Have you checked that it has vacuum?
Sounds like the flutters is because the BOV isn't dumping, which BOV is it?

Attachment 634584
It is a kiwi made BOV which needs to be loosened up . It's definitely not dumping and creating the flutter. I'm trying to figure out the whistle more importantly.

Best bet is to do a boost leak test and see if you can find the leak, first prize will be to see if there is a boost leak that is creating the whistle sound.

Hey check this out! Only other car I've actually hear make that noise.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocZ0veZjiBs#t=188
That car runs good, I wonder if its actually a problem, maybe just an annoyance?

The struggle is real polishing up the manifold!

Cut off all the tabs etc I don't need .

Attachment 634378
Attachment 634379

The struggle is real hahahaha, you ain't lie'n!

This could be why my headlights don't work ...

http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/...psackimh2z.jpg

There's no plug for this at all. But what's the blue wire?

Looks like battery power. Out of the main fuse box many of the 10awg blue wires power a relay. The black/white wire is switched ignition.

So the big black plug isn't the signal and power to the lights?
I have no
Lights.. Won't pop up or even turn on when the lights are down .

Just got to the office and checked my harness. That blue/black wire shouldn't have the wire covered with raychem on it someone tapped into that fuse. No idea what they are using it for. It should be a 40A fuse for B2. Black/White is the retractor, White/Green is EGI and Red is Head. I would check to see what the fuse they put in B2 because it appears to be the wrong colour, at least compared to mine. B2 and B1 (located in the bigger fuse and EGI/Main relay box) seem like a likely culprit since they impact a few different functions. Attachment 634104

I am a bit of the blind leading the blind here since I have not had this problem before.
Here is the diagram from the manual as it pertains specifically to the retracting lights.
Attachment 634105
You may want to get yourself the full wiring diagram pdf though.

I suspect that connector plugs into the bottom of the fuse box you are holding the lid for ^^^
if I've trade me stalked you correctly and you're after 3 wire (H4) headlight connectors, they're available from most auto electricians - try Taylor Auto Electrical in New Lynn.

After thought: This car hasn't had non pop up lights in it at some stage? Could explain why it has been disconnected and a fusible link fitted to power up the bulbs?

Cheers.

You stalk my trademe listings huh! Haha anything you like there Bruv?

I dont even have that fuse box at all. Like its completely not there at all.
I've got a engine loom on its way. I suspect all
I will need when I get the fuse box is to connect power to it. My battery is in the boot so I can't just put it straight on the terminal !

I am sort of doing a wire tuck right now too. My engine is in the rear of the car too. I ran 2awg from through the cabin and up to the fuse box that the plug and fuse box belongs too. Sort of making a positive bus then everything in the engine bay gets powered from there.

You can run a cable from the starter positive up to that fuse box (when you get it) to power it up... Don't you just love acquiring cars that have been "professionally deloomed" ? Lol.

Cheers.

who makes it
 

Who makes that bov ? got link.
Thanks

http://www.performancecar.co.nz/comp...blow-off-valve

I think they only made run off them by the looks... Nice Piece tho.. Does it job

Nice build, some nice parts there!
did you sort the low power/slow turbo response? id expect closer to 450 hp at the hubs (stp) on 17psi, not the 385 hp your dyno sheet shows. there is def a problem there somewhere and when you find it the turbo will spool a lot faster too. the whistling sounds like it coming from the bov its not leaking under boost is it?. if a boost leak isnt the issue then maybe a restricted exhaust?

Thanks dude, No the issue still hasn't been sorted, I haven't really driven it since I got it back from the tuner a month or two ago along with a $6300 bill... The Bov doesn't dump and that annoying whistle also, so I don't drive it. So exhaust is straight thru to the muffler also. I've driven it around the block to get some gas and there is no exciting power ...really Disappointed

Maybe purchase a new BOV and see if it fixers your problem or try borrow one and test if it is BOV that's the problem, did you manage to get a boost leak test done?

If the BOV isnt the problem then maybe try another tuner?

So I got a second hand HKS elbow without a BOV and the whistle is still there.

Will be putting on a whole new manifold and blocking off the IAC toady. hope for the best.

I'm at my wits end.

After eliminating the blow off valve , I replaced the upper intake manifold and throttle body with a totally different unit... With a block off plate over the IAC .

To my surprise the whistle was still there and the BOV still wouldn't dump.

On top of that when I switched the TPS SENSOR back to the old manifold my engine won't idle properly.

Do I start looking lower at possible injector boot leaks for the whistle?
I turned all of them in there holes and no change in the whistle . The whistle starts at about 2.2
To 3krpm....

Over it..

Take it to someone to get a boost leak test done on it, could be from anywhere, easiest and cheapest way to find the leak, you can even make a DIY boost leak tester, if it isn't a boost leak then you need to take it to a tuner to check it out.

The Tuner knowingly gave it to me like this along with a $6000+ ... I think more like $6300 bill. so yeah hopefully he comes right.

Some pics from last night .

Attachment 631400
Attachment 631401

I get so jealous when I see people that get to enjoy their RX7's all year! Screw winter!

Good evening out today to get the groceries ..

Attachment 630382
Attachment 630383

Patiently waiting for my Mazdaspeed drysump kit from 1FAASTFD3S to turn up ! Excited !

Picked up this awesome Radium AST.

Thinking about placement .

Attachment 630160
Attachment 630161

I Head out to the Nz Rotary Summer Nationals, a drag racing event for rotaries only held at Framautolite drag way Meremere. This was the first time id taken the car to an event !

Attachment 629902
Attachment 629903

A quick wash before driving out to it to the strip, found a decent park next to a Gunmetal Rx3 with very similar paint job!

Attachment 629904
Attachment 629905
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Attachment 629907
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Attachment 629909

Was a good day, watched an Rx3 turbo and Rx2 20b PP do really low 11's all day then finally the both ran identical times 10.90 , crowd was pleased.

Attachment 629910
Attachment 629911

Your car looks good. So does thast ast! Any 1/4mile times?
I'm assuming it's all sorted out now. Did you try another tuner?

Thanks dude ! the car got a lot of attention.

I didn't race unfortunately, the car is still not 100 %. blow off valve doesn't dump and the whistle is still there. Also the clutch master cylinders somewhere have gone & the clutch pedal likes to stick to the firewall.

Been waiting for two weeks for my shop to order a new turbo smart bov, but are always busy. So yeah I just Putt around in it slowly looking good.

Awesome. Have you tried ppre? Have heard thru Haltech there the best rotary tuner in your part of the world.

i'm in for the HKS intercooler! when you get all the other bits sorted its going to be a really nice car

BTW, years and years ago my friend had an RE-Amemyia clutch and it made a whistle too. his car went WOOOO wOOOOOO. i think its because the thing is symmetrically sided.

They built the original car and the 20bpp, I considered it all the way to the point of getting quotes for tow trucks. But its about 7hours from me and I would have liked to visit it to keep an eye on progress so I took it to someone in my city ... I may take it to them for the final tune.

Thanks Dude,

wow the clutch made that sound? that's really good to know because multiple shops are at their wits end trying to find it ! thanks for the heads up. although even if it was .... how could you fix that?

Did a quick google ! And wow these clutches make this noise because of all the holes ?

Attachment 629416


Attachment 629417

Attachment 629418

The videos are identical to my noise , personally I hate the noise ...

https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo...evving-842017/

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...estions-24604/

After spending a lot money rebuilding this clutch with carbon Kevlar plates im not sure what I can do now tho haha

I think you should be able to confirm if that's causing the sound by temporarily taping over all the holes.
Personally, I think it has to do with some passage in the irons being blocked off. I know you're using the aftermarket LIM. But there are passages for the egr gas and for the air injection into the exhaust port. I was using a shop air blower to clean my irons 2 weeks ago, and heard the exact type of noise. Changing the angle and air speed made the pitch of the sound change also. I thought of your thread as soon as I heard it but forgot to post here.
That sound would drive me crazy

it definitely isn't a normal noise you'd hear in a car...

Would it be possible to cut off the outside edge with the holes in it and re weld a toothed section without?

Possible for sure. But financially feasible? Probably not. If you tape over the holes and confirm it is causing the sound, then maybe you could find some high temp tape or vinyl that would not melt from the heat. Have it cut to the exact shape by a sign shop and stick it on.

http://m.acehardware.com//product/in...ductId=1273881

Maybe some aluminum tape like this^ ?
And make a jig or die to cut all the circles out the same?

My Project took quite a big hit recently, to the tune of $4300 !

1FAASTFD3S ripped me off a Mazdaspeed dry sump kit.

Read About it here.

https://www.rx7club.com/bad-fugly-me.../#post11882045

Bro that is super stink. I hope you get to bottom of this.was the payment made through PayPal? Or direct into his account from your nz bank?Maybe they can look into it.youd think dealing with another forum member everything would be legit.

Yeah Dude, feeling the burn pretty hard.

It was paid thru bank transfer after he refused to use Paypal. (That is my mistake there, I should of used PayPal)
Calling the Bank customer service desk I was told to go into a branch.
When I went into the branch I was told there was absolutely nothing that could be done as it wasn't a business and the conditions of the bank wire were non refundable.
It also came with a lesson from the Bank teller why I shouldn't do it again lol

New Turbosmart race Bov ,

Looks nice , sounds good too ...

Attachment 628742

Attachment 628743

Replaced some silicone and rubber lines today with some beefy hoses.

Attachment 628496
Attachment 628497

And replaced the plastic T sections with brass pieces, dunno what kind of workshop would install these :scratch:

Attachment 628498

Re-located the Boost solenoid.

Re-located its wiring off the turbo oil feed to down behind the water pump, looks much cleaner.

Attachment 628499

Neatly hidden under the air filter.

Attachment 628500

Cool.always good working through the little things.will get a pic of the air lines I use but I have been moving away from silicone vacuum Lines to nylon tubing and push to lock fittings.not quite as flexible as silicone but do look great and super fast and fuctional for removal.

hows things progressing with getting the money back?we're you going to be building a race engine, for the need of a drysump setup?

Hey man, did you drive down Bucklands Beach road yesterday afternoon at maybe 5pm or something?

Nylon and pushlocks would be nice!

The dry sump situation is progressing, there is no real racing need for the Dry sump haha, ideally this engine would chop and change into my drift car if I ever got around to making the engine bays identical and compatible.

Hi , no this car has never been out east. Did you see something awesome?

Sort of lol. I just heard/saw a dark grey batty, similar colour to yours going past that sounded sweet. Had a really cool sounding BOV.

Sorry man wasn't me ! Maybe see Ya around !