When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi! Looks like you got a long project! I also bought an '83 that sat for 12 years, ugh.
You have any luck finding a pcv valve? If so, any direction would be appreciated.
the stock emmissions system doesnt use a PCV but does have a "Purge Valve" for the same purpose. Is that what you're talking about?
Thank you for the diagram! Not really sure! Trying to figure out why my '83 automatic tran RX7 won't stay running, Nikki 4bbl with rat's nest still installed. thought I'd read one item to check was PCV. Of course, I couldn't find it anywhere.
Know if a bad purge valve would cause intermittent starting and dying?
I don't think the purge valve would cause the symptoms you're having. The purge valve (pcv on a piston engine) just lets the oil/water/fuel vapors get sucked out of the bottom of the block.
If it was stuck open it would act like a very, very minor vac leak, but prolly not enough to give vac-leak issues. If it was stuck shut it would just cause condensation in the oil/ crank case... resulting in "lung- butter", which is snotty- looking oil in the oil fill tube.
My engine(s) has the rats nest deleted and I just run the crank vent to the air filter, so it's constantly venting those vapors. If it makes any difference in my idle settings it's too minor to notice, .... so I'm 99.9% sure this isn't your problem.
Done a bunch of rebuild on a “barn” find. 83 rx7 automatic, sat in garage for 12 years.
Can get it to run for 5-10 minutes before it just dies. Sometimes it will restart immediately and run 10-30 seconds, other times it won’t start for a day or two.
Changed gas tank, fuel filter, fuel pump, ignition coil, distributor cap, plugs, wires, rebuilt carb, reset floats, added inline filter before fuel in banjo bolt, charcoal canister not clogged, replaced most fuel lines and in process of replacing key vacuum hoses.
Anything I'm missing other than distributor rotor, pressure check radiator, timing check and ignition switch??
Time for a little update in here, Kinda forgot I had this thread :O The car is done with rust etc. and shipped to the paintjob. Thats really a huge step! No I can get everything pre assembled for the front end and start to focus on the engine.
The front suspension is coming together okay, I seems to need the outer Tierod ends, did anybody find any other source for these ? I'm wondering if something from a newer Mazda would fit since the RX-7 parts is no where to be found in EU. I changed all the bushing in the front end to Energy Urethane. there was no instruction in how to turn the inner ones, anybody know how to ? As long as they are similar in each side I reckon it would be fine.
Before.
I Bought the car like this, in alot of boxes and alot of rust.
Ongoing
Progress.... Ready for paint. After alot of grinding and painting the Front suspension is ready for the car
Engine: I decided on a Full bridge! Why not right? If not I would regret it after 2 month of driving and then have to pull the engine apart again. I will give it a go with a modded NIKKI, but I know Ideally (Maybe necessary) an IDA or Injection system would be needed. I also raised the I.D of the oilgalleys to the main bearings and opened up the flow to and from the oilpump. I think I leave the oilsystem with these mods. The Bypasse of the Dowel and bypass of the front housing seems a bit overkill for my setup. Thining about relieving the E-Shaft oil galleys for better flow though.
Still a bit in doubt on the porting of the Exhaust ports for now...
Two defect housing and two good ones, the good ones have just a tiny exhaust though. Mark up
Ready for Holes No way back Done ? Or just some small touch up, but I think I will do all four to this stage and then match them all fully.
Small update? Anyway, Next up is Continue with the porting, refurbish the front brake calibers, and I also need to finish one front fender to be ready for paint.
@Hummel206
The tie rod ends are available from the common USA RX-7 suppliers like Atkin's Rotary, Mazdatrix, PartsGeek, RockAuto, and eBay. I don't know what is involved with shipping to Europe, but they've easy to get here. Look for '79-85 tie rod ends. I think in some parts of the world '85 shows the first FC car (second generation) so I usually look for '79-84 parts.
You asked about changing the inner bushings on your suspension. Which bushings are you talking about? On the suspension arm pivot point, or the sway bar mounting points?
@Hummel206
The tie rod ends are available from the common USA RX-7 suppliers like Atkin's Rotary, Mazdatrix, PartsGeek, RockAuto, and eBay. I don't know what is involved with shipping to Europe, but they've easy to get here. Look for '79-85 tie rod ends. I think in some parts of the world '85 shows the first FC car (second generation) so I usually look for '79-84 parts.
You asked about changing the inner bushings on your suspension. Which bushings are you talking about? On the suspension arm pivot point, or the sway bar mounting points?
The inner bushing I meant the suspension arm pivot point. I'm not sure if these can be fitted wrongly ?
I found the Tie rods end in UK as well, I will order them there thanks.
Okay I finished the Ports, they are all equal, runners are lightly grinded to match and the "inner" wall towards the bridge is polished to forced the air to turn "in theory".
Next up is the Housings, I thinking on TII exhaust port, but only opening up the port on top so closing later. And also I need to "Eyebrow" the housings to match the Bridge. Below is a test run on a defect housing. What do you think ?
Suspension Bushings:
I used a bearing-puller and an old socket to push the old ones out. I probably used it to install the new ones, but can't remember.
The new polly ones are shaped like the stock ones (big on one end, small on the other) but have a polly ring that goes on the skinny end after you insert them. I put the new ones in just like the old... fat ends towards the front of the car.
Awesome thanks mate! I got my bushing in with the fat end forwards.
Small update. Ported the exhaust to TII specs. And found these Gas recirkulating pipes ? How can I block them ? I am a bit Not fan of welding on the housings, but is that the only solution ?
The body is back from the Paint shop I love the fresh white on it, altough it is hard to see the full picture without fenders, hood and etc.
I'm jumping straight in and wanna start with questions to all you Mazda experts. My original plan was to do a "quick" project, but I'm diging in to every corner of this car. I found these thing under the dash board, what are they for ? I wanna try to simplify things a bit, I'm not planning on using De-icing system, OMP system is also removed, but what does these boxes control ?
Ohh also painted the irons, gonna have them re surfaced next week and then engine is ready fir assembly. Box 1 Relay Check Lamp, for ? And black box under? Looks like a buzzer? May I guess on Oil level ? Fresh paint And Engine bay, hopefully I can keep it clean
i'm not sure what that first box is, but the second one i think is what it says it looks for continuity in the brake light circuit, and if there is a bulb, turns on a light
the third thing is the CPU (and horn relay), it does things like the turn signal flasher, horn, etc
what you do with it depends on how street legal you need it, and if you feel like re using those, or making new
Hi Guys. Thanks for the feedback on the Boxes and color! I love it!
Update: I got the engine together, first time ever,I didn't even disassemble it my self, but a got preparation got my through without any major issues, bigest problem was one of the apex corner pieces slip from the glue and "fly" away, managed to find it and glue it again without any major issues though. Used Hylomar for both O-rings and silicone for the Legs, and Vaseline on all Rotor seals and side etc. Next up is collecting tools for Flywheel installation and find a "new" oil pump sprocket then front canbe put together.
On the body I'm trying to figured out the wiring, got rear light, interior light, head light, headlight retractors, wiper, tank meter, and voltage meter working, and a hole lot of connectors in the engine bay that I don't know where to mount yet, I hope alot of it is engine related.
Tank and fuel lines together with complete rear end and brake assembled as well, front is loosely together, this will be fully assembled next and I will try to bleed the brakes and see if everything is leak free. I can't find the bracket for the proportional valve right know, maybe I need to fabricate something
any way, Love all the time with this car and can't wait to hear it run!!
Irons Resurfaced. Two holes in the Right side of the firewall, no idea what they are for ? New bearings Small step forward Done.
First box that is slightly rusty with the Mitsubishi logo is the emission control box. If you check out foxed.ca as mentioned earlier the solenoids and sensors outside of gauge sender sensors trace back to that box.
Oh bummer! Next job of putting together the front housing started badly. I haven't given these Trust bearings any thougths at all, never thought these would be worn down, but clearly they are toasted, I hopefully got a guy locally that have some spare plates and bearings, otherwise I would have to order from US or AUS, bearings is available locally but not plates.
I wonder what could have caused this ? The rest of the engine looked perfect, bearings etc. But these is clearly done, end play is 0.19mm.
My first thought was a clutch issue, or input shaft issue, applying force onto the trust bearing constantly ?
I love the fresh white on it, altough it is hard to see the full picture without fenders, hood and etc. 
