Very nice! This is essentially the route I'm headed with mine. With a stock s4 6 port, no AUX actuators, and 48mm itbs/haltech, I've cracked 180whp. This should definitely make more. I know everyone is all hush hush, but if you get some dyno results please share! I'm building a spare motor (not for competition use) and would like to see what Defined's porting template nets.

I'm also running ID1000's but in the primary location only.

P.S. Nice choice on color matching the vented hood

 

The porting was done at Defined so I don't have their templates. I should have some decent pictures of the ports though. I'd need to ask Logan if he'd be okay with this. It's good to know you hit 180 whp. I'm just hoping for 200+ whp and I'll be happy (for a while). I'm running just two ID1000's as well. No staging. Hopefully that'll be enough fuel though I may need to run higher fuel pressure.

 

No worries, it actually looks similar to Pineapple's template. Defined's magic header will probably work wonders. Since you're only street ported(correct? may have missed it), the id1000's should be plenty. I'm hitting 20% duty cycle at WOT lol. Idle isn't stock smooth, but my idle tune and warm up maps are still a little off.

After visiting Rob at Pineapple Racing, he's built 4 port NA motors with s5 rotors that made up to 250whp depending on the porting. My only concern is if your ITB's are oversized for the porting and may reduce intake velocity.

 

DjSL- did you get your Haltech tuned in the PNW or somewhere else? Im working on an ITB build with Haltech but im not sure who I can take it to without driving 1000 miles.

 

Not to hijack infernosg's thread, but my car was tune by VIP Performance in Portland. Great group of people. Considering how bad my car was prior to tuning, they did great. I noticed the map and timing was a little skewed towards turbo rotary values (richer and less timing than an NA can handle) so I've tweaked the map a bit on my own. Overall, great shop though.

 

I cant help but be a bit jelly, what an awesome build sir! I to have been seriously considering the Miata gear swap. I wish there was more info on it...

 

What info do you need? You have to completely tear down a Miata transmission and a non-turbo RX-7 transmission side by side. There are some small internal differences but you can use the RX-7 FSM for both. Modify the Miata input shaft per Mazdatrix's instructions and re-assemble using the Miata gears and the RX-7 housings. I did a transmission dis-assembly/re-assembly how-to on another forum a while back. Maybe I'll repost it over here sometime.

 

This is a great build that I'm sort of mirroring on my car except I don't have the ITBs or Defined exhaust just yet.

I bought some sheet metal yesterday and am going to duct my radiator and oil cooler similarly to what you have done. Why did you decide to include that center divider? To make sure air had to go through the oil cooler? Did you make the inlet opening as big as possible while still fitting in the opening in the front bumper? I did quite a bit of reading about proper radiator duct design a few months ago and in the airplane world they make the radiator duct openings about 1/3rd the size of the radiator height while keeping the width of the duct the same as the width of the radiator. Measuring my Fluidyne height was about 17-18 inches and measuring the bumper opening it's about 6 inches so I was planning to just make my inlet about the same size as the bumper opening. This is my first radiator ducting attempt though so we'll see if theory matches reality...

Love this thread and can't wait to see your dyno results. Should help me decide on dual ITBs or making a custom manifold and run quad Hyabusa TBs similar to 23racer.

 

Infernosg: Sorry, I missed your fuel pressure detail. My car seemed to run fine on 45 psi at idle, but I upped it to 55 for better atomization (probably in my head only). The car seemed to run the same, but I obviously needed to lean my map out to compensate.

 

Yeah, that's the same rule of thumb I read as well. That's where the divider came in. I wanted to use as much of the inlet area as possible and get approximately 1/3 the area into both the radiator and oil cooler. I don't remember how close I got it but it should be enough. I think I'm actually over the 1/3 number for both due to the inlet size. To be honest I was surprised how small the oil cooler inlet ended up.

I was just thinking out loud based on some online calculators I've used for expected HP and fuel needs. None of them are really tailored to the rotary so it's not directly applicable but I seem to recall the standard 43 psi or whatever being a little low for my goal. My fuel system should be able to support 60+ psi if needed and the ID1000's will match it. I think my calculations put me in the 55 psi range as well.

 

So I'm about to have the wiring harness all buttoned up and I get to begin the daunting task of setting up the ECU and display. For the past year I've been turning the engine over about once a week by hand using the front pulley. With a working electrical system is there any harm in now using the starter as long as the ECU is unplugged and the spark plugs are out? I figure that would be a better way to get the oil pumped through the system as well.

 

That will definitely work and cause no harm as long as you don't hold the starter on forever and burn it up lol. Starters are only meant to run for short intervals

 

i really like what i see here. it is impressive and you should be proud. i can only wish that my car turns out half as nice as yours.

 

This is almost exactly the build that I wanted to do with my FC. Where in Virginia are you? And how did you figure out which ITB's you needed to use? I have tons of questions to ask, Lol. We should meet up for coffee sometime.

(Notice me senpai...)

 

LOL, I'll send you a PM. I was advised to seek a certain inlet diameter by the person who designed my port configuration. It came out to a little more than 52 mm x 2 and the EFI Hardware 55 mm kit was the closest. Once the I get the car running I'll be able to better determine if the sizing is right.

 

What do you still need to get it to run?

 

The biggest task is finishing the wiring. I'm about 1/2 way done with the power harness and then I can check to make sure the simple things like headlights still work. I need to redo the engine side of the engine harness since I've moved things around. Aside from those it's really just putting the interior back together and mounting a couple things. Then begins the daunting task of setting up the display and ECU - things I know little about.

 

Man, good luck with that. I hate wiring stuff.

 

I have a couple of questions, as I begin to think about doing my own engine build, in almost exactly this same manner.

The Haltech system you are running, Does it require a MAP sensor? Or if not, what method of air volume measurement are you using? Also, how did you run your brake booster vacuum?

Thanks in advance.

 

Sorry for the late reply. I don't check this forum too frequently.

I can only speak for the Haltech Platinum Sport and Sprint RE lines as those are the ones I'm familiar with. They both have internal MAP sensors and can be setup with external MAP sensors if higher pressures are expected. A MAP signal is not required to tune. You can tune based on throttle position and engine speed (alpha-n), which is how I plan to initially setup my tune. Due to my intake and throttle body setup I don't know if I'll ever have a stable enough vacuum signal to use MAP.

For my setup I have two vacuum ports: one in each of my primary intake runners. These are plumbed to a vacuum block to combine/amplify/stabilize the vacuum signal. Right now the vacuum block is only connected to the brake booster but I do have two unused ports that I can use for the ECU MAP signal and the fuel pressure regulator.

 

There's not a vacuum port on the TBs right after the throttle plates to hook into your vacuum block? I would think that would be the best spot to get a good signal for MAP tuning since the secondaries flow more than the primaries at higher RPM

 

I guess I should have been more clear. By "primary" I was referring to the main intake runners, not the primary intake ports. You can see in some of the pictures I posted my intake has two larger "primary" runners that split into two separate runners for the primary and secondary intake ports for each rotor. My vacuum ports are in each of these larger intake runners, basically just downstream of the throttle bodies like you mentioned.

Most tuners I've spoken with are concerned with my ability to get a stable vacuum signal with the large port and throttle body setup I have.

 

So I was going to update this thread with some pictures because the car is 95% complete but apparently this forum dislikes Chrome. The pages never completely load so I can't use the attach image function, which ends up gray-ing out the entire page. In IE the attach picture function doesn't let me copy images from Google Photos. How I miss the simple days of Picasa.

Basically: the interior is back together, I moved the ignition coils to the top of the engine, and I finished the chassis wiring harness. I need to get the engine harness remade, mount the fan shroud, and setup the ECU and display and that's pretty much it.

 

Ok I figured it was just a wording miscommunication since every throttle body has vacuum ports just behind the plates. Alpha-N will certainly be easier to get up and going but hopefully since you will still have strong enough vacuum signal to do speed density. Get that beautiful girl finished and a video of initial startup!

 

Is there anyone near, or know someone near the Richmond, VA area familiar with tuning rotaries? I'm pretty much done putting everything together and this is where I'm stuck. I can setup the ECU and Display but actually getting a running, baseline tune is something I don't trust myself to do.