Any updates?

 

Not Really any updates. Got a newer set of doors. Honestly the car is kind of on the back burner right now, as I try to figure out what the solid plan is. I keep bouncing between having a clean street car, or making it my track toy. Regardless off the direction I want the car to have almost full interior. If I go street car its gonna have mainly stock aero, if i go track setup I want the car to have a decent Aero Package, I'm looking between the Re-Amemiya or the 9 Lives Racing wing. I'm kind of leaning to the track side because my daily (GR86) is fine as a street car

Other wise as of tight now I'm still sanding down the body and engine bay. Slowly working on pulling parts off the engine until its just the keg. But yeah that's about it for now

 

So yeah, 4 months late, and not too much else has changed on the car. I'm waiting to see about picking up a T2 transmission at some point. Anyway, on to the updates. First up is that I had put the nicer set of doors onto the car, but only recently gutted the driver side of the one I took off, and added all that to the door I put on

Door Internals routed

white spraypainted handle in place, will either repaint this one or see if I can find a set of blaze red ones

I also spent today tearing down the engine accessories. I have now removed the smog pump (won't be going back on), lower intake manifold, turbo, and turbo manifold. All that's left on the keg are the front accessories. The water jackets are nasty as all hell, but I'm going to be doing a full rebuild on the engine anyway, so I should be able to clean those up (hopefully). I also removed the Twin Plate OS Giken clutch that came with the motor, it looked to be in good condition, so I might reuse that and buy the replacement parts from OS. I think it's the TS2B Clutch, not 100% sure though. As far as I can tell, it's a $1200 to $1500 clutch and flywheel kit, so I'm kinda stoked about that.

All the stuff I removed in the back of the car

The HT18s Turbo

Lower Intake Manifold

The side of the engine, water jackets are nasty, Rotorss also were quite carbony, so will need to clean those

Top of the motor now that everything is missing

The OS Giken clutch + Flywheel (Side View)

The OS Giken Clutch + flywheel (Top View)

 

The TS2B is a great clutch! You can measure the clutch disks to get an idea of how much life is left. I think the disks have around 4.0mm thickness when new.
I made 540whp on one that was worn down to around 3.2-3.3mm. It looked like it came off the bottom of the ocean, but worked fine. It also came off of a random JDM import engine.
Just keep track of the orientation and order of the parts when taking it apart so it goes back with all the same mating components.
They drive great on the street. Light flywheel, but easy to drive. And they make that classic JDM twin disk jingle jangle sound lol.

 

just to add to that, OS Giken sells parts, so if you need discs/throw out bearings/ etc its easy to get.
they do drive really nicely too. its too bad you don't see it in the car its really one of the cooler JDM bits

 

Alright, so a short, small update. I managed to reset the clutch into its proper order. However, while removing parts from the hatch area, I accidentally broke the flapper on the exhaust manifold, which isn't ideal. Honestly, I haven't really worked on the car in the last three months and don't have any parts or space available since my dad's Mustang is about to enter a major project phase.

I did, however, get my Haltech ECU in, but the harness is back-ordered and, from what I can tell, partly discontinued. Basicly the main harness is in stock, the CAS subharness is backordered, and the IGN-1A harness just doesn't exist anymore. Now then, I do have a question that I asked Haltech support, but would like to get y'all's thoughts. There is a kit from Full Function Engineering that replaces the distributor-style CAS with a Hall Effect Sensor and Coged wheel (Similar to the FD). 1) Would I even need the S4/S5 CAS sub harness? 2) since im trying to make this car build "reliable" while keeping things simple, would it make sense to swap to that, with a new CAS being hard to come across if it goes bad?

In other news im still searching for a Turbo II transmission. I'm talking to 2 people locally that have one for sale, one is for a grand, the other hasn't said a price.

So hopfully ill have that soon, otherwise yeah, kind of a messy update as not really much has changed with the car.

The Haltech Elite 1500 ECU

 

I'll be following your thread. I'm in a similar boat: reviving a car that I mostly disassembled >10 years ago and trying to remeber/figure out how it all goes back together.

FWIW, I'm going to be running a Nexus R3 and I just bought the FFE hall effect trigger wheel kit for the reason you outlined. I'm trying to make the car as reliable as possible, and having higher resolution timing without the gear "slop" of the CAS seemed like a good idea.

I would say that the only downside for the FFE kit on the FC is that you cannot run it with AC/power steering. I'm going to to run a Volvo electro-hydraulic PS pump. I live in the PNW and this isn't a DD, so AC isn't a priority for me though I might look into an electric AC compressor at a later time.

 

Luckily, my car won't have Ac (despite being in Texas), and it's a manual steering rack car. I think for simplicity's and reliability sake I'm going to go ahead and do it, it's a lot easier to find a replacement hall effect sensor than it is to find a CAS or to deal with rebuilding it