I'm a man of few words. Thanks out to Jeff20b for carb mods. and dizzy.

 

I like what I see.

How big is your carb hat's inlet? It's huge. Is that an S4 turbo? Which year intake manifold is that? Just curious because I have an S4 turbo that needs to be installed somewhere. Maybe throw it on a 12A.

 

it's 3 inch in to 4 inch wide.. im going to pie cut up a new one i think...
all i got left it to figure out what do with with my coolant out of the turbo, and chop and cut the down pipe... and fuel pump stuff for boost, tho fuel setup would be ok out of boost.

 

I don't run coolant in my turbos. I've hooked it up before, but I do so much testing I leave the coolant nipples off for now.

 

i know, shame on you. im hoping it will last..

 

Nice,I like what your doing.it like how you welded your oil drain to the front cover. You can leave the coolant lines not hooked up,but I would get something to plug the holes where the lines go on the turbo

 

I leave the lines on the turbo to protect the threads etc. Just unhooked.

I add a brass fitting to my front covers for oil return. Works great.

 

What size fitting do you use,was pondering that for when I get to boosting my 12a

 

This: 45º Elbow Barb Fitting 5 8" ID Hose x 3 8 NPT Fuel Boat | eBay

It looks a little different from the one pictured, but the features are ideal. 5/8" nipple with 3/8" NPT. Worked perfectly. Nice large ID for easy oil flow. I install it down on the somewhat horizontal flat area below the OMP. Not the vertical area where the factory 12AT oil return was.

 

if you notice my oil feed and my drain are exact factory of a turbo II and this is the only way i do things. even when it comes to an after market turbo i want factory type hard lines, no rubber.. ever. its just my standard mainly because next is its for sale.

yes i had to pull the front cover and keep the clutch pressed it whle the hub was off, yes i broke my first attempt out of frustration.

 

Yaaaay another turbo nikki.

I guess I'm the redneck that just took the coolant lines off and didn't stuff anything back in the holes.

What kinda I/C piping are you using? I was thinking about just getting some 1 & 1/2 inch exhaust pipe and using that stuff for mine.

 

What is that intercooler from,I like where the inlet and outlet is positioned.

 

man i wish i coulda kept track were which cars i pulled them from but i have 5 or 6 that came from volvo vw saab and subaru. the ic pipe is all aluminum... just a genaric ebay kit, i think its 1.5 maybe 2.

 

I don't like one of the lines.. probably remake them both.. but here is how im doing my FPR. it's the mallory 4309.stil waiting on the fitting for the m10x1.0 carb threads.

 

That's how I did mine, except the lines from the Mallory to the carb on mine are longer. As the Mallory is located on the firewall.

 

are your lines metal? you mean the routing is the same...
im the first to put the FPR on the carb.. where it should be

 

It's best to keep the lines from the FPR to the carb as short as possible.

 

No, I used regular fuel line; yeah the routing from the FPR to the ft/rear bowls individually is the same like I did.

Dunno if you are the first to put a regulator on a carb, but I don't see it being an issue. I've always seen them on the firewall. To be honest I wanted to mount it closer to the carb, but I never saw any mounted on the engine itself so I went the road often traveled and mounted it on the firewall (baaaaa baaaa I'm a sheep). I like the metal lines you've got going on there looks sharp.


EDIT: Got a fuel pressure gauge?

 

the pressure gauge will be on for test and tune... then i hope for trouble free performance from the system and don't plan on having too many things to worry about watching. i may let jeff change my mind ...

 

I like how you have it set up.looks great, did you make any kind of mounting bracket, or are the lines going to be the only thing holding it.

 

Yeah, but its lazier to just leave it in place as apposed to finding a plug to fill the hole. AND I'm VERY lazy.

 

A suggestion: Be sure to check inside the float bowls for any metal debris after the metal lines are installed.

 

as if im going to get by without a jet change....

 

Exactly, but then I know they are pretty close.

Be sure to anneal the copper crush washers.

 

why, what if it doesnt leak fuel without the annealing.. what if copper annealed is as hard as aluminum not annealed...

i dont see the need for changing the hardness of the copper, as i never have before on brake calipers and you are talking 1500+psi with brake pressure....

please enlighten me. :P

i did some searching... annealing makes it SOFTER.. not hardened.. and people do it to used ones make reuse them... i am using new copper.. no worries. but good to know.


oh you meant the ones for doing the jet change.. you cheeky basterd.. im gonna go new on those too, got like 1000s of washers..