I got my radiator back. It's looking pretty good.

Ben, I told the shop I didn't really care about the tabs, so they cut them off. Sorry I can't test the new shroud for you. But it looks good, it should work fine.

 

looks good, I love the twin fan idea but I need to find out how much the S4 electrical system draws, you said the amp on the alternator is rated at 60, the twin fans draw how much again.

I would also have to find a fan controller for that amperage.

You said your car will be down all winter, when you start again next year let me know.

Your set-up is perfect for testing things. Very aggressive and you put things through the ringer and show if it holds up.

I know the shroud I have will work for street driving and 1/4 stuff with some spirited driving. But for a hard core dedicated set-up, I would like to show my product can support that too.

If you can help me out a bit, I'll pay shipping both ways. I'll send you my rad/shroud combo, can you try it out on your set-up. It will come complete so it would just be the 4 bolts that hold the rad in and the 2 wires for the fan. An easy swap. I can test it on some back roads out where I live but I have a stock engine and turbo.

Let me know.

Again I like your set-up. I'll see how it works for you and provide it for my version 2 kit.

Thanks a million for your feed back.

Ben

 

It's a Spal 30102052. It looks like it draws ~30A. Probably not the best idea on an S4 alternator (I have an FD alternator if anyone is concerned) I might have to run a second power wire from my battery to actually power it. I'll have to look up how much amperage the wire I have coming from the battery is good for.

I installed the radiator today with the fan and it fits great. much more room between the water pump and the fans:


It doesn't even look like I'll have a problem with the rubber flaps hitting the water pump.

 

You are gonna love the fan setup. Mine is working great, and cools off really fast when sitting still or driving. I'm using the old wire that went to the alternator to power the fans. The black wire that is T'ed with the plug, right under the main fuse block. I think it is 8 gauge. That is a little overkill but it's working well and is only about a foot to my fan relays. I run one relay per fan.

 

how much was the fan setup? or where could I find it?

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003PB9R0U

 

It looks like even with the ps pump installed in stock location the belt will still clear. In your pic your belt is lower with your ps relocated.

Looks sweet.

 

Hey are you still running the Sparco Sprint V's? I'm looking into seats soon and these look like a good deal. I really want a Pro2000 but when I can get two Sprint V's for the price of one 2000 it seems like a no brainer if they're comfy and do their job well.

 

Yeah, I still have them. They're not really the most comfortable, but they're not bad. I would try to sit in one before you commit. They're steel tube frame seats, not fiberglass buckets....

 

So I've worked a bit on the car the last few nights....

currently 1 fan is hooked up. I had to go to radioshack to get some 10 gauge wire and an inline fuse to hook up my other fan....

the new wideband is all installed except for 1 wire...

new battery is installed and I replaced the 2 gauge wire going from my circuit breaker to my starter... hopefully it starts a bit better.... the wiring could be a bit better, I might clean it up over the winter some time:


my camber link collection is also getting out of hand:


Car should be good to go for the DC area cruise meet this weekend (I haven't been to an rx7 meet in years...). and then the rear suspension is coming off and getting sent to Fat Cat motorsports to get revalved.

 

I'm only on page two of this build thread but I'm really excited already! I know you have the same Vmount as me so I'm waiting to hear how you like that as well. Great build and updates keep it up!

I think you're inspiring me to make my own thread too

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So, I went on a cruise on Saturday and the car held up fine.

The new battery worked great, the car started up like 5 or 6 times. Some times it feels like it's just barely catching so I might have to look at my cranking settings in the megasquirt...

For some reason only 1 of my fans is working (the one wired to the existing wiring). I think the relay I had in a random box might just be bad. when I bypass it it works fine. but the car still cooled off pretty well with only 1 fan so I'd say the new fan shroud is a success.

New wideband works great....

hopefully tonight I'll have time to pull the rear dampers to modify them a bit and then send them off to get revalved.

 

Don't think I've posted a picture of these. These are the AWR rear bilsteins:


off to get revalved

 

Wow. Your build is amazing. It's cool to see everything coming together, then apart, then together again. We have some similar ideas + parts.

I think you inspired me to start my build thread.

 

Have you thought about AI?

 

Thanks.

AI for what? Knock suppression? Most of my knock is coming from not being able to control the boost. I'm going to work on fixing that before attempting to band-aid it any further.

 

For a rotary engine that you plan to track, I'd highly recommend it. The key is not to tune to it but just to use it as an additional safety factor. Been running AI on the same stock motor since 2008 with hundreds of pulls at 20+ psi. I'm willing to bet AI has a lot to do with that.

 

Eage,

Did the battery supplied with the v-mount not work out for you or?

 

My battery was already relocated so I didn't get Ben's battery kit.

 

There's a ton of benefits to AI. That's just one of them.

I was thinking more of lowering temps, and reducing carbon build up. I don't think you suffer from the latter, but the first would help you out quite a bit. And like rx7 SE said, I wouldn't make it so that you depend on it, but so that it helps further with it.

Look at some posts by Howard Coleman. He's been swearing by it for years. I think it would do a lot for you.

 

i think in all of his travels he's proved you don't need it. he was running ~500hp just fine without it, when the nozzles were clogged.

additionally he went through a whole bunch of different AI systems, some with pretty disastrous results.

 

I took my front bar off... hopefully I won't need it anymore.

My 27mm whiteline bar was 15.6 lbs with endlinks and everything else. not a bad weight reduction for the nose of the car.

 

i wonder what the stock bar weighs? probably 15.4lbs huh?

 

I weighed the stock 24mm bar a while ago and it was 9 lbs and some change with no endlinks or brackets or anything...

Maybe I'll weigh them both with no endlinks or brackets and get accurate comparison numbers.

 

What change have you made to not need the front bar anymore? 1000lbs springs?