j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

so in the last few weeks i built a guitar, put the automatic climate control in the Rx8 and went and played halloween, so i haven't touched the car.

so yesterday i wired up the air pump clutch, incorrectly of course. so then i spent half the day trying to figure it out and then battery was dead.

so it ran better, but it was still kind of smokey/rich.

after some pondering where to go next i decided to put in the super AFC i had, because at least i can lean it out at idle, and see something i guess.

so i wired it in, judging by the dog, this was extremely boring



i fired it up, and lo and behold, it runs pretty much fine. before it was clouds of smoke at idle, and now its fine. SAFC needed no adjusting.. i was able to bring idle speed down to 750 even.

i'm blaming the MAP sensor connection (again!). i used the FC boost sensor wiring for the MAP sensor, and since the FC sensor is on the engine harness and the FD is on the body harness, i have a connector in between, so i can remove the engine harness, and i don't think this plug is working

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

and then the power window switch broke...

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Next up, the clock dies.

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

Good progress! Something about the twin turbos in a FC seems very intriguing to me.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

lmao, i didn't get the warning cluster at all. i found an S4 one, but the pinouts/locations of the lights are different, so its kind of comical, but perhaps better than an empty hole?

scrapp

iTrader: (1)

lulz @ the doge. much wow.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

lmao since you mentioned it, and this really illustrates how this car has been, its the incorrect warning light cluster but the clock works perfectly.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Enjoy your easy access to time while you can.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i think i can say with some degree of certainty that when i find an S5 warning light cluster, it won't work

clokker

iTrader: (2)

For some unknown reason I've elevated my clock into a bellweather for the rest of the car.
If the clock works, all is right with the electrical system, if not, I feel like it's deteriorating.

Mine was fine for several months but has been flickering for a while, despite two solder attempts.
It used to be the lighting that failed but now the clock itself has started fritzing out and I fear it's a lost cause.

My Miata gauge cluster has provision for all the warning lights I deem necessary and were I not so lazy I'd move them over and eliminate the stock warning cluster altogether.
The cluster/bezel are so oddly shaped though that filling the hole would be awkward.
If I could figure out how to deal with that, I'd do it.

scrapp

iTrader: (1)

My motto is usually: "Oh,you decided to join us today?"

squeakm

Wow this is amazing, we're nearly doing the exact same thing!

Im now running paraellel turbos and an apexi PFC thou
but i decided to use the s5 loom aswell,
Had a question about the tps harness you made.
You posted a picture of it althou it doesnt look like thats actually looks like the CAS harness
anyway

The fc wiring has 2 sets of brown with white wires and brown with black
in my research it only mentions wiring one brown with white that being ecu pins fd(3I) to fc(2I)

I really struggle to read wiring diagrams but am i right in saying the brown and black is ground anyway?
should i wire all the brown black together?
what about the left of brown with white from the fc i think that is just the position sensor for the secondary butterflies?

squeakm

link to my build
AusRotary.com • Login

FAL

iTrader: (16)

Nice build

link doesn't work

squeakm

Well thats **** didnt realise you needed to be a member of ausrotor to veiw builds,

Soo i moved everything to here, ausrotory is pretty much dead to fc's now anyway new link!
sorry for just dumping everything it is picture heavy too

https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...rsion-1050620/

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

its really simple, the S5 uses TWO throttle position sensors on one bracket. the FD has the same two sensors, but in one sensor.

so the FC needs two 5v powers, and two grounds, one for each sensor, plus the two signal wires, which gets you to 6 wires.

the FD has one 5v power, and one 5v ground, and then the two signals, 4 wires.

so the two extra wires just aren't used when you put an FD TPS on.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

not at all! i have an ancient border 3 gauge pod that replaces the warning lights completely.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

this thread is so old its not even the first search result!

progress has been made. so the wiring is kind of done, the CEL is off, and it runs quite nicely.

i tried to fit an FC water pump, as this would just let me run a 100% stock cooling system, fan, hoses etc etc, but no fit, the FD fuel rail hits... so i'm keeping the FD parts.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

and then i did stuff to things!

the air pump was really loud, so i took it apart and found a broken snout(!) so i ended up putting the FD clutch on a 20B pump

a couple shots of the car included in case we forgot what it looks like, which isn't the first time!

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

Looking good.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

progress has progressed!

i installed the intercooler, since its an old school Greddy kit, it required a custom pipe to be fabbed up. that blue coupler in the center will get replaced with a weld at some point.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i cleaned and lubed the window regulators, i highly recommend this, as the grease Mazda used has turned into the oil shale.....

i also took apart, and cleaned and treated the door panels i scored

ioTus

iTrader: (5)

Subscripted.

My windows seem to work OK on dry days, but when it gets wet they get REALLY sticky. Brand new OEM mazda window channel strips and guides

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

what kind of grease did you use for the window regulators?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

anything is better than what is in there, but i used the same redline CV2 grease i use on the wheel bearings