BezRx7

Hello everyone! My name is Aaron but everyone calls me Bez and in guess it's about time I start my project build as things are starting to happen and it's reached the point where I could use some advice and pointers. I'm from Trinidad and Tobago in the caribbean, hence the RHD

First off, I have some experience building a few compact classic resto mods in my tiny garage at home. I've done a 77 Ford Capri with a CA18DET, a jdm 89 s13 Silvia with a 400hp CA18DET, and recently a Datsun 1200 sedan with you guessed it, a 300hp CA18DET (s13 coilovers, pathfinder diff, was a lil monster )

I've always wanted a first gen, I sold my Datsun to buy probably the best one locally but the guy changed his mind at the last minute

I bought 2 series 2 RX2's a few years ago before I did the Datsun 1200 but they were so rotten I sold the pair. I always knew I would finally find the first gen I wanted. After seeing about 15 over the last 8 years imbetween all my projects, I was on my way back from seeing another rotten RX2 RE Sedan, and I went to see my friend who bought my old datto and he told me about a red and black first gen with a Mariah wide body. Now I never fancied a widebody first gen, loved the classic lines. But had to go see.

Next morning I skipped work and drove half way across the island to see the car..





It had spent the last 6 years parked in a garage behind a Mk 2 ford escort that was being built, but as renovations took over the guys house it got put out on the street around the corner in the rain!! After about 10 mins haggling and digging through the car I was off to the bank to pay the guy and get the car home that night so it gets out of the rain



She's solid... And only missing a few trim pieces.. And oh!! A motor and tranny



Here is my Staffie x Pit mix Layla that is my assistant on the build



Mounted up the front bumper and all the trim and bits I got in boxes and buckets, it was covered in concrete, had over spray and all kinds of grime from other projects.



So here is a little info on the car.

1982 Mazda RX-7 GSL
SA22C Australian spec model
Originally was 12A Auto
PS, PW, PM, LSD, Disk brakes all around
Leather interior

It came with 3 piece Elipson Wheels
15x8, and 15x10



Lots more to come...

BezRx7

Here is a small walk around I did when I first got the car


Since then I have been order all the missing trim, badges and accessories, I assembled the entire interior and then took it apart a few times.

The headliner is toast, the previous owner had the front seats stored on top the headliner, folded in half *facepalm* - so I gotta find one..

I have also since then sold the wheels to a friend who incidentally traded his gc8 for the first gen is wanted to buy, but he's using the wheels on a Mk 1 widebody ford escort. I am going 5 lug and big brakes etc and want to go with 17's etc. More on that later. Here are some more pics.







Here is what I am hoping it looks like eventually, can't decide on color, but you get the idea of the stance and wheels etc from my photoshop :p

BezRx7

Now I have never built a rotary powered car, and have only spent the last fee years stalking here and Ausarotary for e-learning. But here is my project parts list... I am nit planning to do all at the same time but slowly make progress as I go and upgrade parts along the way (unless I close on selling some property I inherited)


Please feel free to criticize my parts list!! I can use and appreciate the input

13B motor (Large Street Port, S5 TII or S6 RE)
GSL-SE Front Cover & 13b front mounting bar
GSL-SE Oil Pan
GSL-SE Engine Mounts
High output alternator (Taurus?)
Double pulley kit
Factory AC & Power Steering

S5 5 Speed Gearbox
Stage 3 sprung hub clutch & pressure plate
Custom Made Transmission Mount
Turbo II starter
1st Gen Shifter housing
Turbo II Slave Cylinder

Ebay Turbo Exhaust Manifold
BW Airtech S300 with 1.0AR
46mm External Wastegate
GReddy Profec-B
GReddy Blow off valve
Mishimoto Front Mount Intercooler
Black Custom Intercooler Piping
GReddy catch can

Aeromotive 1000HP Fuel Pump
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator
Aeromotive In Line 10 Micron Fuel Filter
255lph fuel pump, Fuel surge tank, Fuel lines and fittings
720cc primary, 1600cc secondary?
Ebay Fuel Rails?

MicroTech LT10 & x4 ignition
MSD 6AL (LS1 coils??)
High Output alternator
Dual sleeve alternator Pulley
2nd Gen Leading Coils with ignitors
2nd Gen Trailing coils with ignitors
2nd Gen Engine Fuse block to replace “Fusible Links”
Racing beat Plug wire kit
Grounding Kit

Aluminum 3 Core Radiator with Electric fan with shroud (Koyo, Fluidline?)
Air Cooled Oil Cooler (mounted under the Radiator)
New Oil Cooler lines
Front bumper 3" ducting (brake & oil cooler)

FC3S Spindles, hubs bearings 5 lug swap
Mazda 626 Lower ball joint
Drilled, slotted & Vented 300mm x 32mm brake rotors
Evo 6-9 Bremdo 4 piston front calipers
Vented rear disc brakes
FC3S Brake booster

T3 lower control arm
T3 adjustable tension rods
1" front Sway bar
Front adjustable Stabilizer bar
Rear stabilizer bar
T3 rear adjustable upper and lower links
Polyurethane front & rear bushing kit

T3 front adjustable camber plates
FC strut tube with Koni adjustable insert
T3 coilover sleeve with 250lb Spring
T3 rear adjustable coilovers with 155lb Spring
17x8 +25ET & 17x10 +25 Wheels
Toyo 215/50ZR17, 255/50ZR17 tires

2008+ Rx8 or Evo 9 Recaro Seats
Boost, oil pressure, fuel pressure, water temp gauges, EGT & Lamba sensors
A/F Monitor/Gauge

Relocate battery to trunk
New headliner
New 7" Crystal Headlights (HID?)
Dual euro horns
Service AC/Blower etc
Re-wire engine bay (hide harness)


As with all projects I expect the list to grow and change. But I want a target and make goals and wanna make sure I got the recipe right if I'm gonna sink all this cash in.

BezRx7

I started on the 5 lug swap, I saw a guy I know who did this and I am in the process of doing it this weekend. Already took down the GSL front suspension. Here are the parts needed.

1) FC TII 5 lug hubs, spindles, brakes
2) FC front shocks and spring (or coilovers)
3) Mazda 626 lower ball joints pressed into the FB lower control arm. (82-89 Mazda 626, I will clarify tomorrow when I take the hubs to the parts store)
4) steel brake lines, pads etc
5) may need to lower the steering knuckle or buy an aftermarket steering arm.

Here are the FC bits that need lots of love!!



I know ppl have been doing his swap locally here for a while as we get lots of jdm knocked down/scrapped cars and some had this and similar swaps.

The guy I went by the check out the swap took it further and was using EVO 9 rotors and Brembo calipers. All he had to do was open up the rotor hole and it all slid onto the fc hub and the caliper bolted up.

This swap is by no means needed, but I have a Mariah kit and want to go 5 lug to get 17x8 and 17x10 wheels and big brakes etc. I'll take some pics of my swap. But here is someone else's. (Not the guy I went by, found it online)



You can see how he modded the spindle where the steering arm bolts up to keep the lca and steering parallel and avoid bump steer and other no no's I did a very similar swap on my old Datsun 1200 using s13 parts. Very easy swap and handled great after.





As for the rear I am torn between pulling the gsl axles, welding up the holes and re-drill them 5x114.3 or use some 4x108 to 5x114.3 adapters but they are 1.25" thick so mean going with a higher offset rear wheel like +35 or even +45ET. I'll need to measure.

Here are the wheels I am looking at, let me know what you think!

BezRx7

Here are a few more pics. My friends garage who now own my dream first gen and my wheels. The wheels are going on the white old escort in the back. His 12a blue 80 gs and the GSL-le (pak plates) with a 500whp series 6

Here is a lil vid of my datsun

craaaazzy

iTrader: (9)

Nice find. Looking forward to the build. Quickly glancing at your parts list, you'll want to add a pre fuel pump filter if that's an external pump.

BezRx7

Thanks craaaazy, I have it listed on the same line as the surge tank as 255lph fuel pump. Thinking an intank walbro to a filter, to the surge tank, to the aeromotive to filter to engine and back. Was also considering a fuel cooler under the car somewhere on the return line Your car has been a tremendous inspiration! Has me thinkin go painting mine white!!

I went and saw a series 6 engine that was in pieces yesterday. Didn't take any pics unfortunately. It was taken apart because it was seized. Turned out the side seals and apex stuck from water etc as the engine just sat for years in the scrap yard. The housings are mint, no scratches or flaking of the chrome plating even near the water seals. BUT the rotors are looking awful!! They were not cleaned but the seals were all stuck down and allot of rust/gunk built up on the faces.

Wondering if to buy the short block and intake, find new rotors, shaft and counter weights to match and try my first rebuild... Or can I just get new rotors?? The rest of the parts all look ok...I'll get a s3 front cover etc. also.

BezRx7

Worked on the FC 5 lug BB swap today

Here it is mounted using the GSL lower control arm and stock lower ball joint.





The stock steering ends bolts up fine. It's only the lower ball joint is too thin and short. The parts place I went by today for the 626 ball joints told me they didn't have the one I wanted but where to go and who would have thought it's right around the corner form my house. Will check them out tomorrow hopefully.





I didn't mount the strut as I am waiting for some new either Bilstien or KONI struts. (All I can find so far are kyb agx and may hold out for better stuff from the get go). More pics.

craaaazzy

iTrader: (9)

Ahh, missed that line. My apologies. U seem like a very competent mechanic...don't be surprised if u get a PM from me with questions.

I'm partial to white. Another white widebody would be cool.

BezRx7

OK!! These are the ball joints needed. They are very common and used for all sorts of applications. But they are listed for the mazda 626 glx model (box says 82-87)

They fit the SA/FB Lower control arm and fit snug as a bug in the FC TII Spindle. Making 5 lug conversion a breeze. Ball joints were $35 each (had cheaper but I asked for the best he had) Going to have them pressed in tomorrow

craaaazzy

iTrader: (9)

I suggest you tack weld those ball joints once you press them in. One of mine eventually came loose.

BezRx7

They guy who told me about it called me today to tell me the same.

I was now thinking of waiting before pressing them in to these old LCA's and may press them into the new T3 lca's. Waiting to hear from them if I can get them without the ball joints or if they will start selling them with the larger ball joint for the fc bb/hub swap

BezRx7

Here are is the new 626 ball joint pressed in the fb lower control arm attached to the fc spindle. Craaaazy you are right. I'll tack weld the ball joints in place. Just to be sure they don't move around.











But I think the better update is that the guys from technotoytuning said they just bought these same ball joints after my email and are testing them on their fb with fc spindles using their adjustable lca's and may offer it as an option!

This would be awesome as a simple upgrade to 5 lug and big brakes. And the 5x114.3 easily redrills to 4x114.3 as it shares a common hole and the fc hubs can easily be redrilled as there is allot of room.

BezRx7

Next on the list for the front suspension



http://store.awrracing.com/products/...-RX%252d7.html

I'll need to get some springs, top hats and camber plates from T3 for these bad boys. Will get the inserts online can't decide on either KONIS, Bilsteins or KYB AGX ( I know what you're thinking, why throw kyb in there with those names - well I've had good experiences with them and if I decide to go with the t3 rear coilover which is more than likely, they'll match. Somewhat :p)

BezRx7

Got this old lump today





Shop is starting it tomorrow to see if I have to rebuild. Fingers crossed!!!

BezRx7

Today went great. The guys that showed upto start the engine are scientist!!! They wired up the engine and got it started in about 2 hours. First they traced all the wiring and plugged up all the necessary sensors etc. Add some oil, run a hose to condemn the missing oil cooler, Turned her over, with the leading plugs out, sounds great, huffing tight.

Ran an injector cleaner and had to tap them to make sure they were not stuck, poured some 2 stroke oil in the intake with some gas, cranked it over for about 2-3 mins on and off. Checking stuff ..

Hooked up the compression tester, ~90-95psi across all four plugs, yes!! Hooked up fuel and after a couple cranks and huge puffs voila!!

Started, ran for about 10 seconds and as we revved it is shot the line we ran for the missing oil cooler off and hosed everyone with oil haha That was enough for me. In my pickup and off we headed home




I have a vid of when they were cranking it with the plugs out. Gotta upload to you tube. Was too much in the mix and excited to even think about video of it starting haha.

Kinda pissed I did get it. Now to start scrapping off all the unnecessary parts I don't need for my swap and clean up, GSL-LE oil pan and front cover install.

The guy "Jax" that did the wiring is coming back to wiring up the car once I have it installed.. He is a WIZ!

placd1

iTrader: (3)

Hey Bez! Good to see a fellow Trini showing some love for the 1st Gens I'm following your build and paying special interest to your big brake installation. Something I'll have to do in the near future for sure.
Good compression on the motor for a foreign used! How much HP are you looking for? You may want to consider pinning that engine if you're shooting for higher than 400 hp.
You'd be surprised to note that parts are actually cheaper and easier to get in Trinidad than they are here in Canada and the US because of the availability of the foreign used market. I'd really like a pair of the RX8 seats for my 83 GSL but they cost an arm and a leg here!

BezRx7

Hey bro! Nice to see a fellow trini too Actually saw a pile of rx8 seats today for $450 usd a pair. Lol, Will prb go that route.

The guy I bought the engine was also surprised at the compression as he kinda thought it wasn't worth the money to try and start it and advised me to just rebuild. The compression test was done after a bit of 2 stroke oil was poured in the intake so I think it's higher than it will actually be in the end. But I'm glad I did it. If I install and it runs like crap, ah well, time for a rebuild, if not. I'll be happy for a few months

I'm not looking to pass 320rwhp'ish. Want something responsive and fun for Autocross/solodex and north coast road drives.

BezRx7

Anyone have an idea what oil pan this is? Is it an early 13b oilpan? GSL-LE or rx2 or something maybe? Never really seen a 12a pan so not sure if this is one.

BezRx7

Got my front cover and oil pan







One step closer!

BezRx7

Some updates. Started cleaning up the engine and harness. Got the techno toy tuning camber plates. Quality parts!! Highly recommended. Removed all accessories from the engine and turbo/manifold.

The plan is to flip the manifold and turbo to move it forward to clear my steering box as the ozzies do down under. Got to drill 2 turbo flange holes out a bit.

Also started labeling the wiring harness and made my ignition harness. Have a rotary and wiring specialist coming to wire harness into car as I have no idea what I am doing as far as that is concerned. But enough of my rambling haha. Pics.

placd1

iTrader: (3)

Loving the progress on your build buddy!My turbo project is progressing as slow as molasses right now. Got everything just sitting in a storage locker and waiting on accumulating funds for the installation.
Your buddy's PAK reminds me of the first RX7 I fell in love with, PAK 3838 a metallic blue FB with a 13b bridgeport that a friend's father owned back in the early 90's. That car was quick, loud and fun to drive (old school Weber carb and free flow exhaust). Good times!!

BezRx7

Ooooook so some updates, some may not like so much and others may rejoice.

Started taking off the Mariah Widebody
I made a decision that it's got to go, the entire front (fenders and bumper) came off in a couple minutes and got my friend Ed (rally car builder/fabricator/mechanic and mr do it all) to come by and give me a quote to have the rear professionally removed.





He's going to sand down the fenders lines and drill out the rivets, then carefully separate the Fibreglass and original sheet metal. I'm hoping to salvage the kit to keep it or maybe sell to try and make back some money. I found some front fenders and the bumper etc. Just need to go get them. As for the rear where it has been rolled/cut. I plan to (maybe cut) cover them all with ZG flares



other update is the engine.. I have decoded to ditch the turbo and go carb'd. Why? Because I've owned a few of turbo cars and the last one, all I wanted to do was take out the turbo engine and go cardbed. I'm not into the drag racing scene again and I guess I must be getting old, but I'm grinning at just the thought of a 51ida and briggy idling in the garage as I get ready for a Sunday drive. Engine been scrapped down even more,



I've purchased a pair of series 4 NA rotors with matching front and rear counter weights. I am guessing I'll get an auto rear counter weight for a lightweight flywheel as I don't think I can use the s5 t2 flywheel with s4 rotors and counter weights (someone please chime in)

I'm leaning towards a Bridgeport, but thinking maybe a large street port may be a good idea in case I decide to turbo the motor later down the road. BUT so far plans have changed to the following

13b S5 TII 4 Port Plates/Housings/E-Shaft
Bridge-ported and rebuilt with Atkins 2 piece apex seals and rotor kit. Mazda gaskets where else needed etc.

S4 NA 9.4:1 Rotors/front and rear counter weights (will use s4 13b auto rear counter with light flywheel and clutch combo)

Racing beat weber Intake manifold
Racing beat 51mm IDA Carb
Racing beat street header
Gilmer pulley kit w/ PS pulley
S5 electronic distributor
S5 TII Coils

Engine being rebuilt and installed by a local rotary shop who rebuilt the cars posted earlier in this thread and some others. He comes very highly recommended. And those who do engines still run, which to me means more than bumping you gum as we say..

I'm not expecting more than about 200hp and really just some something fun and nostalgic and I would have only kept the kit if I went turbo and well just think the turbo motor will take me down a road I've been down before and one I don't intend on return down with this car. So off with the kit and in with a freshly built 13b 4 port NA Carbd Bridggy woohoo I can't wait

Mr rx-7 tt

iTrader: (5)

Stay with a street port and stay away from the Atkins seals, they break too easy. If you are using 2mm go with ALS, 3mm go with stock OEM.

BezRx7

Thanks for the advice!!