My track/weekend build and learning how to paint thread!
#202
Hey guys. Some progress!
So you remember how I had that bolt in Cusco/Safety21 cage? Well... this is what we did to it.
Weldy timee
Infini and its bride loll
Doesn't come out well in the pic but thats new black carpet!
My friend's and I also hosted a Japan relief car meet. Here's some pics of my car at that.
Rx7's!
So you remember how I had that bolt in Cusco/Safety21 cage? Well... this is what we did to it.
Weldy timee
Infini and its bride loll
Doesn't come out well in the pic but thats new black carpet!
My friend's and I also hosted a Japan relief car meet. Here's some pics of my car at that.
Rx7's!
#206
Sooo.. not coming out for a while until I get this all solved. Went to driftspeed in los alamitos to get my alignment done.
They straightened it out as much as they good so at least it drives straight now after the power steering install but they found two things.
First, my rear passenger toe is wayy off and they said it was maxed out like 3.5mm. The car was hit by the rear bumper section so we were thinking maybe it was hit on the tire too and tweaked something a bit.
Second, they said that my front left caster was off. Within spec would be between 4.19 and 5.19 and it was 3.11. How do you even change caster? They said they couldn't do it...
On top of all this. My rear camber was all sorts of crazy.
Sooo.. I have decided to get an adjustable camber bar for the subframe, rear camber links, and lateral toe links. The front camber was maxed out on my camber plates and the most it would go was like 1.8-2. How would I get more than that?
#207
Rotary Revolutionary
iTrader: (16)
Yikes! I fear I may get similar news when I finally get an alignment, car was ran off the highway by a ford explorer a few years ago and I have gotten by w/ a homeade "alignment" using toe plates up till now.
Karack makes a rear camber adjuster based off the stock link which could be used for large adjustments and I also have the individual links to even out camber left to right (and because they are probaly too weak to take the whole load by themselves).
As far as caster....that's a bit tougher, you could turn the mounts for your coilovers (seems to be popular w/ the PBM-using drift crowd) This adjusts camber and caster simultaneously.
Karack makes a rear camber adjuster based off the stock link which could be used for large adjustments and I also have the individual links to even out camber left to right (and because they are probaly too weak to take the whole load by themselves).
As far as caster....that's a bit tougher, you could turn the mounts for your coilovers (seems to be popular w/ the PBM-using drift crowd) This adjusts camber and caster simultaneously.
#208
Been a while since I updated but things are sorta wrapping up I guess?
Got new wheels, adjustable camber bar, put on new sideskirts, and next week I am finally sending the car in to get all the suspension and alignment sorted out.
I also got an s5 hotside from finishline and am looking for an s5 turbo manifold so I can get rid of the crappy s4 one.
Once alignment is all set up I am going to ditch these tires and get rear widebody on. Then I will beat the **** outta this car hehe.
Anyway on to pics.
Got new wheels, adjustable camber bar, put on new sideskirts, and next week I am finally sending the car in to get all the suspension and alignment sorted out.
I also got an s5 hotside from finishline and am looking for an s5 turbo manifold so I can get rid of the crappy s4 one.
Once alignment is all set up I am going to ditch these tires and get rear widebody on. Then I will beat the **** outta this car hehe.
Anyway on to pics.
#215
they are bride rails. Got em used locally from a forum member.
tire sizes are 235/45/17. I am running them cuz the alignment is bad so I wanted to run crap tires to move it around without worrying about the alignment wearing the tires. Once everything is aligned and good I have decided on getting toyo r1r probably. Going to get 235 front and 255 rear.
#217
Rotary Enthusiast
IMO... Diffuser for sure. Lower only if it helps handling for you, otherwise leave it. No rear fenders cause they look weird.
Most importantly, get it on a track and take some pics!!
Most importantly, get it on a track and take some pics!!
#221
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I have picked up some used fenders for cheap at the junkyard and want to practice first before taking the plunge with the car on painting it.
If it is not to much to ask, Could you breakdown what tools you use for sanding, painting, etc?
Any Do's and Don't of what you have learned during the process, be it type of bondo, curing time, sandpaper choice, technique?
Instant sub as I follow the pics on how you restore the car, with cool step by step pics. Kudos for a great build!
So it will never see more than 20 psi, for sure you will be redlining that boost gauge.
The cage is a work of art, very nice and clean.
If it is not to much to ask, Could you breakdown what tools you use for sanding, painting, etc?
Any Do's and Don't of what you have learned during the process, be it type of bondo, curing time, sandpaper choice, technique?
Instant sub as I follow the pics on how you restore the car, with cool step by step pics. Kudos for a great build!
So it will never see more than 20 psi, for sure you will be redlining that boost gauge.
The cage is a work of art, very nice and clean.
#222
Sure man,
First thing if you need to use bondo on the fenders is do not use the BONDO brand body filler. It leaves pinholes and is more prone to cracking. We used evercoat z-grip and it was awesome.
When applying the body filler what I did was add a lot of hardener so it would dry faster. I would start sanding again about 30 min after applying but of course I would test it before sanding.
If you can avoid it. Do not use just your hand when sanding. I used pretty long sanding blocks because if you just use your hands the pressure while sanding is uneven and then the surface will come out uneven. I used the sandpaper from the class so I cant really say but they got the sandpaper from an auto paint supply store so maybe that would be a good place to look.
I was using power sanders in class but you could do it by hand, just takes longer. I had a crappy respray so I tried to sand that off with a 150 or 180 grit. Then I smoothed it out with a 300.
Before spraying they have this grease and tar remover that you should most definitely buy and spray onto your parts before spraying them because it gets all the oils and stuff from your hands etc off the part which is better for adhesion.
After primer you should put down a guide coat thats a diff color from your primer. Just mist it on so when you are sanding down the primer you know which parts you did.
For spraying, there was a different primer gun and paint gun. The primer gun had a bigger nozzle because the primer is thicker but we got away with using just a paint gun and thinning the primer. The biggest thing we were told is to have the paint gun always perpendicular to the surface you are painting so the paint goes on evenly across the fan.
Oh, try to wet sand as much as you can. Saves money haha.
Hope that helps!
First thing if you need to use bondo on the fenders is do not use the BONDO brand body filler. It leaves pinholes and is more prone to cracking. We used evercoat z-grip and it was awesome.
When applying the body filler what I did was add a lot of hardener so it would dry faster. I would start sanding again about 30 min after applying but of course I would test it before sanding.
If you can avoid it. Do not use just your hand when sanding. I used pretty long sanding blocks because if you just use your hands the pressure while sanding is uneven and then the surface will come out uneven. I used the sandpaper from the class so I cant really say but they got the sandpaper from an auto paint supply store so maybe that would be a good place to look.
I was using power sanders in class but you could do it by hand, just takes longer. I had a crappy respray so I tried to sand that off with a 150 or 180 grit. Then I smoothed it out with a 300.
Before spraying they have this grease and tar remover that you should most definitely buy and spray onto your parts before spraying them because it gets all the oils and stuff from your hands etc off the part which is better for adhesion.
After primer you should put down a guide coat thats a diff color from your primer. Just mist it on so when you are sanding down the primer you know which parts you did.
For spraying, there was a different primer gun and paint gun. The primer gun had a bigger nozzle because the primer is thicker but we got away with using just a paint gun and thinning the primer. The biggest thing we were told is to have the paint gun always perpendicular to the surface you are painting so the paint goes on evenly across the fan.
Oh, try to wet sand as much as you can. Saves money haha.
Hope that helps!
#223
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Awesome! Every little bit helps, am about to test on those fenders, do appreciate the input.
A buddy told me to set the gun at 10 to 12 inches, and pressure at 10 mto 15 psi.
My car is white, so clearcoat will be a little more expensive compared to other colors.
A buddy told me to set the gun at 10 to 12 inches, and pressure at 10 mto 15 psi.
My car is white, so clearcoat will be a little more expensive compared to other colors.
#224
small update.
signed up for wsir balcony on the 24th for a friends event focusing on car control. Pretty excited. Installed hid foglights and got new origin widebody fenders. Gonna fit them on this week.
fenders. Really pleased with the quality. Just out of the box.
signed up for wsir balcony on the 24th for a friends event focusing on car control. Pretty excited. Installed hid foglights and got new origin widebody fenders. Gonna fit them on this week.
fenders. Really pleased with the quality. Just out of the box.