THATgoS4Bridgy

new build thread time!! my old email got hacked so i couldnt request my name and password, long story short im back with a new name. so heres my girlfriend...lol




these are the day i picked it up, i feel like i stole it for $3,300 especially since im from north east ohio and everythings rotted. its and s4 bridgeport (more on the motor shortly) had a t2 hood, side skirts, s5 tail lights and wing, had a system i sold, fluidyne raditor+shroud, ngk plugs and wires, and some emissions blocked off with gd jb weld!!! i just dont understand some people...anyway i was not a particular fan of the stripes and especially not the bulldogs so removing the stripes and bulldogs were the first order of buisness.so i had a buddy hit it with a wool pad after removing the stickers and that turned my FC into an automotive archeology project to see into the mind of the previous owner/s.it buffed out nicely but the stripes were cut out on the car so now it has some ghost stripes now i guess.

other than the scratches it looks pretty good

THATgoS4Bridgy

thats how she stayed fora few months


i ended up blowing and oil cooler line racing a buddies vr6 swapped mkIII jetta on this night, continued down the freeway at 60mph for about 4 miles to get to the spot everyone was meeting up on no oil pressure and realized the drivers side oil cooler mount was broken so when i hit a bump it could wiggle up and down a bit. that little movement overtime managed to cut through a braided hose with nothing but a mounting tab for the fluidyne radiator in the car...got new lines and bam back in the game. id like to see a piston motor drive for 4 miles on the freeway with no oil/pressure....and i wouldnt recommend it btw, i figured if it seized id buy an fd motor and trans but it wasnt needed.
i realized a lil while after this that the rear coils were heated and squished and about to snap apart so i got a set of stock coils off a buddy and swapped them onto the rear agx adjustable shocks and called it a day

at my buddies house with his R1 FD....we break necks going down the road


painted the centers of the BBS' flat white and it looked damn good...until i hit a giant crack in the freeway and the rears came flying off i was gonna buy 2 more but i got a deal on a set of tsw rims so i ended up selling them to a buddy for his 7.
pointing back twards my garage..its the simple things in life...
anyway i went to the track and on my 1st pass i destroyed the front rear diff mount, completely torn in half and ran a 15.12 untuned and the pinion would smack the underbody if i didnt shift smoothly. now ive read that solid mounting the front diff mount could transfer to much pressure to the diff ears and snap em i made 4 more passes at the track dumping the clutch at 7k, yet again if it breaks id get to swap rear ends to a t2, straight axle, whatever my heart desires at the moment but yet again no such luck. the car took it all in stride and i even drove it home and to work for the next few days with the broken front mount until i bought a winter beater and got the car ready for some tlc. the last thing i did was 3 of these smokey burnouts in my driveway and pulled it into the garage for the winter...all with a broken front diff mount

THATgoS4Bridgy

now onto my favorite part...the motor

i started to take apart the car and was suprised multiple times, the car has an "adjusted" MAF and the O2 sensor in the pace setter header looks new but the O2 sensor clip has been chopped out of the harness and the car has RC550cc primaries and Injector Dynamics 1000cc secondaries all while still on a stock N/A ecu i believe...just now i find myself wondering why i havent investigated that...the throttle body has the secondairy throttle plates removed.

now onto the lower intake and 5th and 6th ports...its a poor mans 4 port motor


whoever built the motor used rtv and way to much hold the gasket on the lower intake and rtv was clogged in the little holes in the bottom of the manifold...now the porting is by no means smooth so i wonder if maybe the puerto rican guy who built it did it to help with fuel atomization but who knows...i may smooth it out whenever i rebuild but i will make the "5th and 6th ports" into an oval instead of the 8 shape it is now.as far as if its a full bridgeport or a half i do not know, thats a surprise for next winter. decided just to dress up the bay a bit and get coilovers and drilled and slotted rotors,dustless pads, and new calipers all around which i decided to paint goooold



and these are the coilover i went with

made by emusa but have good reviews and a buddy drifts with a set so i figured for $488 shipped it was wortha shot. has camber plates, adjustable spring rate and ride height and spring rate are seperate so i dig that, im more of a review ***** over brand *****. emusa is an american company based in louisiana or something and they have manufacturing facilities in china....just like every other company in any market. worse case scenario i buy better ones eventually, my 7 isnt a daily

THATgoS4Bridgy

decided to go gilmer...a wise decision

i get antsy when i have free time...but i like how it turned out, itll look good with a rear diffuser and a gigantor wing.

interior was ok but im building a racecar i have the fixed back sparco for me and a reclineable sparco for the passenger but its not in yet...the shifter is half of a honda cam i drilled out and tappen at work on the bridgeport (work at a machine shop) and it has a gold NRG quick release hub and an NRG white leather wrapped deep dish steering wheel, the zebra console and crown royal shift boot....classy

now this is why i didnt mount the passenger seat yet...its plumbed but not wired up, 20 mins and a full bottle and i could be spraying but i want to keep this motor together for another summer at least.

THATgoS4Bridgy

i sent my glove box lid to mad mike out in new zealand to sign...i cant believe i actually pulled it off! i also sent him one of the rotor stickers i had made up to put on one of the cars and he sent me back a bunch of stickers as well....theres like 50HP right here!!

took my car from zero to hero lol

finally got my wheels back from the powder coater...white with a flat clear...really makes the paint on the car "pop". 18x8 up front and 18x10 in the rear, dont remember the offsets unfortunatly.

so in just under a year the cars made a huge transformation


just got a few things left and i can go terrorize the streets with the songs of my people

THATgoS4Bridgy

scratches down the side from the stripe

THATgoS4Bridgy

got some morework done on the car, seats mounted, harness is in, glove box is back in its home and looking gangster


looks like its biting its lip lol

bought a set of used tires from a place by my house and go figure, 3 outta 4 are **** so i ended up getting a staggered set of bfg kdw's 235/40/18 up front and 265/35/18 in the rear...wheels are 18x8 and 18x9.5 i found out when i got tires as well, was told they were 18x9 and 18x10 when i bought them

pushed he out the garage for the 1st wash since october of last yr, loving theflat white wheels

no spacers

got some serious meats out back...

all thats left is to finish the exhaust and add the dot4 brake fluid a buddy hooked me up with and bleed the brakes and ill be driving once again!!

THATgoS4Bridgy

forgot i have to modify the gilmer belt kit to fit perfectly...and add my premix. now its time for the long term plan...as long as my motor makes another summer i plan on tearing itsoen this winter and building a boosted n/a. im not sure if ill swap to t2 rotors but ill flip a coin when the time comes. the plan is to send the e-shaft and rotors to be balanced, need to smooth out the port job the PO did to the car and machine the housing and plates to accept 1/2" mazdatrix studs to hold her together. im thinking rotary aviation super seals-1piece w/springs, and cryo treated whateveri can get my grubby lil hands on. i have a t2 lower intake and a fd upper intake and throttle body that'll get tossed into the mix. now ill get some hate for this but i plan on running a CX Racing gt45 twin scroll turbo,its an american company that manufactures in china just like everything else we consume in this country lol. im a review *****, i dont care if HKS makes it, if ppl who buy the product dont like it im not buying and vice versa. anyway its a .73mm cold side and a .77mm hot side with a 1.05 AR. i have a buddy who makes custom headers and turbo manifolds all day at work so hes gonna make me a bomb manifold for next to nothing!!off the manifold will be twin 50mm v-band cx racing wastegates, god speed bov, v-mount my intercooler and radiator, maybe swap the stock oil cooler out for twin side mounts. the flywheel and counter weight are machined pieces and the flywheel has been tested up to 12k rpms....and ill finish up with a spec clutch most likely. ill decide on injector sizing once i figure out which fuel im gonna run, id prefer E85 but right now theres not much available and ill decide when the time comeson what EMS im gonna go with but id like a haltec with the race pack but idk if ill spend the loot or get a mega squirt or something. lemme know if you have any suggestions, this'll be my first turbocharged car andim hoping to at least scare some of my friends on the freeway...515awhp evo, 637awhp sti, 700+awhp r35 for example. my 6 port is "converted" to a 4 port and theplan is rev to 10,750 using n/a rotors to get more hp per lb of boost, E85 and RA one piece apex seals to try and keep the seals in place and ward off detonation. im just gonna push the limits on what can be done to an n/a, 500HP or bust!!!

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

2 things...

1. I wouldnt recommend revving that high on a boosted motor. most likely you wont make power than high.

2. Stay away from the ebay wastegates.

THATgoS4Bridgy

Why wouldn't I make power at that high of an rpm? Unless I run outta breath with the turbo and or run into restrictions due to limitations of my intake manifold set up. And for the wastegates like I said before if it has good reviews and the product works I'm buying....and not from eBay either. Just bc something is sold on eBay and or made in China doesnt make it automaticly junk

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

Most turbos arent going to flow that high. the only setups that flow like that are drag car setups that dont come online till 5k. I dont know the specifics but I know its not recommended to rev as high on boosted setups. I havent even taken mine over 7k yet while tuning...I'm a scaredy cat

edit: to rev that high you need really high oil pressure, as well as lightened rotors and beveled rotor tips so they do not wobble and hit the irons.

THATgoS4Bridgy

If the rotors and e-shaft are balanced why would anything wobble? And I'm OK with coming on at 5k...that leaves another 5k of rpm...and you can shim the oil pump/sending unit for more pressure i believe. Good luck tuning!! Big bucks no detonation!!

THATgoS4Bridgy

The car will be used mainly on the freeway and maybe some standing mile eventually. I want a crazy street rotary like they build down under!!

nepopolus

If you plan all these crazy things to do at the same time to the car, chances are it will become a project that is never finished. That ebay turbo will kill your engine, especially if it is not balanced. Generally ebay turbochargers are all made out of the same template, The turbocharger used to make this template is a high dollar unit, The problem comes into play when they are all stamped out and assembled clearances will not remain the same and the unit you will purchase will not be balanced.
The stock rotating assembly out of a NA is also not balanced for that rpm range from the factory.

THATgoS4Bridgy

Its not like I can't take my rotating assembly to defined auto and have them balance the assembly....wait, yes I can. And not all turbos are made the same. There's countless build threads from ppl with "knockoff" turbos that work perfectly fine so don't worry bout it. Its not my daily and its not that hard to give the shaft a Lil wiggle to check the wheels from time to time. CX Racing is an american company that is sold many car part sites not just eBay.

THATgoS4Bridgy

On*

THATgoS4Bridgy

Tried starting her up today and after 6 FC's I finally flooded one damn it. Wanted to post up a video of it brappin away but not gonna happen tonight unfortunately. But here's a video from last yr when I 1st got the car and took my brother for a ride to test his go-pro...nothing special but stillhttps ://m.youtube.com/watch?v=DeXPRVr4CJU

joeylyrech

iTrader: (11)

Just a question.How is the bottom end on that motor?Im just asking cause those ports are bigger than my turbo bridged cosmo setup and by looking at your video the car seems to run and cruise at lower rpms just fine.............no bogging or need to downshift in order to move.
Also are you running a stock ecu on those injectors?If you are i am a little confused.Idle seems fine,crussin and starting 2.In every bridge that i have owned it took hours of tuning 2 get it right so it looks like you got lucky.Enjoy the car oh and please dont buy that crappy turbo.Save a little more and get yourself a S series from BORGWARNER.They are cheap and proven.

THATgoS4Bridgy

Yea idk how it runs...well ran. I'm unsticking apex seals this weekend . It has a t2 ecu I found out, rc550cc primaries and injector dynamics 1000cc secondary injectors. Only issue I had was it would break up at high rpm when cold, and there was no thermostat so it never really got up to operating temp

THATgoS4Bridgy

And the turbo is 425 bux, an American company, I can keep an eye on it if it starts going to ****, ppl run em with decent results and even if it only lasts a season then I can upgrade. In order to build a best of the best short block I will take an initial hit in "turbo". I'm just at the point in where I've gotten screwed by everyone...so maybe it'll work, maybe everyone will say I told ya so but its gonna get a fair chance at least.

joeylyrech

iTrader: (11)

Get the turbo and just spend a little extra on balancing it and it will last a good amount of time.I have friends running 8 second passes on the china ebay turbos and wastegates.I do like your car lot...............is clean.Good luck with the build.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

damn. the shifter "****" alone makes this build a success.

THATgoS4Bridgy

Well after painting the intake and deleting a remaining emissions and the clod start set up were removed, put it back together and ran a line that shoulda been capped to a place on the intake it didn't go so water poured into my intake and out the exhaust. So when I went to start it the motor was oxidized inside and gumed up the apex seals sticking them in. So I've been trying to get them unstuck but 1 per rotor are not happy with life. so I guess it's time to crack into her and see what I can salvage and start my motor build I guess. I'm just worried the chrome faces may be completely shot now but only time will tell I guess.

THATgoS4Bridgy

well i got the keg out this weekend and cracked it open...and....i just dont know anymore. all i know is the motor ran and ran quite well so i guess it works....lets just start from the beginning shall we, firstly i realized it was a stock flywheel and a no name unsprung 6 puck that grabbed so damn hard

and now the madness ensues...pulled the water pump off...and its a bit grody...

pulled the water pump housing and timing cover...looks normal at least

business as usual

popped it open and realized i have 1 piece apex seals in it and get my first look at the bridge

and now the plot thickens...theres not much to say it speaks for itself

well lets just continue and forget that just happened...


the pictures make it look worse than it is...i had stuck apex seals and used a whole bunch of **** to try and unstick em


exhaust ports

and finally back to some of the weirdest **** ive seen to date....

THATgoS4Bridgy

and with that...the 1st rotary ive torn down myself and ill put back together myself ends in so many questions....where do i go from here?? then i had an idea...since this car has been like and archaeology dig...unearthing how the crafty puerto ricans do things,and maybe this and an *** load of nitrous is the way they go so fast. n/a motors are cheap and really it just takes time and dremel bits to make the ports this massive i dont know...and im guessing my factory intakes were chocking the hell out of the motor cause this is the difference in a stock t2 lower intake manifold and the ports on my irons


quite a big difference so i guess ill clean up everything and see how it specs out, if i can reuse the housings, rotors,and irons the plan now is to buy a mazda trix 6 port flange and have my buddy make a manifold, something along these lines

the short block will still be studded with 1/2" studs, new seals all around and 1 piece apex seals again, and then as long as it makes it through break in and a tune itll be time to start adding nitrous...if it makes over 200HP n/a id be ecstatic. if it doesnt handle a 100 shot of nitrous as well id be surprised, i hope it eats up a 250 shot and id go out and rape anything on the roads around me and if/when it pops ill sack up and buy a turbo motor