1985 GSL AutoX and HPDE Build
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Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Kansas City
With respect to wiring, I have found that it is best to either leave the stock harness alone and disconnect the items you don't need OR start over from scratch. I have seen stock harnesses picked through for racecars and it can be allot of work for not much weight savings. Also, you have not indicated how much of the harness you need to retain - such as do you need to drive this car to and from events or is it a trailer queen.
The Mazda wiring is very good. My 83 was road raced for 14yrs with the stock harness with no issues. When I rebuilt the car for a different class that has more liberal rules, I started from scratch which turned out to be a pretty long process.
The Mazda wiring is very good. My 83 was road raced for 14yrs with the stock harness with no issues. When I rebuilt the car for a different class that has more liberal rules, I started from scratch which turned out to be a pretty long process.
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Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Kansas City
I tried to fire it up yesterday, but the starter wouldn't turn over. After swapping batteries and getting the same result, I pulled the starter off and tested it with jumper cables. Only the solenoid worked. So after I get the starter rebuilt, it should start. *fingers crossed
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 301
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From: asheville
I don't need much, just fuel, ignition, fan, lights (on/off) wipers (off/low/high) and starter. I would like to wire everything to a switch panel that I've made, but right now it's a last minute thrash to get the car running before drivers school and MAM. (yipe) As for carbs, I'll get webers eventually when money allows. The motorcraft is a good old carb that has served my uncle well in his pinto.
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...iring-1082294/
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Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Kansas City
Getting the wipers to work with just a toggle switch is surprisingly complicated but can be done…
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...iring-1082294/
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...iring-1082294/
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Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Kansas City
My head stuck through the sunroof on stock rails (I'm 6'2") so I welded some angle steel to the floor for brackets. That floor is thin though and hard to weld on. I'll post another pic when I get the chance.
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From: Kansas City
Sorry if this is a stupid question. The small bungs on the top of the rotor housing inject oil inside the housing, yes? Do these need to be hooked up for safe running of the motor? The guy who had the car before me removed them and I just now noticed. Is it possible to plug the holes and just use premix instead?
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From: Kansas City
Cool, which mix do you run? Also, one was plugged, the other wasn't, that explains the horrible vacuum leak that I couldn't fix. Maybe it'll idle now.
I have always ran 80:1 premix on the advice that has been passed on to me by racers using engines from major engine builders. Which works out to 8oz per 5 gallons of gas. I have used everything from Amsoil to cheap dead-dino 2 cycle oil and have never noticed a difference though Charlie Clark (KC Raceware) swears by Amsoil.
As far as fuel, we have always tried to use 87-88 octane gas that contains no alcohol. I Typically fuel up my van and race jugs with the same stuff. This is on stock port and street ported engines I have raced/built.
One of the best parts of racing a rotary...cheap *** racing fuel.
As far as fuel, we have always tried to use 87-88 octane gas that contains no alcohol. I Typically fuel up my van and race jugs with the same stuff. This is on stock port and street ported engines I have raced/built.
One of the best parts of racing a rotary...cheap *** racing fuel.
Last edited by mustanghammer; Aug 22, 2016 at 10:32 PM.
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