My 90 FC and my plans
12-25-12, 01:52 PM
#1
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My 90 FC and my plans
so I bought this shell of an FC off this dude for 1k, he had taken the engine out of it and put it in the hatch except the block, which he threw in the back yard... but theres no engine and only 80k miles on it, black paint black interior, automatic
, interior is in 9/10 exterior is in about 8/10. Its got an auto tranny in it right now and no engine, so I am going to buy a turbo 2 motor with manual trans and swap it in.. I am wondering if those are easy swaps, I am most worried about the tranny swap because I havent worked on anything like that before
, interior is in 9/10 exterior is in about 8/10. Its got an auto tranny in it right now and no engine, so I am going to buy a turbo 2 motor with manual trans and swap it in.. I am wondering if those are easy swaps, I am most worried about the tranny swap because I havent worked on anything like that before
12-25-12, 08:03 PM
#2
If you buy the turbo engine w/ trans (BTW, be SURE to get the transmission crossmember with it all), there's not much traditional swapping work to be done.
Seems to me though that I've read there's a difference in the mount points between the auto and manual trans and the old mount points must be removed and the manual ones welded in to the trans tunnel.
Or something like that.
12-26-12, 08:06 AM
#3
Well, lucky you. The automatic transmission driveshaft will slip in to the turbo manual transmission, and still bolt up to the differential flange. It's a little short, so you may want to get it lengthened a little. Otherwise, get all the sensors and ECU from the turbo engine, use the NA harness and modify it (it makes for an easier install). You'll need some sort of exhaust as well, since the TII exhaust is different from the engine to the y-pipe. The fuel pump has to get changed out, and you'll either need a TII hood or a front mount intercooler. There are plenty of TII swap FAQs floating around, I suggest you read them all.
Good Luck
12-26-12, 01:42 PM
#6
Correct. The mounts on the chassis are different. The best way to do it is to cut the mounts out of a manual car and weld them in. You could also make an adapter/bracket to bolt the manual and auto crossmembers together. There is good info at rotaryresurrection.com for the swap.
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12-27-12, 06:52 AM
#8
Do you know a mechanic/shop who could do such a thing?
It is not a trivial project, although for the most part, it's not terribly demanding physically.
Lifting in the engine/trans and welding in the trans mount (if that's the way you go) are the two things that might be difficult for the shadetree mechanic, everything else is pretty straightforward.
Unfortunately, "everything else" is quite a lot of work and most mechanics aren't willing to marry your project car.
It is not a trivial project, although for the most part, it's not terribly demanding physically.
Lifting in the engine/trans and welding in the trans mount (if that's the way you go) are the two things that might be difficult for the shadetree mechanic, everything else is pretty straightforward.
Unfortunately, "everything else" is quite a lot of work and most mechanics aren't willing to marry your project car.
12-27-12, 08:05 AM
#9
More musings...
Identify the most difficult stage of the project (in your case, I'd say it's the trans mount) and deal with it first.
Don't do all the easy ****, thinking you're "working up to it"...you're simply avoiding the inevitable and postponing the pain.
While you acquire the new drivetrain (or do you already have it?), realize that work in the bay will never be as easy as it is now, while it's empty.
Any cleaning, wiring repair, brake work, etc. only gets more difficult with the engine in place.
When fully stripped, the bay looks deceptively large (I know, having basically lived in mine for about 8 weeks this fall) but once the motor goes in, it fills up fast.
Also, be aware that the swap is going to lead you to nearly every nook and cranny of the car, it ain't just under the hood.
For instance, the dash will need to come out to install the new pedal box (and it's easier to replace the EM harness then, too).
You'll be in the fuel tank, replacing the pump.
Under the car for the exhaust.
Oh, the places you'll go!
Identify the most difficult stage of the project (in your case, I'd say it's the trans mount) and deal with it first.
Don't do all the easy ****, thinking you're "working up to it"...you're simply avoiding the inevitable and postponing the pain.
While you acquire the new drivetrain (or do you already have it?), realize that work in the bay will never be as easy as it is now, while it's empty.
Any cleaning, wiring repair, brake work, etc. only gets more difficult with the engine in place.
When fully stripped, the bay looks deceptively large (I know, having basically lived in mine for about 8 weeks this fall) but once the motor goes in, it fills up fast.
Also, be aware that the swap is going to lead you to nearly every nook and cranny of the car, it ain't just under the hood.
For instance, the dash will need to come out to install the new pedal box (and it's easier to replace the EM harness then, too).
You'll be in the fuel tank, replacing the pump.
Under the car for the exhaust.
Oh, the places you'll go!
12-27-12, 11:51 AM
#10
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More musings...
Identify the most difficult stage of the project (in your case, I'd say it's the trans mount) and deal with it first.
Don't do all the easy ****, thinking you're "working up to it"...you're simply avoiding the inevitable and postponing the pain.
While you acquire the new drivetrain (or do you already have it?), realize that work in the bay will never be as easy as it is now, while it's empty.
Any cleaning, wiring repair, brake work, etc. only gets more difficult with the engine in place.
When fully stripped, the bay looks deceptively large (I know, having basically lived in mine for about 8 weeks this fall) but once the motor goes in, it fills up fast.
Also, be aware that the swap is going to lead you to nearly every nook and cranny of the car, it ain't just under the hood.
For instance, the dash will need to come out to install the new pedal box (and it's easier to replace the EM harness then, too).
You'll be in the fuel tank, replacing the pump.
Under the car for the exhaust.
Oh, the places you'll go!
Identify the most difficult stage of the project (in your case, I'd say it's the trans mount) and deal with it first.
Don't do all the easy ****, thinking you're "working up to it"...you're simply avoiding the inevitable and postponing the pain.
While you acquire the new drivetrain (or do you already have it?), realize that work in the bay will never be as easy as it is now, while it's empty.
Any cleaning, wiring repair, brake work, etc. only gets more difficult with the engine in place.
When fully stripped, the bay looks deceptively large (I know, having basically lived in mine for about 8 weeks this fall) but once the motor goes in, it fills up fast.
Also, be aware that the swap is going to lead you to nearly every nook and cranny of the car, it ain't just under the hood.
For instance, the dash will need to come out to install the new pedal box (and it's easier to replace the EM harness then, too).
You'll be in the fuel tank, replacing the pump.
Under the car for the exhaust.
Oh, the places you'll go!
12-27-12, 01:19 PM
#11
Once you have the transmission mounted, you're just doing a run of the mill NA>turbo swap...any such build thread should potentially be useful.
You'll ultimately want the t2 diff and axles, so you may as well get the turbo driveshaft as well.
And don't forget the gauge cluster.
I enjoy spending your money.
You'll ultimately want the t2 diff and axles, so you may as well get the turbo driveshaft as well.
And don't forget the gauge cluster.
I enjoy spending your money.
12-28-12, 03:27 PM
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thanks clokker I found some good stuff, I was searching on this forum and it keep bringing up new posts that where irrelevant.. i'll be ordering my engine hopefully in 2 weeks, then the fun starts hah. I am not the best mechanic right now but I feel like I can do it with the people on this forums help.tomorrow Im taking out the auto trans and the exhaust, then cleaning my bay better.. and my wiring harness looks real dry rotted or just really old. the car was sitting for atleast 6 months before I bought it but the connections on the wires look fine.. hmm
12-28-12, 08:25 PM
#16
Most of what you'll be doing is simple "bolt it on" type stuff and because it's stock, the FSM will provide plenty of visual info.
Improving your skills as a mechanic is a lifelong endeavour and a widely varied skillset to absorb. Speed is your enemy until it's coupled with accuracy and efficiency, so take all the time you need.
The tape wrap and plastic split tube in the harness are just dried out, the wires underneath are probably in as new condition.
Consider these few suggestions:
-Before you mess with the harness (which you'll have to do at the very least to properly clean the bay), take pictures. Think you have enough? You don't. Think you'll remember? You won't.
Take lots and lots of close up pics...then take more.
-Figure out a way to label connectors. Permanent or temporary, doesn't matter...unplug something, mark it. There are tons of unused/diagnostic plugs present, mark them so you don't go crazy trying to find a matching plug for something that doesn't have one. Diagnostic plugs are green, so that makes it easier.
-You can unwrap the harness and reloom it without too much trouble (although it is sticky, messy and tedious) but there are a few downsides doing this. All the "memory" that heat and age has baked into the harness will be gone. The shape will be different, all the curves and bends, gone.
Going back to complete OEM fit will be insanely difficult.
You'll get about 85-90% no problem, the last little details will drive you crazy if you let them.
This is where the pics will help.
-Unless you are willing to study and understand the entire system, resist the urge to "prune out the unnecessary wiring"...that will only end in tears.
Oh, it's gonna be fun.
Improving your skills as a mechanic is a lifelong endeavour and a widely varied skillset to absorb. Speed is your enemy until it's coupled with accuracy and efficiency, so take all the time you need.
Consider these few suggestions:
-Before you mess with the harness (which you'll have to do at the very least to properly clean the bay), take pictures. Think you have enough? You don't. Think you'll remember? You won't.
Take lots and lots of close up pics...then take more.
-Figure out a way to label connectors. Permanent or temporary, doesn't matter...unplug something, mark it. There are tons of unused/diagnostic plugs present, mark them so you don't go crazy trying to find a matching plug for something that doesn't have one. Diagnostic plugs are green, so that makes it easier.
-You can unwrap the harness and reloom it without too much trouble (although it is sticky, messy and tedious) but there are a few downsides doing this. All the "memory" that heat and age has baked into the harness will be gone. The shape will be different, all the curves and bends, gone.
Going back to complete OEM fit will be insanely difficult.
You'll get about 85-90% no problem, the last little details will drive you crazy if you let them.
This is where the pics will help.
-Unless you are willing to study and understand the entire system, resist the urge to "prune out the unnecessary wiring"...that will only end in tears.
Oh, it's gonna be fun.
12-28-12, 08:52 PM
#17
Buy a box of ziploc bags and write on them with sharpie where each bolt/retainer/small part came from as they come off. If you need it later, you'll be able to go right to it without haste. This eliminates the always aggravating game "find the bolt", and also usually prevents people from trying to jam the wrong size bolt in whatever random hole with soft metal threads.
Where are you ordering your engine from? Don't tell me it's going to be one of those JDM import websites that shows you a video of them doing a compression test of the engine?
Where are you ordering your engine from? Don't tell me it's going to be one of those JDM import websites that shows you a video of them doing a compression test of the engine?
12-28-12, 10:14 PM
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I still havent figured out something for the engine, all the websites look sketchy. does anyone know the best place to get an engine? I need everything on it too and hopefully the downpipe..
and I bought the car with the engine already taken out so I have a bunch of bolts and stuff in cups.. have to sort through them tomorrow but I think I will have extras everywhere
and I bought the car with the engine already taken out so I have a bunch of bolts and stuff in cups.. have to sort through them tomorrow but I think I will have extras everywhere
12-29-12, 08:06 AM
#19
Try contacting forum member Japan2LA. I heard he's hard to get in contact with sometimes, but he apparently always sells quality products. He won't import the engine if it's garbage. Otherwise, look for someone local selling an engine and bring a compression gauge when you go to check it out.
12-31-12, 12:25 PM
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darn I need somewhere to get an engine, I have my old block but its pretty messed up, I would need to get a new exhaust manifold and a bunch of other stuff thats bent up on it
01-02-13, 06:54 PM
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Good luck. I was planning to do the same. If you go to rotary resurrection website it has a breakdown of everything you need to do. I purchased all the parts first to do it then I found a sweet deal on a FD. So I sold the FC and still have a shed full of parts. Lol!
02-12-13, 03:29 PM
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update.. I just got enough money for the engine, now I just have to find one to buy. If anyone has bought any of the 13b s5 turbo engines off a website and got treated nice please send me their way.
Also I dont think I have enough money for the manual swap as of right now.. only about 2k total to spend on her. I Was just going to put the motor in her and daily drive it until I make enough money for the tranny swap. pictures coming tomorrow when it isn't storming
Also I dont think I have enough money for the manual swap as of right now.. only about 2k total to spend on her. I Was just going to put the motor in her and daily drive it until I make enough money for the tranny swap. pictures coming tomorrow when it isn't storming
02-13-13, 02:18 PM
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89 92 Mazda RX7 13BT Turbo Engine JDM Mazda RX 7 13B FC3S Turbo Rotory Engine | eBay
this is the engine I Am thinking about buying.. looks good from the pictures, comes with tranny ecu and wiring. IS this the right wiring needed for the swap?
this is the engine I Am thinking about buying.. looks good from the pictures, comes with tranny ecu and wiring. IS this the right wiring needed for the swap?