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Widebody Turbo Swap - My Dream FB Build is Finally Happening!

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Old 02-28-15, 01:31 AM
  #76  
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S4 NA flywheel is what you have. The number on the other side is 326.
Old 02-28-15, 07:17 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B
S4 NA flywheel is what you have. The number on the other side is 326.
You're too good sir

It's a 326, I have a 318 in the TII. So on to trying to get my money back or selling this flywheel off. I need to quit being so trusting with people and make sure that what I'm buying is the correct part. This is the second time this build that I've bought the incorrect part and that's my fault, so I'll try and be better at making sure what I'm buying is what I need.

I got the N318 stock S4 TII fuel pump sending unit and N318 boost pressure sensor in today.
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Old 02-28-15, 07:32 PM
  #78  
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I might have a t2 flywheel I can give you. I just gave away a 6puck disc and pressure plate yesterday to a buddy of mine!

I'll let you know when I go back over to my grandparents.
Old 02-28-15, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Broke_A_Baller
I might have a t2 flywheel I can give you. I just gave away a 6puck disc and pressure plate yesterday to a buddy of mine!

I'll let you know when I go back over to my grandparents.
Sounds good man. I'm actually tempted right now to go with an aftermarket flywheel and clutch setup, but a spare TII flywheel would be appreciated.

So much to get done, so little time...
Old 03-01-15, 12:30 AM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by DreamInRotary
I need to quit being so trusting with people and make sure that what I'm buying is the correct part.
You should ask more questions and we could help save you some money. Maybe? You post a lot of pictures and info already. It's ok to ask questions in your build thread too.
Old 03-01-15, 01:33 AM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by jeff20b
you should ask more questions and we could help save you some money. Maybe? you post a lot of pictures and info already. It's ok to ask questions in your build thread too.
x2
Old 03-01-15, 11:34 AM
  #82  
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Looking good dude, cant wait til this thing is rotating!
Old 03-01-15, 01:21 PM
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good stuff, subscribed, kinda sad you gave up on the wide body, but I understand, I have been prepping the body of one for nearly a year now.
Old 03-01-15, 01:48 PM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B
You should ask more questions and we could help save you some money. Maybe? You post a lot of pictures and info already. It's ok to ask questions in your build thread too.
Originally Posted by Broke_A_Baller
x2
I know guys, I'll make more of an effort to pay attention to what I'm buying in the future. Hopefully I can get my money back from the seller, or sell the part myself to get the money I spent on it back. I asked him too if it was an S4 or S5 TII and he assured me it was an S4 so I bought it. Ah well, live and learn I guess.

Originally Posted by atheadwins
Looking good dude, cant wait til this thing is rotating!
Thanks man, I can't wait either!

Originally Posted by che'srx-7
good stuff, subscribed, kinda sad you gave up on the wide body, but I understand, I have been prepping the body of one for nearly a year now.
I didn't necessarily give up on the widebody, it's just that the structural repairs to the widebody kit will take me months of work to finish. And I'm working in a garage that gets below 30 degrees every night (it's only maybe 10 degrees warmer than the outside temp here in MN) so it's not a conducive place to do fiberglass work right now. If I were to get a heater with a thermostat after insulating and finishing the garage then it would be fine, just keep it at least 50 degrees all winter in there. But I don't exactly have the money to spend on a huge project like that right now since it isn't my house.

This summer, once I can get the car out of the garage during the days I have off, I'll be doing the fiberglass repairs to the kit. It'll be put back to brand new condition in order for me to try and replicate the kits. I'll be learning how to make molds and I want to try and make my own kits based on the Pacifica Widebody Kit. There will be some corrections and changes I make based on the complexity of the kit design to make it easier to install and mold onto a car. It should be a pretty fun project for me, and I would like to make money on the kit and rename it after my username/small company name. That's way in the future though, not anytime soon.

The red chassis should be a good starting point for a widebody build should I decide to mold the kit onto it next winter, if I get that far.

I'm planning on pulling the black car out some night this week in order to start working on the red car. I'm going to be unbolting the rear end from the black car as much as possible in order to be able to roll it up the trailer, pull the rear axle out and drop it flat on the trailer when it goes away to get scrapped. Lastly, the front suspension will get pulled as well and the car will be filled with a ridiculous amount of scrap metal that's been accumulating around my parent's house. Then I'll have the whole suspension out of the black car ready to be put on the red car with the Epsilon wheels.

Before I can get the red car in though, I'll have the daily driver in the garage getting both lower ball joints, upper ball joints, and an outer tie rod end. That will hopefully only take one night with my dad's help and his lower ball joint press. The uppers are easy, just three bolts holding it to the upper a-arm and the upper ball joint nut that runs through the knuckle. Lowers will be much harder since they're pressed in and who-knows-how old...
Old 03-01-15, 02:10 PM
  #85  
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Your project is moving along fast, I look forward to reading the updates.I wish mine was going as smooth. Thank you for the help with the wiring
Old 03-01-15, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by erick31876
Your project is moving along fast, I look forward to reading the updates.I wish mine was going as smooth. Thank you for the help with the wiring
Thanks, it's gone pretty well so far! Hopefully it continues to go that way for the foreseeable future.

And no problem with the wiring help, feel free to email me if you have any more questions. I'll be doing some modifications to that wiring Excel writeup I did for the last build when I do this one...*hint* think wiring tuck *hint*...
Old 03-01-15, 02:55 PM
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Awesome, let me know when you do it
Old 03-01-15, 03:15 PM
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Brake tuck while you're at it :-)
Old 03-01-15, 04:35 PM
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engine tuck!
Old 03-02-15, 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by erick31876
Awesome, let me know when you do it
Sounds good man, I'll post it up here when I get the chance!

Originally Posted by Broke_A_Baller
Brake tuck while you're at it :-)
Any good examples that you know of? I'd be interested to see how someone successfully tucks hard brake lines. A writeup is what I'm referring to - that's how I learn best

Originally Posted by j9fd3s
engine tuck!
If you type that in Google it actually comes up with a ton of results!

One of the reasons that I'm considering doing this is because there was a wicked clean B5 Audi S4 2.7TT that was all tucked at Cars & Coffee last year. I'll try to find a picture of it here in a minute.

Anyone have any experience with tucking?

[See Nick and Jeff, I'm asking questions ]
Old 03-02-15, 01:25 AM
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I use to brake tuck people's cars when I was in the civic game lol.

I couldn't imagine it would be any different.

Get hard brake lines, flaring tool, fittings, and line bender.

Then figure where you're placing the prop valve. From my past experience (in Hondas mind you), either inside on the firewall, by wiper "bay," or some people even wanted it under the car.

I can see if I can find some pics for you.
Old 03-02-15, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by DreamInRotary
If you type that in Google it actually comes up with a ton of results!

One of the reasons that I'm considering doing this is because there was a wicked clean B5 Audi S4 2.7TT that was all tucked at Cars & Coffee last year. I'll try to find a picture of it here in a minute.

Anyone have any experience with tucking?

[See Nick and Jeff, I'm asking questions ]
lmao! who knew?

tucking the Rx7 doesn't give you quite the same results as the honda/audi's as the Rx7 is pretty tidy to start with. for example the main harness is already down on the frame rail. it isn't out of sight, but it at least is down in a dark corner.

feel free to show my i'm wrong here

ps. if you want some examples of clean wiring, google Hiwatt amplifiers
Old 03-02-15, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by DreamInRotary
If you type that in Google it actually comes up with a ton of results!

Anyone have any experience with tucking?

[See Nick and Jeff, I'm asking questions ]
Got some unsavory results on Google with this tucking... By God... I'm a good Christian man. I don't even let my wife talk to me like that

LOL
Old 03-03-15, 11:49 AM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by Broke_A_Baller
I use to brake tuck people's cars when I was in the civic game lol.

I couldn't imagine it would be any different.

Get hard brake lines, flaring tool, fittings, and line bender.

Then figure where you're placing the prop valve. From my past experience (in Hondas mind you), either inside on the firewall, by wiper "bay," or some people even wanted it under the car.

I can see if I can find some pics for you.
Crazy! I'll have to look into that now. Behind the wiper panel on an FB is plenty spacious enough for a project like that...

Originally Posted by j9fd3s
lmao! who knew?

tucking the Rx7 doesn't give you quite the same results as the honda/audi's as the Rx7 is pretty tidy to start with. for example the main harness is already down on the frame rail. it isn't out of sight, but it at least is down in a dark corner.

feel free to show my i'm wrong here

ps. if you want some examples of clean wiring, google Hiwatt amplifiers
I agree that the rotary is a pretty clean example of a motor anyways, but I think tucking the wiring harness and vacuum lines would really help the simplicity of the engine bay. I'll give it a go and see what comes of it.


Did you mean these guitar amps? They do have some clean wiring on the inside from what I could see. I used to play acoustic guitar a bit, haven't done it in a while though. I'd love to get a Takamine or Jasmine acoustic/electric to start up again though.

Originally Posted by atheadwins
Got some unsavory results on Google with this tucking... By God... I'm a good Christian man. I don't even let my wife talk to me like that

LOL
Haha yeah, you've got to be careful with some searches!

Update on the week so far:
I got a free FC gas tank just for that mounting ring for the fuel pump. Cool local guy about my age who's got a nice S4 TII that didn't need the tank anymore.

Tank isn't in terrible condition for free!


A few of the screws were busted off, but no big deal. I'll just heat them up and get them out when I have time. It'll happen before cutting it out - I think it would be easier that way.
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Then last night I got my computer project done, I'll see if you can follow my progression.
  1. Installed Oracle Virtualbox Virtual Machine (VM) on my computer
  2. Made a VM that runs 32bit Windows XP Professional
  3. Installed the Palm Desktop on the XP VM
  4. Got the USB to Serial adapter to work with a driver on the XP VM
  5. Hotsynced the Palm IIIc to Palm Desktop using USB to Serial adapter cable
  6. Dowloaded Rtek 7 tuning software
  7. Installed Rtek 7 tuning software on Palm IIIc
  8. Downloaded Palm OS Emulator on computer
  9. Put the ROM program on the Palm IIIc to get the ROM on the desktop
  10. Ran the Palm OS Emulator after stripping the ROM, running a Palm IIIc with the Palm IIIc ROM
  11. Installed Rtek 7 tuning software on Palm OS on the desktop
  12. Ran the Rtek 7 tuning software on the Palm IIIc on Palm OS Emulator on Desktop

Now, pictures are worth 1,000 words right? So this picture progression will help show what really happened there.

6. Hotsynced the Palm IIIc to Palm Desktop using USB to Serial adapter cable
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8. Installed Rtek 7 tuning software on Palm IIIc
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Rtek 7 tuning software running on the Palm IIIc
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13. Ran the Rtek 7 tuning software on the Palm IIIc on Palm OS Emulator on Desktop
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Fuel bargraph screen on tuning software
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So what all of this allows me to do is tune the car from the following three devices:
  • Palm IIIc Handheld device on its dock by the stock serial cable
  • My computer running WinXPPro on a VM through the USB to Serial cable with the Palm IIIc ROM on Palm OS
  • My phone using the Bluetooth Serial adapter from Digital Tuning with the Rtek 7 tuning Android Bluetooth software
Old 03-03-15, 11:52 AM
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I heard you got that tank from a buddy of mine? If so, that's one of my old tanks :-p.

I might have some straps for it for free too if you're interested! Lol
Old 03-03-15, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Broke_A_Baller
I heard you got that tank from a buddy of mine? If so, that's one of my old tanks :-p.

I might have some straps for it for free too if you're interested! Lol
Yeah, from Bailey (GrayBush here on the forum)! Super cool guy, nice FC too.

I don't need straps for it since I'm using the FB tank again, just with an FC fuel pump hanger basically.
Old 03-03-15, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by DreamInRotary
Yeah, from Bailey (GrayBush here on the forum)! Super cool guy, nice FC too. I don't need straps for it since I'm using the FB tank again, just with an FC fuel pump hanger basically.
Yeah he bought that so I could buy my 20b lol.

Ahhh makes sense.
Old 03-03-15, 09:03 PM
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It snowed a few inches down here today, I found this pretty entertaining
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Every time I read that I hear Jack Sparrow's voice, accent and all, in my head. It's just so accurate!

Originally Posted by Broke_A_Baller
Yeah he bought that so I could buy my 20b lol.

Ahhh makes sense.
Nice! Yeah, the fuel tank mod is coming up but not quite yet. Still a whole lot of stuff to get done before then.

Ripped into the interior to start the day off, since someone wants to buy a whole lot of it.
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Had to get a pile of new tools to get the rear axle out. The reciprocating saw helped the most, made it much faster than using a cutoff wheel.
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This ended my night of working on the car. I ended up punching somewhere on the rear axle, while using a pry bar to put a bolt back in the bar slipped.
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w
The whole passenger side of the rear axle is free except the top control arm and spring. I left those in so I could roll the car out of the garage once I get the other side mostly out. There won't be too many hours left of work to get the driver's side loose enough where I can easily roll the car out. Then it's just loading it on the trailer, pulling out two or three bolts, and ripping the rear end out of it. Only other thing to do is pull the front suspension off as well.
Old 03-06-15, 07:41 PM
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Since it got up to almost 40 degrees Fahrenheit today (felt warm to me, I was out in a t-shirt today) I decided to pull the car out and clean the garage. I'm really glad that I decided to do so, it feels so much nicer in there with the floor clean and after using the compressor to dust the whole back end of the garage where the Bondo dust had been sitting. After the car came back in I put the body kit in the attic, so it feels much better in there.

Notice the cut off bar there, it's the upper Watts link since I was too lazy to deal with the rusted in bolts any more.
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She finally got to see the sunshine today!
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Just look at that rust back there...
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How she came out of the garage.
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Before I started cleaning out the garage.
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After the cleaning and dusting the parts and back of the garage out - that Bondo dust gets everywhere!
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How she got pushed back into the garage after the massive cleaning, pretty crooked.
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New vanity plates came in today!
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Old 03-07-15, 12:24 AM
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I also got a little bored in the garage today after getting the rear end ready for removal, so I made a humorous video for once



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