shit you needs to come down to san jose to help me with my engine. :lol:

what was the total cost of your motor swap? and did you get the engine from one of those websites? i've heard they can not be trusted, and have seen countless vids of sr20's with rod knock and all that kinda stuff.. i'm just wondering for future reference..

Hey I'm looking for a new tire size to run on my vics, would you mind taking a pic of how your rear tires fit?

looks good. should wire tuck that drivers side harness though. makes the bay look so silky smooth and clean.

Niceee! Yah I tend to do looks first because if I look at my car and it looks like terrible, I tend to beat on it more. Still kind of butt hurt since you beat me to that sexy style hood vent hahah.

Doubt I'll be over in that area anytime soon, but if I do I'll let you know in advance. I wouldn't mind helping out.

I got it off a private seller here on rx7club. Went to go check out the motor and the guy seemed like an honest seller so I trusted him when he said it was a strong motor. Compression numbers proved him to be right which made me quite happy. Total I spent about $1300 for final product, keep in mind I'm still n/a drivetrain though. Set a price that you don't want to go over when swapping your motor, and then add 300-500 on top of that. Theres always small things that you're going to spend money on and it just adds up quick.

I know its an old picture but I'm running the same setup in the rear. Also, keep in mind that I shaved my fenders since a roll seemed like too much work. I still have room for a 5mm slip on spacer for the rear.
Attachment 717074

Attachment 717075



I'm debating if I want to get rid of my leaky powersteering first since that seems to take up the most room on the drivers side. And then worry about tucking the driver side harness. I'm guessing run it through the fender? Haven't seen many wire tuck pics for an fc.

Theres a hole on the firewall with a rubber plug in it. If you enlarge it, the harness goes through there:
Attachment 717076

Then route it above the fender on the frame rail with zip ties (picture shows "in process", it actually ended up higher and in a safer location):
https://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a...l/IMG_0709.jpg

Then theres a long skinny hole in the frame area where you can string the passenger headlight harness through to the front of the car along with the fuse box (no picture of that sorry)

End result is this:
Attachment 717077

You gonna let that top mount breathe?

Thank you, those two pics were helpful

ya i was just hinking the same thing, looks like you might want to look for a TII hood or somthing like that

fuck that.. FRONT MOUNT! :D

v mount bro front mount will kill the look of it i think

Wow... someone needs to inform you rx-7 guys of F6 braided sleeving. That there looks so nasty compared to the rest of your project.

My Fuel Pump rewire, ran out of black braided sleeve use corrugated loom that came with the kit for the in between section.
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...25836565_n.jpg

My engine harness. Got a killer deal on the blue, didn't care about color can't see it anyways.

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...37748364_n.jpg

I'm in the middle of re-tucking the engine bay harness atm using. F6 braided sleeve. Its split like corrugated loom, but looks so much better.

^ wow that does look good

My engine harness is wrapped in braided sleeving. When you check my car out, and jack it up, and take the wheel off, and then take the fender liner off, then you will see the driver side harness.
Don't find it necessary to spend more time on something that even I won't see for a very long time. And honestly, I'd rather have electrical tape wrapped harness than a baby blue one just because it's "braided sleeving"...lol

I spy Jesse Budanos s14 ;)

Considering picking up a TII hood for temporary use. Would love to do a vmount setup but don't know what hood vent to run and keep budget in mind.

Jaggermouth: Hmmm, I don't see how it'd work for me considering my wheel/tire setup gets way too close the my frame rail. I would need to some how find a way to run the harness above the frame rail in between the fender. Would love to see how your bay comes together with everything complete. Makes me want to get rid of that bulky powersteering as well.

hey mac i got a turbo II carbon fiber hood lyin around, I will trade it for some small labor, wanna make my car almost like yours lol,kind of same kit, pm me if interested

^I kind of like how that sounds haha, pm sent sir^

Ill take a better picture with the fender off in a few days. The wheel would hit the frame/fender rail thing before the harness.

the crown vic wheels look sick, of coarse the te37 style ones are always sickkk too

do you have any ass shots of your fc? i'd like to see how wide the wheels look from behind

Wow, been a while since I've checked up on this; great progress MAC! Wish I could say the same. But at least its running good. You must have some canadian-spec weather round your area if that dinky fan setup is providing adequet cooling. I've got 2x 10" fans and it still doesn't like sittin in line at the drive through. Part of that I'm sure is the lack of airflow to the oil cooler with the v-mount, but I've got a PC fan on the way that should fix that.

Loving the look w/ the vics can't wait till I get paint/body done so I can unveil mine.

As far as your turbo goes boost creep is just going to be a fact of life for the time being. Enlarging the small scroll combined with leaving the stock flapper diameter the same on an S4 turbo means there is no chance of effectively restricting boost. Just make sure you have enough fuel (550x720 is more than enough w/ rising rate FPR) for whatever boost you might hit (I was well on the way to 20 psi yesterday with <50* ambient temps, and that's on an S5 turbo!).

Also, to all the Taurus alt acolytes. There's nothing wrong with a properly functioning FD alt (especially when upgrading from the craptastic s4 alt). The FD alt does "turn on" , but that happens at 3,000 rpm, not 6 grand, so if thats the case, either the belts were lose, the alt was bad, or it was wired incorrectly. My FD alt charges at 14.2 volts even below 3k rpm once the car has been running, and has done so for the last 4 years (and I bought it used). I have nothing against cheap an effective mods but if you have a working FD alt, theres no reason to jump ship. And lets be honest, the Taurus alt while effective, is ugly :rofl:

Not very...cuz they aren't. I've got the same wheels. Fortunately when your car is slammed a la MAC, that's pretty much a non issue, as the only way someone gets a good look under the rear is while riding a street luge :lol:

Lately around here it hasn't gotten hotter than 90F. And it seems to be cooling great, we'll see how it is around summer time. The boost creep really does suck, I look at my boost gauge more than my rpms. 680s or 720s would definitely make me feel a bit safer. As for the alternator, the autozone alternator tester said it was bad. I usually don't trust them too often, but the alt hasnt worked for me at all so it needed to get out of my car. Not too worried about looks of an alternator because I painted it black anyways lol.

Anyways, I picked up a carbon TII hood from rx7club member LIMON. Thanks a ton man!

Started getting to work on it, needs alot of work.
Attachment 717078

Lol, I'd have to agree. It does work effectively. But even though it's under the hood, wouldn't want to have it. It's certainly not the most elegant looking alternator out there. I never thought I'd be discussing how alternators look.

The car looks good Mac.