned, I will drive this car year round and that stuff helps in the winter.
I bought my intercooler and pipes w/couplers all from cxracing.com. It wasn't a kit, I just pieced it together. I have some more couplers & piping on the way to build my turbo intake and finish off the rest by the throttle body.

Still need an exhaust! What I had on there was pieced together with steel pipe. It was pretty rusty, and I didn't want to bother modifying it anymore. I have the racingbeat downpipe and I bought their presilencer as well. Now I just need the "cat back" part. Not sure what I am going to do. Corksport has a 2.5inch that might work. I'll keep an eye out locally for something as well...

i am liking it :)

What kind of injector duty cycles do you expect from the 1600cc injectors with a stock turbo?

I have 550cc primaries and 720cc secondaries. Not sure if they're maxed out or not, I haven't looked into how to determine duty cycle on my megasquirt.

Cool build though! In a lot of ways, very similar to mine. Kind of on the low buck route, yet classy and properly done.

Stage 1 from BNR looks like a stock turbo, but does put out more. I've read it is capable of up to 315rwhp. The 1600's I know are overkill for this turbo, but I have them already so why not? :) I did not have any problems with a lean transition that is common among much larger secondaries.

My goal though is not any dyno numbers. I just want a drivable car with some more oomph.

I spend the money when need be, but if the old used part works, might as well keep using it. That's why it looks so rough. That's why I'm always wasting more money in the classified section.

There are many subtle things going on here. A lot of stuff is 5 years old or newer, and has very low mileage. Brake master is brand new, clutch hydraulics are still young with very low mileage. The entire exhaust is brand new. Even though I bought the DP second hand, it had such little use to it, the inside wasn't even sooty! New bushings all around, tie rod ends, struts and springs...

The car will always have this look to it, and that's the way I like it.

Thanks for the feedback, and keep leaving more :)

I wasn't knocking the fact that they're overkill, believe me, if I had them already I'd stick with them too!

I forgot you said you were having the turbo sent to bnr. I had a hybrid somewhere between the stage 1 and stage 2. Just a regular old s5 turbo with a T04B v-trim wheel and .70A/R t04b cover. Very nice turbo, and I still have all the pieces to build it. I'm just afraid of balancing shops around the area now, so I'll be sending it out to evergreen turbo down in FL. The power over stock is very noticeable, although I've never been able to get it on the dyno.... :(

^no no... didn't think you were mocking at all. understood what you meant regarding the 1600's. Turbo already went to BNR, it's the one you see now.

The next thing is to fabricate an under tray. I was thinking cardboard (easy to cut/shape) and coating it in fiberglass. We'll see how that goes... Or I'll just look for some sheet metal.

Sounds crazy, but with my v-mounted radiator/intercooler, I actually see higher temps. I recently added some more ducting to direct airflow, and I re-installed the undertray. I saw temps up to 210F sitting at idle afterwards. I removed the undertray and noticed temps went down to 185F...

Mine is somewhat like that... On a hot day as my car is now, it would not get hot enough idling to even open the t'stat. Driving around town it would not go above 185. On the highway it will not go above 195. All without the undertray!

Make your template from cardboard and use ABS sheet for the final piece.
ABS is cheap (here in Denver a 4' x 8' x 5/16" sheet is @ $80), easily machined and black (so it looks good), I much prefer it to most other options.
The stock belly pan is ABS, so you know the material will hold up.

About the bellypan and coolant temps...
The kneejerk response on this forum is to ask if the pan is installed but my experience mirrors AGreen's and beefhole's...it doesn't seem to matter. My temps don't worsen when it's installed, but they don't improve either.
It is useful as protection for the radiator/oil cooler but as designed by the factory, it doesn't seem very effective controlling airflow.

My tired old NA engine (215k and counting) has no cooling problems but if it did, the stock bellypan would not be part of my solution.

This is very similar to me! I too am building this with a budget in mind, but buying new on things that obviously are important (injectors, rebuilt turbo). In total everything is under $2000 so far.

I need to find a twin scroll solenoid, and find a way to wire it up to the megasquirt. Do you have a diagram you went off of?

Does that master cylinder brace make a difference? I have a local friend who does machining in school and could have him whip me up one.

ABS plastic seems like a good material also. I will have to source some. Who knows though, maybe I'll find the right piece of scrap on the side of the road. It would certainly suit my car. :D I am concerned on running one because of my FMIC, and how the car will perform under high loads.

I used the FSM to determine how the twin scroll works. However, I do think they made a typo! If you follow how the solenoid works, it doesn't make sense that under 2700 it would be OFF/de-energized. It should be ON/energized as to complete the air flow from the manifold to the actuator (thus closing the flapper). When it's OFF, it vents out. You want it to vent the vacuum from the actuator above 2700, that way the exhaust fully opens.

The solenoids are all the same though, they just orient the little filter on them differently. You can always use it visa-versa: OFF/de-energzied and exhaust closed. ON/energized and exhaust open.

I'm the sure megasquirt can do it with a basic output. It's really just a simple RPM switch Turn on at 2700RPM, or the opposite, turn off at 2700RPM.

I hope I explained that correctly :)

The master cylinder brace seems to stiffen things up a bit, helps with the pedal feel. Can't hurt making one cheap if it's available to you.

The brace makes a bigger difference on a FD than a FC but certainly wouldn't hurt.

clokker, you are referring to the front under tray. the belly pan on fc's are 100% aluminum.

and yes, i have logged in the haltech a big difference with the undertray. with undertray and cruising down the highway in 90 degree heat nets me 207 water temps. with the same conditions and undertray i net about 190. id say thats a pretty big cooling advantage.

running corksport rad and stock cooling fan.

^Didn't notice he wrote belly pan. Perhaps it's a misunderstanding. Barely anyone has the belly pan, everyone should have the under tray though IMO.

So whats the story on this IC setup?

Oh, I didn't realize my nomenclature was wrong, thanks for the correction.
My results still stand however, no change to coolant temps with/without the undertray.

I just (semi) confirmed this yesterday as I tested my newly reinstalled Godspeed rad for leaks.
Two runs under more or less identical conditions, back to back, first without (Yay!, no leaks...yet) and then with the undertray.
No temp difference.
I have no explanation or theory to explain this- and I've put the undertray back on (because why not?)- but it makes no difference on my particular car.

I bought a generic size cooler, bought some pipe and couplers, threw it all together an voila! If you check my profile album, you can find the initial build. No removal of internal bumper, no cutting of front bumper cover. I think I only had to bend some metal underneath on the passenger side of the car somewhere near the elbow coupler feeding into the cooler.

Beef- i have a exhaust, its nothing special but its all welded , sitting doing nothing. $100
I bought it for a car i was going to build but nevr used it

:awesome:

D'oh!
So my greddy elbow came in, too bad I realized afterwards that the inlet is about 2-3/4". All the couplers I ordered are on their way and I bought a 2.5". I need a reducer elbow instead :(
ONE LITTLE PIECE damn it!

Anyone have a 2.75 to 2.5 inch reducer silicone elbow coupler :blush:

OK got some doodads in the mail yesterday. Just have to drill and tap the elbow for the AIT sensor.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ole/filter.jpg
Believe it or not, the hood doesn't smash the filter. Seems to be in a sweet spot.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...urboinlet2.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...hole/elbow.jpg
Found an elbow reducer for cheap with free shipping. Ebay is fun!


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...le/engshot.jpg
everything in place

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...le/recycle.jpg
and one for fun

Now all I need is that exhaust...

That intake setup looks like an inverted rb20. Lol @ the sticker, I'm looking for one that "UHEV" ulta high emissions vehicle.

Oh...and what the he'll is "Derpy" ? Sorry its been bugging me every time I read this thread title.

Derpy approves of your thread title and thread contents. Great job, man!
http://fc05.deviantart.net/fs70/f/20...aa-d3j84c6.gif