79SA to 87EFI. Not nearly as simple as it looked.
The good part is that I am finally getting to put my theoretical knowledge of suspension design to use. It was MUCH easier when I was just reading about it. 
11-12-13, 11:16 AM
#129
Thanks. Fighting with getting the upper arms positioned correctly. I had to order some suspension specific tools to set caster/camber/toe. Dang tools are EXPENSIVE, but I'll need them for track settings, whenever I get to one. So it should work out. 
A bionic wolf in wolf's clothing! Make it run. fly. keep her on the pavement... Can't wait to hear a time. Grrrrrrrr
11-17-13, 12:35 PM
#131
12-16-13, 09:37 AM
#134
An update for those still watching my self inflicted trainwreck. I'm still at it.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/11395094083/http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/11395094083/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/, on Flickr
OK, go ahead and laugh. The passenger side is roughed in and back on the ground. Had to modify the original struts to take a heim joint at the bottom and weld on a perch to accept the coil over spring. Did some clearancing on the lower arm and added tabs to mount the shock as far out on the arm as possible. Then the real fun began trying to get the upper plate at the right height and angles so that nothing binds as the wheel moves, keep it within the bounds of ride height adjustment, and make sure the shock doesn't stick through the hood (the last was harder than it sounds). Also modified the coil over tube and went to a 275 pound 12" tall spring. I need to get some more measurements and do some adjusting now that it's on the ground. Then close and clean it up. Not looking forward to doing the other side, but it should go a bit faster now that I have some idea of what the he** I'm doing.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/11395094083/http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/11395094083/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/, on Flickr
OK, go ahead and laugh. The passenger side is roughed in and back on the ground. Had to modify the original struts to take a heim joint at the bottom and weld on a perch to accept the coil over spring. Did some clearancing on the lower arm and added tabs to mount the shock as far out on the arm as possible. Then the real fun began trying to get the upper plate at the right height and angles so that nothing binds as the wheel moves, keep it within the bounds of ride height adjustment, and make sure the shock doesn't stick through the hood (the last was harder than it sounds). Also modified the coil over tube and went to a 275 pound 12" tall spring. I need to get some more measurements and do some adjusting now that it's on the ground. Then close and clean it up. Not looking forward to doing the other side, but it should go a bit faster now that I have some idea of what the he** I'm doing.
12-16-13, 11:07 AM
#135
I'm still watching, and I'm not laughing It looks kinda crazy right now, but once you get it all finish welded and go over some of the rougher welds with a flap wheel it'll look good I'm enjoying watching something different being done with one of these cars .
It'd be interesting to see how what you've come up would compare to say a Miata subframe swap.
On a random note, get that stupid cold start assist tank out of there lol
It looks kinda crazy right now, but once you get it all finish welded and go over some of the rougher welds with a flap wheel it'll look good I'm enjoying watching something different being done with one of these cars .It'd be interesting to see how what you've come up would compare to say a Miata subframe swap.
On a random note, get that stupid cold start assist tank out of there lol
12-16-13, 01:06 PM
#136
I'm still watching, and I'm not laughing It looks kinda crazy right now, but once you get it all finish welded and go over some of the rougher welds with a flap wheel it'll look good I'm enjoying watching something different being done with one of these cars .
It'd be interesting to see how what you've come up would compare to say a Miata subframe swap.
On a random note, get that stupid cold start assist tank out of there lol
It looks kinda crazy right now, but once you get it all finish welded and go over some of the rougher welds with a flap wheel it'll look good I'm enjoying watching something different being done with one of these cars .It'd be interesting to see how what you've come up would compare to say a Miata subframe swap.
On a random note, get that stupid cold start assist tank out of there lol
Miata subframe would be easier, but then I have the same problem as the FC subframe. The wide tires would not be properly positioned under the stock sheetmetal and the tires will hit on the frame rails at close to full lock. The wider wheel base would be good for handling, but it would look weird when the rear has an even narrower track than the stock front suspension did. It would require wheels with an impossible offset to keep them tucked in.
I keep putting that stupid tank out of the way and it keeps falling back in. Attempting not to have any more stuff apart than I have to. Not working out so well for me though, as I have had to pretty much disassemble everything up front anyway.
12-16-13, 03:05 PM
#138
Kept the bottle as I may figure out some sort of a cool use for it yet.
12-17-13, 09:26 AM
#140
Lincoln SP 170T, 220 welder. The feed sucks, as it likes to vary it, typically at the worst possible moment. Makes pretty welds a lot more difficult and gives my naughty word vocabulary a workout.
Kept the bottle as I may figure out some sort of a cool use for it yet.
Kept the bottle as I may figure out some sort of a cool use for it yet.
Reason I ask is that mine took a fair amount of adjusting to get correct - the pressure on the wheel was either too much or too little, and if you have the spool on too tight it will jam, too loose and it tries to unravel lol. Once you get it right though it's oh so sweet...
I have more or less the same welder I think. Mine is a Pro-MIG 175 from early 2004. ~$600 at lowes if I remember right.
12-17-13, 09:39 AM
#141
Mostly a combination of the wheel not feeding and the wire dragging in the feed guide. Not the best design I've ever seen, but I can't afford a new welder so I put up with it and keep fiddling with the tension every time I have to change out spools.
12-17-13, 11:43 AM
#142
Agreed, it's not a perfect setup, lots of room for slop. I'm still on the original gun assembly/liner on mine and it's starting to show. Its getting more and more difficult to get the wire started after changing a spool. It doesn't help that i buy the small 2lb spools so I change them fairly often...
12-18-13, 01:02 PM
#143
Ready or not...
Join Date: Dec 2009
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Your shock tower... I looked, looked away. Overnight my mind told me that this setup should offer stability improvement comparable to increasing your wheel base by about 4" (invisibly). hmmmmm.
12-20-13, 09:42 AM
#146
I don't have much choice but to keep going at this point. This type of modification is not for the faint of heart. Buying the tools to do the suspension set up has cost as much or more than the parts to do it.The good part is that I'm getting an education in suspension that you can't get sitting in a classroom.
01-15-14, 09:07 PM
#150
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/11973963114/http://www.flickr.com/photos/gysgtfrank/11973963114/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/gysgtfrank/, on Flickr
Been a bit on updates. I have been working on it steadily. I got everything trial fitted only to find that my upper A arm mounts were an inch and a half too far back, oh well that's what trial fits are for. Pulled everything back apart and started clean up and final bracing. I put in frame hoops braced into the firewall. This will stiffen the frame and give me a solid foundation to hang the coil overs from. The driver's side was a little tricky as I had to incorporate a way to run the steering shaft through it (it's a leetle close). I also deleted the brake vacuum booster and incorporated the brake master cylinder mounting plate into the plate for the hoop. Far more compact mounting and should stiffen that up as well. I'll have to see how well the brakes work without it. Will finish doing my driver's side upper A arm mounts tomorrow. Then back to trial fitting and putting the K member back in. work, work, work.
Been a bit on updates. I have been working on it steadily. I got everything trial fitted only to find that my upper A arm mounts were an inch and a half too far back, oh well that's what trial fits are for. Pulled everything back apart and started clean up and final bracing. I put in frame hoops braced into the firewall. This will stiffen the frame and give me a solid foundation to hang the coil overs from. The driver's side was a little tricky as I had to incorporate a way to run the steering shaft through it (it's a leetle close). I also deleted the brake vacuum booster and incorporated the brake master cylinder mounting plate into the plate for the hoop. Far more compact mounting and should stiffen that up as well. I'll have to see how well the brakes work without it. Will finish doing my driver's side upper A arm mounts tomorrow. Then back to trial fitting and putting the K member back in. work, work, work.