My project - 85 GS
06-23-10, 01:22 AM
#52
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I believe the intake was 250, and I cant comment on how I like it as far as performance, I still havent started the car. I imagine it has better low end torque because of the longer runners.
Price may be cheaper if you dont want it polished as well.
Price may be cheaper if you dont want it polished as well.
06-24-10, 04:14 AM
#54
zoom zoom
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already did.. i brought it and the gauge back to autozone the day after i installed it.. complete junk.... and for anyone else reading this thread DO NOT BUY MR GASKET REGULATORS, GAUGES OR ANYTHING OF THE SORT. i wouldnt put it on my lawn mower
06-24-10, 08:03 PM
#56
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Well, anyhow, here's an update.
I was attempting to get this thing fired up by today, but have run into many unexpected issues. The driveshaft's diff side did not match up to the flange on the diff. I acquired a new driveshaft, but it will not go on. Seems that the yoke that goes into the transmission has quite a bit of surface rust. I soaked it in PB blaster for about 40 minutes and scrubbed the inside with a wire brush. Slid it on (went farther than the first time), then hit it with a hammer expecting it to finish sliding up so I can bolt it up. I got it about 3/4 of the way and now it doesnt seem to want to go on anymore, or come off anymore. My next step will be to try to heat it up so it will expand and possibly come off. After that, might just tie that bitch to a truck and give it a tug. I have a feeling though that will cause more harm than good.
Engine bay:
This is pretty much done, until I fire it up and find leaks, which I'm expecting. I'm leaking right now from the oil level sender.
Headlight:
Doesn't want to go down all the way. I'm not sure why this is. Neither headlight works either. I took out the cluster on the steering column and cleaned the **** outta it as recommended by kenetsu's write-up. I'll need to check if the headlights are just bad.
Driveshaft:
Stuck!!
Rear end:
This is how far from getting it on. Also, the diff is leaking, and missing a bolt. Go figure.
I feel pretty stuck right now, dont really know what to do.
I was attempting to get this thing fired up by today, but have run into many unexpected issues. The driveshaft's diff side did not match up to the flange on the diff. I acquired a new driveshaft, but it will not go on. Seems that the yoke that goes into the transmission has quite a bit of surface rust. I soaked it in PB blaster for about 40 minutes and scrubbed the inside with a wire brush. Slid it on (went farther than the first time), then hit it with a hammer expecting it to finish sliding up so I can bolt it up. I got it about 3/4 of the way and now it doesnt seem to want to go on anymore, or come off anymore. My next step will be to try to heat it up so it will expand and possibly come off. After that, might just tie that bitch to a truck and give it a tug. I have a feeling though that will cause more harm than good.
Engine bay:
This is pretty much done, until I fire it up and find leaks, which I'm expecting. I'm leaking right now from the oil level sender.
Headlight:
Doesn't want to go down all the way. I'm not sure why this is. Neither headlight works either. I took out the cluster on the steering column and cleaned the **** outta it as recommended by kenetsu's write-up. I'll need to check if the headlights are just bad.
Driveshaft:
Stuck!!
Rear end:
This is how far from getting it on. Also, the diff is leaking, and missing a bolt. Go figure.
I feel pretty stuck right now, dont really know what to do.
08-19-10, 08:29 AM
#57
Knucklehead
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Super late update but I got it all up and running. Got a video of it running here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5R_DS-hXXZ8
Only things different right now that I can think of is that I switched my FPR from a mallory to holley. Main reason for that is that my mallory had a return line, and I was recommended to not have a return line to eliminate possibility of fuel starvation. Only have about 485 miles on it, coming up on it's first oil change soon. It needs new suspension, it has no give and makes the tires rub on any little dip. Gas light stays on no matter what, but that's just an annoyance really. Oil cooler line needs a couple new brass o-rings, and the carb needs a filter. I've been driving without a filter :o
Fun car so far!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5R_DS-hXXZ8
Only things different right now that I can think of is that I switched my FPR from a mallory to holley. Main reason for that is that my mallory had a return line, and I was recommended to not have a return line to eliminate possibility of fuel starvation. Only have about 485 miles on it, coming up on it's first oil change soon. It needs new suspension, it has no give and makes the tires rub on any little dip. Gas light stays on no matter what, but that's just an annoyance really. Oil cooler line needs a couple new brass o-rings, and the carb needs a filter. I've been driving without a filter :o
Fun car so far!
09-01-10, 09:50 AM
#59
yeah its a rotary
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[/QUOTE]love the build is that a gsl-se front cover with a s4 water pump housing? im in the middle of a build like this and wasnt to sure if i can use a s4 waterpump housing. or is that a gsl-se waterpump housing?
10-07-10, 02:52 PM
#60
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Sorry about the late reply on this. Yes it's the GSL-SE front cover with s4 water pump housing.
Another mini update: Got Tokicko 5-way adjustable shocks, Suspension Technique springs, 16" Enkei's with Nitto Neogens 205/45/16. I like the tires. I had to do some work to bring the wheels back to life and make them look pretty again. Many a curb rash to fill in!
Next steps are going to be DLIDFIS and tuning the carb. Finally got it broken in
Another mini update: Got Tokicko 5-way adjustable shocks, Suspension Technique springs, 16" Enkei's with Nitto Neogens 205/45/16. I like the tires. I had to do some work to bring the wheels back to life and make them look pretty again. Many a curb rash to fill in!
Next steps are going to be DLIDFIS and tuning the carb. Finally got it broken in
02-24-11, 10:47 PM
#62
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I guess I got a new update. I purchased an innovate wideband which I'll be installing in the near future. Also, when I get my tax return I'll probably order some poly bushings, engine and tranny mounts. and I also need to re-seal the diff and get a new rear tranny seal. Putting the body on the back burner til I get everything running right.
02-25-11, 11:24 AM
#64
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do the WB asap! tuning the carburator is stupid simple once you have something better than the butt dyno.
what muffler is that? magnaflow?
what muffler is that? magnaflow?
02-25-11, 05:38 PM
#65
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Thanks for the compliments guys...I was thinking about doing the WB like today, but I dont really drive it often right now so theres no huge rush. Also, yes, it's a magnaflow...I need to re-do my exhaust system - it's loud as ****. I even planned ahead and put a resonator in there to try to keep things quiet and it didn't really work. Oh well, I'll be going bigger on the exhaust, and get a road race header for better flow. I feel like my exhaust is bottle necking my power right now. Well, besides no tune on my carb 
A lot of things I want to do, but gotta take care of my daughter first, and also try to get my career situated. If I do that right I'll be making quite a bit more money and not have to decide whether or not to do one thing or another.
A lot of things I want to do, but gotta take care of my daughter first, and also try to get my career situated. If I do that right I'll be making quite a bit more money and not have to decide whether or not to do one thing or another.
02-26-11, 06:28 PM
#67
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Well I'm gonna check to see if it fits in the bung hole thats already fitted on the RB header. I don't see why it shouldn't. But at some point I so wanna weld a bung in each of the runners so I can fine tune each rotor
02-26-11, 06:52 PM
#69
