My soulless S5
. 
08-23-11, 10:42 PM
#31
Retired Moderator, RIP
iTrader: (142)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
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You ever notice that the bins in the FC are just the right size for a case of DEPENDS???.(in case someone ever craps themselves during a ride!)
NICE car man,,Kudos!
NICE car man,,Kudos!
08-31-11, 09:12 PM
#36
Full Member
haha, i was just trying to wire up my lq4's coolant fan through the stock wiring
the rx7 has the most RIDICULOUS WIRING
how do ANY of you not go NUTS maintaining / troubleshooting them?
i love rotaries, i love v8s... but like, holy crap!
the rx7 has the most RIDICULOUS WIRING
how do ANY of you not go NUTS maintaining / troubleshooting them?
i love rotaries, i love v8s... but like, holy crap!
09-04-11, 11:03 AM
#37
After literally months of waiting, I finally got my axles (the axle vendor was being slow, I didn't really need them anyway):
Since no one has ever used these axles (they're on one other RX-7 currently) time will tell how much power they will hold.
09-11-11, 08:45 AM
#40
Got my AEM wideband and boost gauges with a 2 pillar pod. I think they look pretty slick... if only they weren't $400 lol :biggthump
Also a picture of yours truly next to my creation... this was when it had the LS1 in it. My dad is so proud of it he just needed to get a picture lol
Also a picture of yours truly next to my creation... this was when it had the LS1 in it. My dad is so proud of it he just needed to get a picture lol
09-18-11, 10:07 AM
#42
Less powerful, yes. Lower compression, yes. Also, they're much less expensive than LS1s. The extra displacement helps out, too.
Keep in mind guys that even with the turbo setup/iron block I won't have gained any overall weight because I no longer have heat/AC/power steering.
Here's my FMIC mounted up:
I'm going to tear it back off along with the rest of the wiring out front and give it a new paint job. Yes, I know it will be covered by a bumper, but that's how I roll
Keep in mind guys that even with the turbo setup/iron block I won't have gained any overall weight because I no longer have heat/AC/power steering.
Here's my FMIC mounted up:
I'm going to tear it back off along with the rest of the wiring out front and give it a new paint job. Yes, I know it will be covered by a bumper, but that's how I roll
09-18-11, 07:05 PM
#43
Yeah it's only like 100lbs more (fully loaded block with all the chev accessories...) and about $2000 cheaper lol.
Are you going to rip apart the driver side bay harness as well? Because I'm going to start on mine but would like to see how painful it is to clean that mess up.
Also, did you make your engine harness or did you get one from Hinson?
Thanks for answering the questions!
Are you going to rip apart the driver side bay harness as well? Because I'm going to start on mine but would like to see how painful it is to clean that mess up.
Also, did you make your engine harness or did you get one from Hinson?
Thanks for answering the questions!
09-24-11, 09:46 AM
#44
The drivers side harness only needs minimal trimming. I just removed the part of it that was the engine harness and left the rest alone.
I bought my engine harness from a member on the No Rotors forums. I've been very happy with it so far.
Alright, so I finally got the IC finished up (still need to do piping, but I have to get the motor in to do that and I still need to find an oil pan/windage tray/pickup tube):
The top is hard mounted:
I wanted some play in the IC, so I used these cut down rubber stops to help protect what little movement it may have (the IC pipes will hold it even more securely):
HID ballasts mounted way out of the way (don't mine the small amount of over spray
):
And a view from the back:
I bought my engine harness from a member on the No Rotors forums. I've been very happy with it so far.
Alright, so I finally got the IC finished up (still need to do piping, but I have to get the motor in to do that and I still need to find an oil pan/windage tray/pickup tube):
The top is hard mounted:
I wanted some play in the IC, so I used these cut down rubber stops to help protect what little movement it may have (the IC pipes will hold it even more securely):
HID ballasts mounted way out of the way (don't mine the small amount of over spray
):And a view from the back:
10-04-11, 02:12 PM
#46
I noticed in one of your other forum threads that you're using the Ronin 8.8 mount.
You said that it requires no cutting or welding but on the No Rotors website, it says you have to weld the 3rd mount. Did they update the design? What all do you need to source out with the kit?
You said that it requires no cutting or welding but on the No Rotors website, it says you have to weld the 3rd mount. Did they update the design? What all do you need to source out with the kit?
10-04-11, 02:17 PM
#47
I noticed in one of your other forum threads that you're using the Ronin 8.8 mount.
You said that it requires no cutting or welding but on the No Rotors website, it says you have to weld the 3rd mount. Did they update the design? What all do you need to source out with the kit?
You said that it requires no cutting or welding but on the No Rotors website, it says you have to weld the 3rd mount. Did they update the design? What all do you need to source out with the kit?
I'm a beta tester so the only things I got were the complete mount kit and the half shafts. I still need to get CVs, the rear end itself, and Mazdaspeed bushings for the mount, but the final kit comes with everything. They're aiming for $1,800 I think for everything.
10-04-11, 02:55 PM
#49
Yes I'm hoping it's reliable. I could probably get by with the TII diff with my TH400 if it wasn't for the 4.10 gear ratio...
Some very small updates:
Got my roll bar today (AutoPower 4 point "race" roll bar). I'm having it powder coated black.
I also took the heads off of my 6.0 today. Found some major scoring in cylinder wall #3. This reaffirms my decision to put in a forged rotating assembly (I know I could get by with a hone and new rings, but what's the point of putting stock stuff back in if I'm going through all the work anyway?)
The motor looks like it was used pretty hard - lots of build up, etc. but other than the scoring looks to be intact.
Some very small updates:
Got my roll bar today (AutoPower 4 point "race" roll bar). I'm having it powder coated black.
I also took the heads off of my 6.0 today. Found some major scoring in cylinder wall #3. This reaffirms my decision to put in a forged rotating assembly (I know I could get by with a hone and new rings, but what's the point of putting stock stuff back in if I'm going through all the work anyway?)
The motor looks like it was used pretty hard - lots of build up, etc. but other than the scoring looks to be intact.
