Thanks! Looks like I won't have to mess with the bag at all.

Gonna find some vinegar to pour into my fuel tank as it is all rusted inside. Sorry for the lack of photos - figured it would be a quick job. I'll try to take a few more from now on.

 

Hi all,

Quick update on the project - Progress has stagnated due to me needing a few parts, but I have still been diagnosing the car and trying to research what I need to do.

I figured out that the gas tank I had was not rusted. It is in pretty pristine condition from what I can see. I may give it a little wash with some solvent or something as the fuel in there was very old. There was no fuel going to the engine when I tried to crank it, which is odd. I tested the fuel pump to see if it worked, and the displacement was acceptable. I will look into the injectors, but I doubt they are the problem.




I was also looking inside the intake manifold with a borescope. I could not get a good look, but the engine has a wooshing sound when I turn it over. That is a good sign of compression. From the small area I could look at, the inside of the engine looks very nice.



However, while taking the manifold off, I lost a little piece which actuated the metering oil pump connecting rod, and I bent the connecting rod itself. I am currently trying to see if I can source a replacement, but I doubt I will be able to do so. Any advice in how I should go about it is appreciated. Also, the oil pump is a source of a leak, so I will have to also replace that.





I hope to try and get this all fixed soon. I have never fixed a car that hasn't ran before, and honestly it is becoming a little bit exhausting fixing a problem only to find 2 more, especially on an old car which has hard-to-find parts.

Any suggestions on where to find parts and how to fix the car is appreciated.

 

Post a "WTB" ad in the marketplace, I'm sure you'll get some replies.

What you're going through is typical of an older car, just be glad you're finding and fixing them now rather than later. It'll all be worth it when you get the car running and you start to have fun in it!

 

Hey all,

Working on the car again. Seems like I've found a pretty simple solution to my connecting rod woes - deleting the OMP. Since I believe the method to control the OMP is mechanical on the GSL-SE, I won't have to mess with the ECU and all that. I've ordered a plate from Atkins Rotary and already gotten rid of the oil injectors. I think I'll have to cap some vacuum lines on the manifold, but it shouldn't be too difficult. Fuel injectors came out when accessing the area, and their respective O-rings crumbled in my hands.


Above: Oil injectors in their original placements. Might have to clean the fuel injectors(?)

However, while inspecting the engine area, I also found that there was a rusted line that had snapped off before I had started working on the car. Any fixes for this? Don't know where to start with this one.



Above: Pictures of the line and the port on the manifold. Unsure what this may be or how to fix it. I'll have to check the FSM.

I also replaced the starter since the old one gave out. Will keep it in case I want to learn how to rebuild a starter.



I was also replacing the fuel pump, but one of the connectors was damaged and gave out. I have a crimping kit and some connectors so this will be an easy fix.


I still need to get a gasket for the gas tank. When the OMP plate and the gas tank gasket arrives, I'll try to start up the car and check for spark. Hopefully that'll be done by next week.

 

Hey all,

Been a busy 2 weeks. Haven't had much time to work on the car, so I've been doing what I can here and there. Today was really the only day I got to work on it all day.

Also, I realized that some of the attachments from a few weeks ago are disappearing. I apologize for that and will directly upload the photos here this time.

From last week, I got the OMP blockoff plate in. It was a pretty easy thing to do, but I wanted to get this done because of the OMP linkage which bothered me.


I also got the fuel tank in last week, as well as fixed the fuel pump connection. It wasn't a hard thing to do, but took about 2 hours since I didn't really know where to go.



Other than that, I figured out that the broken line on the throttle body is. It was a coolant line, and I can fix that later or reroute it directly to the water pump.

This week, I got my injectors serviced. The person on the counter said that the servicing was a huge improvement, and that my car might not have started because of the lack of service to the injectors.



These are the numbers for the injectors, pre and post service. If someone can explain them to me, I am curious on what the flow rate actually means, what a good flow rate is.


I then got the manifold back on and the car ready for starting. No problems here, but had to cap a vacuum line because of the OMP delete.



I was pretty much at the point where I could start the car. I checked spark beforehand just to make sure that I was 1000% ready.

I tried to crank the engine, however, there was no response. I cranked it 2 or 3 more times, but no response. I went to the engine bay to see if I had missed anything, and then noticed the smell of bad fuel. The fuel pump was working, the injectors were working, but the fuel lines hadn't been purged. The only reason why I could smell them was because all the gaskets on the car are bad, and didn't make a perfect seal.

I knew the car had a fuel return line, so I let the fuel go back to the gas tank so that I could try again another time.

After cranking the engine for a long time.....

She started!!!!!



The smoke is from one of the belts, which is loose.



Now that she runs, my next steps are to get her roadworthy.

Thanks to all the people who helped me start the car!

 

I got back home from uni and I started working on the 7 again. However, it seems like the entire cooling system is rusted out. Not sure how safe it is to drive, but the engine started up last time. I'm thinking that the motor will be alright, but I would like a few experienced opinions about my car. Since my budget is nought, I have 4 options:

-Rebuild the engine myself (assuming the housings and the rotors are okay) using atkins rotary parts. I have access to an engine stand.
-Buy a rebuilt engine from atkins for 3k and trade my core in
-Run it until she dies
-Swap an EJ205 into it (probably going to cost more than a simple rebuild but I already have the motor)

Any and all suggestions appreciated.

 

Since you were able to get it to start and run, I would flush out the coolant system a few times, replace hoses and possibly a new water pump, and send it. A rebuild is only going to set you back time and money and prevent you from driving the car sooner and enjoying it. The engine might still have a ton of life left in it before it truly needs to be rebuilt due to wear.

BTW those injectors were running at about 70% of their normal flow rate, so yes, you would have had a ton of issues with it running as they were before you serviced them. Good call there.

 

I would take the water pump housing off and sand blast it. That is what I do when I encounter a water pump housing like this.