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If you are still having transient throttle issues....
I’d say it’s due to your injectors being too far away from the engine itself.
Lots of people who delete the OEM primary fuel rail/injectors report their cars are wayyy harder to tune because the ecu needs to anticipate when the arrival of the air/fuel mixture down a long intake tract.
The OEM stock location primary injectors have a super short and direct location for precise fuel control.
This is pretty much the conclusion I've come to. I'm sure with lots of fiddling and just the right transient throttle and injector firing angle settings I could get it significantly better. The side draft carb guys have been dealing with a similar setup for decades. I did confirm my arrangement IS longer than most side draft carb setups, though. I've got some changes planned. I'll eventually change to a down draft style setup, which will put the injectors significantly closer. I may just run two injectors in the stock primary location anyway.
Originally Posted by newbrap
Just found this build thread off a facebook post, thanks for sharing your journey. Definitely a fan of the way the engine bay looks but I don't know how I would do without AC. Are you fully tuned now or still having some issues?
It was tuned except for transient throttle and some other small quality-of-life things like cold start enrichment. I haven't gone back and looked at anything since I changed my exhaust. I'm sure someone more experienced could do better but I can jump in, start it and drive off without any issues. I'll be making some changes to the intake system this Summer so I'll have to adjust the tune to match. I really wish I had someone local with more experience.
Quick question - did you have to add any spacers/shims to use the FFE trigger kit with the side mount alternator? It doesn't look like it in the pictures, but I wanted to make sure. Thanks in advance!
Side note - if you remember last April at the Nantahala Outdoor Center when some drunk kid started asking you about your car, that was me lol.
Quick question - did you have to add any spacers/shims to use the FFE trigger kit with the side mount alternator? It doesn't look like it in the pictures, but I wanted to make sure. Thanks in advance!
Side note - if you remember last April at the Nantahala Outdoor Center when some drunk kid started asking you about your car, that was me lol.
Nope. Fortunately it turned out that the spacers included with the side-mounted alternator kit (Extreme Rotaries kit, I think) and the FFE bracket were the same thickness. 10 mm, I think. I measured the spacers first then contacted FFE before ordering. I can't guarantee this will be true for other side-mount kits or even the same kit from Extreme Rotaries today.
Honestly, I met so many new people last year I had a hard time keeping track; even the drunk ones! I'll be headed that way for again in a couple of days so I hope to see many familiar faces. I'll be staying at NVCC this year so I won't have to make the drive to/from Bryson City each day so I plan to "partake" in the festivites a little more
Nope. Fortunately it turned out that the spacers included with the side-mounted alternator kit (Extreme Rotaries kit, I think) and the FFE bracket were the same thickness. 10 mm, I think. I measured the spacers first then contacted FFE before ordering. I can't guarantee this will be true for other side-mount kits or even the same kit from Extreme Rotaries today.
Awesome, thank you! I wonder if FFE purposefully spec'd their bracket thickness to be level with the outer edge of the front iron to make the side mounting easy...
Any updates or content on the car? One of the most satisfyingly built FC's ive seen.
Thanks! I've been slowly working on things. Making small changes here and there and improving areas where problems have come up. I really wish there was a better way to share photos...
The biggest changes in the past year or so have been to the intake and exhaust. I've gone to a slightly smaller, tapered, billet ITB and now have a much shorter intake manifold (off the shelf IDA type), My exhaust is now much improved: much longer primary runner length, better collector and 3" after the merge. Running a single Burns Stainless race muffler so it's a little loud for the time being (working on stuffing another muffler somewhere). Decided to put the car on a dyno last July and made an unbelievable 240 hp and 160 ft-lb. This is up from 190 hp and 160 ft lb from the previous dyno. The car definitely feels stronger (doesn't fall on its face after 7000 RPM) but I don't think it really picked up 50 hp. I need to take it to a rotary shop like Angel Motorsports (only 2 hrs away from me) and have the tune finalized and a more realistic dyno.
Mostly been working on trying to lower IATs. Unless I'm at speed they really start to creep up without any kind of intake ducting. It's not so noticeable on track but can become an issue on back roads (e.g. DGRR). I've got a temporary solution in place right now and am working on a cold air box solution. I'm also starting to go through my suspension again. Replacing the last few OEM rubber bushings, swapping to S4 front control arms, Mazdatrix bump steer kit, etc. I found a small leak at one of the rear CV boots so I'll need to fix that soon too. The main goal this year is to get everything sorted and really get back on track. That is if this COVID-19 thing ever goes away...
While it would be amazing, I have my doubts about picking up another 50 whp on that streetport (as my peripheral port only makes around 270whp). But who knows? I'd love for that graph of yours to be correct
Either way, very impressive and that exhaust is a beauty. Can't wait to see more of this thing.
Do you have the dyno chart from before the change handy? The curve change will probably be more interesting to see than the peak number. I've gotten numbers anywhere between 125 and 200 from a few different dynos. I've given up on knowing the actual output of my 12a. My butt says 150whp at best.
Thanks! I've been slowly working on things. Making small changes here and there and improving areas where problems have come up. I really wish there was a better way to share photos...
The biggest changes in the past year or so have been to the intake and exhaust. I've gone to a slightly smaller, tapered, billet ITB and now have a much shorter intake manifold (off the shelf IDA type), My exhaust is now much improved: much longer primary runner length, better collector and 3" after the merge. Running a single Burns Stainless race muffler so it's a little loud for the time being (working on stuffing another muffler somewhere). Decided to put the car on a dyno last July and made an unbelievable 240 hp and 160 ft-lb. This is up from 190 hp and 160 ft lb from the previous dyno. The car definitely feels stronger (doesn't fall on its face after 7000 RPM) but I don't think it really picked up 50 hp. I need to take it to a rotary shop like Angel Motorsports (only 2 hrs away from me) and have the tune finalized and a more realistic dyno.
Mostly been working on trying to lower IATs. Unless I'm at speed they really start to creep up without any kind of intake ducting. It's not so noticeable on track but can become an issue on back roads (e.g. DGRR). I've got a temporary solution in place right now and am working on a cold air box solution. I'm also starting to go through my suspension again. Replacing the last few OEM rubber bushings, swapping to S4 front control arms, Mazdatrix bump steer kit, etc. I found a small leak at one of the rear CV boots so I'll need to fix that soon too. The main goal this year is to get everything sorted and really get back on track. That is if this COVID-19 thing ever goes away...
Those are some very impressive dyno numbers for an NA -- your FC is looking good!
Where are your IATs currently, what kind of sensor are you using for IATs and where is it mounted? The answers to those last two questions have a big influence on what your IAT sensor actually reads under heat soak conditions. That's especially true if it's mounted on the intake manifold, which gets hot and stays pretty hot, rather than being mounted somewhere on the air intake plumbing just before the throttle plates (ideal location).
I'm going to have to relocate the IAT sensor on my single turbo FD for that reason -- PO mounted the IAT on the underside of the Cosmo UIM; the sensor heat soaks there, and once it does, the measured IATs stay pretty high despite the car having a ginormous FMIC. In comparison to my FC turbo (380RWHP, with stock TMIC), I'm consistently seeing higher IATs in the FD than I do in the FC once heat soaked under the same ambient temp conditions, and more importantly, the IATs don't come down as rapidly or as much as they should in the FD as they do in the FC once moving.
Sorry for leaving this hanging for ~6 months. With all the various Facebook groups I kind of forget about the forums.
Originally Posted by djSL
Very nice!
While it would be amazing, I have my doubts about picking up another 50 whp on that streetport (as my peripheral port only makes around 270whp). But who knows? I'd love for that graph of yours to be correct
Either way, very impressive and that exhaust is a beauty. Can't wait to see more of this thing.
Get it dialed in!
I agree it seems far-fetched. The only meter I have to measure the dyno accuracy is a stock '08 Civic Si that ran the same day that put down 183 whp, which seems accurate to me. The fact that it's over 200 makes me happy. For now...
Originally Posted by chuyler1
Do you have the dyno chart from before the change handy? The curve change will probably be more interesting to see than the peak number. I've gotten numbers anywhere between 125 and 200 from a few different dynos. I've given up on knowing the actual output of my 12a. My butt says 150whp at best.
I thought I posted one before. Unfortunately they're different dynos. What's interesting is the HP curves are nearly identical up to 7000 RPM and the torque curves ARE identical. With the new setup power continues to build until 8200 RPM. It's definitely noticeable. It's like the old intake and exhaust were choking the car over 7000 RPM.
Originally Posted by Pete_89T2
Those are some very impressive dyno numbers for an NA -- your FC is looking good!
Where are your IATs currently, what kind of sensor are you using for IATs and where is it mounted? The answers to those last two questions have a big influence on what your IAT sensor actually reads under heat soak conditions. That's especially true if it's mounted on the intake manifold, which gets hot and stays pretty hot, rather than being mounted somewhere on the air intake plumbing just before the throttle plates (ideal location).
I'm going to have to relocate the IAT sensor on my single turbo FD for that reason -- PO mounted the IAT on the underside of the Cosmo UIM; the sensor heat soaks there, and once it does, the measured IATs stay pretty high despite the car having a ginormous FMIC. In comparison to my FC turbo (380RWHP, with stock TMIC), I'm consistently seeing higher IATs in the FD than I do in the FC once heat soaked under the same ambient temp conditions, and more importantly, the IATs don't come down as rapidly or as much as they should in the FD as they do in the FC once moving.
With the new intake the IAT sensor was originally zip-tied to the fuel rail, LOL. With the filter setup it was zip-tied to the support inside the filter. Should be pretty accurate representations. Sensor is the usual GM style open element filter. Excessive idling or low speed, high RPM driving would result in IATs over 140F! Fortunately, I've finally figured out my solution:
Got the modified SA/FB Group C box installed. Had to make a custom base plate and angle the side to clear the fuel rail but it works. Filter is down in the area behind where the factory passenger's side fog light used to be and the IAT sensor is in the bottom of the airbox inlet.
I've tweaked the tune a little bit but overall the VE table hasn't changed much. If anything, it's more stable now. Haven't dyno'd the new setup. I assume I probably lost a little power but IATs are now no more than 10F over ambient. I did two SCCA Track Nights in America in August and September in 95F+ weather and never saw IATs over 110F while moving. I still really need to get the tune finalized. I'd estimate it's 90% finished. Just need someone who knows more about timing to look it over. Seriously thinking about calling Angel Motorsports since Michael's shop is only 2 hrs from me.
Nice work! I have to ask, what thermostat neck (and upper radiator hose) is that? I've been looking for a sleeker option than the S4 neck.
I like the airbox and honestly, I thought about doing that too. Butttttt, I got lazy and just put a T2 hood on. My filter sits right in line with the flow of air anyway.
From what I've seen, Michael Vargas does pretty good work with tuning. Take it up there, and get it done!
Nice work! I have to ask, what thermostat neck (and upper radiator hose) is that? I've been looking for a sleeker option than the S4 neck.
I like the airbox and honestly, I thought about doing that too. Butttttt, I got lazy and just put a T2 hood on. My filter sits right in line with the flow of air anyway.
From what I've seen, Michael Vargas does pretty good work with tuning. Take it up there, and get it done!
The thermostat neck is from JDL Manufacturing. He makes a bunch of billet parts for RX7s. He offers both S4 and S5 versions and even a version with an integrated air separation tank. I didn't opt for that out of fears it would interfere with the airbox. The upper radiator hose is just a random hose I found at Autozone. I just looked for one with the correct ID that was mostly straight with a 45-ish degree bend in it. It was longer than I needed so I trimmed off some length from both ends. I like the new setup. The new thermostat neck sits lower than stock so it's no longer the highest point in my system. I used to have to jack the front of the car WAY up to make the bleed plug on the radiator the highest point.
I thought about doing the TII hood with my old intake setup. The intercooler inlet would have been right above my filters too. Still doesn't solve the heatsoak at idle issue and I decided getting the hot air from the radiator out of the engine bay was more important. My IATs still creep up at idle with the new setup but at least I'm not pulling in hot engine bay air anymore.
I had Michael Vargas briefly toy with the car at DGRR in 2019. It definitely idles better since incorporating his recommendations. The biggest areas of improvement I need right now are very light throttle and transient throttle conditions.
The biggest changes in the past year or so have been to the intake and exhaust. I've gone to a slightly smaller, tapered, billet ITB and now have a much shorter intake manifold (off the shelf IDA type), My exhaust is now much improved: much longer primary runner length, better collector and 3" after the merge.
is that a Defined header?
i'm always in awe whenever i see and read updates on your car. great stuff, man.
i'm always in awe whenever i see and read updates on your car. great stuff, man.
The Defined header is the one on the bottom in that picture. The one on the top is what I had a local shop make based on the images Defined had on their website and some other images I found online of custom manifolds. I wanted something with the longest feasible, equal length primaries that were also low enough to stay away from the intake manifold. Overall I'm very pleased with the final result. My only complaint is the bracket that bolts to the transmission. Every time I remove the manifold it seems to move, which makes bolting everything back together a pain. It either needs to be soft-mounted or there need to be flex joints upstream to allow more freedom when the manifold expands with heat. I'm going to have another muffler put in downstream of the collector so I'll probably see if there's anything we can do then.
The Defined header is the one on the bottom in that picture. The one on the top is what I had a local shop make based on the images Defined had on their website and some other images I found online of custom manifolds. I wanted something with the longest feasible, equal length primaries that were also low enough to stay away from the intake manifold. Overall I'm very pleased with the final result. My only complaint is the bracket that bolts to the transmission. Every time I remove the manifold it seems to move, which makes bolting everything back together a pain. It either needs to be soft-mounted or there need to be flex joints upstream to allow more freedom when the manifold expands with heat. I'm going to have another muffler put in downstream of the collector so I'll probably see if there's anything we can do then.
Heh.
I assumed the bottom one was the defined. It looks so simply made.
The thermostat neck is from JDL Manufacturing. He makes a bunch of billet parts for RX7s. He offers both S4 and S5 versions and even a version with an integrated air separation tank. I didn't opt for that out of fears it would interfere with the airbox. The upper radiator hose is just a random hose I found at Autozone. I just looked for one with the correct ID that was mostly straight with a 45-ish degree bend in it. It was longer than I needed so I trimmed off some length from both ends. I like the new setup. The new thermostat neck sits lower than stock so it's no longer the highest point in my system. I used to have to jack the front of the car WAY up to make the bleed plug on the radiator the highest point.
I thought about doing the TII hood with my old intake setup. The intercooler inlet would have been right above my filters too. Still doesn't solve the heatsoak at idle issue and I decided getting the hot air from the radiator out of the engine bay was more important. My IATs still creep up at idle with the new setup but at least I'm not pulling in hot engine bay air anymore.
I had Michael Vargas briefly toy with the car at DGRR in 2019. It definitely idles better since incorporating his recommendations. The biggest areas of improvement I need right now are very light throttle and transient throttle conditions.
Thanks for the response. I'll have to check out JDL as I really like that thermostat neck. I
For sure, your intake set-up looks ideal. I haven't got a chance to do much for datalogging, but I'd be interested to compare IAT's at idle for a given period of time. It would be interesting to identify a measurable difference.
It's insane how much time it takes to get transient throttle set up. At least in my experience with ITB's. This winter, I'm throwing in the towel and purchasing an elite 750 or Adaptronic. My E6x needs to go in the junk bin.
I assumed the bottom one was the defined. It looks so simply made.
I'll admit I was a little disappointed when I got it. It doesn't really look like the pictures on the website (are they even there anymore)? It did look much better when new. I did a lot of business with them when I lived in Ohio. Logan knows his stuff but it's a small shop and they were always really busy.
Originally Posted by djSL
Thanks for the response. I'll have to check out JDL as I really like that thermostat neck. I
For sure, your intake set-up looks ideal. I haven't got a chance to do much for datalogging, but I'd be interested to compare IAT's at idle for a given period of time. It would be interesting to identify a measurable difference.
It's insane how much time it takes to get transient throttle set up. At least in my experience with ITB's. This winter, I'm throwing in the towel and purchasing an elite 750 or Adaptronic. My E6x needs to go in the junk bin.
During the Summer I'd still get IATs over 110F while idling. It's just sitting there sucking hot air off the asphalt. Still much better than pulling hot air from the engine bay. One thing I found out is my idle is less affected when my fan kicks on. Before I think it was creating weird turbulence under the hood that messed with the idle briefly when kicking on/off.
I haven't done a good drive and datalog in a while. Now that the weather is reasonable I should probably do some tuning again. I don't like to do with when it's excessively hot or cold. With the ECU Manager software for the Platinum Series most advice I've seen regarding the transient throttle is to leave the defaults alone. My main issue is no matter how much I crank up the settings the fuel always lagged a split-second behind. I could get to where smashing the throttle would cause the car to first hesitate (lean) then bog down big time (rich) so I know the enrichment isn't the problem. Mostly likely this is because my injector placement. If I had smaller injectors in the stock primary location this probably wouldn't be an issue. I've had more success messing with the closed loop fuel control. I bumped up the sampling rate so the ECU can make adjustments more quickly. I've also been slowly increasing the proportional and integral controls. You want to set those so your air-fuel ratio goes to the target as quickly as possible with little overshoot and no oscillation. This has vastly improved my idle stability.
I just don't think most software knows how to handle throttle body injection when it is expecting port injection. Holley must have figured it out with their bolt on kits, but everyone else seems to struggle with slow vs fast transients. You can get it dialed for the track, or on the dyno, but then it's not enough for the occasional throttle blip from idle or mashing the pedal at low RPMs. Maybe the injectors fire too deep into the intake and need deflectors? Best thing I did for my 12a was swapping from the wrap-around intake to the short intake. Despite ending up with very short runners, the proximity of the injectors and how they fire into that manifold did wonders. Still not perfect, but I only get occasional studder when I push the pedal too fast at too low of an RPM. Same issue everyone else pretends doesn't exist when they change to mechanical secondaries on their Nikkis.
I just don't think most software knows how to handle throttle body injection when it is expecting port injection. Holley must have figured it out with their bolt on kits, but everyone else seems to struggle with slow vs fast transients. You can get it dialed for the track, or on the dyno, but then it's not enough for the occasional throttle blip from idle or mashing the pedal at low RPMs. Maybe the injectors fire too deep into the intake and need deflectors? Best thing I did for my 12a was swapping from the wrap-around intake to the short intake. Despite ending up with very short runners, the proximity of the injectors and how they fire into that manifold did wonders. Still not perfect, but I only get occasional studder when I push the pedal too fast at too low of an RPM. Same issue everyone else pretends doesn't exist when they change to mechanical secondaries on their Nikkis.
In theory, throttle body vs port injection issues would be solved by what Haltech calls "injector firing angle." It's another one of those things I really haven't messed with and seems to have a very small affect on how the car runs. The description is the time, in degrees BTDC, when the injectors stop firing. The ECU uses that to work backward to figure out when to fire the injectors. In the Platinum series ECUs it's a 2D table - angle vs RPM. I think the Elite series might be 3D (angle vs RPM and MAP/TPS). Getting this correct isn't 100% vital to getting the car running but probably helps with that last 5%. I have mine current set the same as the factory secondary injectors based on my placement. Unfortunately, you need to have someone ride along making adjustments while you drive or do this on a dyno. Neither of which are resources I have readily available.
Going to bump this thread since the car is getting attention again now that the Vargas brothers got their hands on it. The car hasn't changed much since my last update but I figured I'd first post an image and a video from the track day back in September. Unfortunately no action shots from outside the car.
The only tweaking I did was remove every other strut from the finger guard on the electric fan.
Seems minor but I'll take any increase in cooling flow I can get. Coolant temperatures were okay on track but oil temperatures got a little high. I've got some other plans to improve oil cooling for next season.
Now the fun part. I've been driving this car for 3+ years on a tune of mostly my own doing. I got fuel nailed down pretty well and even did a few dyno sessions to work out WOT but I've never really messed with ignition and everything was generally safe. I finally got off my *** and took the car to Angel Motorsports. They were able to work some magic and got another 20 whp and 10 ft-lb out of the car. Before dyno sheet:
This was my first time on a Mustang dyno and while I'm not sure what all the different numbers mean it's the delta that's important, right? Either way, seems damn impressive for a street ported N/A 13B. I don't know what makes this engine so special. I can't really think of anything I've done that hasn't been done before in some manner. What's wild is there's still theoretically some room for improvement with this setup. The engine starts pulling vacuum at WOT at higher engine speeds so it wants to breath more. The guys at Angel Motorsports think my throttle bodies are slightly undersized and that's certainly possible. EFI Hardware does make a larger 60-55 mm tapered throttle body I could try but it's $1000+ USD. That may be an option down the road along with a better intake manifold. Either another custom or heavily ported version of the current one. It's worth pointing out that I had this same issue with the old intake and exhaust setup so I'm slightly concerned this may be an inherent issue with my engine. Something like either the intake runners or exhaust ports being undersized for the intake port size. The car's making good power so I'm not sure how much I want to mess with it.
The other issue is I seem to be running out of injector above 8000 RPM. The guys tried to add more fuel and it wasn't making any difference in AFR. This may be why I'm having such a drop in power. This is going to be tricky to solve since I'm only using two injectors so I have to balance idle stability with high RPM needs. I have a set of ID1300x2s but I'm concerned that will be too much fuel at idle. A possible way around this is to lower fuel pressure to 40 psi and target a 13:1 idle AFR. I'm currently running 45 psi and targeting 13.5:1. The other option is to bump up fuel pressure with my ID1000s. I could run 55 psi, which would put fuel flow about halfway between what I have now and 40 psi with the ID1300x2s. The ideal solution would be to go with a staged setup and use something like 550 cc/min primaries and keep the ID1000s as secondaries. Unfortunately, my Platinum Sport 1000 ECU doesn't allow tuning via VE when using staged injection. I do plan on eventually upgrading to an Elite 1000, which can VE tuning with staging, so that might be where I'm headed.
I would imagine a goal of 0psi of vacuum on a setup like this may never actually happen. I have been told the same about throttle body size and no tuner is going to be happy until they see it, but the larger you go, the less streetable it gets. I also think the inherit design of ITBs and taking a measurement from the runners instead of a plenum above them will alway yield some sort of vacuum. You are not measuring a large volume of air between the runners and throttle body, you are measuring a column of air that is continuously getting sucked and pressurized as the ports open and close and taking an average across both columns of air. Some amount of restriction is good too, it slows down the pressure wave and holds it for the next cycle. If it wasn't good, you wouldn't see other race prepped rotaries with long runners. By the time you redo your setup to change this (a 3rd time) you could have installed a small turbo for less.
Regarding running out of fuel, are you sure the ECU wasn't in closed loop mode at WOT? If it was, it would have been messing with their changes and continuing to target your pre-set AFR. I don't think you'll make more power by changing out injectors. I also don't think running bigger injectors will sacrifice idle either. Modern injectors have much better duty cycle and if you look at the specs, their flow rates at lower levels are usually virtually the same.
Yeah, 0 vacuum may be a lost cause. It had this problem with the first setup, still had it when I changed exhaust and still does it with the new intake. Normally that would tell me it's not the intake or the exhaust but carb'd, peripherally-ported cars run 51 IDAs, which are slightly larger than what I have. It's more likely I have some restriction in the intake manifold, which is made for 48 IDAs and not the best quality casting, or the runners in the housings themselves. I'm going to look at the intake manifold again the next time I have it out (who knows when) and if it's the housings then it's just going to have to stay that way. It's also possible this is inherent to the ITBs like you say. I do have a small vacuum block connecting both rotors but it's likely too small to damp out all oscillations. I've read into the subject and there's a fine line between damping oscillations and reducing the responsiveness of the vacuum signal itself.
As for fuel, I need to make more logs. I plan on messing with fuel when it warms and I'm not dealing with temperature corrections. It's hard to get good data when it's <40F outside. I know I'm seeing more than 90% duty cycle. It shouldn't be going into closed loop control but I'll check. I have that disabled after certain throttle position and MAP values so it should be in open loop. Conceptually, 250+ hp to the wheels is over 300 hp at the crank, which is a lot for ~2100 cc/min total flow. Idle injector duty cycle is currently around 4% and that's with some enrichment due to cold weather. I run a zero throttle fuel map due to low vacuum at idle and injector pulse width is around 1.5 ms. This is still in the stable range for ID1000s based on available data (Low Pulse Tech - Injector Dynamics). It's an older article so information about the ID1300 isn't available but I assume it's in between the 1000s and 1600s, which looks to be close. It's a 6/half dozen thing though I'm leaning toward upping the pressure on the ID1000s. I can get another 100 cc/min per injector by bumping pressure to 55 psi whereas driving the ID1300s at 40 psi is an extra 200 cc/min per injector. Also, my fuel pressure regulator min pressure is 40 psi so that raised questions of its own.
Unfortunately, I won't be doing much for tuning in the next month or so. My near term plan is to work on improving my ducting to and from the oil cooler to reduce on track temperatures. Then there's the usual pre-season work of changing oil, flushing coolant, etc. I plan on doing at least a TNiA just about every month April through September this year. They have one at VIR in May, which has me REALLY excited.
04-22-19, 06:10 AM
