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Most likely fuel cut due to the higher boost levels because of the less restrictive exhaust. Best bet from here is to get a fuel cut defender (Racing beats sells them I believe) or get an aftermarket ECU.
Ok people, summer is now over and it's time for the FC ti bunker down in a small warm garage for the winter.
I'm going to start a real build thread during the dark winter months where I'm going to battle through multiple propblems. Until then I hope you all have a pleasant fall and a lovely winter!
Need to port your turbo wastegate to get rid of boost creep caused by the larger racing beat exhaust. Search turbo wastegate porting, and you will find tons of threads on how to do it.
On the s4 turbo, you will find that many people recommend porting larger than the stock flapper door and using an exhaust valve or a heavy duty washer to weld over top of the stock one.
In my personal experience I do not find this to be necessary. Unless you have access to good welding equipment and know what you're up to, a valve may break off and washers disintegrate in the heat eventually. . I chose to port right up to the very wee little edge of the stock door, and I back cut the port very aggressively to smooth gas flow through it. I also ground down the backside of the back plate in a uniform way to allow the wastegate door arm to open farther.
I run a 3" down and mid pipe to a racing beat NA catback. I also did away with the stock airbox for one cool evening to be sure.. I have zero boost creep. The turbo peaks at 6.5-7psi and stays there all the way to redline in any gear.
Time to take this little thread out of hybernation.
I've ported the wastegate on my turbo (pics coming later) and was wondering if that really is enough to help me with the boost creep.
Been looking for a soution other than the external "Fuel Cut Defender" and came across the RTEK7. RTEK7 1.5 would be suitable for my needs but I'm still not sure what I need to get the thing in running condition.
Let me list this to help everyone out, so do I:
- Need to run in the PocketLogger programm to get the car to even start?
- Can I just "pop" in the new chip and be on my way
- If anyone has tuned their ride themself here, is it a job that a "newbie" can do?
Just to be sure I'm talking about the 1.5 chip which is the most simplest of them all.
The 1.5 does not interface with pocket logger. That's reserved for 2.0 and 2.1, as both of those installs include a data port that the lesser models do not.
So as far as I am aware, the 1.5 is plug and play. I've got a 1.7 S4 t2 Rtek chip I'd sell you if interested. Pm me.
Time to take this little thread out of hybernation.
I've ported the wastegate on my turbo (pics coming later) and was wondering if that really is enough to help me with the boost creep.
Been looking for a soution other than the external "Fuel Cut Defender" and came across the RTEK7. RTEK7 1.5 would be suitable for my needs but I'm still not sure what I need to get the thing in running condition.
Let me list this to help everyone out, so do I:
- Need to run in the PocketLogger programm to get the car to even start?
- Can I just "pop" in the new chip and be on my way
- If anyone has tuned their ride themself here, is it a job that a "newbie" can do?
Just to be sure I'm talking about the 1.5 chip which is the most simplest of them all.
Thanks in advance!
Best regards; -Sampo-
If you're doing an rtek I would do the 1.7 at least with larger secondary injectors just to be safe...
but no, there is no pocket logger on any of them, they're just plug and play tunes, you can't change anything.
Okay, some updates. The awful sound coming from the differential was driving me crazy so I switched the diff with my buddy. The whole thing went a lot more smoothly than I would have expected.
Raised her up on the jacks and took some deep breaths before starting to tare out the rear axle
Everything came off clean and I was worrying over nothing...
Gave the rear axle and the new diff a good wash and a scrub, also removed some rust from the axle
Painted the diff and the axle, mostly to protect them from rust, dirt etc. but it looks nice as well
Almost ready to go back in to the car
All set! No more bleeding ears when I go over 60km/h
The turbo switch is going to happen in the next up coming weeks. Need to find some time 'cause work has been taking up all my evenings lately.
Rtek chip is still on the shopping list. Will be buying that as soon as I have some money to spend. For now I hope the ported turbo and my not so heavy pedal foot will be enough to save me from the fuel cuts.
I also tested some wax that my co-worker recommended!
Nice and shiny! Was a b***h to spread though...
That's all for now but I'll be back with some more pics and info on the car after I'm done with the turbo swap!
Started the turbo swap yesterday. It's been a bit of a mess trying to clear out some room to actually get to the old turbo and the exhaust manifold.
Managed to take apart the upper intake manifold and disconnected all the hoses + electrics running to the intake and turbo. Also took out the oil and water lines.
For some reason I can't seem to upload any images at the moment. Will be back with some pics later.
Never mind, now the pictures uploaded properly...
The first one is my "new" turbo taken apart so I can clean up some parts.
Second picture is a 1/8" G thread I made for a better hose outlet from the turbo.
Last picture is the wastegate porting I made. Feel free to tell me what you about it!
Upper intake manifold, taking off the old hoses and connectors was nerve wrecking...
Upper intake manifold gone, got everything out without breaking stuff. Only hose I had to cut was the waterline coming up to the intake from the block, just couldn't get the bastard off.
Got the turbo out today. Also made some progress on the "new" turbo's parts.
Old turbo out! I'm planning on getting rid of some of the emission thingies. Mocked up one of the cover plates.
Here she is. The whole thing is dirty as hell, but it works just fine. Maybe I will just clean it up a bit and keep it as a spare.
If someone has any tips or tricks considering the emission removal I would be more than happy to get some advice.
I have read through the archived version of the emission delete and that has helped me to understand what I should and can remove.
Never mind, now the pictures uploaded properly...
The first one is my "new" turbo taken apart so I can clean up some parts.
Second picture is a 1/8" G thread I made for a better hose outlet from the turbo.
Last picture is the wastegate porting I made. Feel free to tell me what you about it!
Have to measure the pipe later this week but you should find all the info on Racing Beat's site. The sound is really nice. It's low and deep under 3000rpm but gets louder after that. It also looks really good in my oppinion.
Nice! I have never seen the piping in person for the DP. I have had a few cat backs. I will be needing a new DP soon and this is one I am considering. Would you reccomend it over something that can be fabbed from thicker metals. I am just not wanting that high pitch sound thinner (but still good) metal gives. I hate the sound of titanium on rotary cars for some reason.
Thanks for the replies!
Hopefully the porting will be big enough. I will get some detailed pics of the downpipe this weekend when I get back to the garage.
In the mean time, here are photos of the parts I have cleaned up.
Compression side cleaned up and ready for paint.
Painted the compression side with black heat resistant spray and heated it up so it actually sticks.
Couldn't find any silver or grey heat resistant paint so I had to go with black. Still looks good in my opinion.
Still need to clean and paint the heat plates and get some new rubber hoses to replace some of the old ones.
Will be back with pics later the upcoming week.
09-23-16, 07:50 AM
