gentlemen (and ladies) meet Mr Peepers
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
so dope...
when ever i see a 1st gen with those style mesh wheels. it makes me wanna sell my FC's. but finding a clean 1st gen here is not easy. theya re all beat down and rusted.
when ever i see a 1st gen with those style mesh wheels. it makes me wanna sell my FC's. but finding a clean 1st gen here is not easy. theya re all beat down and rusted.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
mini update.
i've been tweaking and tuning stuff, the carburator is carburating, the ignition is igniting now
its ready to go to get exhaust v2, and dynoed if we have time, supposed to be this weekend, but early may is more likely....
most of the point is to show pics of the driveway exhaust setup. ive got a variety of things i can shove in the tailpipe, and the results have been kind of interesting.
1st pic shows the tailpipe and clamp thing i have (found?) to put stuff in there.
2. the dumpy pipe
3. the RB pre silencer
4. the quiet setup, 3" tailpipe, to 3" dumpy to 3.15" RB to #5
5. its a 3" pipe with a reducer to get it to um 2 1/4?
anyways, the setup like #4 is quiet, like stock, take out the reducer pipe, and volume stays the same but the pitch gets WAY deeper, it shakes the floor
with just the reducer pipe, it doesn't change much, i think the reducer pipe is a similar pitch to the borla that's on the car.
dumpy pipe doesn't do much except make the noise directional (i should retest, we moved)
i've been tweaking and tuning stuff, the carburator is carburating, the ignition is igniting now
its ready to go to get exhaust v2, and dynoed if we have time, supposed to be this weekend, but early may is more likely....
most of the point is to show pics of the driveway exhaust setup. ive got a variety of things i can shove in the tailpipe, and the results have been kind of interesting.
1st pic shows the tailpipe and clamp thing i have (found?) to put stuff in there.
2. the dumpy pipe
3. the RB pre silencer
4. the quiet setup, 3" tailpipe, to 3" dumpy to 3.15" RB to #5
5. its a 3" pipe with a reducer to get it to um 2 1/4?
anyways, the setup like #4 is quiet, like stock, take out the reducer pipe, and volume stays the same but the pitch gets WAY deeper, it shakes the floor
with just the reducer pipe, it doesn't change much, i think the reducer pipe is a similar pitch to the borla that's on the car.
dumpy pipe doesn't do much except make the noise directional (i should retest, we moved)
Sounds like your setup could use the RB universal presilencer added somewhere. Then add the reducer at the tailpipe tip. I think peejay was on to something. I think instead of doing a dumpy, I'll reduce my 3" down to a 2 1/4" dual tip with resonators. It's lying around and available.
When Gavin was driving the GLC a lot, it was always loud and would give him a headache on long drives. I had a variety of things I could set on the little 2" tailpipe. I tried several RE glasspacks and a 3" round 2" core hotdog type glasspack. It seemed that everything knocked the noise down to an acceptable level, even the little 3" hotdog. It didn't matter. The only thing we couldn't try is a reducer because it was already 2", and I didn't have any 1 7/8" or smaller pipe kicking around.
I've got several new ideas for quieting the GLC down, most of which I'll get around to trying in the next couple of months when the new engine goes in.
When Gavin was driving the GLC a lot, it was always loud and would give him a headache on long drives. I had a variety of things I could set on the little 2" tailpipe. I tried several RE glasspacks and a 3" round 2" core hotdog type glasspack. It seemed that everything knocked the noise down to an acceptable level, even the little 3" hotdog. It didn't matter. The only thing we couldn't try is a reducer because it was already 2", and I didn't have any 1 7/8" or smaller pipe kicking around.
I've got several new ideas for quieting the GLC down, most of which I'll get around to trying in the next couple of months when the new engine goes in.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,863
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,863
Likes: 3,245
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Sounds like your setup could use the RB universal presilencer added somewhere. Then add the reducer at the tailpipe tip. I think peejay was on to something. I think instead of doing a dumpy, I'll reduce my 3" down to a 2 1/4" dual tip with resonators. It's lying around and available.
When Gavin was driving the GLC a lot, it was always loud and would give him a headache on long drives. I had a variety of things I could set on the little 2" tailpipe. I tried several RE glasspacks and a 3" round 2" core hotdog type glasspack. It seemed that everything knocked the noise down to an acceptable level, even the little 3" hotdog. It didn't matter. The only thing we couldn't try is a reducer because it was already 2", and I didn't have any 1 7/8" or smaller pipe kicking around.
I've got several new ideas for quieting the GLC down, most of which I'll get around to trying in the next couple of months when the new engine goes in.
When Gavin was driving the GLC a lot, it was always loud and would give him a headache on long drives. I had a variety of things I could set on the little 2" tailpipe. I tried several RE glasspacks and a 3" round 2" core hotdog type glasspack. It seemed that everything knocked the noise down to an acceptable level, even the little 3" hotdog. It didn't matter. The only thing we couldn't try is a reducer because it was already 2", and I didn't have any 1 7/8" or smaller pipe kicking around.
I've got several new ideas for quieting the GLC down, most of which I'll get around to trying in the next couple of months when the new engine goes in.
exhaust 2.0 is designed to be modular that way. initially it keeps the borla, cause i have it and it sounds GOOD, its just a volume issue
Ah I like your long primary. I need to do that in my REPU for max torque. I just hope I can make them long enough.
I know RB recommends a certain length. Is your length going to be right for a PP? I wonder if I can get away with something half as long on a stock port with opened up exhaust ports under the REPU?
The REPU is getting a Camden. I spoke with Atkins and he recommended leaving the intake ports stock, but opening the exhaust a bit because my US-spec '74 housing ports are definitely on the restrictive side. Early open but also early closing timing. 74 sleeves are really small. I bet I could port up to match the sleeve and still be less than T2 closing timing. At least they open at T2 timing. Hmm, I do have one other set of Jspec 70s housings which have GSL-SE port timing, which means you just open them a little sooner, and widen by 2mm on each side, don't touch closing edge, and you've got T2 timing! (I might keep these for a turbo engine though, depending on how well the 74 sleeves might drive a turbo).
Hey what type of glasspacks are those? Think they'll last a while?
I know RB recommends a certain length. Is your length going to be right for a PP? I wonder if I can get away with something half as long on a stock port with opened up exhaust ports under the REPU?
The REPU is getting a Camden. I spoke with Atkins and he recommended leaving the intake ports stock, but opening the exhaust a bit because my US-spec '74 housing ports are definitely on the restrictive side. Early open but also early closing timing. 74 sleeves are really small. I bet I could port up to match the sleeve and still be less than T2 closing timing. At least they open at T2 timing. Hmm, I do have one other set of Jspec 70s housings which have GSL-SE port timing, which means you just open them a little sooner, and widen by 2mm on each side, don't touch closing edge, and you've got T2 timing! (I might keep these for a turbo engine though, depending on how well the 74 sleeves might drive a turbo).
Hey what type of glasspacks are those? Think they'll last a while?
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,863
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Ah I like your long primary. I need to do that in my REPU for max torque. I just hope I can make them long enough.
I know RB recommends a certain length. Is your length going to be right for a PP? I wonder if I can get away with something half as long on a stock port with opened up exhaust ports under the REPU?
The REPU is getting a Camden. I spoke with Atkins and he recommended leaving the intake ports stock, but opening the exhaust a bit because my US-spec '74 housing ports are definitely on the restrictive side. Early open but also early closing timing. 74 sleeves are really small. I bet I could port up to match the sleeve and still be less than T2 closing timing. At least they open at T2 timing. Hmm, I do have one other set of Jspec 70s housings which have GSL-SE port timing, which means you just open them a little sooner, and widen by 2mm on each side, don't touch closing edge, and you've got T2 timing! (I might keep these for a turbo engine though, depending on how well the 74 sleeves might drive a turbo).
Hey what type of glasspacks are those? Think they'll last a while?
I know RB recommends a certain length. Is your length going to be right for a PP? I wonder if I can get away with something half as long on a stock port with opened up exhaust ports under the REPU?
The REPU is getting a Camden. I spoke with Atkins and he recommended leaving the intake ports stock, but opening the exhaust a bit because my US-spec '74 housing ports are definitely on the restrictive side. Early open but also early closing timing. 74 sleeves are really small. I bet I could port up to match the sleeve and still be less than T2 closing timing. At least they open at T2 timing. Hmm, I do have one other set of Jspec 70s housings which have GSL-SE port timing, which means you just open them a little sooner, and widen by 2mm on each side, don't touch closing edge, and you've got T2 timing! (I might keep these for a turbo engine though, depending on how well the 74 sleeves might drive a turbo).
Hey what type of glasspacks are those? Think they'll last a while?
small sleeves are good! the FC/FD ones are too big. also the factory PP engines, actually open later than a stock engine, they close later too. so i'd just match the closing to the t2, and call it good?
the glasspacks are from thrush, 30" long, NON louvered core. not sure how long its gonna last though, they have like 30seconds of run time, and one rattles already
I've often thought about using small sleeves with a turbo, to drive it harder than what's possible with T2 sleeves. The only drawback to 74 housings is the sparkplugs are a little further out than later housings. Would that be a problem? Maybe use a deeper reach spark plug?
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
new pics! these are from the friday before sevenstock
nothing much has changed, i've just been monkeying with the carb... idle is now 14.4:1.. ive got about 20miles on it running around the 'hood, its FUN. tq curve is FLAT
i reset the ride height (after the pics) to be about where the 79 daytona car is, so its higher than these pics
nothing much has changed, i've just been monkeying with the carb... idle is now 14.4:1.. ive got about 20miles on it running around the 'hood, its FUN. tq curve is FLAT
i reset the ride height (after the pics) to be about where the 79 daytona car is, so its higher than these pics
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,863
Likes: 3,245
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Also, did it have some other graphics previously?
It kinda looks like a checkerboard/race design underneath the paint here, on the front right fender.
By the way - It looks GREEEAT!! I love it!
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
miracle is like maaco, or earl schieb! its just single stage black over the original blue.
the checker board my friend did when he built it into a pro7 back in the 90's, he did like an M3 lightweight design, it looked good then, but when i got it in 2005ish it was all checked and faded. its just spray paint on top, but man it doesn't wanna come off either!
the checker board my friend did when he built it into a pro7 back in the 90's, he did like an M3 lightweight design, it looked good then, but when i got it in 2005ish it was all checked and faded. its just spray paint on top, but man it doesn't wanna come off either!
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
ive had good results with scuffing up the paint, with like 400 or 600 grit paper. surface has to be CLEAN too.
its been a really long time since i did a whole car though, the cowl on peepers is spray paint, and around the front markers...
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
started the re-animation process! its going to its first trackday this weekend
plugged in the battery and it fired right up
changing the rear diff water, with oil!
plugged in the battery and it fired right up
changing the rear diff water, with oil!
