JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

thanks alot man, just got a alot of small stuff to take care of, then as soon as I get my tax check its going to speed 1 for tune and a check over.. I just want to leave it there and tell them to call me when it runs like a raped ******* ape
as for all the people who say the 044 is loud you guys are ****** and have never heard an a1000... the 044 is soo quite..
and the wires on the tank top are black and white for power and the black wire needs to be grounded

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

took care of some minor ****
filled the trans shifter housing with new fluid, installed my short shifter with all new bushings, gaskets, and rubber boots.
the only wiring left if for the 2 step and tach already have the connectors needed, just need to run the wires..
was abled to drive the car in and out of the garage on it own power for the first time since the summer, nice feeling, still go a bunch of small stuff to take care of but its getting there later if I have time ill run the last wires..
I also got the itch for some JDM parts and ordered a brand new set of OEM Mazda japan window visors thanks to circuit theorie. after I finish getting the car running right ill focus on collecting exterior bits..
I have a video of my first start its just me getting all giggity lol when I put it on youtube ill post it up

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

Got every thing all wired, gotta just fix the leaks shouldn't be too difficult.. I hope..lol
Gotta deflood it and charge the battery she should start right up then I'm going for a drive..
Ordered new steering surrounds today from Mazdatrix. Got the whole interior cleaned and put together and one of the only things that's been broken on everyone of my 7s is the steering surround so I said **** it and bought them new

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

If it wast 2 degrees out without wind chill I'd of put in work today lol...
Fixed the leaks on Sunday. Gotta finish bleeding the brakes and coolant system, change the trans bottom gasket, fill the trans, get it tuned. Once it's tuned I'll get the exhaust redone and hotside ic pipe. Then I can focus on the interior and exterior.. Got my jdm window visors for a nice start..
Got my taxs done today just gotta wait a few weeks to get it done

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

A little walk around

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

Tubby bought a new S5 na with spirit re in it. Im thinking about throwing the already ported tii manifolds on with a fuel system and tune.. Then when he collects all hi turbo stuff I can just slap it on and retune for boost.. Can I throw ID1000&2000 injectors in and have them tuned down enough to run the na legitimately for the time being?
Should be picking up hanks motor stuff from Goopy with in the next couple weeks.. So I can get his beast brapping.. he went huge, full BP, S5 Irons, large port S4 housings resurfaced, S4 rotating assembly, race bearings, fd oil pressure reg, over sized bolts. Should be disgusting with GT45 strapped on her
My car Needs alittle more work then I'll be killing it

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

Bump ....car should be bak wednesday getting it on trhe dyno. Making moves on tubbys and hanks car. Hanks motor is built Johnaton at Goopy did a great job as usual preping all the parts, he also cnc bridged ported the plates, just waitin on a few parts for the front cover and itll be all buttoned up.. tubbys car got ripped aprt new manifolds braided ss line rails and fuel system, custom short turbo manifold turbonetic 60-1 turbo and 40 mm wastegate. should be fun got the spirit re harness out to ludwig so should be hitting the road end of spring

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

I've seen ID2000's run smoothly on a stock civic, don't see how they wouldn't work for your friend!

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

well 1000 2000 are already in so wells e how that works. hanks going 2000 2000 running a flexfuel sensor so he can get crazy when he finds some ethonal hell be running a big boy pump happy saint pattys day btw

Stringbean

iTrader: (1)

Walk around looks good man! It's always the small **** with these cars eh! What lim are you using? I'm waiting for a response from a guy and am slightly confused why to use with a fd uim, is it a s5 na lim or tii s5 lim? Keep it going!

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

which trans "bottom gasket" are you talking about?

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

The tii trans pan is the rectangle metal piece that the drain plugs on. Got that gasket taken care of, but appearently my brand new trans output seal leaks still on my new exhaust.. Had speedone make me a 3.5 inch DP and cut out the muffler and presilencer in my corksport exhaust and replace them with vibrant presilencer and magnaflow muffler to quite it down a bit, no more stupid tailpipe buttplug.
Dave also took care of my hot side intercooler pipe spun the compressor housing on the turbo upside Down, shortened the piping and got rid of my coupler mess. He also mounted and finished up my oil catch can for me so I can use my mazdaspeed cap.
The cars been done they had dyno issues which got taken care of but push back all tuning 4 days so Wednesday I hope to be driving home in my 400 whp pump only beast.
In the next few months I hope to setup a water meth system thru the haltech go back and see what she can really do.
I have a ton of pix on hanks build ill post up when I get to the comp

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

I use a custom adaptor to run a S4 tii lim. It's a lot easier to use a S5 tii lim. No NA stuff is used

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

Here's a few teasers

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

those fruitcakes.... what's with the game remotes? lol.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

I clearanced the rotors in my room on the coffee table. lets just say the gf wasnt happy about it

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

everyone needs a little iron in their diet.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

well obviously some one upstairs ******* hates my guts, and doesnt ever want me to brap like I should, no matter the time effort and money, I **** down the rotary drain, I can never prevail...
This all starts after a 13hr day at speed1, left at 730am sat for hours to get the car on the dyno, finally after so many issues, Brian gets my to4r at 14lbs makes 302 to the wheels.. horsepowers low but I dont care. I was soo happy to finally drive my car. Got home at 9pm didnt rip on the car basically the whole way home because my alignment was soo bad itd barely drive regular speeds let alone boost.
I also, noticed that on decell that my a/f were reading below tens and blowing mad smoke, I figured they didnt turn on the decell fuel cut like it was where on decell my a/f would goto 19. Figured id just call dave today and ask about it..
parked the car got up in the morning early to goto work, started it up took alittle cranking but whatevre it started, warmed it up for a few while I was inside my apt. got in temps at 160 goto get on it and it stutters wtf.. temp hits 180 gotta try it again and it moves like lightning, ok soo I figure it needs some cold tuning idk
what ever get to work did my alignment tidiyed up so loose ends put my undercover on ect.. drive it, like a new car im supped. so after having the whole shop bugging me for a ride all day.
I go out to the car start her up warm it up to 180. get on the highway with my buddy ok goto get on it next thing I know theres smoke everywhere,, but the car still runns ok? get it back to the shop open the hood found the whole bay and everything completely covered in oil, omg wtf looking at the dowel on the rear its not leaking wtf pull the cracksensor connectior off and have a buddy crank it, cracked the ******* front plate.
Im so upset idk what to do I spent the next 2 hours tearing down my brand new blown up car. I called dave and left a message hopefully hell call me back tomorrow idk if hes gonna help me or not or what Im so lost for words.
So what do you guys think happend? should I be responsible for this? I havent even gotten to drive the ******* thing.
end rant Ill be masterbating with my own tears tonight

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

anyone know why my front plate cracked? not like I was making too much power

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

broken endplates are usually due to detonation, caused by timing, an excessive lean spot in tuning or fuel system related issue.

i would seriously consider putting some studs in the block to prevent future failures with these early thin cast blocks. the later model engines can handle quite a bit more detonation before the dowels will crack. studs add a bit of lateral support to the engine, as well i torque the tension bolts down an additional 5ft/lbs to 33 ft/lbs.

sometimes the problem can lie in the timing pulley on the FC engines, if it is the known original pulley from an unopened block then it should be correct. after many years and some engine rebuilders swapping pulleys the timing can be quite a ways off in either direction and be the cause of some failures.

should he be held accountable? you can certainly try, if the map is known to be the cause of the failure, the decel fuel cut won't be the cause so rule that out. is timing too far advanced or tuned for above 11AFR? did he use his own wideband? i personally ONLY warranty engines i build and tune together, i will not warranty a car i do not know because there are thousands of variables that can cause failures. and i am an exception, most shops give 0 warranty on tuning even if they build the engine, because the car can still have underlying issues and sometimes i get shot in the foot and the result will be raised labor rates to reflect this(no shop can really be competetive in pricing AND hold themselves accountable for all the unknowns, these cars are old and each has a personality of their own).

sometimes it takes time to sort through and find root causes. for example i have built and tuned hundreds of cars without issue, but one car in particular has eaten 3 engines now and i still can't find the root cause, meanwhile it busts my ***** sitting there mocking me. instead of pushing it to the maximum potential myself and the owner decided enough was enough and stepped it back a bit(i originally wanted to beat the hybrid record for HP with this car but i gave up on that). i've put nearly 400 labor hours into the car for free and it has definitely taken its toll on my demeanor of this business.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

I talked to both dave and goopy today. they said it just happens on these plates, once you start pushing them... im on my own, on this one. Soo, what did I do? I ripped, the ******* motor out and tore it down to a shortblock. so its in my garage now I need to source a set of S5 plates. im gonna have goopy oversize put some over sized bolts in for me too. I hope theres no other hidden issues, as of now I just need some new plates.. Im not giving up more motivation to spite the rotary curse...

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

generally at about 350whp and above you may see it naturally occur but below that it isn't all that natural.

you don't need s5 plates, the front and center are the same as yours and the rears at least 97% of s5 turbo cars produced had the same casting as the series 4 rear dowel, once you stud the engine it will be as strong as if you put the thick cast rear iron on. the last thick cast rear iron i got was brand new and cost $500. i sold a thick cast one to the same customer i mentioned above for this current overhaul and charged him $275 for a used one and it still doesn't address the possibility of breaking a front iron, but that is a very rare occurrence.

i would start to question the power output from the engine. was it broken in(wear surfaces and apex seals all shiny?), was it timed before being tuned and did the tuner check the timing? have you verified the pulley is correctly timed to TDC? is the fuel pump losing volume when warm(lowered fuel pressure under boost)? was the ECU tuned correctly(have it looked at by other tuners)? was there any misfiring under load on the dyno indicating weak ignition or a fuel problem(generally can be seen on the graph unless it has tons of smoothing)?

if it happened to one of my builds i would very seriously suspect something was wrong before eating up another engine(even bulletproofing just causes other things to fail).

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

Well there was a good amout of detonation in the motor if I had been running stock seals the whole motor would of been destroyed..
Well after getting beat on a set of plates and a lot of hard work. Here I am back to say I will prevail.. Here's some eye candy.
New front plate, re resurfaced rotor housings, 7 oversized bolts. If this motors goes again its cracking right down the center.
Big thanks to Jonathan at Goopy for helping me with everything.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

The plates in the background are hanks, tore down the motor to go semi pp. he'll be getting the rotors scalloped, side clearanced, and balanced. It'll be a huge turbo, half bp, semi pp. basically race car. He'll be running Cosmo re intake manis. Will be a scary car..

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

holy ****. I guess I haven't looked in on your thread in a while because I had no idea the engine went. sorry to hear about it, man. I know it had to be a heartbreaker to have that happen, but i'm glad you're keeping at it.

on another note, how sure are you that your ignition is completely sorted? I remember a few years ago there was a guy that busted like 3 front housings and if I recall, a part of his issue was crossfiring. just something I thought i'd put out there so hopefully, this time around you'll be able to enjoy the fruits of your labor. good luck.