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I initially just wanted to buy the louvers for my red car but then he said the entire car for $1000 so I went to look at it in the dark. No gas tank in the car, and you could push the car while it was in gear pretty easily. It looked decent in the pitch dark but the next morning....a bit rougher than I thought.
The original plan was to put in the gas tank, finish the fuel feed line so I threw that together and thankfully it started. Popped the fuel return line but it started! It sat for 8 years before I got my hands on it and the brakes were so bad they had to be cut and broken off the hubs. It was a nightmare to say the least. Thankfully at this point is where things start to turn around, once the new brakes were on it needed rear brake lines, I had an old 3" cat back left from another car so that was put on and a 2.5" section welded up to the header.
I should mention this is my 7th FC chassis so that's why I have so many "spare" parts, I took a black aluminum n/a hood, chopped a big hole in it and riveted in a vent that was chopped outta a fiberglass AE86 hood. Threw on a set of cheap coilovers I had, swapped in a s5 n/a trans from my red car, new clutch kit, made .010 shims at work to shim my rear diff which is what was slipping.
At this point we moved shops so I took the wing off and actually drove to the new shop. The car rode pretty decent on the cheap coilovers not set up at all. I picked up a set of s5 t2 snowflake wheels, grey t2 side skirts, an s4 turbo and manifold and an s5 turbo for $500. I decided I'm gonna boost the motor and see what I can pull out of a stock 6 port before she pops. My red car is a "fully built" 6 port with a huge turbo but it's a drag car in the making, the grey car is more street.
I have a set of 25mm and 30mm spacers to make the vert wheels sit flush with the body lines, so naturally when I got the wider Snowflakes I left them in place and just bolted on the new wheels lol.
The wheels rubbed pretty badly but it looks bitchin so I just rolled the holy hell out of the fenders and quarters and called it a day. Lift the car up since it rubs?? That's taking the easy way out! When I got all the turbo parts and wheels I also got a set of 26x10.5 slicks and skinnies for my red car the same day, and turns out my grey car may get more traction....
Once we realized the rear end was slipping not the clutch I pulled the subframe and pulled the diff apart. I think the clutches in the LSD were slipping bc of garbage fluid and being old so I made my shims and I'll be assembling it soon.
Once the rear is back in I need to figure out this PNP Megasquirt I got and then my car can finally be driven hard. It free revs fine but under load it breaks up under heavy throttle. I also did the TB mod, removed the entire A/C system, and removed P/S. I have a walboro 255 fuel pump, rc550/id1000cc combo for fuel. I have a t2 lower 6 port matched, and I may be getting a t2 TB, upper intake, and fuel rails soon in trade for the stock turbos I have. And we're making a manifold for the CX racing turbo my buddy had on his drift 6 port turbo. Once I get lower latches, a center support piece, and an upper slat I can put my louvers on, I put on the T2 skirts I got today but no pics, and I'm trying to modify the mud flaps to fit with the skirts on the front. I'll take interior pics and motor bay pics next time I'm at the shop later tonight.
I thought my MS would come with directions but I was sorely mistaken and now I have no idea what wire goes to what pin. It's a MS PnP for an FC and I guess I'm the only one to ever use it. If anybody can point me in the right direction to a pin out, or how to figure out which wire goes to which pin that would be fantastic. My buddy is building it for me bc I have no idea what I'm doing and we're stumped at this point.
Stopped up at the shop for pics on my break from work, still dirty and dusty, interior can use another clean but she cleaned up quite well. It needs buffed to get rid of the sticker residue from years ago. Overall I'm very happy with my cheap FC #7.
The shifter is half of a D16A1 Honda cam, and I put my t2 shirts on which look perfect.
And that's where I've gotten to at this point. Hopefully I can get my Megasquirt in soon so I can finally actually drive the car for a little while n/a before making the swap.
I thought my MS would come with directions but I was sorely mistaken and now I have no idea what wire goes to what pin. It's a MS PnP for an FC and I guess I'm the only one to ever use it. If anybody can point me in the right direction to a pin out, or how to figure out which wire goes to which pin that would be fantastic. My buddy is building it for me bc I have no idea what I'm doing and we're stumped at this point.
I was unaware that they made a PnP Megasquirt, but I would direct you to the Megasquirt board. muythaibxr is a Megasquirt mod and I believe he works with the engineers designing and building them. I would start there. He did say that they have problems with the harness causing noise, so you would honestly be better off starting anew.
I've been emailing MS tech support and hopefully we'll be able to get it finished. I'm already way over my head with it and I'm not sure if anything from MS2 or MS3 translates over, and it doesn't help that apparently I'm the 1st person ever to use it lmao.
I planned on shimming my LSD so that my rear diff would actually function as such, but there's no friction material on the clutches and the shims are tin so I was afraid of slipping or tearing them, so we just welded it to all holy hell.
Factory vs Welded
I fairly sure I'm gonna snap axles before these welds break, my slicks will put it to the test that's for sure. When my red car was n/a I sheered the front rear diff mount at the drag strip so instead of a snubber were gonna box in the mount with some scrap metal and cross our fingers. It should basically be a solid mount, and axles are much easier to swap out than diffs and diff mounts.
Reassembled my diff and since I marked it it was pretty straight forward.
The diff looks like it's straight outta star wars....
My friends have free time lol. After I put the car all back together I got my buddy to refinish the paint and try to get rid of the dark spots from the old sticker down the side but it wouldn't come out. Regardless it still looks much better.
Came back the next day and hooray surprise for me my brand new caliper with 10 miles on it decided to spring a leak out the piston. Damn dirty pistons ruin EVERYTHING!!
I had been dreading pealing all the bubbling tint off my hatch and as I was swapping window switches to get my passenger window to go down, and I realized my red car has perfect tinted windows, and a perfect tinted hatch so I swapped glass between the cars since I'm gonna smash the hatch glass and swap plastic for all windows so that made my life much easier. It also happens to look damn good as well. I also trim blacked my rear wiper arm and my power RE-Amemiya mirrors to clean up the overall look a bit.
I can't wait to drive this thing around and break some necks and blow out a few ear drums lol
I've been Xing out headlights for a decade now lol, old habits die hard. As for the welded diff, if you want to spend $500 on rebuilding an n/a LSD that's all you. If I was gonna spend $500 on a rear diff for my $1000 car I'd get a t2 and call it a day. Welding was free and now I can drive for literally no $$. Cage is a bolt in, could be welded I guess lol. As for my wing....don't put one on your car if you don't like it. I however do and untill I receive your check to help build my car, your opinions on what I do won't effect me lmao
Lol, I was hoping my dry humor wouldn't fall on deaf ears. It's a cheap car that I'm throwing spare parts on and not trying to spend to much money since I have a drag car I'm building as well.
Regardless this car will be built cheap but well to troll my piston friends. I'll blow my motor up to win a race, I don't stand to lose to much money lol
