JDM FC3S Circut car from Australia
Been long time between updates. So here is the latest.
All the panels are on including alloy hood.



Got the door trims done too


Front end upgrade including
Steel front hubs to replace the weak alloy units that grow under extreme heat cycling causing the front wheels bearing to loosen

Front hub bearing spacers to allow proper bearing pre load

Front brake upgrade. Involves machining front hub down to accept Brembo 324mm rotors off a 350Z on the front as well as spacing the calliper to fit over the thicker rotor and move it out 1" radially for larger diameter rotor.

Rear brake upgrade is Supernow FD 315mm rear rotor conversion. Decent size upgrade.


The plan is to increase the thermal efficiency of the system with larger rotors. I will run Hawk Blue pads to start but the whole idea is to keep the look period correct, cost effective and subtle. It also works with the standard brake master cylinder bore to keep the pedal feel right like factory. Just going to fit a bias valve to fine tune it but should be pretty close and help dial out the tendency to lock the rears first under hard braking.
Finally scored an awesome find on Gumtree - A RE AMEMIYA COMPLETE SERIES 4 DASH!!! guy was wrecking an FC out in QLD so I grabbed it.

Also scored 2 more sets of the same Work Rezax Roar wheels. Painting them up now bringing the total number of sets to 4 which is plenty for track days.
All the panels are on including alloy hood.



Got the door trims done too


Front end upgrade including
Steel front hubs to replace the weak alloy units that grow under extreme heat cycling causing the front wheels bearing to loosen

Front hub bearing spacers to allow proper bearing pre load

Front brake upgrade. Involves machining front hub down to accept Brembo 324mm rotors off a 350Z on the front as well as spacing the calliper to fit over the thicker rotor and move it out 1" radially for larger diameter rotor.

Rear brake upgrade is Supernow FD 315mm rear rotor conversion. Decent size upgrade.


The plan is to increase the thermal efficiency of the system with larger rotors. I will run Hawk Blue pads to start but the whole idea is to keep the look period correct, cost effective and subtle. It also works with the standard brake master cylinder bore to keep the pedal feel right like factory. Just going to fit a bias valve to fine tune it but should be pretty close and help dial out the tendency to lock the rears first under hard braking.
Finally scored an awesome find on Gumtree - A RE AMEMIYA COMPLETE SERIES 4 DASH!!! guy was wrecking an FC out in QLD so I grabbed it.

Also scored 2 more sets of the same Work Rezax Roar wheels. Painting them up now bringing the total number of sets to 4 which is plenty for track days.
Last edited by JamesG; Jan 18, 2014 at 10:01 PM.
Here is the brake system all installed on the front




All fits under 17" rim. I will run a 5mm spacer but I needed that anyway to clear the front rims to the struts. Uses all OEM rotors and pads. Pads are stock FC. Rotor is stock Brembo 350Z and we utilised longer pad pins from a Toyota Landcruiser. Once it is dialled in, I will switch across to a 2 piece rotor on the front as well as the FD rotor on the rear. A good balance size of rotors at 324mm front and 315mm rear. Looks stock too!
Here is the pretty plain looking fuel system. All Aeroflow with the fuel reg and in line filter. Stock hardline is used with a fitting to connect to the push on fittings.

If you have an FC you may know the whole issue of swapping a factory auto transmission car to a manual with the transmission cross member being different................problem solved. (I was waiting on a custom bolt hence the drill bit lol!!!).

The car is now back in the shop having the intercooler, exhaust system and some other minor fabrication work finished up then it's back to my home workshop to wire it up and hopefully fire it up!
Thanks for checking out my build,
James.




All fits under 17" rim. I will run a 5mm spacer but I needed that anyway to clear the front rims to the struts. Uses all OEM rotors and pads. Pads are stock FC. Rotor is stock Brembo 350Z and we utilised longer pad pins from a Toyota Landcruiser. Once it is dialled in, I will switch across to a 2 piece rotor on the front as well as the FD rotor on the rear. A good balance size of rotors at 324mm front and 315mm rear. Looks stock too!
Here is the pretty plain looking fuel system. All Aeroflow with the fuel reg and in line filter. Stock hardline is used with a fitting to connect to the push on fittings.

If you have an FC you may know the whole issue of swapping a factory auto transmission car to a manual with the transmission cross member being different................problem solved. (I was waiting on a custom bolt hence the drill bit lol!!!).

The car is now back in the shop having the intercooler, exhaust system and some other minor fabrication work finished up then it's back to my home workshop to wire it up and hopefully fire it up!
Thanks for checking out my build,
James.
#Clearance the calipers on a mill rather than die grind it out making it quick and easy
#When we joined the calipers we linished down the caliper for a smooth OEM look and just painted them gloss black
#We ordered longer caliper pins to suit from a Toyota Landcruiser rather than counter sink/reuse the stock FC pins
Also for some reason we did not require the spacer to go behind the 350Z Rotor. I did however upgrade to a steel front hub from KSP Attain in Japan. This allowed me to machine down the stronger steel hub with heaps more material on it where it counts to suit a stock 350Z Brembo rotor no machining of the centre bore needed. Perhaps this all had something to do with it.
Anyway after good reviews on your site I decided to go for it. Looks stock but should hold up under race conditions. If I am pleased I will go 2 piece front and rear but machining the front hub to suit 350Z stock and the rear to FD RZ spec stock means it's always off the shelf parts for Rotors and hats in the future.
For me this car has been all about an unremarkable looking car that can punch above it's weight on a track. These brakes fit the requirement to a tee!
James.
Your build is truly inspiring brotha . One of the few builds I've seen done very clean , simple , and in my eyes very elegant and yet rough . The white on black , you can't go wrong with for sure . Subscribed for updates and pics
Wow. That undertray.... WOW. You should measure that and have a few made. probably make some decent profit... profit means parts... parts mean more smiles per gallon!. Do you have a write up of those door panels? I have a couple of extra pairs I would love to replicate with different material. Top notch!
I had never seen the front hub bearing spacers before... they look pretty cool. I assume they let you tighten down the hub really tight without crushing the bearing? Do you know anyone who has used them? Do they actually work well?
I assume you got them from MSF?
I assume you got them from MSF?
Built a new front bumper for more air flow to the twin engine oil coolers each side of the inter cooler.
Reset ride height to get it to hook up better in turns.
New fuel tank and system has much better ground clearance to help ride over ripple strips at the track.





