JIMMY54

iTrader: (2)

As far as performance figures, who knows until it goes down the track, the cage adds quite abit of weight... which I'm worried about.

Here are some updated pictures.... The intercooler pipes are finally in place I just have to get some more clamps and I'm good. Need a air filter and some odd's and ends.

This weekend I hope to install the other door and wire that up, work on getting the interior back on order.

JIMMY54

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Directfreak

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Damn Jimmy - That looks impressive!!

No Pre-silencer or mid muffler, it's gonna be loud!

I like the wire tucking going on in the fenders. Very Nicely done.
Get some better pics of that detail.

Everything looks so fresh and new, I am jealous! I see you guys don't believe
in mandrel bends. It's almost all hard pipes for your intercooler and exhaust.
That's alot of love and labor right there.

You may have posted it before, but is that an e-brake off the rear driveshaft?

JIMMY54

iTrader: (2)

LOL yeah I'm stubborn when it comes to mendrel bends...

As for the wiring, it turned out pretty good but it took longer than I expected extending 100's of wires.... I'll get some close ups for you on my next update.

Yes the E-brake runs off the driveshaft, the brake setup didn't have any parking brake components so I figured, this would be the easiest way besides a piece of 2x4 under the tire! LOL

estevan62274

iTrader: (32)

Nice build! Your car is done extremely well!

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Diggin' on the precision... but jealousy forces me to declare that using an actual lift is just flat-out cheating.

brandon davis

iTrader: (3)

very very nice work, extreme attention to detail- the FRAM oil filter?? WIX or mazda till death do us part. Gimme your address and ill send you one for free for all your love and labor.......really!

Naegleria_Fowleri

Absolutely gorgeous car, and the amount of detail that has been put into this car is astounding, to say the least. I wish I had the potential to be able to do this extensive work (not to mention the money behind the project as well). Threads like this make me want to try even harder to get my FB out of my garage and back onto the road.

JIMMY54

iTrader: (2)

You guys are awesome...

DivinDriver.... That was funny, I got that lift used, but it was money well spent! You should put one at home! It'll pay for itself...! Especially in sunny california you can have it in your backyard! LOL

BrandonDavies... Thank you very much for the offer, but I had a few frams left sitting on the shelf. BUT for you, I will get a mazda filter, before this car see's the road. I know fram sucks but who make mazda filters? They are sooo small.

Homobile rx8.... You just have to do what you can, you need lots of time and a place to work. Tools like a welder are essential..... I learned by building my first rx7 and whatever I didn't like I figure I better do it now that have to do it over later. But most of my time and money were spent on items that the car really didn't need.

I knew that I couldn't drive the car for atleast 2 years, because this is my 3rd build... and these things take forever. I knew that i could just make a list and follow it at a steady pace.

Planning is takes longer than actually getting things done. And what really cost the most was adding the brakes and the turbo. The fact that I live in Canada means I'm paying quite a bit because of crazy shipping costs and currency.

For example the 700 dollar roll cage cost me 1300 bucks when it got to my door...
If I lived in the usa I'd be loving it, jegs, summit a phone call away... Re-speed just down the street, LOL

Looking back I could have bought a new car with the money spent on this, But I have the same problem as everyone else on this site! FirstGen fever.

Naegleria_Fowleri

Yeah, my FB has been down for over around a year and a half now. Maybe even longer. I've been doing a lot of minor things to the body to get it back in good shape physically, I've rebuilt the engine (12A), but decided that since it was down for as long as it has been, I may as well just keep it down and do an engine swap I really want in it (13B-RE). The problem is that I've just not really got the work area to really do as extensive work as what you're doing now.

I've also been through several moves throughout the years which has drawn my finances much shorter, and I'm saving up currently for another move, a much larger one, to get away from the snow of winters.

Either way, third build or 15th, the effort placed into your car is amazing, and admirable. I really hope to still be around here when the car comes back to life. Hopefully I'll be able to have mine up and running by then as well.

JIMMY54

iTrader: (2)

Naegleria_Fowleri...

You have to do, what you gotta do... You can get your car running and in the mean time enjoy while you piece together all the parts you need for your swap.

You could just turbo your 12a since you've rebuilt it... I mean I would... RotaryShack has everything you need and the advice to help you through it. Your engine bay would be clean because of the lack of wires and harnesses... it'd be something different. Powerwise when you have 190 and up horsepower in a first gen thats when they are loads of fun!

my 2 cents

Naegleria_Fowleri

The housings I used were far from good enough to trust, otherwise I would have. That was the original plan as to why I was going to rebuild the engine, but once I got the engine apart I saw the inside. I figured it would still be a good opportunity to get a rebuild under my belt and see exactly how much I was getting myself into with rebuilding rotaries (I'd helped, but never done the whole thing).

Regardless, this thread is about your car and not mine. Sorry for the thread jacking.

openshot

are you puting the wing back on and your body kit? cant wait intill spring then maybe i can bring my 7 down.

dillsrotary

Great looking car, congrats on the build.

JIMMY54

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dj55b

iTrader: (2)

Jimmy, when I come down, I'm bringing my camera with me to get you some better quality shots! Will you be there on friday by anychance?

BlackWorksInc

Sorry to bring this up again, but do you have any pictures of that bitchin Parking Brake?

Maybe some parts numbers and how well it works? I think that right there is a very unique way to do it and a nice conversation piece. lol

JIMMY54

iTrader: (2)

dj55b...

I'll be there friday after 6pm, pm me thursday if you decide to come...

Demonspawn67...

The way I put it together...
- cut old E-brake cable and save the end that connects to the e-brake handle.
- I used that end piece drilled it and bought new aircraft cable and welded them together so I could keep that adjuster working just like stock.
-next I used Stainless steel brakeline to feed that cable though and mounted it to the body.
- I welded up a mounting bracket to the pumpkin on the diff.
-the caliper is a carlisle Go-cart caliper which can be found anywhere... I bought mine off ebay. 60 bucks with pads and polished.
-the drilled go-cart disc is from www.bicknellracingproducts.com I think it's a 6in disc. 50 bucks. (you'll need the calalog to find it it has a picture of it, but it's not listed on the website)

So far it works fine, to keep the car stopped on a hill, but I didn't build it strong enough to lock up the wheels while moving.

I'll get some close up shots of the system, possibly this weekend.

JIMMY54

iTrader: (2)

And update the car ran today, but really rough. It seems to have the plugs fouled pretty bad. It ran for 20 minutes, hopefully tomorrow, I'll have time to sort it out and set timing.

Turbo has an oil leak which made a mess, the feed needs to be tightened up but overall it's coming along.

openshot

any more updates?

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

+1 on an update. I'm digging your ride.

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

btw Looks like your a desent welder, and obviously have gas shielded or you couldn't of done those intercooler piping. try making your own cage out of cromalloy steel. It will cut alot of that weight down and its stronger than mild steel. I use to weld stockcar chassies and frames. whole rollcage/chassie they only weighed about 150 pounds with alot more steel than your needing. you could do an 8 point and it will only be about 30 or 40 pounds tops. you could just copy the cage you have, and It will be about half the weight.

JIMMY54

iTrader: (2)

jimxed4dub...

The cage is mild steel but it meets the scca rule book from autopower, I wanted a cromalloy cage like you mentioned but around here cage builders are busy with 8 month waiting periods... I actually waited 1 year and I had to give up and buy this prefabbed one. I kept being told 2 more weeks and nothing ever came of it. I had the car stripped on a dolly to set the frame on a jig waiting.

I welded all the steel on the car using a gas shielded welder but I tried welding the aluminum but no go! I just can't do it. All the aluminum was sent out for welding.

Maybe one day I'll have a copy done of my cage in cromalloy

JIMMY54

iTrader: (2)

Update on car....

Well got the running WAYYY better, but I ended up having to remove the rats nest on my car, those vacuum switches were stuck on vent so basically I had a huge vacuum leak. I know that on the gsl-se it's not easy to remove however I removed it all.

I'll explain the rats nest for the gsl-se, the green and orange connectors control the stock fuel pressure regulator and the vacuum advance on the distributor. WELL in my case I have a aftermarket fuel regulator and I locked my distributor so I did't need them there!! And I removed the avc and BAC valves so basically all that rats nest business is gone. It did clean up the engine quite a bit.

But I must say before my car had working 6-ports, MSD w/direct fire & 14lb flywheel and the vacuum controlled distributor it would rev up quick from idle to 4,000 rpm.

Now without the 6 ports and with a locked distributor you can tell that it doesn't rev up as quick in the 1000 to 4000 rpm.

Maybe later I'll try and find another lower intake manifold and try to get the actuators to work with the turbo

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

I plan on buying a welder and a pipebender soon soon if you give me the dimentions of everything. I can weld it up chrommally for you. for cheap and I'll drive it to the boarder, of washington and BC and you could have someone from BC meet me and go from there to help with the shipping charges.

but you can do it Welding chromalloy is alot easyer than aluminum. you need solid or hard wire samething. and don't quote me its been awhile a 75/25 argon/co2 and you run down not up. its out of position welding and is easy as flat if not easyer. penitrates good. you also so go back and forth ossolation not side to side or circles. it welds to mild steel just fine. let me see if I can find my lincolin handbook and I'll tell you for sure on the gas and wire to use. .023 wire is the size.

A tip for aluminum wire feed. best to do with a spool gun. turn up the heat and wire speed and spray it in. its loud and poppy but comes out clean. you also need the right sheilding gas (75/25 argon/helium). I'll post that also.