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85 SE radiator resurrection

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Old 05-13-17, 09:43 PM
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I'm slow. Ok dupli as is in "duplicate " ..color as in original paint that is oe look but a high temp for the application (?)

the orange/red silicone ...is it a standard I can get at a zone, o Reilly or advance. ?Sorry I'm new at this but I'm learning ..
Old 05-13-17, 09:43 PM
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See my above post about radiator...if you have to buy a replacement,then you have to. My opinion as stated in last post,oe radiator is very good quality. A reputable radiator shop should be able to disassemble,evaluate,clean,resolder,flow test and repaint it. You now have a 100% new radiator and peace of mind that goes with it. My first choice over a relacement. 180 degree bypass type t-stat is good. Kansas Citys' water pump advice is sound,i like to use even less rtv,just enough of a smear to show some color,just enogh to hold gasket in place for assembly. This is one of those situations where more is not better.
Old 05-13-17, 09:48 PM
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You can get the hi temp rtv at pretty much any parts store. If you want to paint the radiator yourself,after reconditioning,mention it to guy at rad shop. Certainly he'll accomodate you. Yes on the duplicolor hi temp paint.
Old 05-13-17, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by GSLSEforme
See my above post about radiator...if you have to buy a replacement,then you have to. My opinion as stated in last post,oe radiator is very good quality. A reputable radiator shop should be able to disassemble,evaluate,clean,resolder,flow test and repaint it. You now have a 100% new radiator and peace of mind that goes with it. My first choice over a relacement. 180 degree bypass type t-stat is good. Kansas Citys' water pump advice is sound,i like to use even less rtv,just enough of a smear to show some color,just enogh to hold gasket in place for assembly. This is one of those situations where more is not better.
check. I totally get it. What smears out smears in. Contaminated coolant. I really think my rad will get it done. As for the water pump it's plain to me it has to be done. I've been fortunate that this car had been well taken care of but I don't want to push it. 120k on a pump spells .. replacement.
Old 05-13-17, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by tool and die guy
I've read threads that warn to be careful of certain water pumps that have different geometry I.e. Bad flow characteristics. Rock auto a good source for a water pump ?or should I investigate a Mazda oem! If they even still sell one. After all it's an 85 SE.
May have been one of threads i posted in. I believe the cast iron impeller like oe flows best(strictly my opinion,not shared by others). I had a Mazda new replacement pump develop a squeaky bearing with less than 5k miles on it,but to be fair,in that same timeframe had a fan clutch lock up which likely had an effect on the premature wear. Pump still worked,no leaks but had a squeak at idle that bugged me til i replaced it...with another. Hasn't been many miles but squeak is gone. Mazda still sells the oe pump.
Old 05-14-17, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by GSLSEforme
May have been one of threads i posted in. I believe the cast iron impeller like oe flows best(strictly my opinion,not shared by others). I had a Mazda new replacement pump develop a squeaky bearing with less than 5k miles on it,but to be fair,in that same timeframe had a fan clutch lock up which likely had an effect on the premature wear. Pump still worked,no leaks but had a squeak at idle that bugged me til i replaced it...with another. Hasn't been many miles but squeak is gone. Mazda still sells the oe pump.
Mike, maybe that was you because that's the story I sort of remember. I haven't wrenched all these decades but it didn't keep me from gathering knowledge. My dad always told me buy oem when ever possible. Btw where are you located? I'm in Lillington NC.
Old 05-14-17, 07:51 AM
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Mike one more thing. I can't imagine many people alive that worked on more rx7's than yourself. Working as a mechanic in a Mazda Dealer during the 80's speaks for itself. We only talked a while but what were you driving at the show? Maybe I saw it!?
Old 05-14-17, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by tool and die guy
Mike, maybe that was you because that's the story I sort of remember. I haven't wrenched all these decades but it didn't keep me from gathering knowledge. My dad always told me buy oem when ever possible. Btw where are you located? I'm in Lillington NC.
Paul,i'm in Rising Sun Maryland. In northeastern corner of state,can see Pa. from my kitchen window & about 12 miles to Delaware state line. To give some perspective on distance,took about 12 hours to get to DGRR.

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Old 05-14-17, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by GSLSEforme
Paul,the oe radiator is well made and is very effective at keeping the engine cool. If yours is not corroded,consider having it professionally gone through. Mine at 137k is original,though in late 90s i had it to my friends' rad shop where he pulled it apart,cleaned and flushed the core and soldered all back together,tested and painted. He gave it a 100% bill of health. There were no leaks,i pulled it to replace oil cooler ruined by a bird strike & since it was out... now a good time to look at your oil cooler mounts,the rubber part in particular. If one of these fails,the cooler drops down a bit and rubs on sway bar til it rubs a hole in it-seen it on a couple SE cars. While on subject of oil cooler, the foam seal that goes on bottom radiator/oil cooler area gets a little rotted on some cars. I have used the foam intended for sealing window air conditioner units successfully on several cars. This seals against belly pan so all air coming in the front of car at grille opening goes thru radiator/oil cooler instead of around it
wow this post almost got by me.. that's a mouthful. I indeed noticed the dried out foam under the radiator. For its age I was surprised at just how much was still intact and holding together w a small amount of pliability. I know exactly what A/c foam you're talking about. It makes perfect sense now what its purpose is. I was just going leave it out but I get the air flow through vs around design. As for oil cooler back at 110k (now 120k) my buddy Kenny removed the oil cooler because it was leaking around the stem return port. It had been over tightened by an idiot (long story) my brother knew and I took it to a place that dipped/ cleaned etc and then to an old timer welder that welded the neck crack and made it look new again. It has its own thermostat valve system in it. I thought it was pretty trick for 85. I'll look at those mounts for sure!! Great information you're feeding me!!
Old 05-14-17, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by tool and die guy
Mike one more thing. I can't imagine many people alive that worked on more rx7's than yourself. Working as a mechanic in a Mazda Dealer during the 80's speaks for itself. We only talked a while but what were you driving at the show? Maybe I saw it!?
Paul,80's was a long time ago. Worked on entire Mazda lineup,lots of RXs as a line tech,team leader,then shop foreman. Owner of dealership was a rotary fanatic who campaigned our REPU parts delivery truck at local dragstrip. My SE at the time of DGRR was about to get its first color coat at my friend's body/paint shop. I had hoped to bring it to my 1st DGRR but timeline was not in my favor. I'm a big fan of doing it right,once. Don't like to rush and get results that are less than expected,also wrestling with health issues and lastly,an almost 3 month ordeal with insurance company trying to prevent them totaling and then finally paying for repairs from an incident that happened nearly a year ago. While this was going on the car just sat,had recently invested quite a bit of money and time in it and did not want to proceed if there was a chance i'd lose the car. You can go back to last May and find my"Well,it finally happened" thread if interested in the whole story. Couple cell phone pics..
Attached Thumbnails 85 SE radiator resurrection-img_1021.jpg   85 SE radiator resurrection-img_1022.jpg   85 SE radiator resurrection-img_1026.jpg   85 SE radiator resurrection-img_1029.jpg   85 SE radiator resurrection-img_1031.jpg  

85 SE radiator resurrection-img_1537.jpg   85 SE radiator resurrection-img_1538.jpg   85 SE radiator resurrection-img_1545.jpg   85 SE radiator resurrection-img_1575.jpg  

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Old 05-14-17, 09:30 AM
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So...drove my daily driver to DGRR,a sleeper,90 Buick Regal with recently reworked suspension,brakes with a couple hundred pounds of tools and stuff in the trunk...on the dragon,lol. The dragon part wasn't intentional,i drove to Addicted Performance Friday for their open house,plugged address into my phone and the dragon was part of the route. For what it is,the car accorded itself pretty well. Always wanted to drive the dragon in my RX,never thought my 1st time would be in the Buick,was enjoyable but really can't wait to run it in the SE. Next year hopefully. P.S. told my buddy about it,we had a good laugh. Couple days later he texted me a pic he pulled off the internet of me/and car on the dragon. Look on Killboy website for 4/28/17,yep there's the old guy in the Buick cutting corners,lol.

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Old 05-14-17, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by GSLSEforme
So...drove my daily driver to DGRR,a sleeper,90 Buick Regal with recently reworked suspension,brakes with a couple hundred pounds of tools and stuff in the trunk...on the dragon,lol. The dragon part wasn't intentional,i drove to Addicted Performance Friday for their open house,plugged address into my phone and the dragon was part of the route. For what it is,the car accorded itself pretty well. Always wanted to drive the dragon in my RX,never thought my 1st time would be in the Buick,was enjoyable but really can't wait to run it in the SE. Next year hopefully. P.S. told my buddy about it,we had a good laugh. Couple days later he texted me a pic he pulled off the internet of me/and car on the dragon. Look on Killboy website for 4/28/17,yep there's the old guy in the Buick cutting corners,lol.
oh that's real funny.. you CANT bring rx7 and get to drive the dragon in a Buick.. I BRING rx7 and never make it to the dragon!! I have to ask..? What is the non stock coil pack you got going there? Looks like one coil is a double and a single.(?) funny coil story.. two years ago Kenny discovered that years earlier the wrong coil was installed on mine. A standard coil if you will.. he researched and figured out that the proper coil for the SE changes from 9 volts to 12 volts where as the one on my car did not. Also a standard coil isn't made to handle the highest revs..I drove it that way for years. The difference was instantly noticeable.
Old 05-14-17, 12:25 PM
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Awesome Story!!! I just read thru the entire thread!!! I actually spoke to you at Fontana Dam (the blue rx3 guy). So sorry you had a tough time!! i wish i would have known... I had tools and i also had my truck and car trailer!! could have atleast saved you the roll back bill... hind site i guess.
so glad your enjoying that Award Winning SE!! 2nd place feels pretty good!!! I also won 2nd place in my class, i totally understand the feeling and the pride!! Im only sorry i wasnt around to help you when you were having troubles.
Old 05-14-17, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 73rx313b
Awesome Story!!! I just read thru the entire thread!!! I actually spoke to you at Fontana Dam (the blue rx3 guy). So sorry you had a tough time!! i wish i would have known... I had tools and i also had my truck and car trailer!! could have atleast saved you the roll back bill... hind site i guess.
so glad your enjoying that Award Winning SE!! 2nd place feels pretty good!!! I also won 2nd place in my class, i totally understand the feeling and the pride!! Im only sorry i wasnt around to help you when you were having troubles.
was it Nick(?) yes I have pics of yours. As it turns out the rollback cost us $250.00 (to travel 5 miles ugh) but my insurance covered the whole thing. You're the second one behind mind Mike who had everything we needed. It worked out better since it finally got me off the idea that I can't wrench my own.! In hindsight it could've been better but I don't know how. Congratulations on 2nd place!!! Well deserved!!
Old 05-14-17, 12:46 PM
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This is nicks!! Absolute beauty!!

Old 05-14-17, 02:00 PM
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Mike. The manual says I have to remove the air pump. Doesn't look that way to me. The belt yes. The drive pulley yes, fan hub assembly yes..I'm wondering if I will need a press or bearing puller to get that pulley off the water pump shaft(?)
Old 05-14-17, 02:46 PM
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Well I'm learning the hard way as usual. I just realized the alternator has to be removed to get to the coolant hose that feeds from below the water inlet at tstat to the over around and to the throttle body area. That's a nice little surprise..
Old 05-14-17, 04:40 PM
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Water pump,pulleys,etc

Paul,the fan hub is held to pump snout by 4 bolts you see after you remove 4 nuts that hold fan clutch. Fan adapter & pulley have been on pump since Japan 32+ yrs ago & likely stuck. Lightly tap water pump pulley with plastic hammer or rubber mallet,you should see a gap open up between adapter and pulley. Spray a bit of rust penetrant into the gap,let it sit for a minute or so then tap & wiggle the pulley/adapter off. The two are likely corroded to each other and pump snout,you'll get them off.
Old 05-14-17, 04:47 PM
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OEM is always best if you can get and afford it. Not sure of availability of the OEM water pump.

Looks like mazda trix carriers the OEM water pump. All 1975-1985 12A/13B water pumps are the same. Part number 15-130C-N232 $80.90

RockAuto is a good supplier. They carry all kinds of different brands. Their shipping can be high.

Last edited by KansasCityREPU; 05-14-17 at 04:50 PM.
Old 05-14-17, 04:57 PM
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Alternator removal?

If you're replacing pump/t-stat no need to remove alternator,unless you're replacing that hose you're speaking of. You will have to remove the alt tensioner bracket. You can remove the bolts/nuts on water pump(8?) & tap water pump hub to break seal of pump to front cover. Be certain if any gasket material left on front cover,t-stat neck and housing you remove it. Single edge razor blade works well. Resist the urge to sand or grind gasket off with 3M discs or the like,they'll clean the gasket off but can very quickly damage sealing surfaces. One last thing,if you feel you need to remove alternator,disconnect negative battery terminal and position cable such that it can't touch battery post while you have things apart. This one little step may not seem obvious but prevents misery and unnecessary repair expenses. Typing this from my phone,will send you a pm when get a few minutes.
Old 05-14-17, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by tool and die guy
I'm slow. Ok dupli as is in "duplicate " ..color as in original paint that is oe look but a high temp for the application (?)

the orange/red silicone ...is it a standard I can get at a zone, o Reilly or advance. ?Sorry I'm new at this but I'm learning ..
Dupli-Color is a paint brand. It can be found at most auto part stores.

The red silicon I use is Pematex brand I believe. Found at Wal-Mart and auto part stores.
Old 05-14-17, 07:21 PM
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Well it finally happened

Mike I read the whole thing. So you still didn't have your car ready for DGRR. You've waited a long time for that much damage to be repaired.
Old 05-14-17, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by KansasCityREPU
Dupli-Color is a paint brand. It can be found at most auto part stores.

The red silicon I use is Pematex brand I believe. Found at Wal-Mart and auto part stores.
Kansas!! Much thanks. Your info if very helpful. Mazdatrix may be the place. Just paid 146.00 for all the water hoses I needed. I already had the upper lower rad hoses. I'm hoping the entire wp kit includes gaskets. I'd think it does.
Old 05-14-17, 07:41 PM
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yes sir!!

Originally Posted by tool and die guy
This is nicks!! Absolute beauty!!

It is Nick... great memory you have there!! thanks for the pics!! love seeing pics of ol blue... lol
Old 05-14-17, 08:00 PM
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Paul,wrestling with this phone...composed a reply to your pm,don't know what happened. Will get back to you on desktop when get home sometime tomorrow.8



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