Here is their store:
Level Zero Motorsports

I had them anodize mine clear because I didn't really like the red and he said he was about to make another batch so it wouldn't be a big deal... but it took a long time.

 

with my old 245/275 stagger I actually had a lot of front lock up issues... but that was probably just due to dead hoosiers... the 315 square setup I've run so far is super dead, so I can't really tell much about that either.

The main purpose of the adj. prop. valve is just the capability of being able to fix issues that arise and maybe tuning that last tenth out of the brakes.

 

thing looks like a beast!

 

we put a brake pressure sensor in the race car, and its interesting, our fast driver, brakes harder for less time than everyone else. his brake application is almost like a square wave, vs everyone else.

so he nets a 10th, just because he spends that much less time getting on and off the brakes.

 

I'm still on the fence about weather I want to actually port the engine or just clean up the stock ports... stock ports are pretty torquey *shrug*

I was really happy with the second set of ports I did for my SSM TII. I did an early opening, but near stock closing port job to try to preserve torque through port velocity (low port/runner volume) and lack of compression chamber reversion (early intake closing).

When porting for early opening you should port the closing edge just enough to get some scissor action on the sideseals (mainly important on the taller 2ndary ports) and you have to have a small radius on the outer top corner of the port so the tip of the sideseal does not hit the plate here first.

If you do these two things you won't get the "streetport wear" on sideseals/plates that even big name rotary tuners tell you is normal.






Exhaust port on Left- opens a little earlier, closes stock.

Turbo, modified stock hybrid BNR Stage4 (60-1 with P trim exhaust).

Here is Dynojet graph @ 12psi boost before dyno tune. Each dot in the Blue (top) HP line is 1,000rpm with graph starting at 2,000rpm. Torque was calculated as ignition lead didn't work out.


Here is Dynopack once tuned @12psi boost and then @14psi boost. As you can see it didn't load as much as the Dynojet so boost came on a little slower.


I think the turbo/exhaust set up is where you will really find/lose the torque.

If you are sticking with the S5 stock hybrid turbo I would try to get/make a 3.5-4" exhaust or at least downpipe/midpipe and when you get boost creep, control it with a restriction at the very end of the exhaust system. This should get you the most torque in my experience.

 

you would know! i really like those ports, too. on a turbo less (port) is more

 

Thanks. I really appreciate the pictures. I pretty much decided to port the engine last night after flip flopping back and forth a few times. Your ports looks similar to what I was planning to do after talking to Rob and pineapple racing a few months ago. I'll have to compare them more closely when I get home tonight.

I have templates from him for a medium street intake port (which looks similar to yours maybe a bit bigger) and a "medium size turbo" exhaust port.

he told me to move the top of the exhaust port down 1.5mm, but after looking at it I was just planning on just porting down like you did.

exhaust will be on my list in the future... I currently just have a RB 3" which is probably way heavier than it needs to be. I'm worried about the creep though. I turned off my boost controller during my track day and I was still creeping up to ~10-12 psi.

 

yeah, that's definitely something I have to work on as a driver, it's really important in autocross since there are more corners and brake zones... I tend to coast and get on and off the brakes slower than I should... but currently the brakes don't really inspire confidence, hopefully these changes will help.

 

how much boost do you plan on running on this engine? I'm gonna be somewhere between 10-15 and cant decide if I should add aux injection or not. I'll be beating on it for 20 minutes at a time on the track so I'd rather be safe than sorry.

 

it has a lot to do with what turbo you're running (what turbo are you running?)

I was running ~12 psi before, and I'll probably stick to that, maybe go up to 15 psi. I'm not sure what I'll be able to get away with with the 9.7:1 rotors. but on the track I'll probably dial that back to 10-12 (aka, boost creep levels)

I'm still on a BNR stage 2 though, so the 12 psi coming out of it is a bit hotter than 12 psi coming out of a GT35...

 

I forgot about that part... I'm running something similar to a BNR stage 1.

On wastegate pressure with a highly modified wastegate hole I boost crept on the 6 port up to 15.

With the FD rotors its pretty solid right now around 10 psi. I've only hit that a few times though so it may change.

 

Yeah, boost creep is the real bummer with stock based turbos.

Since both exhaust and boost control are free besides the noted exceptions in Street Prepared (and SP carries over to SSM for you) what I plan to do with my ASP FD RX-7 is to exhaust throttle it at the terminus.

Basically, put a throttle plate at the end of the exhaust that is normally open and a wastegate actuator to close it at the desired boost.

This way I can get the really good spool from a large exhaust without the boost creep.

 

here are the pineapple racing intake templates. a bit bigger than the ones you made, but shouldn't be too bad I don't think.

 

Our porting discussion has moved to here haha:
https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-p...orque-1042942/

I got home late last night, but did manage to make a bracket for the wilwood adj. prop. valve. I think it turned out pretty good. I used old brake lines and persuaded them into the right shape... I might replace them later and bend them a bit nicer. I still need to run the vacuum line for the booster. I need to go to the parts store and get a 3/8" check valve because I won't be using the stock vacuum line anymore (which has it built in)

 

which brake booster is that? landon said the 90s 929MC slides in nice and easy. I was thinking of getting one of those. I cant even lock up my brakes with this little 4 lug MC.

 

the the brake booster and 1" master cylinder off an early 90's 929.

You need at least a S5 T2 booster to use the 929 MC (it doesn't fit the normal booster), but I'd recommend getting the 929 booster too, it's larger. I paid $50 for mine from a junk yard.

 

also, the "T" I have on the MC is a stock mazda piece (from the 929 I think) for non-abs cars. There are only 2 ports on the 929 MC and one is a banjo style connection.

There are very few left at mazda (they already changed the title in the mazdamotorsport site to "NLA" (no longer available) but it looks like they still have some...)

T fitting: EA03-45-451B
banjo bolt: W023-43-505
copper washer: 2x 9956-21-000

 

got some work done this weekend:



Hylomar is the nastiest substance I've ever encountered...

tonight I have to set the end play, finish assembling it and maybe drop it in.

 

Im excited to see how your high compression rotors do. I cant wait to see this thing on the track

 

I'm actually a bit worried about it lol, but with ALS apex seals and turblown studs hopefully it'll stay together

 

You may need to super-port the wastegate. When I did the 6 port turbo I ported it out, added a larger washer and it still crept up to 15psi.

 

S4 or S5 turbo?

Mine's a BNR stage 2, and I told BNR to port is as much as he could because I was already creeping like crazy, I've never actually looked at what he did to it though. last time I tried to take the rear cover off a turbo I took the heads off the bolts lol

 

I'm running a S4 hot side. I forgot you have S5! Yeah Mine snapped off once...half the bolt. that was a day long project trying to get the remnants out of the hole.

 

getting there....

 

You work fast!