my 88 SE gets a royal make over
07-04-13, 12:32 PM
#31
The sensor can't be calibrated properly... With a vacuum leak, the idle would be richer. 21AFR is impossible on a gasoline internal combustion engine. That's so lean it would die instantly. Fuel cutoff is 22.4! Even though you fixed the leak, 14.5 seems wayyyy too lean for idle on any 13B (unless renesis because of sideport exhaust). I think your wideband is going cookoo (for cocoa puffs).
07-05-13, 10:30 PM
#35
I'm having a strange problem where when I push in the clutch the idle jumps up and surges from 1000 to 1500 rpms. Why? Also I finally some 930 octane and hit 15 psi (afr's in the 9's), it broke loose on 245's in 2nd gear when peak boost hit and threw me back like a rocket.can't wait to finish tuning and do a dyno run to see where I'm at.
07-06-13, 02:03 AM
#36
Not that its a big issue now, but I have a PalmOS emulator on my laptop running inside a window xp vm using VirtualPC 2007. Pass the serial from 64bit Windows 7 to the vm as com1 and the palm emulator talks to the ecu. Its really no less cumbersome to change maps, but there is no bs about the cable coming just slightly loose and dropping connection or poor battery life my m515 gets on the original battery. Which means quality data logs =D
07-08-13, 05:08 PM
#38
i picked up a 32-bit version of windows 7 from a friend and installed it on an older laptop of mine that the operating system has **** the bed on, this should take care of my palm issues. I've been dealing with a shitty surging idle as well, im assuming i need to close up the double throttle plates on the TB as i am rather sure i have no vacuum leaks after a starting fluid style leak test. full throttle is intense. i'll get some videos of it up and running once i take care of this embarrassing idle.
07-09-13, 12:51 AM
#40
hmm another person from new england with a red t2 besides me lol . well t2 swaped i got the bac vavle if u need it still im in ri if u need any random parts . and i herd there is something on the clutch switch that tell it to switch idle . i was gonna do the rtek but i did the power fc plug n play best thing ive ever got for my fc
07-09-13, 10:17 AM
#41
I have a buddy with a red 86' sport and another with a red 87' TII swapped to n/a and his dad has a black 88' vert. rx7's seem to be a pack animal haha. i'm okay without the BAC for now, i'm going to see how well i can tune the idle to hold on my own anyways i need it no lower than 900 rpm's anyways to keep my alternator charging (fd alt with fc dual alt pully machined to fit).
sounds like we have a pretty similar setup, what kind of numbers/ 1/4 mile times are you putting down? how much boost are you running?
sounds like we have a pretty similar setup, what kind of numbers/ 1/4 mile times are you putting down? how much boost are you running?
07-10-13, 10:12 PM
#42
Tuning is going slow but well, I would recommend using 900/1600cc injectors to anyone with a similar setup. I haven't had any complaints using them, this is my first time tuning, i'm seeing idle afr's around 13.8, I have cruising rpms afrs dialed in to between 12's-14's, afr's in the high 11's through 6 psi and low 11's through 12.5 psi which is my current peak boost. my lowest correction anywhere on my map is 30%. Now that I've gotten more used to using the RTEK ecu it's the best thing i've ever bought for my car.
07-13-13, 09:51 AM
#44
I'm having a problem with my afr's being inconsistent by a couple points from changes in outside temperature and gear. at peak boost, on the same tune, same day I saw consistent high 11's, then a little later as high as 13's and that night down into the high 10's. what can be causing these drastic changes?
07-14-13, 12:42 PM
#45
13's at 10+ PSI is real bad news... You're lucky!
AFR's are pretty normal though. Cooler (night time) air tells the computer to add more fuel. But also if you're in a different gear, you're loading your engine different. Same thing with uphills and downhills. It's going to vary, especially in our older cars with older engine computers that can't adapt as fast to changing conditions. Heat soak can also play a factor.
My car idles rich (in the low 12's), but every now and then after driving a while it will read in the 13's. Driving will also vary 1-1.5 points depending on the weather. That's why you should tune during the winter at least in 3rd gear, because that's the time your engine will be getting the best/coolest air and make it's most power.
You're lucky up there in NH, it's hot and humid here in NY ever since the summer started I can't even drive my car
AFR's are pretty normal though. Cooler (night time) air tells the computer to add more fuel. But also if you're in a different gear, you're loading your engine different. Same thing with uphills and downhills. It's going to vary, especially in our older cars with older engine computers that can't adapt as fast to changing conditions. Heat soak can also play a factor.
My car idles rich (in the low 12's), but every now and then after driving a while it will read in the 13's. Driving will also vary 1-1.5 points depending on the weather. That's why you should tune during the winter at least in 3rd gear, because that's the time your engine will be getting the best/coolest air and make it's most power.
You're lucky up there in NH, it's hot and humid here in NY ever since the summer started I can't even drive my car
07-14-13, 08:50 PM
#47
I think it's just something that's a little more difficult with big secondaries. We both have 1600's. Just a slight percentage change on those still means a lot more fuel than a smaller injector, and can make all the difference. Probably just something that's going to happen. But I'm no expert, so maybe you can see what the guys in the tech sections know.
PS
I guess we both get the "shitty" weather
PS
I guess we both get the "shitty" weather
08-04-13, 09:14 PM
#48
just picked up a set of 255/40-17 rear tires and ordered a godspeed aluminum radiator!
tuning the rtek has been going pretty well, i have seen any more bad lean spikes. I am seeing somewhat lean cruising afr's sometimes as high as 16.0 somewhere between 8 inhg and 0 inhg. is this normal/safe? no matter how much fuel i add to that pressure/rpm range it doesnt really change it. my afrs will just richen up when im under more and less load conditions..
tuning the rtek has been going pretty well, i have seen any more bad lean spikes. I am seeing somewhat lean cruising afr's sometimes as high as 16.0 somewhere between 8 inhg and 0 inhg. is this normal/safe? no matter how much fuel i add to that pressure/rpm range it doesnt really change it. my afrs will just richen up when im under more and less load conditions..
