Originally Posted by 10thaniv
(Post 12000789)
Looks great. I went a little different route. https://www.rx7club.com/auxiliary-in...ank-ai-718694/
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Originally Posted by ColinShark
(Post 11990757)
Goals:
-About 300 tractable WHP -Exploit the great factory parts, engineering, and validation when possible -Keep things mostly stock looking and feeling -Don't mess up a 10th AE On to the build... Good luck in your efforts! |
We should plan the 1st or 2nd open track day at waterford, twin 10AEs haha
I'm liking the build so far! keep up the good work. you have the same moto as mine "don't ruin the 10AE" |
Originally Posted by fidelity101
(Post 12005130)
We should plan the 1st or 2nd open track day at waterford, twin 10AEs haha
I'm liking the build so far! keep up the good work. you have the same moto as mine "don't ruin the 10AE" |
4 Attachment(s)
Work resumes!
----------------------------------------------------- (Sweating) Measuring.. Attachment 753127 Someone said a rear strut brace ENDS creaks from the hatch area. I obsessed over this notion a while, until I decided to put this cusco piece in. After days and days of measuring and prep later, we now have holes in my car. Attachment 753128 I used a hole saw on the carpet and steel (cut the steel first, then carpet). A lot of slow work with a dremel let the bar clear the steel hole on all sides. Fitment at the carpet hole is very tight and good. One of the lugs had some detectable slop, but I decided to make the most of a rare part and reinforce it with a few wraps of 600lb tensile strength tape (3M 890MSR) designed to hold oily steel stock together. The bar will be covered, so aesthetics are flexible. Attachment 753129 I tightened the bar with the car lifted, so it should mostly stay in compression rather than tension. Attachment 753130 It even clears the speaker tubs! For new wiring, I used many RC parts, like flexible large gauge wire and high amperage connectors. The yellow connectors are XT90-S, rated for 90 amps. I now have two fuel pump harnesses, each with connectors, so I can run the car on old wiring if desired. |
Nice build! I need to get myself a 10thAE now, that's three MI 10thAEs now... Very clean too!
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3 Attachment(s)
Ran tubing and wire along the side of the interior: CO2, Methanol, Fuel Pump, Methanol Pump, Methanol Level Switch
Attachment 753116 Attachment 753117 Also found some 40mm grommets on Amazon that fit the strut brace holes. Looks better. Attachment 753118 |
:o thats nice
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3 Attachment(s)
Roll bar padding. It's very lightweight and stiff, and can be carved and sanded.
Attachment 753113 Attachment 753114 The velcro comes off when I remove the bar, so I might try another mounting scheme. I like the "clean" outer look. Attachment 753115 |
This is beautiful. Keep up the good work!
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When I first saw the grommet, I loved that idea. A nice clean way to provide a bit of a more factory look for an aftermarket installed part. Then, I kept scrolling and got to the roll bar padding. It makes the bar seem even more obtrusive into the hatch, but I think I like it. Keep up the fantastic work!
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by JerryLH3
(Post 12013971)
When I first saw the grommet, I loved that idea. A nice clean way to provide a bit of a more factory look for an aftermarket installed part. Then, I kept scrolling and got to the roll bar padding. It makes the bar seem even more obtrusive into the hatch, but I think I like it. Keep up the fantastic work!
-------------------------------- Minor Update: I redid the bar velcro, since the fitment did not please me and the velcro strips kept coming off. The actual solution is real velcro brand "Thin Clear Tape"
Amazon.com : VELCRO - Sticky Back - 15' x 3/4" Tape - Clear : Mounting Tapes : Arts, Crafts & Sewing
plus 3M spray adhesive between the tape and the foam. After a night to cure, the strips are bonded to the foam.The thin profile velcro allows a tighter fit. Very firmly mounted now, with less panel gap. Attachment 753111 |
1 Attachment(s)
Tonight, wrap.
Attachment 753071 Intent is to cook the floorpan and engine bay less. Some say it dampens some exhaust noise through the pipe walls, so I'm down for that. |
The first miles/km's they will smoke :p
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Originally Posted by damic
The first miles/km's the will smoke :p
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Originally Posted by lduley
(Post 12023862)
Ya, don't let that scare the shit out've you. Don't drench them in trans fluid either, makes a mighty fine fire in your engine bay
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Originally Posted by damic
Why would you drench them in trans fluid :scratch: just use tap water.
I helped my brother pull his engine out've his car because he was losing oil pressure. After all the fun of taking the oil pan off and replacing the oil pump we put the engine back in. Now mind you, we did this the REALLY wrong way and left the motor and trans hanging from the cherry picker, aka engine was straight up and down. So trans fluid was draining from the tailshaft and his wrapped headers were sitting on the concrete soaking up all the trans fluid. Needless to say when we started it, after it idle for about 5 minutes while we were looking for leaks, the headers went wooooosh Second time that engine has caught fire in that car, guess my brother has one more chance :hahano: |
Whahahaha lol :p always drain the fluids or loosen the trans from the engine.
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10 Attachment(s)
Some good building happened. Interior work, complete.
- - - I found a use for all these 40mm grommets I ordered. Access to the glovebox for electronics. Attachment 753028 It's just wide enough to slipe the connectors through. Attachment 753029 Herro Rtek. Attachment 753030 This ECU pin gets repurposed as +5V input, for logging the wideband. Attachment 753031 Damn it takes a long time to put together a wiring harness. This one grounds near the ECU, splits off to the firewall and the rocker, and then has a long "trunk" to reach up and out to the glovebox. Attachment 753032 How do you go through the firewall? No good way. After much thought, I decided the assault my big grommet. This is its job, after all. Attachment 753033 Attachment 753034 It's basically impossible to feed anything through the back of the grommet by hand. Trick is to feed a scrap wire through from the front, tape it to the real wires, and pull them through. Attachment 753035 There we go. Attachment 753036 Trying to tidy this up. Attachment 753037 |
4 Attachment(s)
Buttoning everything back up.
Attachment 753024 Attachment 753025 Attachment 753026 Attachment 753027 Next up, things happen to the engine. |
Absolutely flawless. I love every single thing you've done so far. I am also running a controller to my glove box and seeing how you've done it will definitely help with that.
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Absolutely beautiful 10th AE and amazing work on it!
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Would you mind posting some pics? I would love to see how it looks now.
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2 Attachment(s)
Sorry! Took a break to just hang out a bit, and to build this compuper:
Attachment 752950 IT IS SO GOOD. My last build was 8 years ago. Things have advanced, certainly. It's extremely quiet and has an i7 4790K. If you want a parts list, pm me. So to get back into the car, I drained the oil, and removed the undertrays. The cleanup process snowballed, until the alu undertray became pornographically polished. It will just become redirtied. Anyway, enjoy. Attachment 752951 |
Solid update about a computer on a car forum! Good to see an update, even if it's minor. While I'm here, I might as well ask what's the PC's graphics card and do you recommend it?
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