After reading some more posts, It seems that depowering a power rack is probably marginal, and I'd be risking breakage at some undetermined point. Maybe welding it up takes care of most of the risk. Still on the table.

Anyways, made some more progress on the engine pull, and some more parts arrived from Banzai Racing.


Crusty.


Oil and water ... preparing for a mess once I get into the engine


Banzai!!! Block-off kit. OMP delete kit. Race engine mounts.

 

Interesting day. Had to take off for some family duties, but managed to work on the last few bits of harness to disconnect. Ended up spending a few hours waiting for tags for my Rx-8, as the Texas state registration system was down.
Anyway, after dinner I figured I'd just go ahead and pull the engine. So ...

Worlds first transverse rotary?


Safely on the ground ... I'm out!


Empty, and filthy.

 

Nice build! Cant wait to see the results

 

Finally, I found some time to start on tear down of the engine. Pretty interesting. Main points:

1) Rust (coolant) in the rear rotor, presumably from a coolant seal failure,
2) Otherwise, rear rotor is unmarked and all seals are present with oil in the oily bits only, bearing looks great (just a faint bit of copper showing),
3) Rear plate feels ok,
4) Rear housing has some minor chrome wear, but otherwise just a bit cruddy from rust, minimal chatter, no cracks,
5) Center housing seems good, was ***very*** difficult to detach from front housing, had to use clamps and leverage to inch it off the dowels,
6) Front rotor is clean (not checked it yet)
7) Front housing and plate not checked yet.

I have tools to check specs per FSM and will do. At that point, I'll know what'll be needed.
Honestly, there''s nothing more zen for me than taking one of these jewels apart. Love it.

 

So both rotors are complete with all seals, but the rear rotor is mostly stuck as a coolant seal popped.

Any thoughts on unsticking - right now I'm just brushing with ATF - and one side seal and apex seal has unstuck successfully. I really don't want to damage these as they may be just within spec, in which case I could reuse. This will be an experiment in minimal rebuild technology! Just seals and gaskets ideally, assuming the irons and housing are within or at least close to spec.
I spent a bunch of money rebuilding my Renesis, and was not happy with how hard it was to turn over. I have yet to revisit that engine.
With this engine, it will be a minimal cost, maximal care effort. It may be terrible, but I will darn well measure exactly how terrible.

Goals:

• Minimize cost
• Maximise fun
• Maximize noise
• Last 2000+ miles

Non-goals (!)

• Ultimate longevity
• Ultimate power
• Any refinement at all
• Resale value

Here's what I'm working with right now:

This is the rear rotor. There was coolant incursion and corrosion from sitting. With ATF, one side-seal and apex seal has unstuck thus far.


Looking like just the one side-seal stuck on the front rotor, and should clean up good.

Thorough pictures and documentation are coming. But rest-assured, these rotors and housing look better than what my Renesis looked like when tore down.

After some serious work, here's the rear face of the rear rotor.


Just everything in the right corner still stuck. One side seal and two apex seals are free and bagged.

 

Well, perusing Facebook Marketplace, I happened across a 88 Rx-7 GXL listed for $5k. Kinda scruffy on the outside, with not great pictures, not running, but with a burgundy 'Japanese - Brougham' interior in great shape.
You can see where this is going, but I drove up on Saturday 7/31, and agreed a deal in principle, subject to various wife / girlfriend approval. $4k plus my disassembled blue 87 Rx-7 sport 'low-grade model' in Mazda FSM parlance.

Packing up the Blue Car


Packing up engine bits


Blue car as it sat on drive


More engine bits loaded


Loaded on the tow truck

Couple of Teaser Pics
So I did say the interior on the 88 Rx-7 was nice ...


Mmmmm


Super clean


(contd on my other thread - with the 'new' FC)