I just about made it into the "text message generation" and im a devil for picking up bad habits =D hence my flagrant overuse of smileys. I cant help Me Self hehe.
I actually just remembered that i agreed to work tomorrow so i May have to wait until Sunday.
Typical...

 

I'm glad that it's finally decided to start. Congratulations!
I know the feeling...
Yes, you need SA22 wires, since you have N322 that uses distributor cap.
I ordered MSD cabels just to find out 2 wires are missing , cause euro spec. need 6 wires vs. 4 in all other known world (2L & 2T).

 

Yay!!!!!!

 

thanks! it really feels like a weight has been lifted from my shoulders. that **** was stressing me out more than i realised..

now i have read this a few times. if the euro ones have distributor caps, what do the u.s ones have? i tried to find some pics of engine bays but i didnt find anything that really explained the difference. why would they do that just for my model?

this also makes me wonder about the reason for butterflies instead of port sleeves. this is pure speculation of course, but i think that butterflies are less prone to rusting stuck if left for a long period of time without turning because of less metal to metal surface area. maybe its something they didnt forsee or even care about then when the car was produced.

the 13b seems to have gone through a few "it works so well worry about it later" changes from 86-92. its easy to be critical of 80's tech when its 2013 and theres so much more solutions to choose from.

one thing i can say is that the journey i have had with this car so far (i hope to be spending a portion of said "journey" behind the wheel) has really made me appreciate this car more and more. it has also heghtened my respect for other people worldwide that, despite sparse availability of parts, the inevitable fact that if it breaks, you have to fix it yo'dayum self, manuals that have tons of info on the stuff that works and not on the stuff that you do, ect ect, refuse to give up on they're rx7's and resist the temptaion to swap in an otto.

well, thats enough rambling from me anyway for today..

update tomorrow!

 

oh dear...
i put in a new battery and it started fine so we could finally run it for a while and get it up to operating temperature. then the unthinkable happened. the cooling system started overpressurising. exactly like it did before. the only way this can happen is if compression is being pushed out into the cooling system.
im going to call the engine builder and see what he says. after all i have been through with this car, to end up literally at square one does not feel all that great.
i dont see what it could be other than that.

this is breaking my heart guys..

 

hopefully i spoke too soon. we decided to drive around the block just to actually experience driving in the 7 after so long. when we came back it wasnt overheating! then we drove around a few times, still nothing. temp went up a touch so joel said we should put on the shroud just to check. now we've had it idling for at least an hour with no problems! wtf was that about? weird. were still here at the garage gonna keep her running for a while to see if anything happens. update later...

she knows how to play with my emotions, thats for sure..

i sincerely hope that it was just me being dramatic..

 

Maybe there was still some air in the system

 

seems that was the case.
now weve had her going since my last post. the alternator is not charging so that'll have to go in for a refurbishment this week. the ignition timing is a bit all over the place but well figure that out. considering i was seriously contemplating pulling the engine a couple of hours ago, things are looking really positive! and...... it hasnt snowed yet might even get to drive her a bit

 

Hope you drive it before snow falls.
But you will find that it is fun to drive it on a snowy surface.

Distributor cap and how it is connected you know because it is installed in your car.
Coil - distributor cap - spark plug


US spec is directly connected from leading and trailing coil to spark plug as you can see in the picture
I. CAS
II. Leading coil - conected to leading spark plugs
III. Trailing coil - conected to trailing spark plugs



Hope this helps. I dont know why they used it in S4 N/A for euro market (I can only presume), but S4 Turbo II euro spec. is like US spec.

 

Wow thanks risu! That explains alot! I was looking at a couple other threads about setting up the cas and i couldnt recognise some parts for the life of Me. WwwDefinately weird that they made compatability between euro and u.s spec 13b's such a pain in the ***. Would have made it alot easier if more stuff was interchangeable. Im assuming they had to pass certain regulations then it seems more often than not to be the Case.

They dont put down salt in The industrial area where my garage is and i have those alloys with spiked tyres plus the underside of the Seven has been treated with rust protection so it could be a bit tempting to go and have a muck-around in the snow later. They do plough quite regularly so it shouldnt be too Deep otherwise my car Will be a snowplough hehe =p

If i have the Money later i May even sort out a half-decent lsd. Then even rainy Days could be a right laugh!

 

ok dudes and dudettes.. i have a question. i have been checking out this thread about auxiliary port actuation. https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...9/#post2983941

i found the lumbar pump in a scrapyard online and went ahead and ordered it. according to this thread, i need a rpm switch. summit racing does them cheap but i would need to order it online from america and im really trying to avoid that as i really dont think i have alot of time left before it snows. i found an msd8950 rpm switch in a place a little under an hours drive away. only problem is the price. they wanted 1350kr (200 dollars). juicy... so heres the question. is there a way around this without me breaking the bank or am i going to have to lube up and bend over on this one?

oops, notices that i hadnt submitted this. thing is i have read a bit further and i have the rb true dual system and the auxiliary ports are actuated by exhaust backpressure on 86-88 rx7s. i apologise for my constant silly questions, but does this mean that i can run a vacuum hose straight from the tube that sticks out of the presilencer to the vacuum solenoids for the auxiliary ports and be done?

please say yes

 

OK, I'll say "yes" as long as you understand I really mean "no".
How's that work for ya?

TBH, I have no idea if that would work- I've never had to struggle with them not functioning- but I am sure you'll not figure it out as long as you keep conflating "vacuum" and "pressure".

Not sure about S4 actuators but S5's require 2-3psi of pressure to operate.
A bung in the exhaust can be configured (during construction) to pull vac or push pressure, find out which your exhaust does and go from there.

 

I have one of those MSD switches. Its in a bucket somewhere. I'll try and find it the next few days. If I do I'll send it to you for the cost of shipping. Sound like a deal?

 

ill admit, i had to google conflating i geuss i got a bit confused (and still am as per usual) because the hoses that go to the solenoids that work the butterflies look like vacuum hoses but thinking about it, they would need actual pressure, not vaccuum so ill assume that pressure runs through those hoses.

thing is, now that i have taken away the airpump and blocked off the acv and the egr valve(s). im wondering where i should attach the hose from the exhaust to so that it makes it through the maze that is the vacuum harness to the auxiliary port solenoids. i keep reading about this split air pipe but i cant seem to find its location. im gna have to keep digging basicly. im sure i read somewhere that the s4 needs 2psi to actuate the ports but i ant seem to find the thread again.

i went to the garage after work, specifically just to remove the alternator but i remembered that there was quite a nasty leak coming fromn the headers because the new gasket i got from atkins didnt fit for some reason so i had cleaned and re-used the one i had. i pulled the header out and replaced it using exhaust paste this time and it did the trick. i also tested a little tip one of the older chaps gave me to sort out that pesky freeze plug. ill put it this way, its not leaking anymore and now my engine smells like ginger.

i couldnt resist letting her idle for a while just to see if she came up to the correct temperature and stayed there, which she politely did. she seems to run quite cleanly considering we havent adjusted the timing properly yet but shes running rich like usain bolt.

the headers glow a bit. im not worried about that so much because wankels do put out alot of heat and i cant really get much of a thicker exhaust than the rb one.nor am i inclined to do so. my moneys running out



while the header was out i cleaned the nipple that sits on the pipe that sticks out of it and blew through it to check that it wasnt blocked. once i had put it back and started the engine i held my finger a little bit above and there was a fairly strong flow of exhaust coming out of it. i genuinely spent 2 hours surfing the net at work today (sometimes my job can be quite cushy, meaning sometimes i dont have to lift a finger, still get payed and can leave with a good concsience ) for a clear explanation of where i should run the hose from it to but i found nothing concrete. any pics would be helpful because i didnt find nuffink. there is what i think a o2 sensor threaded in to the header with a nice spanky purple wire sticking out of it. i geuss ill have to read up on that too.

i cancelled the order for the lumbar pump anyway. im gna try to get it to work this way. i tested that the solenoids worked by pushing it down with my finger and it moved quite freely. there was a bit of resistance but not that much that indicated to me that something was wrong.

i also feel i should add that during my initial panic the other day when the cooling system overpressurised i called the engine builder and told him that i was beginning to think that something was wrong with the work he had done. (politely of course) even though he made me wait half a year for it, it works and i felt a bit bad for making him think that the work he had done on my engine was not of good quality so i made sure to ring him back the next day and apologise for that.

i dont know why i added that but it seemed important

before i left i popped out the alternator and will be taking it to be refurbished first thing. im free tomorrow so im also considering digging the steelies out of the cellar and leaving them with my buddy robert so that he can start making plans as to how he's going to widen them. it feels appropriate to start doing stuff like that now that the engine's behaving itself for the time being...

 

thanks driftxsequence thats very kind of you but im gna try see if it works with the backpressure from the exhaust basicly because its the cheaper option. saying that, if it doesnt work you can expect a pm from yours truly

 

And?

 

Sorry about the radio silence had alot on my plate over the last couple of days. Mostly work but my little "expensive habit" is definately creating a need for more money if im going to at least finish off what I have planned with the seven.
Story so far is that last wednesday i left my alternator with a company my friend recommended to me amusingly called 'lightning service' its amusing because they promised that they would be finished by the end of the day. I didnt hear anything from them the next day, friday and they were closed over the weekend so I called them today while I was at work. At first they didnt even know what I was talking about and I know my Swedish isnt THAT bad. (though backtracking through this thread, my English might be...) then when I finally got through to someone that knew about it They said they had pulled it apart, put it together again and that there wasnt anything wrong with it and it was charging at 14v. I could have been a bit annoyed about the wait but they had a very redeeming quality. Honesty. They could have easily cheated me out of money but they charged me for what I think was about half an hours labour. Ill be going back to them in future if I need more done. I picked up the alternator after work today but I wont be able to make to the garage before wednesday. Hopefully ill get to drive around a bit but I dont dare do it at the moment without a mate following behind me jump cables in his car =)

 

i am beginning to suspect that the person who is in charge of arranging the shifts at my job is under the impression that i do not have a life......ok there is probably some truth to it but that doesnt take away the fact that i have an rx7 to finish before summer.

i dont know what i would do just to get a solid 8 hour kip in right now..

me and joel were at the garage last week and tried to sort out the igntion timing.. with quite poor results. this i put down to three things, it was freezing cold, we were both tired and didnt have alot of time that evening o we had to leave it. hopefully next week i will be able to get down there and have another crack at it.

ii also have to thank clokker for the tips on the v8 cables. i received the cables i had ordered and they were wrong anyway. yet again the general lack of knowledge concerning rx7's mixed with the desire of company's to still make money out of them bites me firmly in the ****.

the ones i have work anyway so im thankful for that.

concerning the rest of the project im working on rustling up some moolah so that i can order parts. should have the funds soon at the rate im working..

 

Man, oh man, do I sympathize.
We've started winter and I hate working in the cold.

I figure I'm about 30-40% less efficient below 40°F and try to adjust my expectations so I don't get frustrated.

 

jeez it gets that bad where you are? and here was me thinking of emigrating to america. (seriously, i am) maybe i have been watching too much dexter and think that everywheres got it like miami hehe =P
im fully with you it really blows working when its cold. mainly its my feet. it just destroys my concentration and usually results in me going home. ill be investing in some nice boots with some proper warm lining and see if that helps. one of the advantages of the new garage is that richard already had a great big diesel heater thingy which apparently gets the garage toasty. i dont care how much it costs to run its worth every penny imo.
if i can keep myself to what would round up to about 20% of your efficiency id be pretty happy with that

9 hours into my current night shift. 4 hours to go! *fanfare trails off*
i have been using my time to read up about this whole ignition timing thingummybobumathang on my laptop which has decided to grace me with what i hope will be uninterrupted functionality. (it didnt seem to want to work last week)

i just noticed that i hadnt even explained how it went the other day.
when me and joel were trying to adjust the timing last time for the first time, we tried turning the cas every which-a-way and in certain position it seemed better and in certain ones worse. so far so good. we got it to a position that seemed nice when it was idling but as soon as i tried to drive away it ran really crappy again (alot of backfiring). if i understand correctly, this would indicate that the timing is too far retarded right? thing is i dont know which direction rotating the CAS retards or advances the timing. it just makes me wonder if the main pulley is set right. the thing is, when i got my engine back, there were no colored markings on the main pulley, just two notches. the builder had advised me that i should, if facing the engine, set the notch to the left under the pin. thing is i dont know if thats the red one or the yellow one. i swear i have searched all over to see which one should be which but i havent found anything i can be 100% sure of.

therfore i have a couple of questions. with which i would greatly appreciate any help. (pretty please with a cherry on top?) i am even prepared to take some flak for my ignorance on the subject

1. if facing the engine, are the markings on the nothes painted red/right left/yellow or is it vice versa?

2.which color should i line up with the pin to set the engine to "0" (tdc?)

3. in which direction, when rotating the cas, is btdc or atcd?


whilst sifting through the multitude of mostly "not specific to my engine" threads, i read that when "setting the engine to 0" that it is possible to have the eccentric shaft pulley adjusted so that the pin sits BETWEEN the red and yellow marks. i wonder if this might be the answer. i read another thread where a gentleman tried a whole heap of different pulleys, with different results. i dont know if they were trying to show that all pulleys are marked up specifically for their respective engines they came out of the factory with but it gave me cause for concern.

just thinking outloud again but all the how to's on here are for the u.s version which are different from mine as kindly illustrated by risu, hence the quandry i find myself in .

i think as long as im not too mashed up by the time this bloody 13hr shift is over i might cruise over to the garage and make a start on figuring this out properly. the puddles are starting to freeze over and the days are so short now Solens upp- och nedgång för olika orter i Sverige - DinStartsida.se so i dont imagine i have much time left if i want to drive this thing on dry tarmac while its still 2013.. those poor bastards up north are only getting a little over 2 hours of sunlight a day. no wonder the suicide rate is high here...

 

Dude, I live in Denver, where "MIle High" doesn't just mean legal weed, it's our actual altitude. I see Pikes Peak from my driveway, so yeah, it can get cold here.

You should definitely come over but probably stay away from Florida.
Florida is like that weird cousin in the family, kinda cute but eats live rats and listens to Morrissey. Fer crissakes, they elected Skeletor as Governor.

I'd leave your love of Dexter off the immigration application.
Your bureaucrat may have hated the finale like everyone else apparently did.

 

Just started season four so itll be a while till i find out. I dunno man i just want more sun. Im not greedy, i just want at least half of the year to be nice driving weather and i am really tired of spiked tyres. Theyre a royal pain (and expensive. I generally try not to cheap out on tyres)

I didnt go to the garage today because the weather was crappy. Its kind of an annoying stage of the project because i have to be outside and daylight is always nice. At least it 'seems' warmer. Joel reckoned he had just got it right before we left last time but the engine flooded for the umpteenth time so we left it. Thats definately gna be something i plan to remedy later. Its been getting better all the time but still a.noying enough to want to do something about it...

 

Finally, a day off.. went to the garage with but the battery was dead. Fortunately tomorrow is a day off too and the battery is charging as i speak.. the day wasnt completely idle though. Ive been putting off putting on my winter tyres but after a bambi on ice episode the other day i thought it prudent to slap on my spikeys today. A mate of mine even let me use his tyre machine. I also sorted out a new job. (Again) so i feel like i got stuff done but i want to get stuff done on the 7. Hopefully tomorrow willl give me the feeling of progress ive been missing for a while..

 

Went back today. She doesnt want to start. Yesterday the engine was super cold so we left the heating fan on overnite and it was about 10 degrees in the garage when i got there. Pulled the plugs, they were doused in petrol. Must have tried the deflooding procedure about ten times. A couple of times it seems like it ignited at least once in the exhaust directly when i cranked her over. I think its definately not there yet with the ignition timing. Geuss ill have to get down there on the weekend with a load of patience and a stroboscope.....

 

I Wasnt planning to be with old betty today but i ended up there for some reason. Had to wait a couple hours for my mate to come with the key to the garage. I dont know if chivlary is dead but punctuality has had a funeral service and a cremation when it concerns my buddys. Äh.. nobodys perfect. Anyway, i think i might be on to something.. i tried to start her again today and it was definately igniting the fuel in the exhaust and stubbornly refused to start. I decided to "reset" the engine again. All this time i have been ( im pretty sure of it anyway) lining up the red mark on the main pulley with the pin. This is because the engine builder was very clear that i should do so. In his defence i have painted on the marks myself. Red/left, yellow/right according to the pics ii have seen on the web. When it started before it ran like total poo and seemed really really off. (Really) This time i lined up the yellow mark. I noticed a considerable improvement directly but as per the law of sod the battery kinda got tuckered out from my frustrated crankage. Again.

As you can imagine, i have pulled the plugs a multitude of times since installing the engine. But theres some proper scooby doo spooky **** going on. Sometimes the leading plugs are dry as a bone when the trailing plugs are wet. I have heard advice on here and from friends that. Bad grounding can cause really wierd stuff. I remembered that i had planned to replace the ground cable from the bellhousing to the firewall but when i looked at it this evening it was apparrent that i forgot. I had cleaned up the connections but the actuall cable looks in really bad shape, and imo waaay to thin.

Im gna replace it after work tomorrow and try my luck..