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shiet, just realized how slow i sounded.. my bad guys. switch the words 'lean' and 'rich' in the above paragraph.
i guess 10 ish under more than stock boost isnt terrible. pretty conservative actually. and how am i idling so lean? is that average, or possible to idle at +18.0?
can i tune w/ inaccurate readings like that? why only during idle?
how do people account for overly lean numbers when datalogging and stuff like that if they still have an airpump?
The air pump only injects pre turbo at certain points wot isn't one of them unless of course your air control valve isn't hooked up properly.
Off the top of my head I can't remember when exactly it was doing what. The service manual would be your best bet there or someone with a better memory when it pumps air where.
The air pump only injects pre turbo at certain points wot isn't one of them unless of course your air control valve isn't hooked up properly.
Off the top of my head I can't remember when exactly it was doing what. The service manual would be your best bet there or someone with a better memory when it pumps air where.
it is basically in what Mazda calls "port air" up to ~2500rpm, or big throttle openings. its controlled by the ecu, via the TPS, which is one reason why the TPS can be so important.
Originally Posted by atsugiT2
i see.
would it be logical to disconnect the airpump for tuning purposes and reattach it afterwards to retain emissions passing capability?
its been done, however at idle and light loads, you're often tuning for the best running and not a particular AFR, so its not needed. actually most people leave the low end stuff alone and tune WOT
was able to get my poly bushings installed today. it was actually a 2 day process because after installing the control arm rear bushing on the front left side i wasnt able to get the bolt holes to line up between the bracket and where it bolts to. that consumed the greater part of my day yesterday. and today went pretty smooth. all together i did front and rear sway bars and control arms. all i have left is the trailing arms(looked a lil intimidating.. haa) and the tie rod dust caps.
sooo, ive read poly bushings arent ideal on trailing arms. any feedback on this? i havent installed yet, so its not too late.
also, i talked to scoot today and he wanted a specific list of what i wanted done and what i expected. i told him a hybrid turbo, an intercooler, and a tune for my power fc. i also told him i planned to use an hks twin power which i was waiting on to arrive in the mail so i could install. he said he doesnt recommend use of ignition amplifiers or tampering w/ the stock igition coils at all. he recommends OEM. so maybe ill be selling mine when i get it..
also, i installed a rear strut bar yesterday. i didnt actually take pics cause im not really that proud of the cutting job i did on the carpet/speaker tower to install it.. i havent been to the mountains lately, so i cant really report on the effects of all my suspension work yet.
also, koseki at scoot said i should be running 10 sparkplugs(BUR10ET i think is the part number?)
ive heard of people running 10s before, but i have a pretty basic setup right now. any thoughts on this?
There is not anything wrong with running that heat range. 10's are slightly colder than the stock 9's. They can cause hard starting when cold and fouling if you lope around town like an old man, but they do provide a little insurance against detonation. I would take their recommendation and go with those plugs.
alright, appreciate it! any thoughts on bushings for the trailing arms? or ways to stiffen up the center of the car? i was thinking about the tanabe under brace. or filling the subframe w/ urethane foam. but that may be a little extreme for me at this point. i just want some stiffness in the center since im stiffening the front and back up.
I have nothing bad or good to say about packing the frame in foam, but my only concern would be if there was moisture that got trapped in the foam and started rusting from the inside out.
also, koseki at scoot said i should be running 10 sparkplugs(BUR10ET i think is the part number?)
ive heard of people running 10s before, but i have a pretty basic setup right now. any thoughts on this?
if they think you should run 10's, then you should run 10's. they have tuned more of these things than we have...
Originally Posted by atsugiT2
alright, appreciate it! any thoughts on bushings for the trailing arms?
since they need to twist, as well as rotate, you either need a bearing, or the stock rubber. the stock bushings were quite cheap last time i checked
The stock rubbers individually are "cheap". They are about $25 a piece. There are 4 total, so it really adds up fast. It's amusing considering that you can get a whole prothane set for about the same price as stock rubbers, but the stock ones are the best way to go sort of spherical bearings.
appreciate it guys. ill go ahead and take the stock bushing route then. and i ordered a set of 10s right after he told me, just wanted to get some second opinions on it.
@ACR mann, those frame reinforcements look good. id really wanna give those welded drop in square tubes a try. gotta get my fabrication skills up before i start choppin up the floorboard though. let me know how your v8 roadster rail install goes though!
the stock parts are kinda pricey where i could find em(i think mazdatrix). i like the solids from PBM though. i was thinking get the trailing arm bushings and the dtss delete bushings from them. is there any downside to solids over stocks? i dont mind stiffness, but for road course driving would it have any adverse affects over stock?
also, anything wrong w/ mixing polys in the front and solids/rubbers in the back?
the stock parts are kinda pricey where i could find em(i think mazdatrix). i like the solids from PBM though. i was thinking get the trailing arm bushings and the dtss delete bushings from them. is there any downside to solids over stocks? i dont mind stiffness, but for road course driving would it have any adverse affects over stock?
also, anything wrong w/ mixing polys in the front and solids/rubbers in the back?
Might have problems with the poly bushings binding in the rear if you go that route. Solid seems like it compliments your setup more than stock rubber especially if you're planning on doing any sort of track time.
No issues using poly in the front and whatever in the rear.
unfortunately, i think the back left caliper is shot. i thought i noticed less pull over the past couple days. tonight though, i lifted it after some weird behavior and tried spinning the tire and it was pretty hard. also, the rim was pretty warm. hopefully didnt mess anything up too bad.. plan on removing and cleaning my calipers this weekend and hopefully that fixes it..
im back yall. in case yall were wondering, i took off that caliper, tore it apart and cleaned it and threw it back on and the brakes have been working fine ever since. i tore the dust boot though. but i actually bought rebuild kits for all brake calipers. wanna do a rebuild/repaint on all of em soon. also bought new pads and rotors. also recieved my solid trailin arm bushings and dtss deletes from poweredbymax. unfortunately, havent been in the same country as my car for the last month or so, so i cant do any of this stuff. besides that, my cars also with Scoot Sports right now getting a front mount installed and a decent map for the power fc. he was gonna throw the knightsports turbo on for me, but i figured i might as well save up for an EFR setup and maybe a turblown manifold and join the 350-400hp club.
but i have been working on a pretty nice rising sun headlight cover. took 3 tries but is coming along pretty well
Last edited by atsugiT2; 03-21-16 at 04:50 AM.
Reason: typo
finally getting Rotisha back this week! gonna install new rotors and pads and then go on some test runs and tweak the suspension a lil bit. i still need to install my solid bushings in the back, but i need a free weekend for that.
also, not build related, but i stopped by REAmemiyas shop the other day. it was pretty dope. i tried to get some advice, but with the language barrier i could only get so much. for future ecu's he recommended HKS or Motec on the fc. and upgrading to an FD alternator, and also, that if i was to push my engine past about 350 i run the risk of cracking the engine next to where the oil filter screws in. he recommends welding around there for safety.
Last edited by atsugiT2; 04-10-16 at 11:02 PM.
Reason: typo
That's so awesome you got to go there . I'm going to look at my oil filter area and see what he's talking . I know on s4 the end plate is weak and so people dowel which I have not done on this rebuild . I'm trying to gain all the lil trick of the trade now for the next rebuild . I'm shooting for 15 psi this build with my 9.4 rotors in a 6 port .
Wow i'm loving the thing around the air filter. And the re-amemiya garage, nice!
I got an answer from Aaron Cake a few days ago and he said also that the n/a rear plate would crack if more than 400hp, so not going past that But where's the place to weld? just around the oil filter area? Wont the rear iron bend because of the heat?
01-19-16, 03:28 AM
But where's the place to weld? just around the oil filter area? Wont the rear iron bend because of the heat?