Widebody Turbo Swap - My Dream FB Build is Finally Happening!
#327
Austin, harbor freight sells some media blasting equipment. I can recommend their gravity fed handheld gun (the one with the 20oz hopper). It works well for smaller parts, but make sure to keep the moisture down or it will clog. For $20 its hard to argue, and I've run at least 100 pounds of sand through the thing. They also have larger tanks and even cabinets but I cant comment on the quality of those... They are from Harbor so you get what you pay for haha. I've got what I believe is a 40LB blaster setup on permanent loan from a family member if you catch my drift, I've done an entire ATV frame with that. My uncle bought it from either harbor or northern tool and it works well enough, but the valve on the gun is broken which really sucks. It's a messy process but totally worth it, the end products come out really well
#328
turbo or bust
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: bristol,pa
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Austin, harbor freight sells some media blasting equipment. I can recommend their gravity fed handheld gun (the one with the 20oz hopper). It works well for smaller parts, but make sure to keep the moisture down or it will clog. For $20 its hard to argue, and I've run at least 100 pounds of sand through the thing. They also have larger tanks and even cabinets but I cant comment on the quality of those... They are from Harbor so you get what you pay for haha. I've got what I believe is a 40LB blaster setup on permanent loan from a family member if you catch my drift, I've done an entire ATV frame with that. My uncle bought it from either harbor or northern tool and it works well enough, but the valve on the gun is broken which really sucks. It's a messy process but totally worth it, the end products come out really well
Also how much sound deadening mat did you use to do the back of your car
#329
Out In the Barn
iTrader: (9)
If your going through all this work of striping and painting parts, it really is worth it to powder coat them.
When I first started out, I had a cheap 20 gallon air compressor and a sand blast gun that was just the gun and a pickup hose. You placed the pickup in a 5 gallon bucket of sand. I got some cheap sand at a gravel place. I had to shift the sand with a window screen shifter I made because the sand partials where too big and would get stuck in the gun. I did the blasting on my driveway so I could sweep it up, shift it, and start over again. Those where not fun days.
I now have a cheap HP blast cabinet with a nice gun along with an 80 gallon 220 volt compressor. For powder coating, I have a dual voltage Eastwood gun and use a home oven.
When I first started out, I had a cheap 20 gallon air compressor and a sand blast gun that was just the gun and a pickup hose. You placed the pickup in a 5 gallon bucket of sand. I got some cheap sand at a gravel place. I had to shift the sand with a window screen shifter I made because the sand partials where too big and would get stuck in the gun. I did the blasting on my driveway so I could sweep it up, shift it, and start over again. Those where not fun days.
I now have a cheap HP blast cabinet with a nice gun along with an 80 gallon 220 volt compressor. For powder coating, I have a dual voltage Eastwood gun and use a home oven.
#330
Wow, thanks for all the responses guys! Just you wait till I do a HUGE picture/progress update after I respond
I gotcha man, I know I really should have, and should continue powder coating more stuff.
I love HF, I'm always buying something from there at one time or another. I'll have to consider it more heavily on your recommendation!
Thanks for the advice! I never would have thought of hooking up a Shop Vac to help with air circulation, good tip there. I'll just go out and get a new setup instead of paying you for shipping - the way they rape ya on shipping costs nowadays I'd be better off buying a new one Thanks for the offer though, it's greatly appreciated!
I know I should have coated more parts, it was stupid of me not too. It's just that I had easy access to paint and thought it would be the easier/better route. If I ever get around to it I'll go back through and sandblast and powder coat more parts. I've got a cheap HF 21gal air compressor that you can see if you go back in the build thread a bit. It just doesn't flow enough CFM (5.8 at 40psi, 4,7 at 90psi) to hold its own. First I'd get the blasting equipment, then I would need to upgrade the air compressor soon after.
Your coating setup sounds amazing! I hope to eventually get there someday. With this new job I'm definitely making more money than ever, so that'll help me out.
Austin, harbor freight sells some media blasting equipment. I can recommend their gravity fed handheld gun (the one with the 20oz hopper). It works well for smaller parts, but make sure to keep the moisture down or it will clog. For $20 its hard to argue, and I've run at least 100 pounds of sand through the thing. They also have larger tanks and even cabinets but I cant comment on the quality of those... They are from Harbor so you get what you pay for haha. I've got what I believe is a 40LB blaster setup on permanent loan from a family member if you catch my drift, I've done an entire ATV frame with that. My uncle bought it from either harbor or northern tool and it works well enough, but the valve on the gun is broken which really sucks. It's a messy process but totally worth it, the end products come out really well
There blast cabinet isn't bad, I have one, the only thing is you need to hook up a shop vac, or something else to draw the air out, or after 1 minute of use, you won't be able to see.I also have one of the hand held ones like fb or die was describing, it actually works really good. If you want it it's yours, just pay for shipping.
Also how much sound deadening mat did you use to do the back of your car
Also how much sound deadening mat did you use to do the back of your car
If your going through all this work of striping and painting parts, it really is worth it to powder coat them.
When I first started out, I had a cheap 20 gallon air compressor and a sand blast gun that was just the gun and a pickup hose. You placed the pickup in a 5 gallon bucket of sand. I got some cheap sand at a gravel place. I had to shift the sand with a window screen shifter I made because the sand partials where too big and would get stuck in the gun. I did the blasting on my driveway so I could sweep it up, shift it, and start over again. Those where not fun days.
I now have a cheap HP blast cabinet with a nice gun along with an 80 gallon 220 volt compressor. For powder coating, I have a dual voltage Eastwood gun and use a home oven.
When I first started out, I had a cheap 20 gallon air compressor and a sand blast gun that was just the gun and a pickup hose. You placed the pickup in a 5 gallon bucket of sand. I got some cheap sand at a gravel place. I had to shift the sand with a window screen shifter I made because the sand partials where too big and would get stuck in the gun. I did the blasting on my driveway so I could sweep it up, shift it, and start over again. Those where not fun days.
I now have a cheap HP blast cabinet with a nice gun along with an 80 gallon 220 volt compressor. For powder coating, I have a dual voltage Eastwood gun and use a home oven.
Your coating setup sounds amazing! I hope to eventually get there someday. With this new job I'm definitely making more money than ever, so that'll help me out.
#331
I also got a usable center iron as well with very little runout, so both of these parts are a huge help.
Replacement rotor housing is in as good of, if not better shape, than my good housing!
The parts that I used for the new hard brake lines.
Hard line running underneath the protector where it originally did
Stock line splitter, obviously needs to be sand blasted
Outer hard brake line routing
Outer hard brake line routing
Coil at the end of the hard brake line to take up some length
First patch welded in for the storage bin on the driver's side
First patch welded in for the storage bin on the driver's side
New sheet metal piece I made by hand for the outer layer
New tools to help with welding and grinding! Loving it so far, one of the best tool purchases I've made in a while.
Replacement rotor housing is in as good of, if not better shape, than my good housing!
The parts that I used for the new hard brake lines.
Hard line running underneath the protector where it originally did
Stock line splitter, obviously needs to be sand blasted
Outer hard brake line routing
Outer hard brake line routing
Coil at the end of the hard brake line to take up some length
First patch welded in for the storage bin on the driver's side
First patch welded in for the storage bin on the driver's side
New sheet metal piece I made by hand for the outer layer
New tools to help with welding and grinding! Loving it so far, one of the best tool purchases I've made in a while.
#332
Outer piece finally welded onto the car.
Outer piece finally welded onto the car.
Rear axle carrier and differential are hung!
Uh oh...axles won't fit in this length of space....
Uh oh...axles won't fit in this length of space....
I'll just roll it further out on the jack!
Passenger's axle in.
Rear shot of the car with the Epsilon Center Lock wheels installed...mmmph...
Rear shot of the car with the Epsilon Center Lock wheels installed...mmmph...
She's getting there Epsilon Center Lock wheels
She's getting there Epsilon Center Lock wheels
Stock 13's versus the 16's Epsilon Center Lock wheels - there's a clear winner here
Outer piece finally welded onto the car.
Rear axle carrier and differential are hung!
Uh oh...axles won't fit in this length of space....
Uh oh...axles won't fit in this length of space....
I'll just roll it further out on the jack!
Passenger's axle in.
Rear shot of the car with the Epsilon Center Lock wheels installed...mmmph...
Rear shot of the car with the Epsilon Center Lock wheels installed...mmmph...
She's getting there Epsilon Center Lock wheels
She's getting there Epsilon Center Lock wheels
Stock 13's versus the 16's Epsilon Center Lock wheels - there's a clear winner here
#333
Rotor didn't make it here safely...
One damaged spot on the box.
Secondary spot on the box that is damaged, I assume this is where the incident occurred.
Look at that apex seal slot!
Look at that apex seal slot!
Look at that apex seal slot!
Look at that apex seal slot!
I ordered that rotor from turbo_dave here on the forum and he sent me pictures of each rotor face before he shipped it out. It arrived like that, isn't that insane! It must have dropped onto a super hard surface (guessing concrete) from a pretty decent height to cause that much damage. He's one of the best sellers I've ever dealt with on here and sent me a refund instantly - I'd recommend him any day of the week!
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...irons-1086224/
That's his post if you guys need anything!
One damaged spot on the box.
Secondary spot on the box that is damaged, I assume this is where the incident occurred.
Look at that apex seal slot!
Look at that apex seal slot!
Look at that apex seal slot!
Look at that apex seal slot!
I ordered that rotor from turbo_dave here on the forum and he sent me pictures of each rotor face before he shipped it out. It arrived like that, isn't that insane! It must have dropped onto a super hard surface (guessing concrete) from a pretty decent height to cause that much damage. He's one of the best sellers I've ever dealt with on here and sent me a refund instantly - I'd recommend him any day of the week!
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...irons-1086224/
That's his post if you guys need anything!
#335
OMG a Chupacabra!
iTrader: (26)
Wow...that person that shipped that rotor needs to have some classes on how to properly package a rotor.
I always bubble wrap my rotors multiple times. Then I place bubble wrap on the bottom. Then I place the rotor in the box and place packaging material all around the rotor and on top. By the time I'm done and it's all boxed up the rotor has no movement even if I were to aggressively shake it. Dang noobs :p jk.
Also, my good sir, if you paid anymore than $40 for that rotor I'll slap you (not really, but yeah) because I had two s4 t2 rotors I sold for $80 to a guy earlier this week.
I always bubble wrap my rotors multiple times. Then I place bubble wrap on the bottom. Then I place the rotor in the box and place packaging material all around the rotor and on top. By the time I'm done and it's all boxed up the rotor has no movement even if I were to aggressively shake it. Dang noobs :p jk.
Also, my good sir, if you paid anymore than $40 for that rotor I'll slap you (not really, but yeah) because I had two s4 t2 rotors I sold for $80 to a guy earlier this week.
Last edited by Broke_A_Baller; 07-18-15 at 09:34 PM.
#337
Wow...that person that shipped that rotor needs to have some classes on how to properly package a rotor.
I always bubble wrap my rotors multiple times. Then I place bubble wrap on the bottom. Then I place the rotor in the box and place packaging material all around the rotor and on top. By the time I'm done and it's all boxed up the rotor has no movement even if I were to aggressively shake it. Dang noobs :p jk.
He's a good guy, and it wasn't shipped badly. It was just that it was dropped so hard on the worst part possible.
Also, my good sir, if you paid anymore than $40 for that rotor I'll slap you (not really, but yeah) because I had two s4 t2 rotors I sold for $80 to a guy earlier this week.
I always bubble wrap my rotors multiple times. Then I place bubble wrap on the bottom. Then I place the rotor in the box and place packaging material all around the rotor and on top. By the time I'm done and it's all boxed up the rotor has no movement even if I were to aggressively shake it. Dang noobs :p jk.
He's a good guy, and it wasn't shipped badly. It was just that it was dropped so hard on the worst part possible.
Also, my good sir, if you paid anymore than $40 for that rotor I'll slap you (not really, but yeah) because I had two s4 t2 rotors I sold for $80 to a guy earlier this week.
Unfortunately no, I won't be getting to engine work next. Maybe some small stuff but no building or new parts for a while.
I'm picking something else up on Sunday if everything works out...
#338
So I picked this up yesterday, this is the big surprise
Rear end of the car
Front end of the car
Some sort of snowflake-looking wheels that I don't recognize - any ideas?
Nice small one-piece rear wing.
It's in pretty good shape for having sat for 20 years!
Tabs were last renewed for the 1995-1996 year. Here in MN we buy our tabs before they expire, so this person would have bought tabs in November 1995 in order to drive the car for the next year, to 1996. So this car has most likely sat for the last 20 years.
Rear end of the car
Front end of the car
Some sort of snowflake-looking wheels that I don't recognize - any ideas?
Nice small one-piece rear wing.
It's in pretty good shape for having sat for 20 years!
Tabs were last renewed for the 1995-1996 year. Here in MN we buy our tabs before they expire, so this person would have bought tabs in November 1995 in order to drive the car for the next year, to 1996. So this car has most likely sat for the last 20 years.
#339
The interior is in pretty good shape for having sat for so long!
91,139 miles on this old gem, and I believe it.
The whole floorboard on the passenger side is totally gone, as well as the frame rail. That yellow spot you see is part of the strap holding the car on the trailer. It's beyond repair so it'll need to get scrapped after every good part is removed from the car.
Poor, old, abused, misused and sad example of a 12a motor.
Paint code on the hood, which is not the same as the paint on the door.
You can see the bronze color on the door here, I'm guessing this is the original body color.
91,139 miles on this old gem, and I believe it.
The whole floorboard on the passenger side is totally gone, as well as the frame rail. That yellow spot you see is part of the strap holding the car on the trailer. It's beyond repair so it'll need to get scrapped after every good part is removed from the car.
Poor, old, abused, misused and sad example of a 12a motor.
Paint code on the hood, which is not the same as the paint on the door.
You can see the bronze color on the door here, I'm guessing this is the original body color.
#342
Village Idiot
iTrader: (8)
Wow! Nice find - too bad it's so far gone... K3 is sunbeam silver metallic. What serial number is it??
The interior DOES look nice. If you have any bits to sell from there, I'll take dibs on the center console surround - the piece that goes from the right of the steering wheel around the center dash - if it's in good shape... As you can see, mine is a bit broken on the drivers side.
The interior DOES look nice. If you have any bits to sell from there, I'll take dibs on the center console surround - the piece that goes from the right of the steering wheel around the center dash - if it's in good shape... As you can see, mine is a bit broken on the drivers side.
#343
Thanks man!
The interior DOES look nice. If you have any bits to sell from there, I'll take dibs on the center console surround - the piece that goes from the right of the steering wheel around the center dash - if it's in good shape... As you can see, mine is a bit broken on the drivers side.
#344
Got to see this cool 20b powered FD this morning!
Interesting turbo configuration in my opinion...
Who says a Firebird Formula isn't practical! So many parts in one small-interior space car.
Adjustable rear sway bar, shifter surround, shifter boots for a start!
The three holes in the end of the rear sway bar.
FC LCA's for completing the front subframe swap.
Interesting turbo configuration in my opinion...
Who says a Firebird Formula isn't practical! So many parts in one small-interior space car.
Adjustable rear sway bar, shifter surround, shifter boots for a start!
The three holes in the end of the rear sway bar.
FC LCA's for completing the front subframe swap.
#347
I spent some time tearing apart the FC front end parts that I bought in order to get ready for the subframe swap.
Huge pile of suspension parts I have around - 2 sets of FC fronts, one FC rear, GSL-SE fronts and some rear springs for FB's.
The stupid bolt for the caliper got stuck in the spindle so I had to cut off the spindle in order to save the caliper.
I had to break one of the rotors in half in order to remove it.
Refurbishing the FC calipers now, still have two long bolts stuck in the caliper that also had its bolt stuck to the spindle. That side must have sat outside and really corroded together.
#348
Well...I just built my dream fuel system for my car. This all stemmed from a killer deal I got on Facebook for a Bosch 044 and Aeromotive A1000-6 Bypass EFI Fuel Pressure Regulator for $250 shipped. I figured since this build is along the lines of the "go big or go home" mentality, I might as well make it so I never have to touch the fuel system again. By shopping around for parts and getting the best deal on each component I know that I easily saved $100-200 on this setup, probably more than that even if I had wanted to have every fitting match (brand name-wise). I went with an entirely black fitting setup with silver stainless steel line that I plan on doing something kinda cool to...
Picture of the 044 and Aeromotive FPR I got from a guy on Facebook:
The fuel feed setup is based on this setup from FC3SPRO:
This is my actual list, with current prices as of 08/09/2015. Each item is hyperlinked to the exact product that I bought (this was truly painstaking )
$4.97 ---- 3/8" Barb to AN-6 Female- Summit
$25.97 --- AN-6 Male In/Out 40mic Fuel Filter - Summit
$5.97 ---- AN-6 Female/Female Coupler - Summit
$14.00 --- Bosch Adapters to AN-6 Males - B&R
$125.00 - Bosch 044 Fuel Pump - Facebook Deal
$6.99 ---- 3/8" Hard Line to AN-6 Female - Jegs
$18.97 -- 3/8" 25' Aluminum Fuel Line - Summit
$6.99 ---- 3/8" Hard Line to AN-6 Female - Jegs
$18.20 --- Fuel Y-Block AN-6 Inlet/Outlets - TRE
$4.97 ---- AN-6 Straight Hose End - Summit
$4.97 ---- AN-6 Straight Hose End - Summit
$16.65 -- AN-6 120deg Hose End - TRE
$16.65 -- AN-6 120deg Hose End - TRE
$4.40 ---- M14x1.5 to AN-6 Male - TRE
$4.40 ---- M14x1.5 to AN-6 Male - TRE
$4.40 ---- M12x1.25 to AN-6 Male - TRE
$4.40 ---- M12x1.25 to AN-6 Male - TRE
$4.97 ---- AN-6 Straight Hose End - Summit
$4.97 ---- AN-6 Straight Hose End - Summit
$4.97 ---- AN-6 Straight Hose End - Summit
$4.97 ---- AN-6 Straight Hose End - Summit
$125.00 - Aeromotive A1000-6 Bypass Regulator - Facebook Deal
$19.97 --- 0-100psi Fuel Pressure Gauge - Summit
$8.97 ---- AN-6 O-Ring to AN-6 Male Flare - Summit
$8.97 ---- AN-6 O-Ring to AN-6 Male Flare - Summit
$8.97 ---- AN-6 O-Ring to AN-6 Male Flare - Summit
$6.99 ---- 3/8" Hard Line to AN-6 Female - Jegs
$34.99 -- AN-6 10' SS Hose - Summit
$14.99 -- Bosch 044 Mounting Ring Red - eBay
TOTAL(without shipping/handling or tax)
$536.63
Now, if you were to purchase a new Bosch 044 and Aeromotive FPR:
$163.97 - Aeromotive FPR A1000-6 - Summit
$194.99 - Bosch 044 Fuel Pump - MAP I have to support the local MN businesses, and MAP is one of them!
TOTAL ALL NEW PARTS(without shipping/handling or tax)
$645.59
So right there I can see I already saved over $100 compared to buying new, when the pump and regulator I bought were only run for about 500 miles. Shows that it pays to shop around for parts!
Directional plan of the fuel system:
FEED
Fuel tank pickup
3/8" EFI rubber fuel line
3/8" barb to AN-6 Female
AN-6 Male In/Out 40mic Fuel Filter
AN-6 Female/Female Coupler
Bosch Adapter to AN-6 Male
Bosch 044 Fuel Pump (on mouning bracket)
Bosch Adapter to AN-6 Male
3/8" Hard line to AN-6 Female
3/8" Aluminum Fuel Line
3/8" Hard Line to AN-6 Female
Fuel Y-block AN-6 Male Outlets
2 AN-6 Female Hose Ends
2 AN-6 Lines towards Fuel Rails
2 120deg Swivel Hose End
2 M14x1.5 to AN-6 Male Adapters with Crush Washers
Fuel Rails
2 M12x1.25 to AN-6 Male Adapters with Crush Washers
2 AN-6 Female Hose Ends
2 AN-6 Lines towards Aeromotive FPR
2 AN-6 Female Hose Ends
Aeromotive A1000-6 FPR (w/0-100psi Fuel Gauge)
2 AN-6 Straight Cut O-ring to AN-6 Male
RETURN
Aeromotive FPR Return Port
AN-6 Straight Cut O-ring to AN-6 Male
AN-6 Female to 3/8" Hard Line Adapter
3/8" Aluminum Fuel Line
Flared end of the aluminum fuel line
Rubber fuel line to return on fuel pickup
Hopefully I can get around to building this awesome system sometime this week - I'm super stoked!
Picture of the 044 and Aeromotive FPR I got from a guy on Facebook:
The fuel feed setup is based on this setup from FC3SPRO:
This is my actual list, with current prices as of 08/09/2015. Each item is hyperlinked to the exact product that I bought (this was truly painstaking )
$4.97 ---- 3/8" Barb to AN-6 Female- Summit
$25.97 --- AN-6 Male In/Out 40mic Fuel Filter - Summit
$5.97 ---- AN-6 Female/Female Coupler - Summit
$14.00 --- Bosch Adapters to AN-6 Males - B&R
$125.00 - Bosch 044 Fuel Pump - Facebook Deal
$6.99 ---- 3/8" Hard Line to AN-6 Female - Jegs
$18.97 -- 3/8" 25' Aluminum Fuel Line - Summit
$6.99 ---- 3/8" Hard Line to AN-6 Female - Jegs
$18.20 --- Fuel Y-Block AN-6 Inlet/Outlets - TRE
$4.97 ---- AN-6 Straight Hose End - Summit
$4.97 ---- AN-6 Straight Hose End - Summit
$16.65 -- AN-6 120deg Hose End - TRE
$16.65 -- AN-6 120deg Hose End - TRE
$4.40 ---- M14x1.5 to AN-6 Male - TRE
$4.40 ---- M14x1.5 to AN-6 Male - TRE
$4.40 ---- M12x1.25 to AN-6 Male - TRE
$4.40 ---- M12x1.25 to AN-6 Male - TRE
$4.97 ---- AN-6 Straight Hose End - Summit
$4.97 ---- AN-6 Straight Hose End - Summit
$4.97 ---- AN-6 Straight Hose End - Summit
$4.97 ---- AN-6 Straight Hose End - Summit
$125.00 - Aeromotive A1000-6 Bypass Regulator - Facebook Deal
$19.97 --- 0-100psi Fuel Pressure Gauge - Summit
$8.97 ---- AN-6 O-Ring to AN-6 Male Flare - Summit
$8.97 ---- AN-6 O-Ring to AN-6 Male Flare - Summit
$8.97 ---- AN-6 O-Ring to AN-6 Male Flare - Summit
$6.99 ---- 3/8" Hard Line to AN-6 Female - Jegs
$34.99 -- AN-6 10' SS Hose - Summit
$14.99 -- Bosch 044 Mounting Ring Red - eBay
TOTAL(without shipping/handling or tax)
$536.63
Now, if you were to purchase a new Bosch 044 and Aeromotive FPR:
$163.97 - Aeromotive FPR A1000-6 - Summit
$194.99 - Bosch 044 Fuel Pump - MAP I have to support the local MN businesses, and MAP is one of them!
TOTAL ALL NEW PARTS(without shipping/handling or tax)
$645.59
So right there I can see I already saved over $100 compared to buying new, when the pump and regulator I bought were only run for about 500 miles. Shows that it pays to shop around for parts!
Directional plan of the fuel system:
FEED
Fuel tank pickup
3/8" EFI rubber fuel line
3/8" barb to AN-6 Female
AN-6 Male In/Out 40mic Fuel Filter
AN-6 Female/Female Coupler
Bosch Adapter to AN-6 Male
Bosch 044 Fuel Pump (on mouning bracket)
Bosch Adapter to AN-6 Male
3/8" Hard line to AN-6 Female
3/8" Aluminum Fuel Line
3/8" Hard Line to AN-6 Female
Fuel Y-block AN-6 Male Outlets
2 AN-6 Female Hose Ends
2 AN-6 Lines towards Fuel Rails
2 120deg Swivel Hose End
2 M14x1.5 to AN-6 Male Adapters with Crush Washers
Fuel Rails
2 M12x1.25 to AN-6 Male Adapters with Crush Washers
2 AN-6 Female Hose Ends
2 AN-6 Lines towards Aeromotive FPR
2 AN-6 Female Hose Ends
Aeromotive A1000-6 FPR (w/0-100psi Fuel Gauge)
2 AN-6 Straight Cut O-ring to AN-6 Male
RETURN
Aeromotive FPR Return Port
AN-6 Straight Cut O-ring to AN-6 Male
AN-6 Female to 3/8" Hard Line Adapter
3/8" Aluminum Fuel Line
Flared end of the aluminum fuel line
Rubber fuel line to return on fuel pickup
Hopefully I can get around to building this awesome system sometime this week - I'm super stoked!
#349
OMG a Chupacabra!
iTrader: (26)
So I have to give you advice based upon what I encountered while going off of another persons design and my real life setup :p.
I would recommend (now that you already ordered everything it's semi-pointless) putting your fuel pressure regulator where you plan on running it and then start designing your fuel system around that (an fittings and line wise). The lines and filter from the tank up to the bay are one thing, but where you place that fpr is going to be a make or break point for fittings you already ordered.
Moreover, for the fd at least, there is a minimum of 10' for the return line. The delivery line to the "Y" is also ~10'.
The issue I had when purchasing the fittings before outlining or designing the system in MY bay was that I had or didn't have all the fittings and was obligated to purchase new fittings (wasting more $$$).
also, make sure your lines do not slip down or whatever when youre installing the fittings. Many people just put them on and don't consider they may slip down a bit then have leaky fuel lines.
Anywho, good luck with the system. I have an hose cutters and wrenches and vice bracket if you want to borrow them.
-Nick
I would recommend (now that you already ordered everything it's semi-pointless) putting your fuel pressure regulator where you plan on running it and then start designing your fuel system around that (an fittings and line wise). The lines and filter from the tank up to the bay are one thing, but where you place that fpr is going to be a make or break point for fittings you already ordered.
Moreover, for the fd at least, there is a minimum of 10' for the return line. The delivery line to the "Y" is also ~10'.
The issue I had when purchasing the fittings before outlining or designing the system in MY bay was that I had or didn't have all the fittings and was obligated to purchase new fittings (wasting more $$$).
also, make sure your lines do not slip down or whatever when youre installing the fittings. Many people just put them on and don't consider they may slip down a bit then have leaky fuel lines.
Anywho, good luck with the system. I have an hose cutters and wrenches and vice bracket if you want to borrow them.
-Nick
#350
Slowly but surely
iTrader: (9)
Austin, u using a 40 micron filter before the pump or after? If after, I believe you may want to go a little smaller like a 10 micron filter as that large of a particle could damage injectors. I assume you will be mounting it internally with a sock but if not and using the 40 micron filter before the pump, that may be too restrictive. I'm planning on externally mounting my pump and using a 100 micron filter before and a 10 micron filter after.