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This isn't really a build thread as such, car has been built, just looking through pics lately and decided to post some. Car started life as a 1991 A Package Coupe in 5N Brave Blue MIca, and i got it as a nearly bare shell, with an REW engine, subframe from Paul Ko's old old old yellow car, and a couple random boxes of stuff. Along the way i've gotten some really neat stuff (for usually next to no $$), and have sort of built the FC i wanted in like 1999. its kind of nice, its not a daily driver, and its not a race car, it really has no point, its just stupid fun
mod list is pretty short, but its steep? its running an REW with a hybrid FC turbo, chipped FD ecu, HKS intake, Intercooler and Exhaust. its currently on Tein HA's with Volk wheels. everything else is pretty much just S5, or S5 T2
fun stuff, i drew up a gauge holder and had it 3d printed. 3d printing has a pretty big tolerance, it actually took a couple hours of sanding to get the gauges in there.... and its not flat or square
one of the parts to get an REW into the FC chassis that needs fab-work is the water pump housing. the FC water pump hits the FD primary fuel rail, and the FD housing has the lower hose in the wrong place. solution was to modify the REW water pump. since i have a single turbo this worked, but the twin turbos stick out further forward, which is why Mazda moved the hose in the first place.
i had a Greddy turbo timer in my FD back in the 90's and i had one for some reason and decided to put it in, mostly for nostalgia, it plays the Greddy theme song , actually i use to to run the fan after i turn the car off
i used a JDM FD ecu for this guy, and it actually works better for the swap because the US ecu added AWS, EGR and a couple other things, and they ran out of pins. so they had to add a thing called the E/L box and it takes a bunch of inputs and uses 1 pin on the ecu. the JDM ecu on the other hand is actually set up more like an S5 FC, which is nice, and they are cheap.
originally i took an FD harness and an FC harness and tried to take the wires i needed from both and lay them on top of each other, but the FD harness is like 18" shorter (weight savings is real!) so half of it was like a guitar string, and the other half was all bundled up in the corner. after looking at a bunch of JDM cars, like the yellow FEED car, i realized that the HKS F-Con V that they use lets them add and subtract whatever sensor they want. so i had thought the JDM guys did REW swaps, but they actually keep the 13B-T, and just run the FD CAS, water pump, upper intake TB etc.
so for the second try i used a JDM FC harness (i had it, it was really really nice), and used an adaptor to change the wiring over to the FD, essentially i built the Banzai Racing kit for the power FC. the only real difference is that i put all the solenoids on an expansion harness, so the check engine light is off. and then for the odd sensors, i just built little plug in adaptors. so basically, engine is stock, car is stock, ecu is stock, wiring is stock, and it just has an extra harness to do all the stuff
and actually the JDM ecu doesn't have a check engine light, so i built a little code reader box. i had visions of making it do more stuff, like jump the fuel pump, etc, but well i haven't... anyways pics!
Very cool. I've been very interested in this car I've heard about in posts and seen the occasional picture of over the years. Something about an REW swapped FC I just can't seem to find the words for at the moment.
Very cool. I've been very interested in this car I've heard about in posts and seen the occasional picture of over the years. Something about an REW swapped FC I just can't seem to find the words for at the moment.
i'm sure i've mentioned most of this stuff, but never really posted pics or anything
aside from that stuff the car is super basic. next project is to redo the cold side intercooler pipe... (actually it is probably to charge the battery!)
How did u tackle the other hurdle on mounting the 13B-REW in the FC chassis? buy/make mounts to use the rear REW engine mounting points.... or drill the center iron for passenger FC motor mount /mod the driver FC mount and mod the front of the FC oil pan to fit the REW front cover?
How did u tackle the other hurdle on mounting the 13B-REW in the FC chassis? buy/make mounts to use the rear REW engine mounting points.... or drill the center iron for passenger FC motor mount /mod the driver FC mount and mod the front of the FC oil pan to fit the REW front cover?
ooo found one, this is from 2003? i bought it in December 99 (or something) spent most of 2000 building it, and screwing around, then it got broken into, and stuff got stolen, so January of 2002? i started the 20B conversion, and it went to sevenstock 5 and 6 with the 3 rotor, and then this pic is Sevenstock 7 and i had switched back to a 13BT because the Haltech E11 had died, and i was tired of not being able to drive it...
I find modding the subframe and using stock FD mounts as best option...Its not that hard in the end and makes easier access to the turbo in case of removal/service.
I find modding the subframe and using stock FD mounts as best option...Its not that hard in the end and makes easier access to the turbo in case of removal/service.
the motive fab ones are even easier, and no modifications required to the car or the engine
US vs JDM sun visor clips, its amazing they designed two different parts like that. people say they don't have enough money to design a new rotary but 30 years ago they had 2 new rotary engines, in different variations for different markets plus had the extra time to do different sun visor clips...
This car started as a semi stripped shell, and was supposed to be a track car, but i got so many good deals on so many neat parts that it has turned to more like the FC i would have built in 1999..
I know i'm supposed to put this in the first post, but here is the mod list:
1991 Rx7 Coupe A Package in Brave Blue Metallic.
Interior is Black, now, it was blue originally. i went for the JDM street racer look, they would have had the back seat and pulled it out, so since i didn't have the bins anyways, its full interior minus bis and rear carpet. S5 T2 seats, a Mazdaspeed steering wheel and horn cap.
Engine is a stock 13B-REW, its running all of the REW accessories. It is mounted with Paul Ko's old Front sub frame, it has a brace added in the rear, and the REW mounts bolt right up. in concept it is a bit like the FD sub frame.
Turbo right now is an S4 FC turbo with a V trim compressor wheel in a bored out stock housing
Exhaust its a no name JDM down pipe to a stock cat to an HKS sport exhaust. apparently the HKS exhaust has been on the car since nearly new.
Intake is an HKS RS intake
Intercooler is an HKS Type S. its the equivalent of the current Greddy kit, but it is a little narrower so it fits under the hood latch, and then there is no cutting needed to run the pipes. nice light core, and it is about as big as you can fit in the car.
ECU is an FD ecu, with an Re-Amemyia chip. ecu kicks ***, and car ran with no tuning or anything, which is great. wiring harness is an FC with a plug in adapter for the ECU
Clutch is an ACT Extreme with ACT flywheel, i had it, its too heavy, sucks donkey *****.
Trans and diff are stock T2, with comp mounts.
Suspension is a set of Tein HA's they were cheap, and you can send them to LA for rebuilds. they are also probably too stiff for the roads we have around here.
Wheels are a set of Volk GR C's, this was the hardest part of the whole build. everything about these is special, and it took 18 months to get all the spacers and lug nuts and stuff. they do hold air better than any other wheel i've ever had
04-11-20, 05:12 PM
, actually i use to to run the fan after i turn the car off
