Take off every part. Clean every part.

Thank you, evapo-rust. This liquid is magical. Dunk parts for a day, and they are rust free. Using it on fasteners and small parts.

Attachment 752908

Attachment 752909

I am only doing one "throttle body mod", and that is plugging the vacuum leak that is built into this gasket. I used RTV in the gasket slit, and then in the void in the casting. Allegedly the leak can hiss furiously at higher boost.

Attachment 752910

Think about the future, and then start replacing every vacuum line with silicone.

Attachment 752889

Run out of 10' of hose, after only doing half the motor. Order new hose, and find other things to do.

Attachment 752890

Odd Jobs:

Drill, tap 1/8 NPT, and relocate the temperature sensor.

Attachment 752891

Mount the water/meth nozzle aiming straight down the throttle body.

Attachment 752892

Cover some nice Sakebomb/MSD plug wires in split loom, like the Mazda factory did (can't have blue boots, but close enough).

Attachment 752893

POR-15 the steel LRB Speed Master Cylinder Brace.

Attachment 752894

I've been shopping for a catch can. Why so expensive?

Hello, VacMotion website.

https://www.vacmotion.com/Details.as...ilters&Id=2832

Hey, that looks like a catch can. You can even specify your fittings, bowl color, mesh size, and gasket material. $16.79 shipped.

Get your catch cans, folks.

-----------------

In build news, turbo and heat shields are off. Most everything is cleaned up,

Almost ready to start re-assembling this beaut.

Attachment 752863

I was going to use these OMP lines.

Attachment 752864

NO. WHAT? Who thought of this material? This added an unwanted task.

Attachment 752865

Thanks to the excellent instructions of Racer X-8, I bought new teflon line for decently cheap. On top, I added 1/4" thermal sleeve (Heatshield Products 204013), which is VERY similar to the factory material. Added some shrink wrap on the ends, but two of the ends came a bit loose during installation, so I suggest clamps for the truly obsessive.

Attachment 752866

And to fix up the copper washers, I annealed them with a torch (heat till cherry and let cool). This technique works great.

Attachment 752867

There they be. Pretty good.

Attachment 752868

Attachment 752869

:o nice

New Teflon/Kevlar fuel lines from Pegasus Racing, for a remote mount FPR.

Attachment 752832

This exotic material looks cheap and dingy, so I covered it with high temp sleeve. This will also be over the exhaust, so I might cook my return fuel a bit less.

Attachment 752833

The factory FPR comes off, replaced by a metric-to-AN adapter, and then a 90 swivel. The return line is a factory length of rubber line with a barb to AN adapter. "Fire sleeve" goes on all the rubber lines.

Attachment 752834

Attachment 752835

The fuel delivery is all settled. Injector Dynamics 725cc and 1000cc injectors, with stock routing and refreshed lines.

Attachment 752836

Alright it's turbo time.

Attachment 752837

This is my BNR stage 1/frankenstein that Bryan put together for me:
-T04E 50 trim compressor (great compressor map for the rotary)
-TA34 turbine
-Turbonetics dual port actuator (30326)

The TA34 wheel has a bit more tip clearance with the exhaust housing than stock. Probably sub-optimal, but adequate, and should flow well at the top end.

Attachment 752838

Though this is "Stage 1" bolt-it-up-and-drive-into-the-sunset external specifications, fitment was... well I've seen better. I bent the oil/coolant lines into place, and afterwards, find interference with the LIM, the airpump, and probably the PCV line too. The charge pipe alignment is fine, but the mockup here shows me how much I want to move it "outward".

Attachment 752826

Taking matters into my own hands. Relocate the boost line to the side.

Attachment 752827

Attachment 752828

Clock turbo nozzle outward a degree or three. Must re-align the actuator rod a bit. Works freely in a bench test.

Attachment 752829

And grind a shitload off the ear that hits the LIM.

Attachment 752830

New gasket.

Attachment 752831

Getting it back in.

Attachment 752822

Heat shields on. Only a little scratching. They are kind of a bitch to get on.

Attachment 752823

:D :D :D

Attachment 752824

Money

Attachment 752825

10ae
 

Looking great. Very clean nice work.

Guys, what is this tube? Was something connected to it?

Attachment 752818

I believe that's the ac evap drain

Thanks! It was just sitting there, staring at me, with no lines around to connect to it.

I'm surprised you kept the water running from the LIM. I can never get that to seal right...ever

We'll see if it do. It has a new gasket on it, at least.

----------------------------------

More boxes. This one took longer, since I broke off a tap in the aluminum case and had to build a new one. However, the second revision is pretty solid.

It's a relayed fuse box for all the auxiliary circuits, except the fuel pump, which gets a dedicated circuit. I'm using more of my high-amp RC connectors.

Attachment 752803

This mounts to the stock sub-zero assist/cruise control bracket. I also goofed up the paint on it, so it went to Bean's Best to get powercoated.

Attachment 752804

Attachment 752805

Getting it in.

Attachment 752806

The measuring has paid off.

Attachment 752807

Attachment 752808

Attachment 752809

Car is getting almost done :)

You are doing some beautiful work. I look forward to seeing where all you take this.

Since that BNR turbo is forwarder than stock, my rare Corksport Turbo-Inlet-Duct will never fit.

I hacksawed it in half, keeping the initial 3" section with the fittings.

TID, You shall be reborn.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

I made a ... Not sure what you call this. Wire thing to locate the turbo inlet.

Attachment 752769

3" hole saw, 3" pipe, some screws, lots of holding things up to other things...

Attachment 752770

DONE.

Attachment 752771

I AM THE JIG MASTER.

Wi-Fi? :D

Alright, sorry for the forever, but...

Watson Racing finished my 3" TID, using the Corksport TID as a starting point.

TID is so good.

Attachment 752700

It fits in an almost-stock manner. I had to cut off the steel bracket that holds that dumb little airpump muffler thingy, and I had to move the shock tower wiring harness rearward by flipping its mount 180 degrees. Now we have a nice 3" path for air.

Attachment 752701

It is assembled.

Attachment 752702



Tomorrow.

So nice , can't wait to see the finished result

Started easily on the first try. I am still tuning the car, but things are going well.

She looks pretty much the same as before I started. Sounds a little louder, with some nice turbo whistle on spool up.

Attachment 752633

Attachment 752634

Attachment 752635

Attachment 752636

Attachment 752637

Attachment 752638

Attachment 752639

Wastegate boost is about 7 PSI, and we are super rich all over the map.

Before I raise boost, there will be a journey of tuning.

My tuning strategy so far is:

-Use arghx's conservative timing maps, out of the box: New boost-based timing maps - RX7Club.com
-Make street pulls and compare my logged AFR with the RTEK boost index and fuel index. Make adjustments to that cell and the surrounding region.

I made a little spreadsheet (attached) to pen in the recorded AFRs in the associated fuel map cell. I'm assuming the new self-learning ECUs will do this tedious task for me.

To clarify, this is for the 333 ECU (and 332 I think) with RTEK 2.1 modifications.

Attachment 752623

Idle was 650 (not 750), possibly because of the throttle body passage I sealed up. TPS was dead nuts 20% at idle. Adjusting the BAC screw did absolutely nothing to idle speed. I resorted to adjusting the "idle stop" screw on the throttle body, and that brought it back up to 750. Very nice.

Not my photo, but this is the screw:

Attachment 752624

That bay is so mint brotha nice job .and thanks for the link to those timing maps . I'm trying to tune my 6 port with hx52 turbo and have added a couple degrees through out the Rpms and helped a lot . So I'm going to look them over

wow man, that car makes me jealous. looks new! and i really dig the RB strutbar

Nice piping:lol: