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You'll only want to jump the connector when you're diagnosing the fuel system. Otherwise, just pull the jump wire from it and keep it around.
In my opinion, the only benefit in having a 6-port turbo is cost and availability of parts. Doing a 6-port turbo conversion isn't necessarily the "right way" of doing things, but it's a cheaper way. Finding a TII engine locally is next to impossible for me, and turbo engines and parts are getting pretty expensive, so I made a logical choice and port matched a TII lower and bought all the factory turbo goodies to start with. I also ground out the exhaust sleeve diffusers.
From what I've seen so far, stock 4-port engines will have better low-end torque than 6-port engines with similar setups. The design of the intake ports are just better in 4-port side housings for low to mid range RPMs. Higher compression rotors help to mitigate the difference, but if you have 4-port side housings and 9.4:1 rotors you should get the best of both worlds, assuming the car is set up well. It appears that top end power isn't affected so much by the design of the 6-port housings. If I ever build a replacement engine, it will have the TII irons.
Huh. Now I'm no engineer or claim to have looked too deep into it, but for some reason I always assumed it was the 6 ports that gave a bit more grunt down low. Maybe I need to read up a bit more. But ya, cost and availability was my main reason for considering turboing the NA. Obviously a proper T2 swap is the right and easier way, but it's just becoming more cost effective to turbo out the NA engines these days. And as I said, I'd only be looking to make somewhere around 200-250 tops. But that's all far in the future, as for now, the guy said I could tkae a different one of his engines without the NA transmission for $300, so I'm going to be picking that up today, and I figure even if there's no compression on the keg, all the accessories I'm getting from it (it's a full motor) plus a keg to rebuild makes $300 well worth it.
It's the same concept with the 5/6 port sleeves--too much volume kills intake velocity and torque in the low end. I'm sure as heck not an engineer either, but Mazda knew what they were doing.
Awesome find on the block! I hope there's plenty of life left in it.
It's the same concept with the 5/6 port sleeves--too much volume kills intake velocity and torque in the low end. I'm sure as heck not an engineer either, but Mazda knew what they were doing.
Awesome find on the block! I hope there's plenty of life left in it.
Ah, well that makes sense I guess.
Went and picked it up, comes with the intake all the way up to the TB, air pump, and rats nest along with a full harness. I already have an AC compressor and my rack is manual, so I'm not bothered about power steering. However, despite it spinning freely, I have a feeling it's going to need a rebuild. Any input on it?
No comment on the compression but, that small tank is for the sub zero start assist. It injects coolant into the intake in sub zero temps, to help de ice and up compression. I just learned there was a Mazda technical bulletin to remove it, so you should probably junk it.
No comment on the compression but, that small tank is for the sub zero start assist. It injects coolant into the intake in sub zero temps, to help de ice and up compression. I just learned there was a Mazda technical bulletin to remove it, so you should probably junk it.
Actually just found that out earlier myself. Read around and it seems some people have kept it and wired it to a switch for various purposes. Water injection for some steamy action, meth injection, although I'm sure for that one it was routed else where. Thinking of doing something similar to the water one, or maybe I'll fill it with Mountain Dew for extra dorito action. I don't really know yet, but I have nothing else to put there so it's not doing harm sitting there for now.
So, todays trip revealed that the paint is just going to need to be redone. The house paint is incredibly difficult to get off, so now to decide whether to go for a full repaint with the original color, or to go for a custom color, and whether or not I want to go for a cheap Maaco job in the interim just so I'm not driving around the jankiest thing out there. Here's a video of the electronics from the bezel, and the list of things to currently do on it. Boy is the list growing.
Passenger headlight motor (rebuild both sides, might as well)
Mix n match bezel modules
Replace radio, all speakers, new amp and wiring
5 lug swap (need calipers)
Full repaint
Rebuild motor, aqcuire transmission
New dash and interior trims (possibly custom made)
New speedo cable
Sunroof cable tubes (possibly cables as well)
Weather stripping for sunroof and rear hatch
New front carpet (possibly new carpet all around?)
So todays project has been cracking open the engine. With a little help from a friend, it appears that the coolant passages are absolutely disgusting, but cleanable. The housings appeared to be useable, however the irons are.... debatable I believe. We were running out of light, but that's about the best we could guess for today.
Also, broke a side seal that was extremely stuck. Odds are, there will be a few more of those, so I'm debating whether or not to go full hard seal replacement, along with all springs and gaskets. At which point, I'm wondering if I should just ship it off to a shop as it is now (disassembled) and let them work their magic. Although, assuming the irons are no good, I'm also debating whether or not to try and track down T2 irons and pair them with the NA rotors. Would that be something I can run off the stock ECU till I decide to go aftermarket and turbo it?
Rear iron and seals from rotor Rear rotor Center iron Front rotor Rear iron again Front housing
12-08-20, 03:51 AM
