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So I had the opportunity to buy this FC a few mount ago.
All the body work was done, no rust, everything was done how it should be done.
Pics from the previous owner :
Engine bay Fresh underside 4 wheel lug conversion Turbo II gold edition S5 rear light Rolling sheel Fenders hoooood
The car is 90% complete, I need :
- Rear axle
- Front Windshield
- Sunroof sheet metal
- Modling trim fender
- Carpet
- Seats
- Probably a lot of other things
I want a street/track car, so, looking good and working great.
I spot some Rx8 seats in the background. Are those the plan for this car?
Yep. I bought them cheap and I really like how they feel, better than the leather one.
But I have a Bride Zeta IV in my Miata and I will probably mount it in driver side in the rx7.
Bride driver seat
Rx8 passenger side unless.
Engine is now open !
It comes with the car and nether I or previous owner know his mileage. I take the decision to open it because it was out of the car and since I didn't know his condition, it was better to open it.
54mm flywheel nut was a pain, my little 400nM electric impact gun wasn't enough. So i call a friend and with a breaker bar et him holding the engine with a crowbar 54mm unbolt !
And now :
hello there
A lot of garbarge in all water port, corrosion and residue of water.. and.. I also found a nut :
Le bilan :
I didn't take time to do metrology but :
Plates had some groove you can feel where the rotor oil seal pass
1 housing is toasted, chrome flaking on the side
Some water seal show some damaged
Chrome flaking but not as bad as the other housing
Now take a look at this :
aie aie aie je n'aime pas ça
Toasted... What can caused this ? The little corner piece of the apex seal ? But why ? Mileage, corner seal misalignment, design of the apex ?
Really inspect those irons water passage groves on the lower half. Check for pitting, atkins sells reinforcement parts if they are too thin or pitted. Heat cycles are killers and it would be terrible to put it together to only lose a seal from a fracture.
Any suggestion ? I thinks it's the thing to do for reliability and performance
Merci
for 300hp? you can skip a bunch of stuff.
do new housings, in fact the more new engine parts the better
block the stuff you're not using
the oil pan baffle is good, the Super Now! one is better, its 10mm thick (you need shorter engine mounts to go with it). a bigger bottom plate is how the factory stiffened up these engines
you do want the FD oil pressure regulator, but you don't need anything else.
thermal pellet is up to you, its more of an age thing, so you should block it off, or replace it with a new one.
the competition oil jets work at high rpm, but it will drop oil pressure at low rpm. not sure how you're going to use this thing, but if its a street car you might skip this
you will want the bigger fuel pump, injectors, and the alternator is nice too
for 300hp? you can skip a bunch of stuff.
do new housings, in fact the more new engine parts the better
block the stuff you're not using
the oil pan baffle is good, the Super Now! one is better, its 10mm thick (you need shorter engine mounts to go with it). a bigger bottom plate is how the factory stiffened up these engines
you do want the FD oil pressure regulator, but you don't need anything else.
thermal pellet is up to you, its more of an age thing, so you should block it off, or replace it with a new one.
the competition oil jets work at high rpm, but it will drop oil pressure at low rpm. not sure how you're going to use this thing, but if its a street car you might skip this
you will want the bigger fuel pump, injectors, and the alternator is nice too
Thanks for your feedback. Appreciate it
First step 300whp, since i'm rebuilding a complete car I don't want to push hp first. 400whp in futur would be nice
I skipped ECU part, at the moment I don't know what I will buy, need to speak to my tuner/myself
If I remember well, in Europe we only had 5 lug.
Previous owner convert it to 4 lug, why ? Because he put some nice SSR XR4 !
I really like the vibe of small 4 lug wheel, XR4 - Equip01/03
Thanks for your feedback. Appreciate it
First step 300whp, since i'm rebuilding a complete car I don't want to push hp first. 400whp in future would be nice
I skipped ECU part, at the moment I don't know what I will buy, need to speak to my tuner/myself
all Mazda did to go from the T2 ~200hp to 280hp, was to bump the oil pressure, they also improved the bearings and changed the clearances a bit. they also did some oil pan baffling.
they also improved the CAS. its important to note that the FFE kit is more accurate, but the timing still needs to be checked, the kit doesn't fix that problem verify TDC when the engine is apart
Mazda also kept increasing the ECU speeds, but any good aftermarket one will be even faster.
the experience i've had using FC Tweak on the Power FC has been really good, basically it makes sure that the basics are covered, things like the sensors being scaled correctly, and then that the actual AFR hits the target
all Mazda did to go from the T2 ~200hp to 280hp, was to bump the oil pressure, they also improved the bearings and changed the clearances a bit. they also did some oil pan baffling.
they also improved the CAS. its important to note that the FFE kit is more accurate, but the timing still needs to be checked, the kit doesn't fix that problem verify TDC when the engine is apart
Mazda also kept increasing the ECU speeds, but any good aftermarket one will be even faster.
the experience i've had using FC Tweak on the Power FC has been really good, basically it makes sure that the basics are covered, things like the sensors being scaled correctly, and then that the actual AFR hits the target
100% true. Timing always need to checked after a fresh rebuild or new engine
In Europe people seems to work with Link, Megasquirt, Maxxecu, Haltech
Originally Posted by diabolical1
welcome to the board.
nice car. really nice work.
i find that oftentimes when a build starts on a rotisserie, good things usually follow. i can't wait!
Thanks diabolical
Just got a quote for 2 FD housing + front, intermediate and rear plate. I will ask Santa
So I had the opportunity to buy this FC a few mount ago.
All the body work was done, no rust, everything was done how it should be done.
Pics from the previous owner :
Engine bay Fresh underside 4 wheel lug conversion Turbo II gold edition S5 rear light Rolling sheel Fenders hoooood
The car is 90% complete, I need :
- Rear axle
- Front Windshield
- Sunroof sheet metal
- Modling trim fender
- Carpet
- Seats
- Probably a lot of other things
I want a street/track car, so, looking good and working great.
Himni motor mount - don't know if they fit with the Supernow engine baffle ?
Feedback is welcome
Merci
the Supernow baffle is 10mm thick and they offer 10mm shorter mounts for it, although they are solid.
i've never had a set of poly mounts in my hand, but it must be possible to make a shorter one
i would run the link ECU if it was my choice, they are excellent, and price is good
Not a good news today.
I'm starting to clean all the part.
I'm going to start looking into another solution. Either by importing a turbo kit from Japan or Turblown... Or maybe find a non-cracked S5 manifold but they are overpricey here
Door handle and mechanism on the left door is done.
What a pain it was I used two door handle to make one.
And now the door
After that I tried to mount all the seals on this door. Everything was going fine until I tried to install the seal on the inner part of the door (the big one that goes all the way around the inner part of the door). After 1h of me trying to know why the hole to mount it doesn’t fit where they used to be, I looked at the Mazda reference. omg. I tried to mount RH seals on LH door. So previous owner put LH seal on RH door, and yes he made holes on the seals to mount it… aaaaah.
thanks PO for theses holes.
Next step is to finish to clean theses bad boys and finish the left door
