BurritoBut

So after spending hours and hours on this site I have decided to make a build thread.

Also always open to advice or ideas on what to do/improve next!

Sorry about the lack of decent photos!

Quick Details
- Emissions removed
- Gilmer belt drive
- Aftermarket exhaust (prievious owner)
- 50mm thick radiator
- short shift kit
- Front and back Cusco strut bars
- New turbo = S5 RX7 turbo turbine housing and wheel, TO4b .60ar compressor cover with garrett V trim compressor wheel
- Throttle body mod
- S5 intercooler
- Soon to have Jeep Rims
- Battery relocated to boot
- Lowering springs
- Power steering removed
- S5 manual
- Lightened flywheel
- OMP removed/2-stroke


So this was it when I first got it.

1987 Turbo, with about 110xxxk's on it iirc. Unfortunately it was an auto, but I didn't care - I finally had an FC!

Had no back seats which it has now




I immediately started playing around with it.
Here is an early shot of the ugly engine bay just after I got a new gilmer drive belt set.


The clear coat on the tail lights and flaked off and looked crap.


So I got painting



If anyone is interested in how I did it I can go into more detail, still looks mint after almost 2 years.

Also tidied up the front


Got a nice flash radiator,
And I think at this point I had converted it to manual.



I then decided to take it off the road for a while and replace things/tidy/paint.

Original plans were to just remove the emissions..lol.

This is an early shot of the beginning of the strip down.





New turbo

S5 RX7 turbo turbine housing and wheel, TO4b .60ar compressor cover with garrett V trim compressor wheel. The wastegate is ported.

Previous owner of the turbo had it on his car on the dyno and got 215rwkw at 8.8psi, running a haltech e6x and a extended port 13bt.




After a splash of paint (sorry about quality)

tuscanidream

iTrader: (6)

Sweet! The Mazda on the scoop is unique.

BurritoBut

Also re-taped the entire loom in white. The old tape was falling apart.



Painted up the P/S pump but decided to remove it fully


more progress...



Can't really see it but I made new air intake piping


Preparing to put the battery in the back


Done!


Fixed the center console plastics, actually came out much better than expected.
Was extremely cheap and easy too. Can do A write up if anyone is interested.
Before


After



Wheels that will be going on, from a Jeep Cherokee (Ill be painting them up first)




So what's it up to now?

Just chilling in the garage to be started for the first time since coming off the road. Have had some amazing help from HAILERS2 sorting out teething issues. Just getting close to exam time at University so not a lot has been done as of late. I can't wait to get it back on the road!

Here is a recent pic...




I'm open to idea's on what to do next.

I'm paranoid that I NEED to get bigger injectors/after market ecu/bigger fuel pump just so it wont run lean.


I'll definitely rewire the fuel pump and look at upgrading the alternator to keep a good voltage, but with my setup should I be looking at injectors/ecu/FP before driving it again?

brian_skotch

iTrader: (6)

I'd be careful that you don't hit fuel cut on the stock computer. Bigger injectors and some sort of computer should be considered. You can get an rtek for fairly cheap and that should suit your needs pretty well!

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

+1
215kw is roughly 290hp and stock injectors/fuel pump are nowhere near up to the task. The FD fuel pump is cheap easy to install and is good to 300hp. 550/720 incectors should get you to about that as well, although you might want to go 4x720 so you can run lower duty cycle. The rtek 2.1 has injector presets for both of those setups and will also allow you to pull timing as boost increases.

BurritoBut

Awesome, thanks for the advice!

The 215rwkw is what the previous owner of the turbo was running, I doubt I would be anywhere near that.

I will have a look at injectors/rtek, I'll probably get a Walbro fuel pump (GSS340/GSS341) as mentioned on FC3Spro.com.

How much tuning is involved with the rtek?

Wonder how much power it would make.

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

The high pressue walbro is good for roughly 400whp in a rotary so that will work fine.

There isn't much involved w/the rtek (part of what makes it great for beginners). Just send off your ecu (or a spare) they install the daughter board and chip and u reinstall just like stock. It retains the stock fuel /timing maps so no need to search for a base map, and it allows you to make adjustments as a % of the stock map. Timing adjustments are made via boost based timing maps, many of which are available in the rtek sub section in the ecu area of this forum. Basically just richen up the boost areas of the map, then datalog and pull fuel until you are running the afr you want. Digitaltuning.com is the manufacturer website.

I don't know why you wouldn't make the same power? V-trim hybrids have been known to break the 300w mark rather frequently and w/an ecu, fuel pump and injectors you'll have what u need to do so.....well and tuning of course.

BurritoBut

Sounds pretty straight forward.

Only problem is that being on the other side of the world it may be a paint sending it over.

I also have a n340 ecu (spare, will check actual one later) which isn't compatible or mentioned on the ecu list.

Justen

iTrader: (12)

cherokee wheels?! Nice lol! what size/width?

how exactly did you rig the gilmer setup to run power steering while you had it?

gameova

iTrader: (17)

what size are those wheels???

Steves13b

iTrader: (9)

interested in seeing those cherokee wheels on, looks like they have a hi offset, might be kinda goofy. i like the wheels from the first pic better in my opinion. i like the way your engine bay came out and i wish my brake booster was on that side! lol keep up the good work!

BurritoBut

Haha! The wheels are 15x7 + 40 offset. They are a bit of a gamble as to whether or not they will look good but they were only $120 NZ on trademe so can't complain.

I do like the wheels on it now but one is munted by the previous owner and I was quoted about $800 for get it fixed.


Here are some crappy pics...



I'm hoping they look good in a 80's kind of way, also haven't seen any others with these rims.

I originally wanted them like this..


I'm presuming that is a very rare option as I have never seen ones like that in person. I can't find any paint that I think would look good enough for that colour so I'll probably paint black.

Found this pic on here and its the closest thing I have seen, they are Riken 15's




As for the gilmer's, here is an early pic of the motor. You can see that there is a V-belt pulley that bolts to the front that runs the original belt. I have since removed it will be selling it off.
Sorry again, most of my photos are terrible (phone)




I would like to add that my car would be NOTHING without this site. I literally went through the entire tech archive and have done everything I can haha.

magus2222

iTrader: (22)

heres a pic of my old beater shell i got rid of when they still had those wheels

Lloyd

Steves13b

iTrader: (9)

if you dont like the cherokee wheels i know the front wheel on that purple car are ford crown vic wheels, much lower offset and deeper lip

BurritoBut

Oh mean, they don't look too bad!

I'll try them out and keep an eye out for some Ford ones.

Justen

iTrader: (12)

well I like 'em. Hell, I might even pick up a set if I came across them for cheap. they'd be awesome drift spares, used 15" tires are a dime a dozen around here.

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

15"....high offset....no lip......no thanks.

There are much better options that are cheap, I'm sure you could get a set of 16x8 R32 skyline wheels for cheap, or FD wheels, or 300zx or 3000gt..eerrr GTO etc etc...

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

new zealand dont you guys get imported skylines? if you ever come accross some r33 gtr wheels, those look great on fc http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/a...sx/fcedit2.jpg

but nice project, car is coming along good. If you ever repaint those tail lights again, gloss black looks great compared to satin.

BurritoBut

Yea we get all those, there are some great options. I wanted to get FD wheels but it's illegal to have spacers here without a certificate which is costly.

Dam those r33 rims are nice!

FD/r32/300zx wheels are roughly $300-500.

I really wanted a set of cosmo wheels but they were only 6" wide >_<.

At the moment I'm more worried about my engine and being a student I don't have much disposable income


I really didn't expect the tail lights to com out that well, would probably try a gloss next time, I usually use satin because it's easier to paint with and more forgiving

Justen

iTrader: (12)

I dunno, man. $300-$500 just for stock wheels from another car? Doesn't seem too cheap to me. Considering FD/300zx/3000gt rims don't look that great in the first place
Not that the cherokee wheels are superior lol, but I'd be surprised if he paid more than $100 for the set. And if he doesnt like them, a honda owner would buy them in a heartbeat.

BUT, as for skyline wheels... Its a completely different game. I love me some r33 rims. Mmmmm.

BurritoBut

Had a quick look and found 2 r32 gtr rims for $550 which is stupid money. My mate has anset on his s13 so I may be lucky if he upgrades.

Are 12a cosmo 720cc injector suitable for secondaries?
Look at these,
http://www.trademe.co.nz:80/Browse/L...84&permanent=0

BurritoBut

A quick question, with the current mods, if I keep the boost at factory should it be ok? It's just it will take me a while to getting the injectors/ecu/fuel pump and I would like to get it on the road by the end of the year.

Ill probably look at getting the fuel pump soon, and then get the ecu/injectors when I have sorted out which system I want and have enough money to sort it out properly.

I have been told that the rTek systems may not be suitable in NZ due to different fuel qualities/octanes so if someone has advice on this it would be awesome.

Quite keen on the megasquirt but I'm well aware of the study/time/effort involved in making it work but on the flipside it would be cool to know how everything is tuned.




Also having issues with getting it started.

After sorting out a lot of wiring, the starter began to throw sparks everywhere at the solenoid (?). I bench tested it and something is wrong with it. Its working but goes nuts like hitting 2 jumpstarter cables together! Luckily I had a spare, threw it in and it was turning over....but.... now the fuel pump isn't getting power >_< so I will need to sort that out when I have time next then it should* start.





* I have said this about 100 times now

vrracing

iTrader: (1)

IIRC you said you had an "extended port" on it. We ported our S5 Tii with Pineapple street port templates and Rob @ Pineapple warned us that without some compensation it would run lean; especially under load. We put 720/1000s with a Walbro in to compensate and it still ran lean, bucking between 3-4k. It would also frequently die at stop signs.

We initially used a SAFC Neo and Zeitronix w/b to fatten it up and that fixed it. If you dont have a w/b that's the first thing I'd get. Otherwise if you're lean your first clue may be a blown engine. Tuning blind gets really expensive!

BurritoBut

I'm on standard port, my turbo came off a car that was running extend port.