86 BaseT
08-19-14, 11:32 PM
#26
Got the bouncing idle to stop. Primary throttle was not closed all the way. Throttle cable seemed like it had plenty of slack. Not true, adjusted it a bit, sprayed the springs and links on the TB with lube, and now have a steady idle. Still to high but steady. Idles around 1050. However, I went for a short drive after work and stopped to tweak on the Palm and the Idle dropped to 850 and stay till I continued on? By the next stop is was back to 1050. Still have another vacuum leak to find. the BAC idle screw is all the way in. I'm still thinking that the secondary throttle is not closed all the way. Not finding any leaks from the outside. TB may come off this weekend.
On another topic, been messing with the Palm/tuning enough to relies I have no idea how this all works.
On another topic, been messing with the Palm/tuning enough to relies I have no idea how this all works.
Last edited by HRnico; 08-19-14 at 11:40 PM. Reason: slow learner
08-23-14, 09:14 AM
#27
Now I can begin moving forward (instead of sideways.) Got the high idle fixed, was the Dashpot. It was adjusted too close, wasn't allowing throttle to close. The plunger was Collapse as well. Need to find a replacement. This part serves a function and with out it drive ability suffers for sure, almost dies at stop signs. All the earlier tuning I did , out the window. Reset TPS and worked on idle seems good to go. Going to work on 0 to 4000 rpm vacuum cells today.
08-25-14, 03:59 PM
#28
Did a little street tuning Sunday morning. Got the 0 to 4k vacuum fuel map in the 13 to 14 afr range. good enough to venture a bit farther from home know. Values on the wideband still bounce around alot, seems you can see it go from cell to cell. Been driving gently with small throttle change and trying to hold RPMs to get a O2 reading.
I do have a slight hesitation when I lightly open the throttle. Not sure what this is.
I think it goes into closed loop quite easly. Can closed loop AFRs be modified?
How do you get the logs out of the Palm and onto the desk top? I open Palm desktop on my PC and that appears to be a dead end.
I do have a slight hesitation when I lightly open the throttle. Not sure what this is.
I think it goes into closed loop quite easly. Can closed loop AFRs be modified?
How do you get the logs out of the Palm and onto the desk top? I open Palm desktop on my PC and that appears to be a dead end.
Last edited by HRnico; 08-25-14 at 04:11 PM. Reason: more is better
09-02-14, 05:00 PM
#29
120 miles
Been putting time into the vacuum maps. getting much better. still rich in spots and lean in others. Disconnected the NB O2 to keep car out of closed loop. making it much easier to tune. I have all the cells from 0psi up at full rich. Wow, that works well as a boost/RPM limiter. Very strong in vacuum. The car is running a bit warm thou, changed the thermostat. It idles 10 degrees cooler 180-185F now. At speed, on county roads it runs between 198F and 208F. Not looking good for boost time. I reused the NA radiator that was keeping the car cool before, but now with the FMIC and gaps in the ducting its going to need some work. The AFM temp and IAT seem high as well, 115F to as high as 140F. need to wrap the DP, but will that help much? I have a cone filter tucked up behind the head light.
Last edited by HRnico; 09-02-14 at 05:19 PM. Reason: never enough
09-29-14, 04:52 PM
#30
Still Running Hot
Up to 200 miles now on rebuild. Took the car for a short drive to town and back. I climb about 800ft in 4 miles. Outside air of 70F, Rtek was reading 189F. Warmer then I would expect. So far, I have removed the FMIC and install an ABS test pipe. Installed new OEM style Copper/Brass radiator, new thermostat from Atkins, swap in a spare fan clutch that seemed tighter. Made sure no air is in the system. Visual check under the thermo, bypass looks to be covered judging by markings. About the only thing left is the water pump and lower radiator hose as culprits.
Accidently reset the ECU when I was messing Starting Fuel Map.
Luckily, I had saved the the Timing maps. However not the fuel maps, oops. Oh well I had only been working on the Vacuum section of the Maps up to 5K rpm. Won’t take much to fix. The car always starts by simply turning the kety when cold, but when warm I have to open the throttle. I’ve tried adding fuel and removing fuel, does not help either way. Not sure what to do about this.
Accidently reset the ECU when I was messing Starting Fuel Map.
Luckily, I had saved the the Timing maps. However not the fuel maps, oops. Oh well I had only been working on the Vacuum section of the Maps up to 5K rpm. Won’t take much to fix. The car always starts by simply turning the kety when cold, but when warm I have to open the throttle. I’ve tried adding fuel and removing fuel, does not help either way. Not sure what to do about this.
11-10-14, 02:26 PM
#31
350 miles and Boosting (a little)
with early winter temps (in the mid 50s most days) no more cooling issues. I will have to revisit in June.
I did relocate my intercooler. kind of an inverted Vmount. Saw "1SWEET7" post a few years back. It now is below and infront of the FMOC. Seems to be working, saw temps drop on one short pull last week. It may not last long thou, being the lowest point of the car now. No off-roading this car PeeJay. and no one slse will be driving it now.
Been pulling fuel from the lower boost cells in my maps. getting into 5-6 psi range now for short bursts. Sweetness.
Found the Transmission rear seal leaking, dropped the driveline and changed the rear ujoint while its out. seemed a little loose. I was getting a slight vibration on decel, hope that fixes it.
I did relocate my intercooler. kind of an inverted Vmount. Saw "1SWEET7" post a few years back. It now is below and infront of the FMOC. Seems to be working, saw temps drop on one short pull last week. It may not last long thou, being the lowest point of the car now. No off-roading this car PeeJay. and no one slse will be driving it now.
Been pulling fuel from the lower boost cells in my maps. getting into 5-6 psi range now for short bursts. Sweetness.
Found the Transmission rear seal leaking, dropped the driveline and changed the rear ujoint while its out. seemed a little loose. I was getting a slight vibration on decel, hope that fixes it.
Last edited by HRnico; 11-10-14 at 02:28 PM. Reason: oops
11-15-14, 03:08 PM
#32
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I had lost motivation to work on other areas of the car, with the condition my Craigslist transmission. I took the trans to a local rebuilder, he said it was done. Didn’t get much done over the four weeks since my last update. I got the Rtek installed and not much more.
Thanks “Calicrewchief”, He hooked me up with a S5 Box in good condition.
It needed a crossmember I had three and all were trash. I decided to just order a new one with the stiffer mounts from Atkins. Keeping with my total Frankenstein build, I swapped the S4 tail housing from my now “parts Tranny” and into the car it went.
Mail just brought me 3 Quarts of Redline MT90, time to fill it up.
Need to fix some rust that was under the battery. As soon as that gets sealed up. The engine will be lower into place (hopefully this weekend, as next I’ll be out of town.)
Thanks “Calicrewchief”, He hooked me up with a S5 Box in good condition.
It needed a crossmember I had three and all were trash. I decided to just order a new one with the stiffer mounts from Atkins. Keeping with my total Frankenstein build, I swapped the S4 tail housing from my now “parts Tranny” and into the car it went. Mail just brought me 3 Quarts of Redline MT90, time to fill it up.
Need to fix some rust that was under the battery. As soon as that gets sealed up. The engine will be lower into place (hopefully this weekend, as next I’ll be out of town.)
By the way. Did you burp the your heater core as well?
11-20-14, 11:21 PM
#33
No worries CCC
I did not burp the Heater core, been using the heater thou. Would that be enough? I have been driving around lately with the sun roof open as the heater will cook you ( when the fan decides to work.) Been waiting for the snow to melt and road to dry. Hope to get it out of the garage tomorrow. Tune a little Cold Air Boosting. Ya Baby!
I did not burp the Heater core, been using the heater thou. Would that be enough? I have been driving around lately with the sun roof open as the heater will cook you ( when the fan decides to work.) Been waiting for the snow to melt and road to dry. Hope to get it out of the garage tomorrow. Tune a little Cold Air Boosting. Ya Baby!
Last edited by HRnico; 11-20-14 at 11:24 PM. Reason: :)
12-19-14, 09:35 PM
#39
whats going on?
Been making pulls and continuing to pull fuel. Been slowly getting better. I'm seeing spikes on the wide band now. I don't think they are real. The duty cycle on the injectors is solid. Secondary injectors fire when needed.
Anytime I boost, the WB tends to just go to 10.0 and the engine starts to misfire, bucking, won't accelerate any more. Still pig rich, can't seem to boost past 7 PSI.
With the fuel setup I have most of the vacuum cells are -22% correction on the 550/550 setting. The boost cells seem to be heading that way as well. I would think as I go up the boost cells, I shouldn't be at the same correction value as vacuum cells.
The spikes on the Rtek Logs make me hesitate to pull more fuel but the gauge says richer then 10:1.
my first attempt at posting logs
Anytime I boost, the WB tends to just go to 10.0 and the engine starts to misfire, bucking, won't accelerate any more. Still pig rich, can't seem to boost past 7 PSI.
With the fuel setup I have most of the vacuum cells are -22% correction on the 550/550 setting. The boost cells seem to be heading that way as well. I would think as I go up the boost cells, I shouldn't be at the same correction value as vacuum cells.
The spikes on the Rtek Logs make me hesitate to pull more fuel but the gauge says richer then 10:1.
my first attempt at posting logs
12-20-14, 08:57 PM
#41
in the second log, you can see the boost is not stable. One thought I had, is the waste gate is opening (flutter, pulsing open.) I have no boost controller. Was told it was a 13 psi spring in the actuator. It is the actuator that came with my BNR rebuild, Bryan said it was 13, but I've read that I'll need to add a helper spring. Pain in the *** to add now.
12-24-14, 09:32 AM
#42
I've hooked the Narrow Band O2 back up to the ECU and I'm going to log it. I what to see if it will tell me anything about the spikes I'm recording. The Wide Band gauge always displays 10.0 AFR when in boost. The spikes seem to be about .30 to .45 of a second in duration when looking at the logs. The sample rate is quite slow when looking at the logs. (1980s tech)
Going to pull waste gate line and cap. See if I can build anymore boost that way. If not then I'll have to add an helper spring, PITA that will be as I have all the stock heat shields installed.
Going to pull waste gate line and cap. See if I can build anymore boost that way. If not then I'll have to add an helper spring, PITA that will be as I have all the stock heat shields installed.
Last edited by HRnico; 12-24-14 at 09:34 AM. Reason: more is better
02-16-15, 10:25 PM
#43
over 1500 miles now on rebuild
Long time since last update. Been driving the car a lot, rain or shine. To much fun to wait for summer. Continuing to street tune, still pulling fuel. Moving very slowly on the tuning. Don't want to pop it.
A while back I tightened the waste-gate actuator about 2/3 of the adjustment rod and added a small spring. Boost jump into the 10 psi range. still so rich, the misfiring continued. I read that misfire will show on the Wide Band as a lean spike, as a rush of unburned oxygen passes by. No more worries.
Pulled more fuel from higher boost cells, now hitting 13 psi with a WOT. Still rich, but getting closer. Car has become a joy to drive. I think all the air finally worked its way out of the cooling system. Added an oz. of water a couple of times to the overflow bottle Haven't added any for quite so time now, temps stay at 171F when cruising and after a little boosting are between 176F to 184F on the Rtek.
A while back I tightened the waste-gate actuator about 2/3 of the adjustment rod and added a small spring. Boost jump into the 10 psi range. still so rich, the misfiring continued. I read that misfire will show on the Wide Band as a lean spike, as a rush of unburned oxygen passes by. No more worries.
Pulled more fuel from higher boost cells, now hitting 13 psi with a WOT. Still rich, but getting closer. Car has become a joy to drive. I think all the air finally worked its way out of the cooling system. Added an oz. of water a couple of times to the overflow bottle Haven't added any for quite so time now, temps stay at 171F when cruising and after a little boosting are between 176F to 184F on the Rtek.
04-02-15, 10:15 PM
#47
Still
Still pulling fuel. Its my DD most days. Its a short drive to where I catch my ride to work. At 5 in the morning the car barely has a chance to warm up.
Usually try at least one pull on the drive home (if I remember the Palm) not to many good spots thou. So the street tuning is going very slowly, but I am making progress. Working on the cells from 10 psi to 14psi and also -20 to 0 above5k.
Car is becoming a Monster. Better tires are needed for sure. 1st gear tachs out in about 1 second under boost. Have to roll into 2nd with care or its just wheel spin as well.going to try a video this weekend
Usually try at least one pull on the drive home (if I remember the Palm) not to many good spots thou. So the street tuning is going very slowly, but I am making progress. Working on the cells from 10 psi to 14psi and also -20 to 0 above5k.
Car is becoming a Monster. Better tires are needed for sure. 1st gear tachs out in about 1 second under boost. Have to roll into 2nd with care or its just wheel spin as well.going to try a video this weekend
05-20-16, 10:49 AM
#49
It was back up for sale a 6-8 months ago.. I emailed him and it sounded like he lost the tune or something and he said it wasn't running good.
My old car's back up for sale too.. http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/5569396310.html For $5K. I ended up selling for $3300.
My old car's back up for sale too.. http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/5569396310.html For $5K. I ended up selling for $3300.
Last edited by Nick_d_TII; 05-20-16 at 10:51 AM.
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