Just modifie a CAS :p , put 2 rotor triggers on each other.

Yeah I know :), It's just going to have to wait a little bit longer though :blush:


Those ground control camber kits look nice!, but I doubt if they would work with my coilovers. Anyway I've already made a set myself today :nod:


Measuring, machining, measuring fitting ect ect. I ended up making all the parts a bit thicker and sturdier than the original design, the weight difference is minimal and it's nice to know the suspension can take a beating

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-X...2/CIMG2722.JPG

I'm using tein ha coilovers (8k / 6k springs), nice thing about these is that the damping is adjustable

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-a...2/CIMG2737.JPG


Yay, it fits :), I offset the mounting points a little bit to improve caster, the camberplate can be rotated 180deg to reduce caster if needed

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L...2/CIMG2750.JPG

Incredible! How's your motor coming along?

Well, pretty much all of the fabwork on the engine is done, I just might add a few things though, like far trailing sparkplugs, and a servo actuator for the slide throttlebody so idle can be controlled by the ecu. Apart from that it's basically there. Most of the rebuild parts like seals and stuff are also here. I am finishing the chassis before I begin assembling the engine though, I want to get the chassis done before the winter gets here because my garage doesn't have proper heating or anything, and I'm afraid when the engine is assembled and in the car that finishing the rest of the chassis will be ignored because it's just so awesome to fire up that engine. The list of things to do on the chassis is getting shorter and shorter though! I want to see if I can get some more steering angle in the front, and maybe some bigger fd brake rotors, and that's pretty much it for the front running gear, after that I'm pulling the rear subframe, upgrading the rear suspension, rebuild / shim / assemble the rear diff, rebuild / upgrade the rear braking stuff and I think that's pretty much it for the chassis. I'm going to try to have a drivable car in the spring when the weather picks up.

get a Vi-pec v88. runs 4 rotors just fine and is a damn good ecu.

Looking good john! Put the engine in and take it to oosterhout next week :P

Sure thing! :), right after I fix global warming, figure out how to do nuclear fusion properly and build an internal combustion engine that runs on milk :lol:, Joking aside I was going to come take a look, but something's come up so I can't make it. Don't worry though, when the car is up and running I plan to do a lot of events with it :icon_tup:

wow.. just wow.. i wish i had this skill, i cant wait to see the car done!

John huijben = BOSS

sorry for offtopic, but could you tell more abou your dyno?

Sure :), It's a very old clayton chassis dyno. I bought it with some friends a few years ago and rebuild and modified it. We all are attempting car projects like I am so we thought it was a good idea to have our own dyno. It turned out getting the dyno operational was and still is a big project in itself. We took the thing apart, rebuilded it where necessary, painted it, put it back together and got a car on it.
When we were confident that the dyno was going to work we made a big hole in the ground and mounted the dyno in there. It's an inertia dyno that's equipped with a waterbrake and a big flywheel for added inertia. We can do normal dynopulls by disabling the brake but we can also use the brake to keep the car at a steady rpm, by adding or draining water in the brake we can change how much drag the dyno has so we can keep the rpm's steady at different loads. The waterbrake is attached to a loadcell so we can measure hp and torque while braking. This means we can keep the car at a steady rpm, change something in the ecu and instantly see if power output changes. The dyno orginally had a very old analog system for measuring power but we retrofitted it with a modern system that runs of a computer. Besides the dyno's sensors we can also attach multiple car sensors to it so we can log AFR's and stuff like manifold pressure or coolant temp. The dyno is currently working pretty good, it's fully functional and we've mapped a few cars on it, but it's not reading completely accurate hp's yet, it's pretty close but we haven't found a good way to perfectly calibrate it. Doesn't matter a lot for mapping because the results are repeatable, we're just not sure that their 100% right yet, we're still working on it though, but progress on the dyno is slow because we are all pretty busy with our cars.

I don't have a lot of pictures but here are a few:


Rebuilding and painted, this is one of the 2 rolls the car rides on, that red thing is the waterbrake, we have one waterpump with valves that we can open and close electronically so we can add or drain water while driving the car. There is a second waterpump that pumps water through another part of the brake to cool it. There is a big 1000litre tank that hold the cooling water. The large amount of water prevents it from heating up too much
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Z...2/CIMG0397.JPG

Cutting up my buddy's garage and making big holes in the floor
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-z...2/CIMG0196.JPG

Poured some concrete and layed some bricks
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-F...2/CIMG0390.JPG

That big thing was the original measuring system, which we ditched in favour of a modern system
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-g...2/CIMG0394.JPG


Tuning a mk2 rabbit
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2...2/CIMG0532.JPG

I know everyone's thinking it but I'm just going to say it. What can't you do!

I just found this thread. took 45 minutes to an hour looking at all the pictures. Just Insane build. Looks like you built the exhaust pipes and mufflers too? and Eshaft? and everything else. Just alot of friggin work,

Take that knowledge and build a two seat personal Jet.

John, thats pretty cool. As you said about the flywheel, is there are any "real" flywheel, or the inertia comes from rollers weight? As I have been searching and only found about inertia and water brake dynos separately.
And what program do you use to collect data? You bought one, or wrote by yourself?

Ainis

Thanks, but I can't take full credit for the dyno, we've build it with 5 people :)


Yes, the exhaust pipes, mufflers and e-shaft all had to be fabricated, building a 4-rotor means you need a lot of custom parts, which is why the car isn't done yet, even after over a year of working on it.


Yes, there is a real flywheel, in that last dyno picture you can see the red waterbrake at one side of the dyno, the other side has a flywheel, which weighs about 100kg's and looks like this:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-L...2/CIMG0400.JPG

The combined inertia of the flywheel, both rollers and rotating part of the waterbrake adds up to about 7kg/m², which we found has been more than enough inertia for any car we've had on there so far.

Inertia and brake dyno's can be combined, as long as your software can handle it. We used dynertia from dtec ( DTec - Inertia & Brake Dyno (Dynamometer) Kart, RC, Bike & Car. DIY, Tech Articles, Temperature sensing and Acquisition )

I just read 44 pages.

And did a sex wee.

I assume the water brake works as a visco clutch?
If so, oil may be more suitable for high rpm's as oil doesn't cavitate that quickly (water does).
Although you may loose some cooling capacity, it may be more progressive and steady.
Just a thought.

Grtz Dennis.

So john. Three questions.

#1 With this full rebuild Will they let you change the mileage back to Zero?

#2 Since my 2 rotor gets like 20mpg What will the 4 rotor get? 10? or less?

#3 How much HP at the wheels do you plan on getting from this build?

Viper gearbox with conversionkit by Rotor Fanatics:
www.rx-7club.nl • Toon onderwerp - My 10 second car project (page bottom).

Grtz Dee.

My mileage was also set to zero at the rebuild.

In Holland it is not obligated to have a mileage counter in any car.
As long as you have a working speedometer its just fine.

Dee, that gearbox swap is overkill and way too expensive (5000+euro)
Hp doesn't kill, torque does!
A TII tranny behind a 4-rotor PP N/A should work just fine as long as you don't launch it like a maniac.

that will be interesting to see. its additional displacement vs the better BSFC of the P port. i noticed with the 3 rotor cruising mileage wasn't much different than a 13B, but stepping on the gas would get you into single digit MPG really quick.

with the P port car, power went up and gas mileage also went up. i don't have a good gauge, literally, and its a track car, but i can do two track days on one tank of gas, while my FC buddy needs about 3 tanks of gas to do the same two track days.

if you want the other example in the ITS car we used to get about 6 mpg on track, and Mazda reported about 12mpg for the 787B.

so we'll see!

There was a Top Gear episode where they did a mileage comparison between a Prius and a M3, they drove the Prius as hard as possible on the track and the M3 followed. I think the M3 was double the MPG of the Prius, it was barely making an effort to keep up so it does kind of make sense for a higher powered car to use less gas to do the same thing as a low powered car.

Right on. thanks. Yea but this is America. You cant take a shit without big brother tagging it for future Reference so they can send you a bill

And we sue them for tagging it. :egrin:

Grtz Dee.

I love how everyone starts off saying nah not gonna do too much to the car then this build thread happens! quoted from your first post