I have played with the EWPs since they were released in the early 2000s (Davies Craig is headquartered in Melbourne, where I live). Through much experimentation, I would definitely recommend retaining a bypass thermostat setup in combination with the Davies Craig controller.

Without it, warm up times are too long and with a decent radiator and v-mount setup, the engine will actually run too cold at higher road speeds (even with the EWP flow turned right down).

The 2 ways to achieve the bypass thermostat setup are to:

1) modify the factory thermostat housing but drilling and tapping a fitting to feed from the factory bypass channel inside the thermostat housing and running a hose from the that fitting to the heater return (into the bottom radiator hose). The bypass channel then needs to be blocked internally where it recess where the factory water pump impeller sits (but left open on the thermostat end). You then just run a factory thermostat with the bypass in place.


2) run a remote inline thermostat with bypass off the bottom radiator hose. I have identified OEM factory options suitable for this task from Rover, Lotus, Fiat and BMW.

There's some detailed info on this here: AusRotary.com ? View topic - ewp electric controller (go to the end of the thread for up to date info and diagrams)

Awesome! Thank you!

That is, to date, the most informative post on this entire thread. Greatly appreciated KYPREO! :nod:

No problem at all and glad it was so helpful for you.

There is a ton of good info in this thread I made in the 3rd gen section too (a lot of it by KYPREO as well :) )

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-flow-1110563/

After some further observations, I decided that while keeping the top mounted 270A alternator and power steering pump, I'll stick with the factory water pump configuration and 929 Brake Master conversion (since a hydroassist brake and a varying steering assist would wreak havoc on my driving experience).

Don't worry, it's not all bad news. I pulled, labeled, and tucked the wiring harness and power steering cooler out of the way to prep for the V-Mount today:

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"Sounds pretty badass. Keep doing what you're doing man. Once you get a product out and it running and dominating, that's when it gets attention. Do it for you. Do it for fun. At the end of the day it's all about enjoyment. Sounds like what you're doing is pretty fucking crazy and you should be proud."

Thank you Sir. I needed that. Back to the hustle!

Working alongside Skeese for proper cutting edge bullshit kinda has me on the fence about the ECU selection. One thing I've learned is to leave all electronics to the LAST possible minute. They will get better and CHEAPER as time progresses... Ballin' on a Budget.

Most of this will come from Chris @ LMS-EFI:

• Haltech Elite 2500 ECU
• Haltech TCA2 Thermocouple Box w/ CAN Cable
• IGN1-A Coils
• Ballenger Motorsports AFR500v2 w/ NTK Calibration Grade Sensor

None of it matters until the Fabrication is done.

Haltech will be fine, quality ECUs should stay relevant as the manufacturer updates the software. Look at the Motec M800, been around for at least 15 years and its still great.

I have been dead-set on the Adaptronic M6000 due to it's massive feature list and easy to use software, however, the forums tell the story pretty well on here. I'll hold my tongue to the specifics, but the QUALITY of the posts are obviously better on other ECU forums.

I'll still be able to add a Yaw/G-Sensor and calibrate some sort of traction control/boost-by-gear on the Haltech Elite 2500, as well as the Direct Fire Ignition and 3-Stage Injection. If you guys haven't seen it yet, I already figured out the VEC and large fuses planned out. All circuit breakers/relays throughout the whole car....none of this fusible link bullshit.

I have a ton of parts out getting machined right now, so hopefully right after finals I can update you guys with GOOD NEWS. For the time being, I'll ride it all out and drop off a few parts to fabrication as they trickle in.

I found the same thing when I moved to the haltech. While the majority of the posts in the adaptronic section are most commonly people fighting basic startup issues or trying to figure out how to turn on a 2 step and antilag on a tune that barely runs, those in the haltech forum are having intelligent conversations about advanced tuning methods and practices.

The other is Mickey Mouse in comparison, which I can say as I've played Adaptronic forum tuning tech support for the last 2 years.

Skeese

Ryan, the subaru master and booster are cheaper and just as good / better than the 929 thing.

Also, you can de-variable the p/s.

The whole point of a good power steering system is that it doesn't take away from the feel of the car when you want to drive properly, but when it comes to parallel driving or giving it to your mom to drive to the store, it doesn't kill her with difficulty either.

I try to avoid Subaru parts at all costs... Their inferior metals and recycled parts bin are a no-go for me.

CLearly, your going to need to drive my car at some point.

clearly i'll need to drive my car at some point too. ha

Clearly this build log needs updates.

What do you guys REALLY want to know? The turbos are coming along nicely. No pictures to show for it yet, but good reports at machining.

What do YOU want to see?

30 PSI, I want to see 30 PSI.

Skeese

I'll go over to the shop and show you 150psi... :lol::lol:

Fuck it, we're going to run this mystery motor hard on e85... Probably 20psi all day erryday, 30psi for the "Fuck You, I wanna Go Fast!" mode, in which a ticket is immanent.

or AAA roadside assistance.

As much as I want to run more power, the weak link on the turbo setup will be the cast steel turbine housing. I remember hearing of cracking at 15psi after 120k miles, so I think with the ceramic coating on the inside and out, I could do 20psi for 30k miles or 25psi for 15k miles and get away with it. :egrin:

#DangerToManifold #OhhhMeBoostah

What turbo are you running now? I thought you were going with an efr 9180 or something?

EFR9174 with 1.00 A/R IWG.

Whats all this nonsense about steel turbine housings failing at 15psi then?

It's a custom turbine housing. Notice how Borg Warner or anyone else for that matter doesn't make a 1.00 A/R IWG setup? :) :egrin::egrin:

Ok i must have missed that. Sorry for posting.

No no no, I appreciate your postings a lot. Don't be sorry for anything!

If I'm sorry for something, it's that I can't edit those pictures down on this thread to fit a proper 1000px wide forum screen. Ugh, they're supposed to auto-size, and when they only give you a finite time to edit your own post, it makes life a chore. I might just delete the whole post...in fact, I bet if I quote it, I can just post it as new and properly sized. Hahaha #ForumIssues

How's your car been?

After some further observations, I decided that while keeping the top mounted 270A alternator and power steering pump, I'll stick with the factory water pump configuration and 929 Brake Master conversion (since a hydroassist brake and a varying steering assist would wreak havoc on my driving experience).

Don't worry, it's not all bad news. I pulled, labeled, and tucked the wiring harness and power steering cooler out of the way to prep for the V-Mount today:


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...cd41fdae52.png

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e1230c8f8b.png

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...500cd81887.png

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9cf76012c3.png

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e60d82dd2e.png